thanks so much for the video, i got the same problem with my 05 tahoe, i did all of what you did, finnally a decided to replace this accelator sensor, but i got the pedal with the sensor, new, is cheap, i'm goig to do it tomorrow, again THANKS SO MUCH, HAVE A NICE WEEKEND!!
You are welcome. If nothing else, while engine is running good with no reduced engine power, wiggle the throttle body wire harness. If it triggers the rough idle, the harness is the issue. I ended up having to solder the wires because a wire connector came loose after i changed it in the begining.
Just bought a nice ass Tahoe for junk price with new tps, app and a bunch of other new parts on it. The folks couldn’t get it to come out of reduced power mode. There were some chewed up wires. Fixed those wires but no luck. Still in limp mode. My scan tool read 19v on the tps. Spec is like 1-14. It was the black wire going to the back of the engine. I couldn’t get on the bolt so I cut it and spliced into a good ground spot. Zero issues now. Good luck y’all.
P0220 and P2135 indicate a problem with the TPS voltage. Check TPS voltage at closed throttle. (should be .45 volts) Check again at wide open throttle. (should be 5 volts.) If you don't get proper voltage, replace TPS. If the voltage is ok, it could be your MAP sensor. The PCM wants to see manifold pressure increase and decrease in conjunction with throttle position. In some cases, the PCM itself is faulty. This is the least common cause. Good luck!
Problem went away for a long time but is back. Also have a worsening evap problem. Changed purge, vent and charcoal canister. Smoked and pressure tested. All good. Wondering if there can be a connection between the two problems.
@@chikkicarolina15 Intake pressure is about 21 - 22 in./hg. An intake leak would result in a lean air/fuel mixture and that's a whole other can of worms. It would result in some O2 sensor codes but wouldn't affect throttle position.
Ok, tank pressure switch will resolve evap issue after today’s diagnosis. Found a mouse nest and chewed wires in under hood fuse box. Taped wires, cleaned out nest, cleared codes. We’ll see what happens. My OTC hand scanner showed a fluctuating map reading while Erving engine so I do not believe it is the issue. Thank you very much for your help.
@@870arkansas7 yes...04 tahoe...the strands of copper wire separated within the colored wire...maybe one or 2 strands of wire touching. Allowing it to operate ..than it would actually up again ...crazy how that would happen...replaced alternator plug/pigtail Been sever days now..no problems
Now I. Just going to replace throttle body sensor plug/harness... On my 04 tahoe. I had the problem for over a yr...I never replaced any sensors I just did the regrouping of all ground wires..I was ready to replace the throttle body. When I started checking every single wire/ connection/ plugs etc.. Was a real hassle..but it seems fixed now
My 09 wouldn't idle down i changed all that i ended up finding someone with a high dollar code reader and i went in to the gas and air flow and reset it it manually i didn't reset nothing but that and it worked for me guys code scanner i used said he been working on cars his whole life and he never seen 1 do what mine did and way i. Reset it worked right then he said he ant never heard r seen that b4 but it worked
with my 03 suburban i had the same problem and i did replace peddle and throttle body but the code still came up putting the rig in limp mode...frustrating then i checked a ground that goes to the back top passenger side head and rewired and ran it straight to the battery neg and that seems to keep me out of limp mode 3 months now. oh yea i tried a different throttle module and ended up using original. best of luck
My throttle body wire harness was the problem on mine. It was the first thing i replaced but one of the wire connectors i used was loose. I changed everything else for nothing. Once i soldered the wires, never had the problem again.
I have the exact same problem, but the crazy thing is my pedal freaking out now too. Like sometimes it'll send a signal that im giving it gas when my foot is on the ground or i have terrible throttle response. I know it has to be a sensor problem because i keep getting those tps sensor codes but everything checks out when i check my voltages and its driving me crazy. (Its an intermittent problem) sometimes my truck will even stall out in the middle of driving
I never stalled out but the reduced engine power would happen. It ultimately was the throttle body wire. You may have a clogged fuel filter or fuel pump problem.
There's like like 20-30 very common points of failure for this system as soon as they get a little age on them they start popping up one after another. A few of my friend's started at 5 years or around 50-60k miles.
I had the same problem last night and I checked all the wires and noticed where they run that it gets really hot close to the wires and if the plastic wires sleeves are falling apart then the wires are heating up which will cause you to get a high voltage reading and noticed wires not protected so I wrapped the wire harness leading to the TPS and zipped tied them away from anything hot . After I hooked up the code reader and only one code popped up so I cleared it and was able to drive without a problem. 07 Chevy avalanche.
I did everything on my truck, pedal and box on the firewall and the wires to and from it, did new connector to the throttle body and new throttle body, still got it, I have no idea other than to burn the truck down
How far back did you replace the throttle harness? Start the truck and let idol when the reduced power isnt happening. Opn hood and wiggle throttle body harness and wires. See if that triggers the condition. If not there is a ground wire from engine to firewall. Also a bunch of grounds on one bolt under drivers door. Clean grounds. My new throttle harness wires were connected with wire connectors from the mechanic shop. I continued to have the problem when i made video. Ended up one of the connectors was loose causing the problem. I soldered the wires myself and do not have the problem anymore.
Got 2004 tahoe with same problem change all sensors and nothing mine drops below 500 rpm at stops when accelerate got no problems only at stops thinking changing fuel pump with filter n regulator all inside tank.
I would change fuel filter under drivers door before fuel pump. If that doesnt work, buy a fuel pressure test kit from harbor freight. Pressure test fuel rail on driverside of intake manifold. Easier than dropping fuel tank and being wrong about pump.
It does but read the description. It was not the throttle pedal it was the throttle body wire that i had replaced. One of the wires pulled out of the butt connectors i used and started causing the problem again. I soldered them and never had the problem since. I changed all those ather parts for nothing. Still runs great no issues.
A one thing I noticed about your ground wire there that you ran to the block that goes to aluminum section on the front that holds alternator and all that stuff on. I thought you were unable to ground 2 aluminum.
It says ground right on the alternator bracket. Ultimately my issue I believe was the clip to the throttle body. All that grounding was unnecessary but I was lost at that point and tried everything. If you are having this problem I would first start engine and wiggle harness to throttle body. If it stumbles and starts running rough and creates the reduced engine power. That is your issue. Even with the new clip and 12” of wire it still happened. I used long zip ties to secure the clip tight to throttle body. Since has been good.
I have a 2004 silverado and had the same problem with reduced engine power. The problem was the wiring in the fuse box under the hood. There was a short.
Idk if this is the issue or if this helps but when I bought my avalanche, the fuel door was held on with a bungie cord and hitting the right bump or turning hard right would trip these two codes. I glued magnets to the inside and fuel door stays shut good. Every once in a while the code will come back and if I shut the truck off, go outside and open and close the fuel door the truck gets out of reduced engine mode and runs fine.. Will be going into this further this weekend.
When the code happens, turning off the ignition and opening and closing the drivers door will turn off the power inside the truck which resets ecu not the gas cap. . If you shut ignition off and don’t open door the lights, radio and windows will still work. Opening door actually shuts power down. When you hit a bump, it’s the throttle body wires that move and cause the problem. Lift the hood, start the truck, wiggle the wires to throttle body and see what happens then get back to me.
Ultimately it was the throttle body wire harness. It was the first thing i replaced but one of the wire connectors i used was loose. I took all the connectors off and soldered them and that took care of it. I replaced everything else for nothing. The way you test it is: while truck is running and not in "reduced engine power", open the hood and wiggle the throttle body wire harness and wires. If it causes the "reduced engine power", you will have to replace the wire harness. Make sure you solder the wires. You can get the harness at any autopart store or ebay.
The wire harness to throttle body has to be serviced every so often. I do not get reduced power much after changing the harness then soldering the wires rather than wire connectors. It did happen a few weeks ago so i shut off engine, wiggled the harness wires, restarted engine and it went away. My suggestion is when the engine is running without the reduced engine condition, wiggle the wire harness wires to trottle body and see if it kicks into reduced engine mode. You will know because the engine will stumble alittle.
Yes, ultimately it was the wire harness to the throttle body. I changed the harness but one of my wire splices was loose so the problem continued into making this video. What you should do is start the truck and if it is running fine without the "reduced engine power light" on, wiggle the throttle body wire harness and clip. If it goes into reduced engine power, that is your problem.
When u have the truck on and disconnected the throttle body it will be a engine light with lots of codes u need to erase them all but still mine drops the rpm with no codes alreadi change all sensors except fuel pump.
no. i had to solder the throttle body harness wires. replacing harness was the first thing i did but used butt connectors. one came loose. then i made video and solved it later. has been good since i soldered new throttle body harness wires. wiggle wire while running and see if it triggers reduced power.
Iv got a 03 Escalade and have the same codes. 🤦♂️ iv tried alot of things. When I put a new accelerator pedal position sensor on it didn't work at all. Put the original on an worked but still randomly goes in reduced engine power
While the truck is running without reduced engine power, wiggle the throttle body wires near harness and see if it creates the problem. May have to take off engine cover.
I had replaced the wire harness going to the throttle body 1st. It seemed to be good but the problem came back. That is when i made the video. After the video i had no problems for months. But it came back. I wiggled the new throttle body harness wires and engine stumbled and went into reduced power. I checked the wire connectors where i spliced in the new harness and sure enough one of the wires pulled loose. This time i soldered the connections and have never had the issue again.
Try checking the wiring harness there is 3 located by ECM unplug blowout make sure no visual damage and plug back in also disconnect battery for 30 seconds and it will reset I'm sure that's the problem man
Happened again yesterday. First time since video. I shut the truck off for a few seconds and then it was fine. I am thinking it has to be wiring or Ecu itself. I did not mention in video I pulled connector of ecu and tcm and inspected for corrosion or moisture and replaced them because they looked good. It has been good for a month or so since video. Baffled again. I am wondering if the dealer can widen the parameters for the communications between throttle body and petal switch.
I have a 2003 Yukon XL and got same 2 codes. I renewed all the grounds, even behind the intake manifold. I replaced TPS and wiring and it fixed it for 1 year. Then started coming back and replaced Pedal position sensor. Went away for a couple months then got code again today. Baffled.
Did it once about a month ago. Haven’t had a problem since then. Has to be either a wiring issue to ecu, tps or pedal. Bad ecu or Dealer has to widened the parameters between pedal and tps in the ecu that synchronize the two.
@@chikkicarolina15 I wish they could just widen the parameters with the CPU. I have a friend who is the service manager at a small Chevy dealer. He cannot find any reprogram available for our generation truck concerning the drive by wire system.
Frustrated with all the work I had done was determined to figure out what was still causing my problem. I started wiggling wires as truck was running and when I touch the throttle body harness connector the engine stuttered. I realized I had not pushed the clip on all the way. Also when it was pushed in til it clicked I noticed I could push it in more. I used long zip ties to hold it all the way on and have had no problems in two months.
@@chikkicarolina15 any suggestions for if mine ('03 escalade) goes straight into reduced power immediately when I start it? and is the pcm mounted on the firewall right in front of the driver? i feel like my problem is the harness on the right of that module...does that sound logical?
P0103 Dirty Air Filter Dirty Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Intake air leaks Faulty Mass Air Flow SensorMass Air Flow Sensor harness is open or shorted Mass Air Flow Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
