Chrysler / Dodge : TIPM Repair - No Wipers 

**EX2-2U1S Automotive Relays** : amzn.to/2Srl56r **Head Mount Magnifier** : amzn.to/2St4f7c **Solder Sucker & Desoldering Wick** : amzn.to/2CFkBV5

That was quite a tough challenge with the reduced access and a double sided PCB with multi-pin component. On a plus note, the holes for the pins seemed quite generous. (It's harder with close fitting holes.) There's always the risk of accidentally lifting pads and breaking tracks to other sections of the PCB if you use too much force in removing components. As someone else mentioned, you have to be careful powering the relays on the PCB as it can cause issue with the diodes that are often in parallel to the coil to snub the switching spikes. There's also the risk that if you inadvertently touched a logic track it could nuke a chip too. The desoldering braid is good for single sided PCBs, especially when used with flux. The desoldering pump (which you were using correctly) is better for sucking solder out of plated through holes. A good way to clean those holes is to get one person at one side with the iron and another person at the other side with the pump. You can get a better machined pump with a replaceable silicone sleeve at the end that sucks better. (Or a soldering iron with pump built in.) I'd recommend a set of "hollow desoldering needles" from eBay. Just a couple of dollars for a set. They're hollow stainless steel pins with handles that you choose to fit around the pin of the component you're desoldering. When you melt the solder the pin/tube slides in around the pin isolating it from the rest of the solder, and then because it's stainless it can slide back out again after the solder has cooled. That leaves the pin free. Fresh solder applied to old joints cleans the oxidation off them and makes the solder more fluid. Choose a 60/40 tin/lead electronics grade solder with a flux core and get it from a respectable source. Not eBay. You did a good job. If you were routinely repairing those things you'd get it down to a fine art.

Pretty much all manufactured PCBs now use lead-free solder, which I find harder to desolder and remove. Counter-intuitively, if you add some good lead-based solder to the joint before trying to desolder it, the solder will flow much more easily and be faster to remove.

You did a fine job for someone that had never done that kind of circuit board repair. Your sister is lucky to have a brother like you!

With all the problems these TIPM's have cause Chrysler owners, it's nice to see someone tackle an actual repair on these $600.00 units. What an amazing video before the end of the year. 🤗

For the future, always add new solder to the point you are de-soldering, it makes removal much easier.

FYI...watching the thought process unfold is never boring! If you're learning, so are we! Nice job 🤜🤛

Basically if you dont know how relays work... youve probably checked out at this point. Good ole SMA comedy

No worries Eric your fans know that this is more of an experiment and learning process than an actual how-to repair. I personally appreciate you taking us along for the ride.

As an electronics nerd who knows very little about cars this was my favorite video! Another thing you could try is stainless steel desoldering needles. You can buy them cheap on eBay. They are hollow tubes in various sizes. Heat up the joint, shove the needle over the pin and into the hole, let the solder cool, remove the needle, and the pin will be completely separated from the PCB’s through hole. Since the needle is stainless steel the solder won’t stick to it.

Welcome back to the South Main electronics channel. You're basically an electrical engineer now.

The best way to remove solder from a PCB is to add more solder. Sounds counter intuitive, but the fresh solder mixed with the old solder will wick up better into your desoldering braid. Add some flux to your braid to make it real easy.

Man you really took it up a notch. Not too many mechanics like to thinker with that kind of stuff. Kudos for you.

Wish I could have helped. Changes thousands of old TTE chips years ago when I was a Tech. Pretty simple if you follow the steps. 1) First load up the pins with fresh solder gets everything flowing and the added mass helps dissipate heat from the board. 2) reheat and pull out the solder with the sucker. Pull the iron away just before you suck the pin. It keeps you from jamming the iron on the board and scoring it, also with the iron out of the way you can completely cover the hole with the sucker tip. 3) lastly the pins will have a bias in one direction and remain attached at the edge of the hole. Clean off your iron and just lightly push them to the center of the hole, you will hear them click as they release from the edge of the pad. Your iron must be solder free to do this. Typically the chip/relay will just fall out of the board. Nice job for you first try.

Rule #1 on FCA/DaimlerChrysler electrical diagnostics: it’s ALWAYS the TIPM. Rule #2 if diagnosis points to another component, replace the TIPM anyway because it will fail sooner or later. Rule #3 if all else fails, Replace the TIPM.

I realize this is old and already said and done, and was a gratifying learning experience. Wander around the net and Look for Dodge nitro Wiper recall J28. It involves adding external relays to the tipm. It took us probably about 20 minutes to complete, and we didnt have to dissasemble the box, just splice in a power source and used the existing control wires. With that said , AWESOME CHANNEL ... Keep up the good work. It is an absolute Joy after 35 years in the business to meet someone who has exactly the same approach to a situation as I would. Kudos...

Great Job Eric, you brought back memories of learning to desolder (I was 12 - 13 at the time), Practice makes perfect. Also, in case it wasn't mentioned before, the reason the park circuit wasn't working was because it uses the normally closed circuit in the relay...it wasn't changing. Once the relay was fixed, the park circuit saw what it needed. Anyway, you did great!

Congratulations on expanding your capabilities to include PCB repairs. I also genuinely appreciate your willingness to share learning experiences with your audience. Nicely done.

Great video! For multilayer boards with heavy traces like that, you are often best off taking the defective part out in pieces, carefully breaking bits off and heating/pulling the contact pin stubs out of the board individually. Then the solderwick can be used to remove the remaining solder from the plated through holes. This technique will minimize the stress on the PCB, especially when using non-optimal tools. There is a HUGE difference in the quality of different solderwick brands. You want a wick impregnated with a large amount of high quality flux. The cheap generic Chinesium stuff from eBay/Amazon is less than useless. Spend the extra money for brand name Chem-Wik or Soder-Wick from Chemtronics or other quality supplier. And use an iron with plenty of heat, which lets you get on and off the pads quickly.

it was obvious you were trying to save your sister some money, great effort on your part, you did a great job.

I do this same process on electronic boards that control swimming pool equipment. I had the same issues with the braided desoldering wick. The solder sucker does the job a lot better. I always worry that I've overheated the boards, but more often than not, the repairs work. The boards are pretty resilient to heat. Cool video, it was fun to watch.

You made someone very happy and a great video! 👊

Excellent video, Mr.O. Adapt, improvise, overcome. The design of the TIPM is no doubt driven by cost. There is no thought of repair, just replace. Not a bad idea if inexpensive. $600 is absurd.

Just finished this video after Ivan's 'Dakota from Hell'. Two things that I've learned: 1. Chrysler products are EVIL, and 2: You and Ivan are awesome - you are both excellent mechanics.

Your sister is one lucky lady! I am gobsmacked by the cojones it took to disassemble, diagnose, repair, and reassemble this electronic Rube Goldberg mess! You, sir, are a mechanic's mechanic! Happy New Year to you!

Ha ha, it's so cool to watch a pro dip a toe into a real DIY board repair! As always, your diagnostic process is elegantly simple, this is a brilliant video. I've been playing around with microsoldering SMD boards, it's a whole different world. Fortunately the cost of specialty tools has come down dramatically in the past decade, but unfortunately the new boards coming out today are really challenging. A typical resistor on a new SMD board is smaller than a grain of house dust. For those interested in how new electronic repairs happen, there are a few channels that go into detail, Louis Rossman and Ifixit both do computers and phones. It's a new age, we're all going to want to know how to do these repairs....

You did it Buddy..........saved lots of money for your sister, plus being a nice brother

I keep expecting you to implore your viewers to keep their junk in a clamping device at the end of your videos, but given that this channel is PG I know that you are expressing that feeling in your heart. 💕 I love that you continue to push the envelope of your craft further and further and never settle into a rut. I hope that someday soon I can afford some Patreon subscriptions, or perhaps as I change careers from writing software to maybe being a mechanic or doing automotive embedded work, pay forward everything I've learned from you and so many other RU-vid greats like AvE, Terriblefire, Dave Jones, Eric without the O, DiagnoseDan. Thank you so much for everything that you do.

Just saw this for the first time. You did an excellent job positioning the camera thru this episode to include us in your work/struggle. I was starting to talk to the video while you were struggling with the solder wick, "get to the solder sucker!!". It's worked much better for me than solder wick.

Hi Eric, you know I am an electronics engineer and designer it was fun watching you get that relay out. That is pretty much how you do it and the solder sucker is one of the best methods. However interesting your videos are, it has made me even more determined to finish my Vehicle off. My new vehicle based on a S11 British Land Rover but it is not a Land Rover. Has no engine electronics at all. The only semiconductors on the vehicle is the alternator regulator. Everything else is switches and relays. Not automotive relays. All the connectors are Amphenol military spec and the wire is Tefzel aircraft military spec. Because I am sick of fixing electrical bad connections. Your videos have confirmed to me I am going the right way. I don't even have electronic ignition. You can do this in Canada if it is based on an old vehicle. Like an Antique vehicle in the US. All it has to do is start and get me to work where I design and build machines using electronics. Modern car manufacturers have completely lost their way, I have worked for Cosworth and Ford. I could afford to buy a brand new truck cash but they don't make anything I want it is all, mostly junk. You just have to watch one of your diagnostic videos to see how crazy the whole industry has got. I think you are a really great mechanic and engineer. Just incredible feats of fault diagnosis. I just feel sorry you have to battle with such poor design concepts. My faults are usually design faults which are sometimes very difficult because, is it built wrong, or is it a design fault? At least you know if you find the fault it should work. There is simply far more complexity than the machine requires. The best engineers make simple design solutions. The more I see the less impressed I am. Just horrible design concepts. I teach all my young engineers. Remember somebody has to fix this thing and they probably have no idea what ohms law is. All you get on the phone is, it does not work or it clicks and nothing happens. And you have to guide them through some fault finding and you are 1000's of miles away. KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid. I just feel so sorry for garage engineers having to battle with this crap. It is so unnecessary and does very little to improve the performance of a vehicle. I love old Land Rovers but unfortunately they were constrained by finance and the electrics were just rubbish. They mixed Aluminum (Birmabright) and steel and then pass a current through it. Corrosion here we come!!! But the concept was brilliant based on the WW2 Willis Jeep which is also a great design. Just needs updating and made a bit more safe. It is great to learn how far vehicles have come and the methods used. You do a fantastic job explaining, and for somebody who is not an electronics engineer your grasp of the subject is very good. You may not like Land Rovers but you could fix mine in your sleep. No CAT, no O2 sensors, no cam sensors, no crank sensors. no injectors. My anti theft device is you take the rotor arm out. I don't think any car thief is going to have a Land Rover rotor arm in their pocket if they even know what that is. Oh and did I mention I am helping build an EMC closed loop fuel injected motorbike engine for a friend. Not my idea of the way to go but it is not so bad on a racing engine. I don't hate high technology just appropriate technology with repairability and recyclability built in. Yours Allister Denyer

On my personal vehicle, I would have just cut the wiper relay wiring and splice in some external relays, to basically bypass the TIPM. Just be careful and make sure to use weatherproof relays and connectors to avoid corrosion issues.

You are a good brother! Great job! I love watching your videos! 1:18. AM St. Louis time.

LOL.....This is what makes it fun and great about our job, always learning something new guys and smd micro-soldering will be the future as to computer programming, this guy took the challenge and made mistakes on the way but came out looking like a pro.... Nice job

"That thing's slicker than penguin snot!" 🤣🤣

Like the expression " out side of my Wheelhouse", most surprised to see "Big Clive" mentioned, great work and channel.

Awesome, I’m proud of you for accomplishing that repair. And you just enlightened me in to not attempting to repair my horn relay on my Ram. Maybe I’ll just install a Amazon bought horn. Thanks for the video,all 55 minutes worth.

Honestly you did a nice job, it takes many many hours to get really good at repairing circuit boards. I'm not an electronics expert either, I learned through trial and error lol

Surely someone has beat me to it. To use "Chemwick" lay it on top of the solder joint and put the solder iron on top of the chemwick until it absorbs the solder, you were not leaving it on long enough to melt the solder. It works way better than the snot sucker. A big relay like that can take a lot of heat so don't worry about messing it up. You should use a bigger tip on your iron for big stuff like relays. Great job and Happy New Year

I'm proud of you Eric o your doing an amazing job on getting that solder off the board

Really enjoy watching all of your videos, you inspire me to try things I've never even imagined trying.... thank you so much for sharing your gifts and talents.... your the man!..😁

That was an excellent diagnosis and fix. Many thanks, and happy new year.

Hi Eric. Nice to see that you are doing the same kind of repair I did a few months ago. Keep up the awesome work.

I probably smiled wayyy too hard when the wipers worked at the end. EO, you had all of the Jedi inspiration I could muster while watching this! Hahaaa

Hey Eric thanks for this video! I’m have the same issue with my 2014 Caravan. So because of this video I’m going to attempt to repair my TIPM. In Canada TIPM is over $1000. Plus programming. So I’m hoping to save myself a few Borden’s. ( Borden is the person on our $100 bill!)

Great vid SMA! I said the same thing when you were soldering. All that just for wipers. Very informative. Thank you

Don't beat yourself up. Even though you were out of your element, you did an awesome job. It's nice to see someone who cares enough about family members to save them money. Keep up the awesome videos and have a Happy New Year, {:-)

😀😀 A few years back I did iPhone and iPod repairs, lot's of soldering and circuit board repairs. The only suggestion I could make for any future circuit board repairs, Setup a dedicated workstation with plenty of light, lots of Flux and also find some old circuit boards and practice removing and installing components. That is how you get better at soldering. Much like brake jobs do more get better. The only thing missing from the video was Brake Cleaner, other then that, Good Job. 😀😀

For better results with desolder, you need a good clean soldering iron tip and a small damp spouge to wipe the tip on to keep it clean while your working. Put a small fresh drop of solder on the tip of the soldering iron because it will help conduct the heat from the tip to the solder on the board. Good job! Good video. Enjoy your videos.

I keep watching these vids as you are a supreme genius of the Universe when it comes to vehicle malfunction diagnosis, and humble to boot. You have that inquisitive mind, innate ability and honesty to the point of self deprecation. Only Mrs O know you aren't perfect.

You need to use flux when using desoldering braid. It will help the solder to wet into the braid and come out of the hole. Solder goes towards the heat source. You should also use a chisel tip on the soldering iron because the conical tip does not transfer heat as well as a chisel tip into the solder joint. You can also lower the melting point of the solder by making an alloy of the lead free and the leaded solder. Just melt some leaded solder into the joint before you start to use the solder sucker or braid.

Thanks because i watched your video was able to change my intake

This is vintage Professor O !! I'm not a gynaecologist but I'll take a look anyway !! And it worked. Sensational work Eric !! You are the MAN.

Whew ,watched sitting on the edge of my seat!LOL! That was a very challenging repair! Enjoy your informative videos

Something to watch out for when testing relays with probes like that, aside from 5v relays vs 12v relays... There is sometimes a diode across the pins of the coil of the relay, either built in or soldered on the board. The diode will sink current only in one direction so if you try to power the coil the wrong way around you may not get a click. So if you don't get a nice click one way, flip it and reverse it and check again. ;)

Well done, Ivan......I mean ,Eric.

Hey Eric just wanted to let you know that I appreciate you and the work you you do Don't worry so much on long or boring the video is I like detail so the more the better so I thank you and have a great new year to you and your family

Nicely Done Eric, Was very amused watching this one. I was yelling use the solder sucker when you were using the solder wick but you figured it out. I really did enjoy this Video. I'm a Retired Board Tech and would say you did an excellent job for a newbie. TY for sharing

This was intense, like watching a sci fi or espionage movie. It was as if our hero, Eric, was rewiring Chrysler's bomb to prevent it going off. As Eric himself says..."Boom!"

Entering into the unknown is a bit scary but as you alluded to, when your working in unfamiliar areas your learning. I enjoyed the video and now your sister has working wipers at a low cost. I hope you enjoyed the cookies. :)

Congrats on the component level repair sir! Huge savings for sis and a great experience for you. Thanks Dr. O!

One of your better videos...! This is how we have to work... Thanks for bringing it to our level....!

The contact melted because of corrosion build up or "burning" on the contact. The increased resistance acts like a heater until it gets hot enough to melt the contacts. The best contacts use corrosion resistant and high temperature metal alloys. The contacts once they build up resistance can also exchange metal from the common to the NC or NO contact surface ( or the other way around). It can make little stalactites and stalagmites on the contacts and these high and low spots can reduce the surface area that can pass the current and cause increased resistance and heating. When the contact changes state, (on to off -- or -- off to on) there is a big inductive load change (current spike) and this causes arcing and sparking on the contact surfaces.

We need to change the name from SMA to SMARTS.... South Main Auto and Really Tiny Soldering.

I'd call this one of your best videos. You boldy attempted a repair of a nightmare, multi-bus-layer PCB assembly and taught yourself the best solder-removal method along the way. How many mechanics would have had the patience and troubleshooting tenacity to even attempt such a feat? Bravo! A little heavier solder tip might have sped up the process, but in this case it probably thwarted damage from any iron over-dwelling. Solder wick containing flux seems to work best; and smallest width suitable. And rosin core (electrical solder) for resoldering. Always a pleasure to watch you enter alien woods and exit the other side unscathed. And WOW! - I had never seen such a multi-tier jungle of slip-in connections between PC boards. Imagine that exposed to road mist...vines of the green goo gone wild. Kudos to the enclosure designers.

Eric, a tip when desoldering. Apply some lead based solder (60-40) to each joint first. That way it'll mix with the old solder on the board making it easier to remove.

Great video and glad to hear the curse word left in lol.

Thanks for this, Eric. My horn just up and stopped working on my '10 Avenger. Both when pressed on the wheel and and when locking from the key fob. I can only imagine it's the relay. Tracked down which one is for horn, and ordered the correct part for $3. This video, like all of yours, is an absolute gift. Thank you again!

Well done, Eric. De-soldering and soldering takes practice, you've made the first step, can only get easier from here. I've done it for years so it is easy for me. Just remember your motto, If I Can Do It, You Can Do It. Great video as always. Have a happy and safe New Year.

These are awesome videos keep it up

I keep waiting to hear about angry pixies, or an exhortation of "Focus, you fack!"

I fixed the instrument cluster in my 2003 Silverado by leaving it plugged in while disassembled and pushing on parts ( resistors diodes ect ) until it came on , using a pencil eraser . Soldered the part and changed the LED lights inside and its been working ever since . 430,000 and still counting .

Another fine vid! Applaud your willingness to step outside your comfort zone and end up with a great repair and in the process save your sis some big bucks.You da man!!

As others have said, add some lead type solder to the joint first. It will alloy with the Lead Free solder on the board and make it flow easier and at a lower temperature. Next add some flux to the de-soldering braid. This will help the solder "wet" the braid and make it much easier to "suck up" onto the braid. These are going to be "plated through" holes in the board. Need a lot of heat reserve to heat the pin all the way through the board to make the solder flow up to the braid. Best solution is to buy yourself an inexpensive de-soldering station. These have enough heat and strong vacuum to pull the solder out. As a last resort you can carefully cut apart the bad relay down to its pins and remove them one at a time. Be careful not to damage the board when doing this.

Greetings from Oregon Mr. O. I know you're into tools... There's a desoldering gun made by Hakko model FR301 you should check out. I bought one a few years ago, and it makes removing components from circuit boards an error free snap. They don't give them away, but they are totally worth the cost.

Fascinating look inside that module. You scored major brother points with that fix!

And this is why I don't work on cars made after 1985. I'm an old school, self taught, shade tree mechanic. The only thing I never learned was how to repair automatic transmissions. Once I saw that you needed a reader to diagnose and fix cars I gave up. I can do regular maintenance on em, but once the money light comes on I wipe my hands of it. Hats of to SMA. He actually makes this work look doable for us DIY'ers. Plus it makes me glad I don't live in NY (one of many reasons) when I see the underside of the cars from there.

99% of your de-soldering problem is the tip on your iron. Get a 1/8" wide chisel tip. De-soldering will be much easier.

Nice old man glasses😉😎

Great Job working through that issue. Nice info to pass along to us DIYers. Salute!

Amazing repair. You saved your sister a lot of money. Well done.

Nice job Eric! They do that on purpose just to make $$ b/c there's no reason to make them integral to the PCB. Saved your sister a bunch of $$. Happy New Year!!

Use solder wick with flux, as the flux heats up and evaporates it pulls the liquid solder into the wick. Works great but won't pick up all the solder and free the part. Never had too much luck with solder suckers. They don't last too long... The best and easiest technique I found is to use a hot air rework station, I just bought one a few months ago and it works great. You can heat the part+board up slowly and the part will practically fall right off with a little help. Then use some wick on the holes and an iron to put the new part in. Bam. Easy peasy ;) Check out some videos on part removal with hot air, it just works... I'm sorry, I'm just happy I bought mine. Makes soldering enjoyable and easy. ;) To clean up the flux I just use a tooth brush with some ~90% Isopropyl Alcohol. I've found that some flux can burn or collect dirt+dust and become conductive later on so a quick scrub with a brush works.

Good fix...we all learned from your steep learning curve and there are pretty useful comments here from de soldering experts....thanks.

Bravo!.....I sold electronics for years and you patiently did what many decide they can't. Where there's a will, there's a way, if I can do it, you can too. I am so impressed.

No Brake Kleen, Big Nasty, or Ugga Duggas...........still a great video Mr. O.

That thick wick requires a fair bit of heat. A thinner wick would have worked better. The wick needs to be touching the solder connection and the iron is on the wick to draw the solder up into the wick. Remember the wick needs to be hot enough to melt the solder. You didn't leave the iron on the connection long enough. Yeah, the wick gets hot fast so hold it a bit farther up the spool. A narrower wick would work better because it would heat up faster too. The solder sucker worked well for you. Nice job.

Thank you Eric. Have a blessed and safe New Year.

All videos u say suck, are the ones that I find most valuable. Thanks SMA

I don't buy it. If it really is your sister the default repair is to wire up the wipers to work in conjunction with the horn and call it a day.

This video is approved by Ivan.

Happy New year Eric and family I really enjoy your videos.

Excellent video Mr O. Nothing short of AMAZING. Your approach and technique are "second to none". I've become addicted to your presentations. That being said.....Way to go Chrysler. Glad to see they're keepin 70's era electronic tech alive and well. TIPM my a$$. This so called "power module" is nothin but a bunch of miniature analog switches, circuits and GIGANTIC metal traces......lol. Thanks, Mr O. for getting me inside one of these "things". Been hearing about 'em for years, but never really knew what they were about. Obviously, they're about old, crusty low-level tech. Somebody needs to bring Chrysler into the 21st century. Apparently, they don't know or realize this entire "TIPM" could be placed on an integrated ciruit (chip), be smaller than a postage stamp (much, much smaller) and cost about $3.25! Like the anti-drug campaign of former first lady Nancy Reagen....."just say no".....to Chrysler.

First time I've seen a TIPM apart - what a cluster-@#$ of engineering THAT pile is! Unreal ... a multi-layered, $600 sh%# sandwich! 💩 (always wanted to have a reason to use the POO emoticon! Only Chrysler could make that happen! 🤣). No worries about workmanship on DIY repairs - that's the unwritten rule! Just GIT 'ER DONE, and if she works, BONUS! 🍻I did enjoy the sparks, though - I've made plenty over the years myself! 😁 Desoldering wick = ground strap! That's about the only use I can see for that stuff. 😁 I've got a different desoldering iron - it's basically just a traditional iron with a tube and a rubber squeeze bulb on the end. Works really good! I've saved myself $400 on 2 circuit boards over the past 5 years with it - one on my Amtrol Boilermate indirect hot water heater, and another in a Davis Vantage Pro 2 weather station.👍 It's super frustrating work, though - I have to keep my hammers far out of reach while doing this ... AWESOME vid, brother! HAPPY NEW YEAR, Eric, Vanessa, & the whole fam-jam! 🎊🎉🎊🥳

Nice work, especially for a first PCB repair! I am an electrical engineer and often re-work PCBs. A few comments: 1. You were using the solder wick correctly and it is used for such applications. You generally do not separate out the braid, just set it on top of the solder joint and place the soldering iron tip on top of the wick. It should then heat the solder joint through the wick and the solder should work its way into the wick. However, the little pen style soldering irons (like the one it appears you are using) don't generally have enough power to work effectively with solder wick. The solder wick acts like a heat sink and prevents a low power soldering pen from getting hot enough to work properly. Basically your soldering iron probably doesn't have enough beans for the task. You would have MUCH better results with a higher output power (regulated tip temperature) soldering iron like the Hakko (not a sponsor) listed below. In addition, these are a HUGE advantage when soldering or desoldering a pin that is connected to a large section of copper on the board (which is often the case). A small soldering pen will not be able to provide enough heat due to the heat sinking effect of the larger copper area. Having a good soldering iron with high output power capability makes a huge difference in doing PCB rework: Hakko FX888D29BY 2. Another viable (and quicker) option for removing a multi-pin component like a relay is to use a heat gun with a fine tip like the Dewalt (not a sponsor) listed below. Put the fine tip on, set it to ~850F-900F and point it at the pins while pulling gently on the relay from the other side. If used carefully all the pins will desolder and the relay can be simply pulled out while the solder on all pins is molten. Then it is easy to clean up the pin holes and solder in the new part. You do have to be careful if there are surface mount components on the PCB (either side) as you could accidentally desolder them if you aren't careful! DEWALT D26960K Heat Gun 3. It is generally recommended to clean the residual flux off the PCB (printed circuit board) after soldering is completed (depending on the type of flux it can be corrosive and lead to joint failures or electrical leakage paths over time). You can use a flux remover that is electronics safe like the Chemtronics one shown below. Not as much fun as brake cleaner, but almost!!! Chemtronics ES835B Flux Remover with Brush Love your great videos! Keep up the great work! [Edit: Looks like RU-vid doesn't like the links to those products so I removed the links...]

I like the way you "boldly go" where most of us would be afraid. Great video.

I took a TIPM apart in a older mini van , nightmare . thanks for another great video

A very fast and dirty way to de-solder without good tools is to spurt some compressed air on the solder after you melt it,, yes it will blow it all over the place, but it wont stick, it will brush right off.

Add Solder to remove Solder ;) Just a tip! (sorry, couldn't watch that part)

Awesome work, I’m in the middle of tearing mine apart right now, van won’t start.....without a circuit diagram I haven’t gotten far but I did find a bad relay.... you helped massively

Good work Eric, Happy new year to you and the family.