I watched and then followed your video instructions and was able to replace the blower control module on my husband’s truck. He has shoulder trouble so the job was on me. Thank you so much for your wonderful instructions. I am sure we saved some money by being able to replace it ourselves. By the way, I am a 68 year old grandmother so that lets you know just how good your video was. Thank you so much.
Thank you very much, this was exactly the issue I was having with my Yukon XL Denali, and I did exactly what you said and was able to fix it myself. I took it to the experts to look at it first, and they said the part I cut out was the wrong part, and that it would cost me $400+ to replace it. I decided to keep going with your video, paid $60 for the part you mentioned, and fixed it myself! Thank you very much!
I have a question for you do you think a 2003 Hummer would be pretty much the same fix for my blower motor out of the blue today I started my car went to the store got out of the store and my blower motor is not shutting off got home and my blower motor is not shutting off I used the 40 amp fuse and unplugged it and it turned the blower motor off but I don't want to have to keep taking my 40 amp fuse in and out I live in Colorado and it's cold LOL thank you if you have time to answer this
@@ThecardoctorTVI replaced my blower motor and this module and when I start my car my fan still runs constantly on high even if I shut my H2 Hummer off it keeps running do you think I got a bad module or do I need to replace the control in the dash
Went to replace the mod, ended up finding a mouse nest under the cover! He had started chewing on the wires. Replaced it anyway with your help. Thanks man.
Perfect video! Helped us figure out our problem with our 2003 Yukon. Blower motor stayed on last night outta the blue when I came home and this morning the battery was dead. Your video was the first to pop up when I searched it on RU-vid. Was the perfect fix. Thank you! 👍👍
What's up Tim. I replaced my module today, first time. Quick tip to offer you on that pesky cover bolt. If you just loosen that inside bolt the cover will come down and swing out of the way with plenty of room to access and replace the module. You don't have to completely remove the cover. Took me 20 minutes total to complete the job.
In FL these burn up all the time, I never had it stay on but i had them not work or it looses some speeds. I have the white module now, They made a black plastic updated module, that one only lasted 2 years before it melted the connector. I believe that the high heat, constant AC use and moisture from the evaporator shorts it out. Its just too extreme here , its not designed for this climate. The 40amp weird cartridge fuse under the hoods fuse box will stop the blower from running if it happens at a bad time. , Remove it to stop it. I have that same Crimper I wore it out. now it has blue grips :) ya snap on. Its easier to disconnect the power connector on the blower motor when you remove it. Tab and a turn. I think all I did for removal was the two screws on the lower dash cover and i had enough free play on a GMC truck with the console to sneak it out. Alot of trade in vehicles I drove had INOP blowers. Trade it in when the blower stops, no AC new car, lol $$ So far, 115k, 10 years, I am on 3 blower modules which includes the factory part. Oh, One time I replaced the blower motor too. Korean Delphi motor!
Good tips. Blowers get a workout here in Alaska too. Maybe not all the moisture you get. I'm going to try getting it out without removing the last screw next time. It's crazy the way people give up on their vehicle when something silly breaks. They should do some math first. Crazy.
The Car Doctor Even if a car needs a engine, its cheaper to fix it than to replace it! Even if the car is worth under 5k and the engine is whatever, add up what you can buy for what the vehicle is worth + repair and what condition may it be in. Cant fix stupid. Ya in Alaska at-least you have cool air flowing in from the outside. I try to run recirc as much as i can. Nothing broke when I was living in the NYC area! Just suspension parts
The Car Doctor Its nice around that time. Crowded, but it always is in Miami. I used to go over there to pickup cars, out in homestead its cool, alot of nothing.
Thank you for the diagnosis and fix. I just found a really nice loaded ‘04 Tahoe that had been in storage for a few years and it only has 100k miles. It had this issue upon putting in a new battery and I was able to know what to do thanks to you. I was also able to negotiate the price down another $600 because of the existing problem. $178 in parts and it was fixed in 20 minutes. Also, you absolutely don’t have to remove the screw closest to the center console. Easy. Thanks again.
Thank you bud. This was exactly what I was needing. I also appreciate the tip at the end, always helpful to have a reminder to not only throw money at the truck, but also look over things while you're in there. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. When my fan all of sudden turned on and wouldn't shut off in my 2005 Yukon SLE I figured it was the resistor / module. I replaced one in my Ford Escape a few years ago and new what I was in for. Your video made it easy and I had the entire project finshed in 35 minutes for under $65 with next day shipping from Amazon. Thanks for helping teach people how to do things for themselves!
I have a 2005 Escalade. My blower did not work at all. I replaced the resistor and it worked perfect for a couple of days. Now the blower stays on high always and it continues to run after shutting the car off.
My 2005 has all kinds of electrical gremlins. The heat will suddenly turn on when running the a/c and the only way to shut it off is to turn off ignition and restart the truck. the heated seats will turn on and ill turn off only for them to turn on again, over and over. i havent found the solution to that one. luckily its fairly rare. Now the auto HVAC system is tripping, turning on at 74° though its hot air blowing and now the blower motor wont turn off just like shown in this video. Way to go GM. I had similiar electrical/dash/HVAC issues in my '87 chevy, '91 chevy ,'99 chevy and 2002 chevy. consistency is a sign of quality! uuuugghh.......
My 05 Chevy just did this... Took fuse out to keep blower off... This looks fairly straght forward.. Thanks for the tips... Even if I take it somewhere I know it's not that serious and shouldn't cost a fortune...
Thanks! You saved the day. Easy repair. Left that 3rd bolt in place, and just moved the cover to the side...used the same color connectors you did for the wires...and I've got heat! Keep the videos coming, and thanks again.
When it comes to removing the housing cover, remove the two far right retaining screws, and leave the third in place. The cover unit is flexible, allowing it to be moved out of the way. This presented no issues for myself in changing the module, nor damaged my cover. Just a consideration.
I have a 2001 Suburban LS. Same issue - fan runs max speed with key out. Removed the HVAC fuse. Stopped problem (fan on with key out) and I have the 4 lower speeds - just not 5th speed. I believe mine is a different part than the '03-'09 that you talked about here. Would this still point to the blower resistor module? Thank you!
I did the permanent fix for it my blower motor turning off and on intermmitently on my 2003 Silverado. I bought an "add a circuit." I bought the 30 amp one. I pulled the 30 amp fuse out in the cab for the heater/AC hvac system and plugged in the add a circuit that has 2, 30 amp fuses in it with a pig tail coming out of it. I connected 8 ft of 14 gauge electrical wire to it with a butt connector. I ran the other end to the blower motor on the passenger side of the cab. I cut the pig tail off of the blower motor(the blower motor just has 2 wires coming out of it. A red and a black wire. I connected it to the red wire. The black wire on the blower motor I connected an eyelet to it and connected it to one of the glove box hinge screws which was a good ground. I cut the 8 ft piece of wire right above the transfer case shifter and installed a toggle switch from walmart. Now I can turn my blower motor off and on with that toggle switch. I only have high fan speed, but I don't care.
Thank you for this great video. 2004 Envoy replaced resistor with your help. Had to remove the glove box because my old frame doesn't bend that well. Tip: if you do remove the glove box, reinstall it before installing the bottom cover. Left cover screw was a bear as you said so loosely screwed in the right screw first then shoved the cover up in place as hard as I could and lo and behold, the left screw went right in. Again, thanks for a great video.
Had my blower motor fail to start on an 04 avalanche. The cause was water leakage from the plastic panel under the cowl leaking into the passenger footwear. Water froze the blower motor and blew the fuse. Fixed water leak and replaced blower motor (previously squeaky) and blown fuse. On fuse install, blower ran full tilt. Looks like this is the last step in fixing all of it. Thanks!
i had to replace my blower motor. i just left the 3rd screw in and let the cover lay on the floor. in the way a little bit but better than messing with 3rd screw. just saying..but if have to use 1/4 " small ROUND rachet..
I put a brand new one in and it shorted out. This doesn't really help. A full and complete diagnosis covering all possibilities would be more educational. I'm tired of these quick fixes, quick instructions, nothing is really learned.
I’ve replaced 2 of these in my Escalade. This now would be my third. They last me about a month. Do you recommend replacing the motor as well now then?
I have a 2001 yukon and the heat goes on for about 10 mins and then starts blowing cool air would this be the same fix. I have a 2002 gmc yukon danali and the blower stays on when I take the key out so I'm gonna change the module on that truck. But just wondering about the 2001 yukon and the heat. Thanks
How much is the auto control dual temp climate module kit? Mine looks like the one you pulled out. Autozone said I have to buy the 100 dollar one but mine looks like the 20 dollar one. Just how much was the new one you installed. I don’t have a hundred bucks right jow
I remember when my brother bought a 90 F150 with the old thick film ignition module mounted on the distributor I got him the special wrench and a module to keep in his glovebox. It wasn't long before he needed it! Always good to be prepared. Take it easy.
If it’s on service recall for updating then your local GM dealership should be responsible for replacing it. On the inner screw you could replace it with a stud and nut.
Last week I went to the corner store with my a/c on. Turned my truck off and went in. When I started my vehicle to head home, everything was normal when I started smelling electrical burning. Pulled over but couldn't find where it was coming from. Since the vehicle was running normal and I was 2 minutes from home, I went ahead and drove it home. When I arrived and shut off my vehicle, I noticed the blower motor wasn't shutting off. I tried a few different things but ultimately decided not to mess with it that night. When unplugging the blower, I noticed the wires were very hot. I haven't messed with it all week because of work. Noticing you know more than the average bear, I figured I'd ask before I started taking it apart if you had any idea what I'm getting into. Or do you know something that'll point me in the right direction. Sorry this was long.... Thank you...
The blower motor is likely bad drawing excessive amperage and overheating the wiring. I would replace the blower with OE along with the wiring and module. Good luck
The Car Doctor Actually the one thing i forgot to mention in my message was that the blower was making a whining sound for the first minute or so when I'd turn the vehicle on. I think you're right on the money. I'll go that route. Thanks for the advice. I'll let you know how it turns out.
I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu if the key is off and ac switch is off the blower motor turns on by itself...I have to remove the relay if not it drains the battery?
Hey car doctor, so i the fan in my truck didnt sound great. so i replaced the fan and i managed to find the old style resistor/module. I put it back together and it still is sometimes not turning on and sometime not shutting off.. Its the exact same old style, but a brand new part. Do you think that would still be the problem and i should do the update? Thanks
You just show how to replace the module but the video didnt show the diagnostic procedure. How did you come to the conclusion it was the module, just replace it? I like videos that electrically show how it went bad...
Can you please tell me where do the AC filter go on a 2004 Chevy Tahoe or send me a video if you already had done one under the passenger - cuz I'm having trouble
Hiii my good friend; TIM!!!!! GREATINGS FROM Puerto Rico..The most common error or fault that the "DIY" do; is that when changing the "control module" or the "blower"! They never do an "amp test" at the blower and control module harness. VERY important step! WHY? Because if someone puts a new a/c blower and have an a/c module that its "woking" but its consuming to much amp, your going to fry the harness and the blower to! AND VICEVERSA..
+pedro l rivera negron You sure are a firm believer in amp drop testing. I get the feeling that if they ever needed to get those paddles out and jump start your heart you might ask them if they did a voltage drop test before they shocked you back to life...just kidding. We sure could avoid a lot of unnecessary wrong parts replacement if we took your advise. In this case it was a common case of fried module and the updated part got him back on the road. If I had seen any melted wires I would have replaced the blower motor as well when I was in there. Always appreciate your input sir! Take care.
My truck has a constant got to the fan high. Like there's a short or a relay stuck. My module has a relay built into it as soon as I plug it in it engaged the relay. I only had high. I cut the wire now I have all but high. Is there another relay pressing to the module itself
This repair can be done without removing that one hard screw - just loosen it and the black cover will swivel out of the way while laying on the floor of the vehicle
Does the control module have to be the updated version? I ordered the exact same one that is in it now which is the old one you show in this video. Replaced blower also and it still stays on when vehicle is shut off
You made that look really easy there Tim which just means you're a skilled craftsman. Looks like that old module caught you off guard at the end of the video LOL. Have a good one and best wishes to you and your family.
+stuzman52 Hey thanks, I have been called worse than a skilled craftsman for sure. Some days I feel more like a old tired mechanic who is loosing his mind and patience. I really did spend at least 15-20 minutes putting that last screw in. Its always such a pain and you have to lay sideways and act like a acrobat just to get that sucker in there. I think I invented a few new words along the way!
So I replaced my module about 2 years ago and my ac runs for about 5 min then shuts off then turns back on then shuts off and now it is stuck on like in this video
Thank you. I'm going to give this a try on my 03 suburban. Woke up to a dead battery and when I charged it the front blower would not shut off so i had to pull the fuse. Video is straight to the point
Hi Tim, I had to to this on my Suburban, it was good to see that I did it like a Professional would. I have had problems with butt connectors so I soldered and shrink wraped mine, but other than that it was the same, I left that screw out, in fact I threw the screw as far as i could, no rattles yet, after about 20,000 miles, so I am pretty sure it will be that way forever. Thanks, see ya next time.
+joel mccoin Sounds like you went above and beyond on yours with the solder and shrink tubing. I am checking on how much it would cost to put a screw into orbit aboard a space launch for the next one I do just for good measure.
I got so mad at that one screw that I just broke that piece off. Good to go. You cant see it and it dont rattle. Im not gonna spend 2 hours " thats me" doin it
Thank you. GM declined to respond to our request to be interviewed for this story however we gave the customer a free key tag, a floor protector and a plastic seat cover. Just another way we go above and beyond here at Car Doctor Studios!
That screw, cut the head off then get a nut of same thread to clean out to its end. Screw in the threaded portion into the hole it belongs, then just slide the case over this threaded shank and put your nut on tight. Your welcome
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. This happened to my sisters car but thanks to you we were able to fix it. Summers are brutal in south Florida. You saved us a lot of misery. God bless you.
Hey someone has probably said this but i just did mine watching your video. Anyways on the tricky screw I did not take it out all the way and I was able to slide the panel out of the way, was not too bad to put back in. Hope this helps
Problem with that screw is once you leave the screw out , it would make a noise . and come back . Now on my own truck , throw the screw away , and smile , because now truck is lighter, and, just think, lighter truck , better fuel millage . I betting one would save a pint of fuel in a hundred thousand miles , well ok a half a pint , but still .
I like the way you think but let's be realistic here. In that 100K miles I saved 1/2 pint of fuel but the problem is I spent the savings on a donut. Well the donut caused me to gain 5 lbs. Then over the next 1 million miles that extra pound cost me an extra 200 gallons of fuel overall. It's mind boggling. Oh man I can't even think about it. Im getting that donut look now. You know. Glazed and confused.
I have a 2000 Suburban that is doing the same thing in the rear HVAC. I changed out the moduel or relay but still have the same problem with the rear blower.
Thank you so much, After watching your video it narrowed down the problem with my Hummer H2. It was exactly what you said it was and I bought the Part online for $26. Of course this is after pulling my entire dashboard apart to get to the Climate control unit.lol.
Great video! Exactly what I needed. No BS just a straight up fix. As someone else commented that third difficult screw just needs to be a little loose and the cover drops down out of the way enough to make this repair. The most difficult part was making sure I got the right part. Looks like a lot of “bootleg” parts out there. I stuck with GM. Thanks again!
i guess im asking the wrong place but does someone know a trick to get back into an instagram account? I was dumb forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Aldo Princeton i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thanks for the helpful video which included the OEM part number. My husband appreciated your video and was able to handle the repair himself on his 2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD.
Just watched you video... going to order the part and attempt this myself. I'm not very skilled at this kind of work... but I don't have the money right now to pay someone to do it. I'll let you know if I'm successful.
