Cholorine Tablets How Many Does Your Pool Need? 

Thank you.

OMGosh. Thank you so MUCH!

That's awesome to hear. I'm so glad my channel has been helpful. I've got a new program coming out in the next month (just in time for swim season!) I think you'll love it. Make sure you subscribe to my channel and turn on notifications so you don't miss the announcement.

Stay with it ... you can do it!!! Also you may want to join poolschooler.com for more help and money saving tools to maintain your pool.

So glad it helped. Hope you'll subscribe to my channel and share it with others.

@Christian Bridger If you feel the need to hack your GF accounts you should probably find a new GF and find one you trust! My pool is clean though

Thank you for commenting and subscribing. Glad my videos are helpful. Hope you'll share my channel with others.

Glad to help. Hope you'll subscribe and share my channel.

you're welcome. I try to make things as easy as possible. Hope you'll subscribe.

@@PoolSchooler already done, I'm watching most of them right now. great

Emeil Nasralla thank you I appreciate that.

Thanks for commenting, today was 117° in Arizona same predicted for tomorrow.

@@PoolSchooler Holy shit, just bring some bacon and eggs and slap it on the pool deck for breakfast. Hydrate and spf 50 bro.

@@boriskarloff598 Right!! My first summer here in 88 it was 121! Yup. Hot, but boy does it make me drink water.

Thanks for your comments and for subscribing.

I’m interested to know why you have to have an extra bag of shock every week. In Arizona I would usually recommend just add an extra tablet but the good news is you obviously have figured out what your pool needs and you’re doing a great job.

You're welcome. Hope you'll subscribe and check out my exclusive member DIY pool maintenance website www.poolschooler.com

I've heard a bit about them. My biggest concern about those is the addition of heavy metals to pool water which, I believe is unhealthy for us humans. And since our skin is the largest organ in our bodies we are literally bathing in all the chemicals we use in our pool which includes the heavy metals added by these type of ionizers. I found this article you may want to read about www.spectralightuv.com/pool-ionizers And then also check out some natural health websites about the dangers of heavy metals. lastly check out my video product review of the pool tiger. (Here's a link): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NKebX0TjDMU.html It may be a game changer for pool chemistry.

Yes, it has exactly 25% more chlorine per gallon, buy it's waaaay more than 25% above the cost of the 10% version, so I don't see a reason at all to use it. Lugging an extra gallon for every 4 is only a problem for someone so rich they can afford a saltwater generator instead.

Unless it specifically says it does somewhere on the label I'd assume it doesn't.

I don't they're quite a bit more expensive and at least in my area much harder to get as well. Your CYA levels should not go up so much in one year that you have to change your water. It could be you;'re over dosing your pool with CYA when you do a fresh water start up and you don't have room for the cya to increase at all. Next time you do a start up bring the CYA level to ONLY 30ppm

It is safe to use tabs in a floater in a liner pool yes, however It is recommended to install an inline chlorinator at the equipment site. If you must use a floater, make sure that it doesn't congregate in one particular place like over steps etc. The highly concentrated chlorine will bleach the liner if if sets on or near the liner for an extended period.

You may want to watch this video on that subject to help you determine how many to use: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3BiVsHHNaS8.html

Try tying the floater off on one of the support poles away from the skimmer.

If your pool is a plaster pool you may want to try the Sunken Treasure Sinking Tablet Holder. Here's a video I did on it. BUT IT'S NOT FOR VINYL, PAINTED OR FIBERGLASS POOL SURFACES: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-efClKZTAujc.html

If you use liquid chlorine you have to make sure to maintain proper levels of stabilizer or chlorine will just evaporate.

My opinion would be yes. Use a tablet floater if you're going the chlorine route.

I’m not really sure what your question is. The only way to know if you have enough chlorine in the floater is to test your chlorine levels in your pool. Please watch my video on testing your pool chemicals. And there’s another one on Corine tablets, how many does your pool need. And that might be helpful as well. Understand, pool chemistry is not rocket science. If it was I certainly wouldn’t be able to do it. Is there a specific topics on pool care you like to learn about his email me at kennypoolschool@gmail.com and I will send you links to videos I have done on that subject.

Remington actually recommends you continue to use floating chlorine tablets with your Copper ionizer

8 hrs on powder shock..if just adding tabs it's ok to swim right away

Typically a pool turns green because of phosphates. Watch this video it'll help: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MzGoK4Cd7tc.html. If you keep you chlorine (free) between 3.0 and 5.0 ppm you're golden. If you still have issues with going "green" it's probably phosphates. Other issues can be a not clean filter or not running for filter long enough.

@@PoolSchooler Thanks. It is probably the only video I didn't watch regarding the chemicals. I will check it out.

@@MicheleLumadue It's probably one of the most important ones I've done. Cause a green pool is one of the most mis understood but easiest ones to take care of or prevent.

Thanks

It’s really up to you, I know lots of people choose to take it out, especially if there are younger children swimming since sometimes their curiosity gets the better of them, and they open the floater up which exposes them to the contents, which could be unhealthy and possibly dangerous. Others choose to leave it in the pool. The biggest thing is if you choose to take it out make absolutely certain you put it back in once everyone’s done swimming.

I have a few clients who have them (they're called DekChlors) and they work well. BUT they only 'erode' the chlorine when the pump motor is running. I did a video on them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oGtDv0TCmuU.html

Honestly if your chlorine levels are in the ideal range you should be fine. But if you want to set your mind at ease you can always add a bag of shock to the pool.

You could, but usually that's if your pools chlorine demand is really high. For regular demands you shouldn't have to use both. If you're pool is burning through a lot of chlorine (and it's not an excessively huge pool) you may have a Cyanuric Acid Issue. Either too high or too low. Either of which can cause your pool to burn through chlorine more quickly than usual.

I’m sure there are but I have no experience with them. Personally if your skimmer is functioning properly it should get the majority of the surface debris. But no pool is 100% efficient and can deal with everything nature throws at it. Thus, Skimmer nets/leaf rakes.

My 20x20 pool didn’t come with a skimmer I looked on Amazon and found a skimmer for my above ground pool it connects to your outlet it comes with fittings and it gets all the surface debris, I brush my pool and after I stir it up it I see more bottom debris floating to the surface and gets into the skimmer,Best thing I invested in.

Peak season is when it's warm enough for everyone to swim and off season is not. Typically off season is fall through winter. The video you're commenting on gives you guidelines to answer your question.

Glad that works.

Pool School thank you!

Ya we go 3 tablets a week and half a bag of shock for 6500 gallon pool. Arizona sun just eats it up

If you're willing to test and add liquid daily then it'd be the ideal way, however for convenience (and for pool service people like myself who only service a pool once a week) the tablets work best (at least for me)

Not really. Most mainstream ones are pretty good.

Often actually. There is supposed to be a plastic "mesh" screen at the bottom of them to prevent this from happening. Here's a link to what it looks like www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352025039.htm Make sure you have one of those in the bottom of the chlorinator. Another reason it can clog is buildup in either the lines or adjustment valve. I'm not a huge fan of these type of chlorinators. I prefer simple and the floating chlorine tablet holders are by far the simplest. BTW - The Chlorox tablets are a good product in my opinion and experience.

Also on the Rainbow (now Pentair) 320 and 300 chlorinator there is a check valve underneath the bottom of the chlorinator. It is not uncommon for these to get stuck shut. On the 320 which sets directly on return line pipe, there is a 1/4" set screw which when removed allows the chlorinator to be unscrewed from the T beneath. At that point you can remove the check valve and give it a shake. If you don't hear any rattle, it is stuck shut. I always keep one or two on the truck. Hope that helps!

Mayorb that’s good to know. Thanks for sharing this info.

@@PoolSchooler it ended up being the chlorinator check valve was clogged. Simple fix!

Doesn't tabs add other chems rhat can mess with chems such as cyaneric acid

So typically in Arizona during the summer months, which are very hot and very dry and get a lot of pool use my clients pools will use anywhere between 3 to 5 chlorine tablets per week, but I never have to add granular shock. And then during the off-season months, it can be as low as one tablet a month. However, and make note of this, each pool is going to vary, depending on how old the water is how many people are in the pool, what the climate is and/dirt around it. So to be honest, it really depends on each individual pool, but that’s kind of what I average in Arizona.

Hey Jesse, thanks for your comment. And thanks for watching. My answer absolutely yes, anytime, you can get the water moving in your pool to help circulate chemicals that is a positive. So yes.

@@PoolSchooler Once again THANKS SO MUCH KENNY !!

@@jessemarinjr6374 You're welcome and once again thanks for watching and commenting.

Jason is it an in ground pool? If so you’re talking about a major job with all kinds of excavation cause most of the pipes are underground and it probably won’t look very good just extending the pipes that are above ground. If it’s an above ground pool it’s a bit easier bit the further away from the pool you move the equipment the more pipe you’re gonna have to run. In which case I’d suggest hiring a licensed insured and bonded pool repair person to do the work. It’s a very big job. And if it’s not done right you can do a lot of costly damage to the pool.

Pool School Inground pool l been told 20-40 ft from pool would be ok by the way love you videos

Jason yup that wouldn’t be too bad. And thank you for your comments.

I would choose liquid chlorine as well but for convenience the tablets are most pool people in my area's choice since we're only at our clients pools once a week. With the speed which water evaporates I Arizona liquid chlorine isn't as convenient. HOWEVER if one is willing to test their chemistry every 1 or 2 the liquid chlorine would be my preference. So it's a trade off, tablets and slight increases over time in CYA for more convenience. I appreciate your comment.

@@PoolSchooler You make an excellent point, and I should have clarified; I am only dealing with my own pool, and I test the water every single day. This brings up an issue though - Pool service throughout the US is typically once a week - but in my decades of pool maintenance this is wholly insufficient. Pool maintenance needs to be every day. Perhaps a new contract type needs to be drafted, in which the client is responsible for daily maintenance, and the professional is contracted for weekly oversight, as well as training of the client for the daily maintennace tasks. Enhanced automation could play an important role here as well, as water testing and chemical introduction could be fully automated. Open to ideas on this, but pool maintenance is not like lawn maintenance. It requires attention every single day!

Most all of the chlorine tablets on the market have CYA in them that’s why they’re called stabilized chlorinating tablets. There are chlorine tablets that do not contain stabilizer in them but they are much more costly and I don’t know anyone out here who uses them. It’s been my experience that using the stabilized chlorine tablets only raises the CYA levels minimally and because in Arizona the water evaporates rather quickly you’re always adding fresh water to your pool so with the dilution and the small amount of CYA in the tablets the increase in CYA is fairly negligible. I think one of the biggest reasons that CYA levels go up so quickly is people overdose their pools with CYA on initial start up which starts their water with very little wiggle room on the CYA level. What I tell people is when I do a start up to bring the CYA levels up to the bottom side of the ideal level so that way it takes quite a long time for the chlorine tablets to increase the CYA levels enough to where you have to change the water again. Typically that would take around five years. If you want to avoid CYA completely I would suggest liquid chlorine but note that if you use liquid chlorine you will have to test your water and add the liquid chlorine on a daily basis since it can evaporate far more rapidly.

Depends on use and climate to name a few variables. In summer I'd start with a couple of tablets, testing every 4 days or so and adjust amount as needed.

one dog is about the equivalent to 15 humans in the pool. they are killing your chlroine no doubt, you need a salt system with those pool habits.

or u can alos add a gallon of 12.5% liquid chlorine every 2 or 3 days through out the week, the salt system would eliminate the constant requirment of adding the chlorine by giving a dose of chlroine every day once your pool pump is schedulked to run .

2 tabs in 100 degree weather for a 27k gal pool in swim season is not enough at all! Maybe you have a cyn problem and they are trying to lower it idk. One thing I do know is putting tabs in the skimmer basket is going to ruin your equipment faster. When the pump doesn't run it sits in the basket super chlorinating the water and it shoots through your equipment when you turn it on in the morning oxidizing all the medal through your setup over time. Get a floater or get/fix the inline chlorinator.

It really depends on what your current chlorine level is. But generally I’d suggest one quart at a time WITH PUMP RUNNING. Wait an hour test the water. Repeat as needed. Please also check out poolschooler.com for more great exclusive DIY pool maintenance tools and helps.

Watch this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QC5ZYG27Z48.html

Let it totally dissolve.

When I do start up on any of my clients pools either new or full water change. I make absolutely certain to only add enough cya to get it to the LOW end of ideal. Then it takes about 5 years before it gets to a level to Evan consider replacing the water using solely tablets. One thing to keep in mind in Arizona. We are so hot that water evaporates quite rapidly sometimes upwards of nearly an inch or more a day. So there is constantly fresh water being added to the pool daily. And since dilution is really the only way to lower CYA levels, I think that tends to slow the accumulation of it in Arizona. I think perhaps in lower temperature areas, that may not be the case. However, also in lower temperature areas you’re probably using fewer tablets, so that also is less CYA being introduced to the pool. But my experience is it takes about 5 to 7 years for the CYA levels to get to a place where they need to be considering changing out the water. And when we do we usually do a complete drain and refill because sometimes we will acid wash or do some type of service at that time.

​@@PoolSchooler Thanks for the reply! What levels do you personally think are too high for CYA, to where you have to take action to avoid using a ridiculous amount of chlorine? Sounds like you maybe tolerate a little higher than the what others think of as a standard range? Btw, evaporation make-up water is not dilution. CYA is not lowered at all by that, right?

@@Grrrnthumb In my experience CYA levels are how most pool people (me included) use to know when it "may" be time to change the pool water. Typically that's around 300ppm. BUT the main litmus test is how well the pool 'holds' chlorine. I can track that mainly because I keep weekly records of my client's pools and know how much chlorine the pool used at any particular time for at least the past 4 years. So if It seems to be burning through more chlorine and the CYA isn't too low (which can cause the water to not hold chlorine as well) then I look at the CYA. Most of the time out here the level is by then around 300ppm (rarely have I seen much difference in how much chlorine the pool is using when it's even 200ppm. So at that point we may need to change the water. SO, CYA of 300ppm AND how much chlorine it's going through compared to the same time the previous 3-4 years is how I go about it.

I’m not sure. If you’re talking about a in-line chlorinator, it’s probably that manufactures set up. So I really couldn’t comment since I don’t have experience with what you’re talking about or at least I don’t understand what you’re talking about.

@@PoolSchooler upright chlorinator canister's have a dial gauge, if you will, to regulate how much water flows into the chlorinator that dissolves chlorine tabs; higher the dial number means more water enters the canister, etc.

@@ChristIsRisen777 that’s what I thought you meant. It’s been my experience that with the upright in one chlorinators that I’m kind of adjusting as needed. But I appreciate the general numbers and guides you shared.

@@PoolSchooler l appreciate your videos 👍🏽

That is correct stabilized chlorine tablets have cyanuric acid in them. But it’s a pretty small amount. It is not uncommon when putting fresh water in a pool and starting up the chemicals that people add far too much CYA to begin with to get their levels up into the ideal range and they overdose it and then they’ve got way too much CYA in the pool to begin with so there’s no wiggle room. In Arizona for instants when we drain and refill the pool we had a minimal amount of CYA just to get the level at the low low end of ideal then throughout the season, and years the stabilized chlorine tablets gradually raise the cyanuric acid levels typically over about five years until you have to drain and refill the pool. If you don’t mind having to test and add chemicals to your pool more often the purest way to get sanitizer in your pool is to use liquid chlorine, however you would probably have to test and add liquid chlorine every two days or so. The other alternative is calcium hypochlorite tablets but then you’re adding calcium to your water which can lead to mineral deposits and hard water stains as calcium is the number one contributor to hard water. But, you might look into the granular version of the TriChlor. cause it doesn’t have cya In it. But it’s not as convenient so you will probably have to add it every three days or so.

Why not add liquid chlorine? It does not have any CYA :-)

@@QTube77 You can absolutely do that if you want BUT you have to be willing to test and add liquid chlorine DAILY instead of weekly. Also check out my new website poolschooler.com for lots of money saving exclusive content for the DIY pool owner.

@@QTube77 I agree. But you have to test and add liquid chlorine daily, so it's not as convenient.

@@PoolSchooler it seems my CYA levels are over 100 after only one year of using Tricolor tablets so I thought maybe I should just use Cal Hypo but then it is making the PH and calcium levels high so it seems that every year I might need to just half drain my pool in AZ with the tablets.

@@alejandrov932 i’m not sure I would call it wasteful, but it is not the most efficient to be sure. Because your CYA/stabilizer level is 300 ppm. Your pool is not going to hold chlorine as well. So it will still do its job it will just go through a lot quicker. But as I said before in my video on CYA, although the ideal levels are between 30 and 50 ppm I have had pools that have over 300 ppm and don’t burn through chlorine rapidly. You might want to watch my video on Cyanuric acid for more clarification.

Please see my reply to your comment on Pool Shock and Why I Don't Use it (much). If you need to rapidly get your chlorine up us liquid chlorine one gallon at a time WITH THE PUMP RUNNING TO DISTRIBUTE and mix faster test after an hour and repeat til you get your chlorine level to the ideal range.... WHILE YOU'RE DOING THIS PUT ALL THE DESIRED TABLETS INTO A FLOATER. I think once you get your CYA levels up to ideal (remember low end of ideal would be 30ppm) then you shouldn't have to shock or supplement liquid chlorine, the tablets should be sufficient. Check also your pH and alkalinity and make sure they are in the ideal ranges. Your pool chemistry works in a sort of synergistic manner where if somethings really off the others suffer as well. LASTLY, there are larger tablet floaters you can get that will hold 8-9 tablets if you need one of those here's a link to where you can get one: amzn.to/3wehfnd Hope this helps.

@@PoolSchooler thanks. I have watched several of your videos and am in the process of bri gingbup cya. It seems to not be having a huge effect yet on test strips. My PH is normally good but just needed to add some baking soda. I am getting there. Thanks for your advice.

@@midnightrider1100 when you add the CYA do it no more than 1 pound at a time and be very careful not to overdose the pool with that. Stop adding once you hit the low end of ideal like 30 ppm.

@@PoolSchooler I have been adding about a pound at a time lately. The first time I did not and I didn't use a sock. I just put it in the skimmer slowly and it didn't do anything. Now I am putting in about a pound at a time and letting it take hours to dissolve in the sock by the inlet. I am starting to question my new test strips too because I used my liquid test kit and it shows my chlorine levels are higher than the strip does. The liquid set does not test for CYA though so I may just see how long the chlorine levels stay up in my pool before I add more CYA.

@@midnightrider1100 And are you using the Aquacheck test strips? or another brand and how old are they?

The pucks dissolve slowly for sure. Usually they dissolve faster in hot weather and slower in cold. Make sure you have proper CYA, ph and alkalinity levels. If they are too low it can affect how rapidly the pucks dissolve. ALSO, make sure no one is taking the floater out of your pool and accidentally forgetting to put it back when they're done swimming. Lastly, if you need to get your chlorine level up quickly try using a gallon or two of liquid chlorine then once it's up try using a few more tablets each week. Example: In Arizona I use 1-2 tablets per week in the winter and in the summer 4-6. You may want to watch this video - Chlorine Tablets, How Many Does Your Pool Need: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3BiVsHHNaS8.html Hope this helps.

@@PoolSchooler I was reading on the forums about the downsides to using tablets because they introduce CYA into the water and it's better to just use liquid chlorine. What are your thoughts on just using liquid chlorine instead of tablets?

@@mooko85 I would agree about liquid chlorine being best, HOWEVER for convenience the tablets are used a lot in Arizona. The amount of CYA is a trade off in AZ mainly because we have such rapid evaporation of water in our pools (it's really hot out here) and there is fresh water being added to the pools here daily (estimated pools out here lose about 1/2"-1" of water a day so it's helping dilute the water (thusly CYA and TDS) so it's not as rapid an increase. It usually takes about 5 years for the CYA to get high enough to have to replace the water. If you do choose to use Liquid Chlorine (which again is best and most pure) then you're gonna have to be ok with testing your pool water at least every other day and adding liquid chlorine that often.

@@PoolSchooler these pools that require theis amount of chlorine are the most suitable for a salt system conversion.

break them up a little bit amd then place them in the floater to help speed up the dissolving process a little bit.

I'm a pool guy in Florida and I mix tabs and liquid chlorine. But granular shock and liquid chlorine I did once and it made a huge cloud.😮

I'm sorry I don't understand your question.

@@PoolSchooler when you are putting a tab in your pool on your daily routes and your cyanuric acid levels get to being in the upper normal range do you stop putting the tablets in or do you wait till it gets to a level when you would want to drain some water out ?

in hot weather i have some pools that just wont hold the chlorine levels with the liquid throughout the week so i was wondering

@@Chris031999 Actually because the only way to lower CYA in a pool is by dilution (adding fresh water to it) because we have such fast evaporation in AZ summers (usually pools lose 1/2-1 1/2" of water per day (or close to 2,000 gallons a month) that actually helps slow down the accumulation of the CYA. Typically if you start with a CYA level of 30ppm (the low end of ideal) it would take about 5 years for the level to get to a point where you'd have to drain and refill the pool (sometimes you can do a half drain and fill if you don't want to do a full drain). And I don't stop putting tablets in a pool mainly because with a weekly service I can't test and add chemicals every day or two cause I'm not there. I've got a video coming out on August 15 on chlorine types and how to choose the one that works for your needs. But I use tablets year round.

@@Chris031999 I don't know of any pool that will hold liquid chlorine for an entire week (at least not in AZ) typically if you're using liquid chlorine you should be testing and adding it on a daily basis or at the longest every other day, and as a pool service provider that would mean I'd have to go to a clients pool EVERY day which is neither cost effective for them and I'm not willing to spend 7 days a week working on peoples pools.

My experience is that if your starting CYA is in the low side of ideal (30ppm) with usual tablet use (in the hot AZ summers) it takes around 5 years before the CYA level reaches a place where you need to change the water.

@@PoolSchooler is this using an erosion feeder or with a floater....seems like you will use a lot more in a feeder...plus in a feeder most will use this as thier main source of chlorine...further speeding up the cya issue....jmo

@@richp5064 I have clients with both types. Erosion style, deck, chlors, and floaters and with erosion style or the DeckChlor‘s there’s no difference if you have them adjusted right. The idea of erosion style chlorinators is to adjust the flow of water to them so it’s slowly erodes Tablets, not rapidly. So regardless of the type of chlorinator that I’m using in the summertime and most of my pools, I average 3 to 5. Tablets per week and in the off-season at the coldest times of the year, maybe one tablet per month and again, if the CYA levels are starting at 30ppm, it takes about five years to get it to where you need to consider changing the water. Regardless of the type of chlorinator that you use

@@PoolSchooler At what level are you considering changing the water...? The higher the Cya the higher you have to keep your chlorine levels in you pool right...Anytime you want to know how much FC is needed to combat algae in your pool you need to multiply your current CYA level by . 075. So if your CYA is reading 200 ppm you would need 15 ppm FC to combat algae. Isnt the recommended chlorine level 2-4ppm...I guess my question is at what point is it unsafe to swim and or do damage to you pool or equipment having a chlorine level so high

@@richp5064 perhaps it would help if you watched this video I did on cyanuric acid and to be quite honest. I think you’re overthinking it. I’m not a chemist I’m just a simple Pool Service guy. And I speak from 22 years of experience with Pools in Arizona, and dealing with cyanuric acid levels. Here’s a link to that video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_z55SBsjadw.htmlfeature=shared

Honestly I'm not sure. I've never experienced that in a pool

the algacide NO MORE PROBLEMS is said to eliminate mold , it says right on the front of the bottle. but yeah never expierenced mold on a pool, and never knew of anyone using the no more problems algacide specifically for mold. worth it to check it out, as mold is no bueno anywhere

Join my membership program at www.poolschooler.com I have lists of all that stuff and weekly, monthly, and seasonal maintenance checklists. Plus links to products. Please check it out.

and access to me as your consultant. It's worth it. Please check it out. Its just what youre asking for.

You are correct. Chemicals have gone up a lot.

I'd start with filling your tablet floater 2/3 of the way full then test after a few days and do that for a few weeks until you have your pool's needs dialed in. In time you'll know pretty well what your pool needs.

@@PoolSchooler thank you very much. Next time I will get the 3 inch pucks. I didn't know when I bought these. Appreciate the insight.

Jason J yup, 3 inch sticks are best. It’s 1 3” stick per 5,000 gallons, generally. And that’s after establishing the normal 2-5ppm chlorine level. I’d start with one 3” stick, and test after a day or two. Then add another if need be. Remember though, sticks are intended to MAINTAIN residual chlorine. So, use bleach to start yourself off with. There’s good chemical calculators online. You know your pools gallons, the rest is just setting your chems to the right parameters in the calculator.

Or just get 3" tabs from now on and that'll fix your problem. Next your going to tell me all your tools are metric lol jk

I have a hayward cl200 clorinator hooked up to my filter system. I just keep it full, no need for a floater puck thingy.

Oh, you don't want to do that. If it sits on the bottom it could bleach out or damage your plaster or other surface. Use a floater.

OK, so there’s other factors to figuring out how many tablets to use. Temperature amount of people that use the pool daily. Etc. mess thing you can do probably start with three tablets in the floating tablet dispenser and see how that works and eventually you’ll be able to figure out, more or less what your pool needs at any given time of the year

Total dissolved solids are not an indicator of needed to drain your pool. You want to look at your CYA (cyanuric acid levels). This video will explain about CYA and why it's the indicator on when to change your pool water: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_z55SBsjadw.html this one will explain what TDS' are: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fHgnS-jOsDQ.html

@@PoolSchooler Thanks! I will check these out.

@@NOT-WOKE-007 Let me know if they help.

To be honest in my 21+ years of servicing pools in Arizona I've only used Stabilized tablets (unless they have a SWG) as sanitizer. And on the average it's taken usually 5 years for the CYA levels to get to a place where the water has to be changed.

@@PoolSchooler Yeah that is really interesting to know. Guess before you will reach that point you could switch to unstabilized chlorine as water can be expensive in some regions. I add CYA now and then, when it gets under 25ppm mostly only once per year 200 to 300 gram for a 70m3 pool. After that its about 30ppm giving around 98% UV protection per hour.

@@Peter-Alexander If I had my own pool I'd most certainly use liquid chlorine because aside from chlorine gas it's the purest and contains no CYA. And I could test and add daily If needed. But for my clients pools where I only service them once a week liquid chlorine is out of the question. And the non stabilized tablets are just way too expensive to be cost effective for my clients, so it's stabilized tablets.

​@@PoolSchooler Yep that makes good sense! I have indeed only my own pool to worry about so that's a different game. Best regards and all the best with your job and interesting videos! Appreciate your answers, I just subscribed.

@@Peter-Alexander thanks for subscribing.

Thank you I appreciate the comment.

I do apologize unfortunately I try to be thorough and not miss things as I have gotten countless emails asking questions that I could’ve easily answered in my video so I try to be a little more comprehensive but for some people it’s a lot to watch I understand and I am doing the best I can to make it thorough and concise. And some of my videos are better than other videos that I’ve done but I do try to keep that in mind

The HTH product will NOT kill phosphates. I did some reading on the Polyquat product and it doesn't appear to kill phosphates. If you want to remove phosphates I'd recommend Orenda's PR 10,000. It's what I use and it's fantastic. Please watch this video on Algae and Algaecides and Why You Don't Need Them. It'll help. Here's a link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MzGoK4Cd7tc.html

Unfortunately I don't have experience with either of those products. What does their label say it does?