Working with your kids remind me of working with my dad on the farm in Ohio where I was born and raised we had a had an A and B model John Deere tractors great memories
That is great showing the kids how to use tools, but most important you're bonding with the kids. A trick I found for keeping gaskets in place is spray the gasket 3M adhesive on one side and the part the gasket makes contact with. Let it set up for a few minutes. Carefully set your gasket in place and it will be where it is supposed to be when you bolt it together. Very good video! A++
Always remember when you park the tractor to always put it in neutral and snap the clutch back in. That bearing you greased only spins when the clutch is disengaged. So the less time its spinning the better for it. Because if that bearing does pile or pock up, its direct drive, there is no stopping it. Have heard stories of just just jumping off to hook up an implement and the bearing seizing up and the tractor just taking off backwards and running them over and driving until they hit something and stall. Know its a pain to do all the time, but is very beneficial for operator and machine.
Your daughter tickled me. Loved seeing her helping, and cheering! Blessings from Ohio. Just sent my old 1941 Farmall A that I learned to drive on out to Missouri with my cousin, who is gonna restore it. Been in our family since 1963. Videos on my RU-vid channel.
alot of us appreciate people like you who appreciate what yall inherited old or new and takeing care of it and keeping tradition most kids nowadays want the money and sell the land and equipment alot of the old farmers are unfortuneately passing away and the younger generaton not all dont want to work the land i appreciate you for doing so i love to hear the ole johnny poppn away my dad had one and he also had a farmall to bale hay my mom had horses all that land well over 100 acers is now houses in conn i now live in texas so god speed and keep on farmn
I enjoyed this video as when we farmed we had a A, B, & D John Deer tractors. When beating on the thread end of a bolt, do not beat on it with out putting a brass maul or piece of hardwood between the thread end of the bolt as you will damage the threads or balloon the bolt, making it difficult to start the nut. Be sure to replace those 50+ year old clutch springs, they tire with age. We could mow alfalfa in 5th gear with an attached International Harvester sickle mower on board. Check the rear wheel bots on the B and A as they came loose over time and in one occasion let the left rear wheel spin off the axle of the A. Keep the good videos coming. Don't get discouraged with repairs, we all go through similar learning cycles. Thanks Mogulsmoke
That's how I did my 52 B- just stack it up the way it comes out! And to take the whole clutch pully out, you have to do something with the wheel, it's in the way! You can let the air out, and use a ratchet strap to pull the tire in to get past it! That's right, the fork assembly has to come out! you pull the pin out right ahead of the oil fill cap! Pack that bearing right full, as much as you can get in it! The groves on the back side are oil slingers, line up your V"S, if it's off, the Tractor will shake! The bolts should move! Hold it, don't tighten down the nuts one at a time- when you start the nuts, when it first catches, count how many turns you turn it in by hand until they get finger tight,, and do the same for each, then go one cotter key hole each until you get a good snap on the clutch- those nuts have to be even, two can't be tighter than one- one can't be loose and the others tight- Good Job! when you coast start, use 5th, will start better!
Great content. Fun watching the video and someone taking an interest in their families heritage. I watched my father adjust the As clutch in the early 50s. I drove an A and as a kid don't remember any problems with the clutch. We also ground feed with the A, but my grandfather said the A was too hard on the stationary feed grinder. We farmed about 1400 acres. When the tractor was running sitting, I was instructed to put the A in neutral and then push the lever to re-engage the clutch. Eaglegards...
I love tractors & tractor repair. I was born in 1951 so your tractor is 72 years old. You're blessed with some great children. Are you a farmer? What do you need with a tractor? I guess you need a bush hog to keep up with all the cutting you have to do since you have such a large property. You need to protect the tractor from the elements. Should probably cover it with a tarp at least. John Deere are my favorite tractors especially a tricycle type. Cheers from eastern TN
A lot of people forget about the clutch pulley bearing. I’ve replaced several. It always good practice to knock it into neutral and engage clutch when it’s just setting and idling. To help with roll starting you can put it in 5th or 6th gear. I bet that clutch works a lot better after cleaning and lubricating the toggle bolts.
I remember when I was 7 and I helped my Dad work on the car. I had to hold the wheel lugs in my hand so that he wouldn't lose them. So he said. I will never forget that time.
Got lucky with that clutch. Looks in pretty good shape. When I redid the clutch in my 820, it was wore badly, tabs on the plates to almost wore threw and that clutch driver was really on there, had to make a puller out of an 1 1/2 inch plow frog because I bent everything else I tried. When it finally broke free from the tapered spline it sounded like a shot gun. Had the tractor in gear, wheels blocked and a 2 foot breaker bar with a pipe on it hanging off it before it came off. you know its tight when you can crawl a 9,000 lb tractor half way up a 12 block of wood with a bar and pipe. I used the tractor for pulling so a tight clutch is the heart of the machine.
I don't know if the metal parts of the clutch being rusty or you have the clutch adjusting bolts adjusted unevenly, but you should not have to pull back on the clutch handle to make the clutch stop. Also, you should have got the front pin out of the clutch rod when you had the yoke off. It might make life easier in the future. I was good to see a JD run. I have an electric start A and a 1940 B.
What a beast. I'll bet the first farmers that bought these tractors when they first got them would just fire them up and listen to them run - for hours.
When you have rust like that it's always good to wire wheel it off . It gives better disc to metal contact and gets rid of the residual trash. Get the kids into helping, that's a good thing. Good video !
Thanks for the video! My grandfather, Uncle, and then dad, had an older “A” which I drove a lot on the farm. When starting on a hill or towing, a higher gear works better. I would suggest a tarp also when parking outside. On ours rain would get in somewhere around the Crank and I would find the Oil “milky”.
Nice video hard to believe how dry that bearing was inside You have a nice tractor coming along good ! You won't have to open petcocks when you get the battery and cables figured out. Those are tough old tractors
Jordan that was greatfirst the head then the clutch great job you always need a back up tractor in case it runs use it keeps the hours down on the Kubota but a fantastic job on the deere.I would clean it up and paint it to make it last through the kids at least.
I’m in the middle of that same job on a JD50 that got out of hand. 1. Get that clutch pin out! Like you did. 2. That pivot for the clutch lever handle is pressed in. It’s easy to break that ear off the engine case. 3. The gear on the clutch meshes with the First Reduction Gear that you can see. On my JD50, that gear was loose and I’ve ended up finding more and more problems and taking most of the transmission apart. 4. Another spot that should be lubricated is the three pivot assemblies at the back of the clutch. It’s a pain to reassemble. 5. Shims on the crank spline is a backyard rig but the alternate is a new crank. I’d have put the shims in too. All good fun.
What happens with those clutch drivers is they come lose and the work on the splines. Ive heard of the splines being completely gone on the end of some cranks before. Gotta tighten the end nut pretty snug to set the tapered spline .
Make sure that arrows line up, or it will be out of balance. Leave the cover off so that water doesn't stay inside, that is the reason for all the rust. Tighten the nuts, get on the platform, a hard snap is needed to disengage the clutch.
Hello good video enjoyed it. Would not be much put a shed where you have it to protect it from the elements, I would consider doing that. For the time being put can over exhaust and breather keep water out. Have a great day.
Just noticed the cover for the clutch/pulley is missing. Suggest you search for this cover that went on the pulley to keep dirt and water out of the clutch assembly. Probably can find on Ebay. It fastens on kind of like a paint can lid. Thanks
Putting the cover on is the reason for all that rust, I put one for about a year, and it was very rusty, have several others that have been with no covers for 60-65 years and do not have the problem with rust. I don't have the cover on our tractors. When you put it on the hill, use high gear.
Like Mike said, my personal experience is that the cap keeps the water in, so I'd say it depends on your location, for dry dusty environments I'd keep the cover on for dust and dirt, otherwise you can remove it to try and keep the water from pooling in it.
Be careful driving. The steering wheel set you have with your A, is called a "tricycle" arrangement,, and they will turn over, very easy. Wide front is lots safer,, but you can widen the rear wheel settings to help a bit on the tricycle set up. We still run a 3020 with tricycle, very carefully. BUT, my brother and I are both in our 60s, so we are a lot more aware. You have a very nice video series and I love to watch.
Enjoy your video very informative. I'm in the process of changing the clutch on my grandfather's 51 A also. Was wondering if you could post the instructions on how it goes back together. I don't want to make any mistakes. Thanks keep the videos coming
My papaw did the same parking trick with his JD same model. He always parked it on a hill and never had a battery in the tractor. Always roll started it. Even with me on his lap, lol.
Pullies for flat belts are not really flat. The center of the Pully is higher than its edges< it has a Crown> When a belt is installed to run say a Seperator , as the belt rotates one side of the belt climbs toward the center of the pully and the other side of the belt does the same . If the pully was flat, the belt would come off unless perfectly aligned. Very njcd informative video. The Kid children add a lot and they will remember.
With the “A” model that I knew, you could start it by opening one of the petcocks on a cylinder and use the finger holes on the fly wheel to spin the motor. Once one cylinder was running just close the petcock and you are off and running. Works great if you are not on a hill.
I watched the first story on the wheel rake After seeing the storys on the overseas u tubes on the same thing, you may be able to push rather than pull the rake by a 3 point in front, then rotate the whole rake.by pulling the center.bolt,pin whatever.As long as you have it front mounted on the loader, you should be able to change the angle enough to try it I have no idea how much time you can waste but think about seeing what you are raking without looking backwards
I think she deserves a decent clean up and new paint . This type of JD is the ones that don't wear out. They stopped making these for that reason. The engines are that good and made so well.Id put up a lean to cover it some.
I bet someone already said it but higher gears (ex 6th) will give the wheels the most mechanical advantage to turn the engine over just the same as lower gears (ex 1st) give the engine more mechanical advantage over the wheels. It all depends on which way power is being transmitted wether you have more torque less speed or more speed less torque. No idea the ratios on the deere but on my ford jubilee: 1st locks the tires up as it’s trying the spin the motor too fast. 2nd is pretty rough but will get it going. 3rd cranks it over smooth but it has to be rolling a few mph. And 4th cranks it pretty effortlessly but you’d have to be moving pretty good for it to start. So I would use 2nd or 3rd on the jubilee since it’s a good compromise between cranking speed and torque
Hey I have one of those John Deere's I got to get it going if it's in about 10 years I love the way that thing sounds all right hit you up later her name is Ceola
All you have to do is put you a little roof up open on both ends so u can pull in one dive and it can still roll out the other side to start that how I have my barn so the tractor can roll out the other side to bump start it
No, tighten them evenly to adjust the clutch. Those nuts are not holding the tractor together! Snap the clutch lever back and forth as you tighten the nuts until you feel a good snap when you push lever all the way forward to engage the clutch. It’s explained in your owner’s manual.
Just watched you cruise through the woods. Looks like you are or will be in the market for a Brush Hog attachment. When parking the tractor on a hill and leaving it unattended be sure to scotch block the rear wheels so that some youngster does not get on the tractor playing and releases the clutch. That would be a disaster if the tractor rolled away with a child at the wheel. Mogulsmoke
If they were on it when you took them off make sure you put them back on or your going to have issues in the future if the clutch starts acting up again
Howdy! I rarely comment although my wife and I watch your videos regularly and I am a subscriber. I was just wondering how much mechanic training you’ve had for vehicles? You seem to do work on your tractors and trailers very well and confidently. I guess I’m really asking is do you really learn from RU-vid videos how to do all these things (and thinking carefully of course) because I want to start working on my stuff too.
I have no formal training in mechanics I just like problem-solving so you could look at it that way but it’s all just one bolt at a time. Just have to look at it like that. Glad you enjoy the videos!
Two 6v batteries have more cranking power then one 12v, leaving the tractor outside your going to get water in the transmission and roll starting it use 5th gear.
Having a single 12 volt battery properly sized will get you the same if not more cranking amps and will be more reliable because of better charging and more even discharge between cells.
OK acres, the JD you have is just a toy, compared to the 2 JDs my uncle had, his tires were about 7 ft. tall, and he told my once that there was only 1 piston, it was the size of a 5 gallon bucket! Thats what you could call a johnny popper, with a big bang!
