Advice per grade simplified: V0 - Use Chalk V1 - Warm up and rest adequately V2 - Improve your mental game in relation to falling (Just Jump) V3 - Learn how to land safely (Same mental aspect from V2) V4 - Try harder grades than you're used to V5 - Be more analytical with your climbing (Teach others) V6 - Don't underestimate the myriad of factors (Skin/Conditions/rest etc.) V7 - Be more aware of your own body (Extension of V5) V8 - Work your weaknesses V9 - Climb with a motivated training partner V10 - Try new things & do stuff you're bad at (Extension of V8) V11 - Climb with someone who climbs in a different style (Extension of V9) V12 - Find something that plays to your strengths when breaking into a new grade (Lake district soft?!!) V13 - Have a strong mental game in relation to positivity when training V14 - Train specifically to your projects/areas that feel particularly hard (low hanging fruit) V15 - Actually discover what 100% is like & access is in training regularly. (People thinking 50-80% is their 100%) V16 - Prioritise the quality of sessions & Rest (Don't overtrain through volume) V16 - Work your weaknesses (Extension of V8 & V10) V17 - Climb with people for psych, beta ideas & power spotting Personally I think that something not mentioned specifically is consistency in training. These points are all highly valuable but if you're inconsistent with your training then you won't progress. This can be limited by injuries, which is when points referencing rest and not overtraining come in. As well, having a partner for psych keeps you going to the gym regularly; but ultimately if you rely on someone else for psych you'll eventually quit because it's about you and your own ability to keep going week in week out and not someone else's. Having a strong positive mental game is hugely important, but again it's not something you can learn in reference to whether or not you really want it. You aren't going to reach your full potential without giving a huge amount of time and effort to the sport. This being said, not everyone wants to climb at their "genetic limit". I also feel the title "Climbing tips for all levels V0-17" is misleading as it implies these people are giving you advice for the specific level as if that's the key to progressing when there. However, it definitely seems like this is just general advice, all of which is common knowledge, if not at least ,often forgotten.
Would love a video on how to try super hard without injuring yourself. I’d try way harder if I knew I wasn’t going to pull a muscle/tendon in the process. -V8 climber
Totally agree, particularly for older athletes. For me personally, I find I can only give maximum effort when I feel that no pulleys or joints are at risk. I therefore tend to climb very statically which is clearly less efficient but much safer at max output
Okay so if you're pulling muscles when trying super hard then those muscles are weak. If you're at V8 and in your base phase there isn't at least 1 session of conditioning a week that's probably it. If you don't do any training off the wall, time to start. If your issue is pulling finger tendons, you're probably over training or only climbing on fingery climbs without enough rest days, because you find muscle climbs hard, because you don't train that. Idk hard to say, feel free to open a dialogue.
@@MythAvatar You learn about your weakness often when it is too late. In my experience I got more from letting go If I feel like I could get injured and going back for many tries with slightly more commitment every time to see how far limit is, than going hard immediately. I managed to climb for almost 2 years without any injury and finally week ago my collateral ligament failed. It happend when ego pushed me to try hard on almost vertical sharp edged pinch which twisted my finger. So my advice is to try hard, but not at first try. Don't let ego affect your judgment and live to fight another day. Advice to go hard is usually told by people who climb for many years usually began very young so they are perfectly conditioned.
@@czatax So if you don't even know where your own limit is it's no wonder you got injured. If you don't know what your own weaknesses are you should do testing to find out, rather than using that as a reason not to train prior to an injury. Sorry to hear you got injured, by any chance did you do the LCL on a drop knee, are you a man 6' 2"+?
I know its played out advice but for v0-v2 it's all about: 1. Actually using your feet. Using the edge of toes, weighing them proper and generating power from them. 2. Hanging on ur skeleton. No reason to bunch up and use power if not demanded. Connects to 1. Push through feet not pull through arms. 3. Simple body position/flaging. If a hold points right, lean left. If reaching right hand, flag left. Etc
This was such a cool concept for a video. Really neat to get to watch how the knowledge increases in climbers moving up in grades and what you find important through the different stages of that journey
The best general advice I’ve heard that I would like to share were: 1. From Aiden Robert (V17): Detach yourself from the result 2. From Emil (V15): The goals you set are arbitrary, so you can arbitrarily add or remove the value you place on them
My best advice is consistency. If you want stronger fingers, commit to some program for a year. Better at pull ups? Do pull ups in every session for a year. Better at climbing? Climb 3 days a week for ywars.
Fascinating... I'm at the lower end of V2-3 and I'm still afraid to fall... the advice for V2 and V3 were all about getting comfortable with falling and landing... thanks! That's what to work on next!
Fear of Falling is a skill that, for most, needs to be trained at different levels! Find what is what you are able to manage and slowly but consistently get out of your comfort zone! My suggestion is to incorporate it in your warm-ups!
My top tip as a V4-5 climber is to avoid overanalyzing performance. I reduced my climbing days to attempt to increase consistency but actually significantly hurt consistency and strength gains.
It was nice seeing Bosi on top of this pyramid. He's such a nice, humble guy, sometimes you can forget all the amazing climbers who wish they could be as strong as him!
It’s generally said that in any domain, you are the average of the 5 people you spend the most time with. If you want to improve, always aim to be the dumbest in the room
Getting a finger injury prevention protocol is what I'd tell anyone who wants to push their limits. Robust fingers are good for confidence and will unlock moves on a larger variety of holds. Moreover, an injured climber is an unhappy climber and won't be improving anytime soon!
Totally agree Davy, really important! We think this is where a consistent hangboard routine comes in. What do you do for a finger injury prevention protocol?
@@LatticeTraining I'm still learning on this front, but the most important thing for me so far has been warming up on a fingerboard. This allows me to safely get an idea of how my fingers feel that day and how much I can push it in my session.
Imma save this for later, going back to the video as I progress. Right now I’m a solid V6 climber on the cusp of V7. As such, I’ll be focusing next on my heel work and other factors concerning body positioning in the coming sessions. Imma keep y’all posted when I move up and when I can hear what Teresa has to say;)
I got to V6 in a few months, but I never took any rest days, and it's really catching up. My elbows hurt so bad when I put ANY amount of pressure / strain on them, so I had to schedule an appointment with a PT in three weeks. Take time off and don't go every day!
More abstract advices from lower and higher grades. More technical from intermediate grades. Seems like becoming a Zen master practicing "action without intent" ("wu-wei") is part of the evolution process
Learn how to project. Dont expect a new pb after 2 sessions, spend like 10 sessions working and optimising the moves and than see how the climb feels :) that worked for me.
For me I’m partial to beta when I’m not climbing but when I’m climbing and someone is spraying beta and trying to get my attention it makes me want to do violence
The best thing is to just ask. When I see someone struggling on a problem I did, and there is an obvious solution they didn't see, I just ask if they want some advice or not. Most of the time they say "yes" and when they say "no" because they want to figure out by themselves, nobody is sad/angry.
I broke both my wrists last year and returning to climbing was extremely difficult, especially when it game to gripping slopers. I focused on this weakness training both on and off the wall and now I consider open handed slopers one of my strengths.
We know audio is really important. But a lot of these clips were sent in from climbers with no mic, or just a phone recording. And we didn't want that to get in the way of the video being publish. Hopefully the content still brought some value for you.
Kinda sucks that the pinnacle of advice is my biggest problem hahahaha. My local gym is right next to my states biggest university, so the members are kinda young and bitchy on average haahaha. It's been really difficult finding partners, let alone friends. I started really overweight as well. I've noticed as I've gotten stronger and lost weight, people are much more likely to talk to me or be friendly, which kinda makes me not like those people at some level. I recognize though that I've had a specifically odd experience at it. Had some really weird interactions there as well. I kinda can't wait to move and start over at a new gym.
Maybe people started talking more to you after they had seen you around for some time? At least in my experience I start talking with people after we have seen each other around a few times.
I think what she is trying to say is 'only when' you understand a concept or technique, try to pass it on. It will push you to fully understand it's details so that you can convey it in simple terms. I think it's a really good tip.
I've only been climbing for a couple of months, but when I unlock a move, sometimes others ask me to show them how to do it. In doing that, I think much more on how I did the move and how to do it if I was shorter, taller, more or less flexible or strong, etc. It has been really helpful to think about such things instead of just finishing a boulder and never touch it again :)
