I show you how to connect your valves to the stubs so they can be replaced without cutting PVC. Make this easier on the next guy because it'll probably be you. Instagram: / do._everything Twitch: / saftey_steve
Great video, I am getting ready to install 4 valves and this way with the parts you used is spot on~! I gotta go get me some of those parts tomorrow now...
Awesome, glad it helped. I'm trying to make it easier for the next guy because it's probably going to be you. Seriously, it seemed so backwards to glue on threads and thought "there must be a better way"
Have you ever seen or had to replace a fully brass anti-siphon valve? I have 6 champion brass anti-siphon valves in my irrigation system for the past 25 yrs, and they’re built like a tank! I only replaced the washers/gaskets in the anti-siphon side and valve actuator side after many years of use…and only one solenoid I needed to replace. It’s been really worth the extra cost for the brass valves.
That's awesome. I have never owned any of the brass ones. A lot of the plastic ones are rebuildable but they are so cheap it isn't worth it. The rebuild kit is like $2 less than the whole valve.
Two thoughts: Grey PVC is for above-ground applications, and white PVC is for below-ground. Out here in the desert, white sunburns and disintegrates (must be Irish like me!). Also, the average height for above-ground valves should be 8-12 inches depending on the freeze.
Thank you. I wasn't considering that, I was just replacing like with like. The freeze isn't too bad and the only thing I've read is that in order for the anti siphon to work, the valve needs to be above the sprinkler by a certain amount (which I was also not concerned with)
It is not. In either the shot or the test right before the shot I turned it on with the screw on the top and by design those let it water when you open them that way. The joint leading to the valve is fine.
@@jaydee3046 Sorry, the water should be coming from the bleed screw which it is not. Definitely coming from the pipe connection. I'm sure he fixed it but probably didn't care to rework the video. Not knocking him but he told you he was lazy. By the way, the joint leading to the valve was fine, not talking about that one.
@bkvike it was dripping from the bleed screw because I tested it before the shot and it was still wet. I will do a follow-up short if you want me to (seriously, reply to this comment that you want that). I attempt to be lazy though to do stuff right the first time so I don't have to do it again.
@@unprofessionallytrained3956 I'm sure you fixed it like I stated. I don't really want anything. I just replied to a year old comment I made. I'm not trying to dog your channel, I just made an observation.
Neat idea, thanks for sharing. But I must correct you on the incorrect use of term ground wire. The second wire is called Common or Neutral, not ground. A ground wire, not present in irrigation system, but possibly present in other AC circuits is only there to provide an emergency return path. A ground wire is never part of the normal operation of the device needing power.
You are completely correct. I commonly refer to negative in DC systems as ground simply because that's how they are drawn in circuit diagrams and also have to be added to circuit simulations for them to work. Saying it that way was lazyness on my part and I never actually checked if those solenoids are ac or DC. 🤔
Wouldn't it be more clever to include PVC Unions on the valve's 2 vertical pipes, for easy removal & replacement, without diminishing the pipes' volume?
Could be but that would take more fidgeting with a small piece of pipe and glue and the thread adapter. I found this easier and haven't found it restrictive on water flow.
Hate to say this but that is absolutly leaking. Always remember that teflon tape doesnt apply to all applications. And i think if you removed the teflon tape that it would seal correctly.
I don't put any on mine. They seem to be fine if you tighten them enough. This type of fitting isn't supposed to seal on the threads and the adapters seal on the o-ring. But I suppose you can add some but it's very important to make sure you put on Teflon tape in the right direction or else it won't work.
@@unprofessionallytrained3956 mine always leak at the threaded inlet/outlet of the valve. There are also removable push to fit fittings, like shark bite.
@@unprofessionallytrained3956 I used the SharkBite fittings for my water heater replacement 20 years ago. I've replaced the water heater twice since with the same fittings. No leaks. I trust them more than my soldering ability
@@unprofessionallytrained3956No. Leaks are caused by contaminants and not winterizing the valves when there’s a freeze. Putting the valves that low on the ground defeats their purpose of preventing backsiphonage.
Makes sense. It doesn't really freeze here but we do have hard water. This is actually installed higher than the last person but I will raise them next time I have a problem
