funky fresh clear is not cheap at all. I painted the top of my pickup and I used dimension clear which at cost was $60. To run the sherwin Williams clear we usual use at the shop would have been about $200. And that's just for the roof... thanks for watching!
its a long process but im putting my '74 ford camper special through the same treatment. paint was better back then, you could just remove some and get down to more good stuff.
Jessie Flores no sanding. The rubbing compound is aggressive enough to remove the oxidation and also give it a nice shine. To give it that extra kick continue buffing with finess then machine polish. I forgot to say that in the video. Thanks for watching!
Jessie Flores depending on the condition of the paint it should come out good. That oldschool baked enamel shines like crazy. I probably have about 10 hours into my 64 between buffing and waxing. I ran all three steps of compound on it. Post a video n let me know when she's all done!
Do you think it’s possible to get the same result if I use Meguiar’s ultimate compound by hand? Or I’ll only get the same result as you by using a buffer?
A couple years ago I had air powered buffer off Amazon that was about $60 for the buffer and pad. Of course they have electric also. Harbor Freight would be a good option as well. I wouldnt waste my time trying to do it by hand. You will be there for a week. I havent used the Meguiars compound. Make sure it is course enough to cut through the oxides on the paint. You do have to remove alot of buildup to get down to shiny paint.
Thanks for video the year old truck you drive daily has it showed any signs of rust progressing and how long before you have to wax it again and does the wax stick to the bare metal and rust?
Hey bud thanks for the comment. I haven't taken care of this truck like I did my other one. I haven't noticed any rust but the paint did oxidize a bit. And yes the wax sticks to everything. If it's somewhat warm out I plan to post an update video tomorrow. Keep tuned!
You get a thumbs up just for the beer! Can you clarify, you polished and waxed? Trying to do the same on a bicycle, polish and then wax, looks very good but just wanted to know if I'm doing it right. I'll probably end up putting about 3 coats of wax.
The main thing is the polish. The wax will get rid of minor scratches and give it a protective layer. If you want to get real carried away, on fresh paint jobs we use three stages of polish. Rubbing compound, Finess, and then Machine polish. Finished off with a coat of wax. The three stages of polish are like sand paper. Start course and work your way finer. One layer of wax should do it for ya. Let me know how it turns out and thanks for watching!
I guess I am a little confused with your question. This is old paint from original and fix n repainted again in the late 70's? The old single stage lacquer paint shines up very nice by just buffing it.
Looks good. I have an English 1961 Humber Hawk Series II still in it's factory paint but has aged. I would like to clear coat it or do something to seal it as the factory paint is no longer fully protective. I want to keep its age rather than a repaint. I am yet to decide what to do.
Hey William thanks for commenting. If you have the $ clear it. But if you are budget oriented as I am a little bit of upkeep is no big deal. That $1000 in clearcoat I saved went a long way into my air ride setup
It's pretty scratched up. I may just get it recromed. I ended up with an identical good ordimant for my 64. I think it would be money well spent. Thanks for the comment!
If its above 90 degrees out i will use a mist of water while using machine polish as it will dry too fast. I suppose you could substitute beer in place of the water….lol
How can you knock the shine down after this process..? I have a 69 chevy van & really only want to do the roof to keep the condensation & salt air from doing any further damage because the van is at the beach often.. there is zero paint left on the roof , just light rust from sitting parked DOA in the Riverside, Ca heat for 35yrs.. If i did do the entire body i'd want the finish a little flatter. you're trucks look good man .. Thanks G
I'd really like to try this on my car, but my paint is in pretty rough shape, where it is almost textured in a few areas. I think I might have to wet sand it first, and then do the cut and wax process. Would love to see this step by step!
I have this pickup completely buffed out now but I will be making another more detailed video when my black 64 dodge shows up. You can sand it but I would try buffing it first. As you can see the paint is very rough with oxidization and rust but now it feels like glass. Thanks for the interest and stay tuned for the next time I drink too much and make another video lol
Penetrol is just Boiled linseed oil with a little solvent in it. You can make the same exact stuff by adding a little mineral spirits to boiled linseed oil. However there are problems with both of those. The problem with boiled linseed oil/penetrol is that: 1. It isn't waterproof (so humidity still gets through it). and 2. It is extremely hard to remove if you dont like it on your vehicle. So when you layer it on every 3-6 months you are making a big build up of coating and how are you gonn get that off when you been doing that for years? the only way is sanding and chiseling. Theres a much better old farmers product called "Wellers". It was produced back in the 1940s for the steel parts of WWII planes. The aluminum didnt rust but to preserve the steel bolts and wheels etc they used Wellers. It uses some lab produced formulation of oils and polymers to block all the humidity from coming through onto the steel. It is also a wipe on thing like BLO (boiled linseed oil) / penetrol but with much better results and better at patina locking in. The bottle I got has lasted forever too. I wouldn't let yellowing BLO/penetrol near my ride unless i wanted a gummy mess I couldn't remove. you'll noticed that buildup/yellowing over time. If you only have one layer on now I'd remove it before it cures for years (use mineral spiritrs or rubbing alcohol to get a young layer off) and then get that Wellers stuff I mention.
Can u explain what buffed out means? From scratch raw body with old paint and rust ! I first used CLR and scrub pads to scrub off rust off my 1949 truck .. want my patina to stand out like this truck of yours! I bought the buffer machine at harbor freight for about $60 .. So now what? since ive read ur comments below states no sanding needed soo do the 3 steps youve listed below? 3m rubbing compound then instant detailer then cleaner wax? right
diane parrott hey buddy, sorry I didn't see you commented. I will be doing an update video soon on the exact steps. But yes, no sanding is required. Start with rubbing compound and the finer compounds you go the more it will shine. Check out my other video "prepping a show truck for candy lace" I think I named it. It shows the truck with rubbing compound and finess. I will be doing machine polish soon enough to give it that extra shine
You are 100% correct. This issue becomes this is a $500 pickup. To buy a quality clear to put on it would cost about $1000 plus all the masking tape etc. And using a cheaper clear is just asking for trouble. Especially when it starts to peel and ruins the entire paint job. I suppose it all depends on your budget...
Any way you could go step by step and what product to use I have a 1966 c10 my great grandfather bought brand new and it needs to look like yours thanks
Larry Stubblefield soon buddy. This pickup is all cleaned up. I'm getting a black 64 soon where I'll do a complete video for you. I'm also going to be making another video on this one this week.
Dude, there HAS to be another step...I tried this on a part of the hood on my 85 ford and it looks like CRAPOLA! I know this is an older video, but I gotta ask how abrasive is that cutting compound you used? I used Meguiars Ultimate Compound...maybe it wasn't abrasive enough? AND, I wet sanded before I started!
85? Does that have clear coat? I assume it does. And the clear is probably peeled off by now. You can't buff base coat and make it shiny. This is old school lacquer single stage paint. What grit did you wetsand with?
@@chadhoggan4139 Hi Chad! I assume that it had clearcoat at one time...also it was re-painted in the early 90's. So, it must have some. Makes sense on buffing & base-coat. I used 1000 grit. There may be some rattle-can clear spray paint in my future, gulp
@@jtmacready it's hard to say what to do without seeing it. But.... generally I wont buff anything more course then 2000 grit. That could be part of the problem if it's got clear on it.
If that's the original paint which would be single stage yes. If someone has painted it and used a base/clear paint then it won't work very well. Only one way to find out buddy! Give it a shot and let me know how it turns out.
Hey Austin any auto part store that caries paint supplies should have what you need. 3m is one of the best but also costs alot. Last I checked a bottle of 3m was about 50 bucks. Defiantly look at some cheaper alternatives as they will all work to buff out an old rat. But as far as the show cars I paint at the shop it's all 3m.
honestly it depends on how much "patina" you have and what you want to do with it. 3m comes in 3 stages. 1,2 and 3. i would recommend using all three stages if you want a good shine. followed up with a good wax. the old lacquer paint holds up to about anything, its very durable. when in doubt test a small spot to see if its what you want. but my personal recommendations would be rubbing compound, finess then machine polish. that will give you the best shine and also get rid of the roughness on the paint.
I just a just got a 52 ford pick up. The paint is in super shape with some patina . I want to do what you did to your trucks however can I pit the linseed oil on after the buff and wax for additional shine? What would happen? Please anyone your thoughts thanks
Hmm good question. I would probably do one or the other. With buffing the compound leaves kind of a micro wax behind. You could probably put the oil down after buffing and be alright. But after wax the oil probably won't do anything. I would try it in a small spot and see what works best
@@chadhoggan4139 Chad thank you very much for your input another question though there is some pitting on the paint if I sand that down will it Bentley fit primer polishing the pits looks bad but least a nice shiny primer looks better for patina what's your thoughts
@@jamiesmith2868 personally I would leave it. You might start sanding and make the patina look fake. As your going for the shiny, smooth and slick look clear coat may be a good option for ya. Just open up ur check book!
@@chadhoggan4139 yep and you hit the two points I really want to avoid the fake look and opening that checkbook well it's getting delivered in a week or so when I get it I'll post some pictures and we'll go from there I like for you to see it
If i was going to use anything it would be dimension DC5020. Which is one of the cheaper, but high quality clears. Care to take a guess of how much that would cost?
Depends what clear coat you use. I paint vehicles for a living. Just because you can get a clear kit for $150 dosent mean it will last. Plus you have to factor in your incidentals such as tape, plastic, sand paper etc. Plus the R&I of all the glass, chrome and mouldings so the clear dosent start to peel. I understand your point and you are correct. But to do it by the book adds up fast
Bob Loveland if I pull the bird off there will be 3 holes in the hood thou. Which will OCD me into painting the entire pickup. I did the roof already. I'll post a video on that one of these days
Thanks for your input. I dont paint my personal vehicles for the simple fact I will OCD too much over them. With a "patina" vehicle I daily drive them and don't worry
