CNC Dust Collection part 1

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I have been needing to build a dust collection hook up for the CNC machine. In this project I used a modified version of the dust shoe that is on CNC Router Parts web-page. With the help of Nathan at CNC Router Parts, we made a design for a dust shoe with two 4" flexible hose connections. My hope was that with suction from two 4” hoses, I could get away without using the brush attachment. But I have found that the brush helps greatly in catching the dust and helping it up into the dust hoses.
part 2: • CNC Dust Collection pa...
Avid CNC: www.avidcnc.com/
dust shoe: www.cncrouterparts.com/paramet...
Plastic used: HDPE - High-density polyethylene
Some of the tools used in this project
Cantilever Clamps: amzn.to/1TJmAFx
Milwaukee 18-volt Compact Drill: amzn.to/1sj855F
Whiteside Spiral Bit with Up Cut Solid Carbide 1/2-Inch Diameter: amzn.to/1TJmHRj
Yonico Ball Nose 1/4-Inch Router Bit :amzn.to/2mjskNS
Flexible Brush: amzn.to/2qBN8lC
FastCap Glu-Bot Glue Bottle: amzn.to/1TJn0vq
3M Peltor H10A Optime 105 Earmuff: amzn.to/1sj80iw
3M Reusable Respirator: amzn.to/2cGwyPL
3M Particulate Filter P100: amzn.to/2bYwhaK
To see upcoming projects follow me on social media
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Опубликовано:

10 июн 2017

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Комментарии : 330

@davethompson3226 7 лет назад

That 3D Mt. Hood piece is amazing. I was totally unprepared for the plywood to act like a sort of a topographical map. I am stunned at how beautiful that is. Bravo!

@dpmakestuff 7 лет назад

Thanks for sharing your thought process for the design.

@davidkuhns8389 7 лет назад

The only CNC videos I ever watch are yours. I have no interest in CNCs, at all, but your videos are just so well made that I find them fascinating.

@jamescrombie2320 7 лет назад

Frank one thing you might try to replace the brush material is some vinyl plastic strips like you see in cold storage facilities to let people and forklifts through. We did this with our cnc routers at work. Some plastic around 0.02-.03 thick works fine. wrap a piece around the dust collector and cut slots every 1/2" or so. I you only have some thinner material, use two layers and alternate the slits in the plastic. One thing is to not make the strips longer than the distance from the edge to the cutter or they may get sucked in and cut off :-) Especially when using a planing cutter to flatten the spoil board. James

@frankmakes 7 лет назад

Thanks James, that helps

@okfj 7 лет назад

I've also seen someone use a piece of clear plastic from a bottle, but I'm not exactly sure of the results. Maybe just a 2-3" piece in front of the bit so you could watch it work.

@onjofilms 7 лет назад

I can see that working. I've made eye protectors from a mayonnaise jar, and drawer slides from clorox bottles (which is thin HDPE). So many reusable plastics out there.

@MrDrProfStewart 7 лет назад

I can confirm that this works- it's what we did at a local makerspace. The one problem we were having was it kept sucking in and collapsing, which wasn't a big enough problem for us to put effort into fixing. I's sure Frank can figure something out about that if he runs into that problem.

@We_Reddit 7 лет назад

I can't help but thinking as i watch this that at some point the brush material may get stuck or pushed back enough in the piece that is being cut, and it becomes entangled with the bit. I suppose a single piece of a plastic brush will just get cut off, but wouldn't using a bigger piece like vinyl strips risk this kind of entanglement and damage to the cnc?

@trentdavis1314 7 лет назад

I've got a similar terrain map of Mt. Hood hanging on the wall of my shop. We made it on our CNC when I worked at OMSI. It was a proof-of-concept for a bigger project showing the entire Pacific Northwest and would allow the user to place different types of power plants around the area and would show how much of the Pacific Northwest you could power with those different combinations of power plants.

@jeremyridley8565 7 лет назад

I like how the layers of the laminated ply make it look like a topographic map, very cool idea.

@stewartgilbert76 7 лет назад

Your videos always help soothe my hangover.

@TheSteveAS 7 лет назад

I missed ya Frank! Great to see you back in the shop. Order to the universe has been restored.

@lisag2771 7 лет назад

Never get tired of watching you.

@jeffodabear 7 лет назад

Love your videos Frank! Thoroughly enjoy your problem solving abilities!

@toompie69 7 лет назад

Finally it's here! Oh boy have I been waiting for this.

@lakebum6211 7 лет назад

I'm lovin' that push stick and now I want a CNC.

@mamilolucosi 5 лет назад

You are very talent Frank. Your video is well done and the stop motions are amazing. The best.

@brittanyb839 7 лет назад

Considering we just bought a Pro CNCRouterParts 4' by 8', I happen to love you very much right now, Frank.

@vedranlatin1386 7 лет назад

Hi Frank, the CNC machine I sometimes use has a big enclosure which is somewhat transparent and then an opaque shoe you can lower if needed. Both make it real hard to see what's happening so I decided to add a small camera inside the shoe. You can get a decent 1080p camera and a Raspberry Pi for very reasonable price and as a bonus you get CNC cam shots for the channel. You can take the bend out of your plastic parts by heating them with a hot air gun and bending by hand. Just go slow, and work out the correct temperature on scraps beforehand. Great videos, it really makes my day when a new one shows up :)

@frankmakes 7 лет назад

I like the camera idea. And I will have to try the heat idea on the plastic. Thanks.

@fryingdutchman8921 7 лет назад

Finally! I was waiting for this Projekt since you got that old cnc-table. Nice work!

@rickmccaskill7888 4 года назад

Love your push stick. Great video.

@lukasc4509 7 лет назад

Why isn't anyone acknowledging that Frank is a wizard?! He cleaned all of that plastic off without even touching it!

@T1nCh0 7 лет назад

Yes! New video. Todays is a good sunday.

@GregsGarage 7 лет назад

Go next level... Enclose the whole router like a fish bowl! I've seen a handful of shops that have a "router room" with a sliding glass door into it. That way you can see everything and keep the dust down. It's definitely a trick to keep those buggers clean.

@medicineman007 7 лет назад

Make the brush holder out of clear acrylic to give yourself more visibility. Cheers!

@CUclimber 7 лет назад

Yep. The Shopbot CNC router that I use has a nice clear acrylic dust hood. Works great, and you can easily peek in to see the bit.

@kirksidlo 7 лет назад

Someone on instrutables did this along with a clear vinyl skirt/brush and it looks really nice. www.instructables.com/id/Magnetic-ShopBot-Dust-Skirt/

@cornelyj1 7 лет назад

I was thinking the same thing.. Lexan? or Pexli? could be easy to heat and bend and drill holes etc.

@davidcoghill8612 7 лет назад

Using acrylic should also avoid the warping problem. Especially if you use cast rather than extruded.

@tomgifford7532 7 лет назад

medicineman007 I

@66tbird1 7 лет назад

Glad you got a dust shoe setup.

@BennedeBakker 7 лет назад

You can make a clear brush from 1 mm transparant PVC for example. If you wrap it around the dust shoe and make a bunch of slits along the edge, it will behave just like the brushes.

@frankmakes 7 лет назад

I have seen this, it may be a good option.

@rholt2 7 лет назад

where would you get clear PVC? Russ from Coral Springs, FL, USA

@Juddak 7 лет назад

Funny. I have a clear brush made of transparent plastic material and was just thinking about replacing it with a bristle version. You can't really see through the plastic anyway clear enough to be useful, and I think I'm getting more dust escaping than I've seen with the bristles. That said, I'm new to all this and my plastic-skirt version is the only one I've played with.

@williamdawson3353 7 лет назад

Love watching your videos and your shop is just fantastic. Been watch for a few years and the evolution through benches and CNC's is like the movie - 2001 Space Odyssey

@benzmansl65amg 7 лет назад

Fun as always. Thanks Frank.

@RobinLewisMakes 7 лет назад

Terrain carving is a really cool idea

@IlhanNegis 7 лет назад

that plywood turned out just great for terrain, exactly looks like a topographic map.

@JonathanRansom 7 лет назад

That is an awesome CNC machine

@joecnc3341 4 года назад

Another Great Video, Frank. Love the Table Saw Push stick (Circa 7:30) You do great work, love the videos, love the special effects that you do, too!

@NEUE.WERKSTATT 7 лет назад

Great work, am really impressed. Thanks for the video!

@FredMcIntyre 7 лет назад

Making progress! 👍

@brandonscott6606 5 лет назад

Making part for your CNC with your CNC. Neat.

@timkemp 7 лет назад

I've seen people using clear vinyl flaps instead of a brush and it seems to work pretty well. It gives you enough of a view that you can tell what's going on, but it's not perfect.

@dozer2100 7 лет назад

Nota 10 , tudo muito perfeito.

@68shiloh 7 лет назад

Thanks for sharing, well done.

@joelseymour6372 7 лет назад

thanks for posting

@minyongkim1355 7 лет назад

A very useful info! Thanks Frank.

@MaxMakerChannel 7 лет назад

Same situation. I have my CNC for 3 years now but no dust collection yet : D For filming I blow away the dust by hand from time to time.

@VentureVlog 3 года назад

Live the stop motion parts in it, really nice!

@GibClark 7 лет назад

👍 thanks Frank!

@timholiner381 7 лет назад

So, I have a dust boot for my X-Carve that is attached to the stationary part of the router carriage and adjustable up and down. This enables the brush to be at a fixed height over the workpiece and eliminates the tendency for the brush to affect the motion of the carriage. It does an admirable job of dust collection although I am not thrilled with the quality of the attachment/adjustment design. Just another thing to consider...

@nateauld 7 лет назад

Plywood + CNC for topographical maps is genius, kinda wished you put some finish on it so the layers would come out but it wasn't really the focal point of the video so that makes sense. Good luck with the dust collection amendments n thanks for sharing.

@wildtwindad 7 лет назад

hi frank. just an fyi, if you use a ca glue product you can in fact glue the magnets in. it works perfectly as well with magnet insets in mdf

@JeronimoJGC 7 лет назад

Great Video, thanks for sharing!

@alex.germany 7 лет назад

Hi Frank, nice Video - as always :-). Two recommendations: 1. If you want to glue something to plastic try RTV silicon. I use this even on POM and it works. It's not super strong but keeps the magnets or the brush in place. 2. To see the router bit during the operation you can make a cutout in the brush. This also helps controlling the air flow. If the brush is all around, the air do not know which way to go and sucking is from everywhere. If you have a small cutout in the area of the router bit the air has a specific way to flow and helps sucking (especially with your suction power). Best Regards from Germany Alex

@dansw0rkshop 7 лет назад

Use that heavy duty window film to make the brush. This is what I have on my CNC and it works great, you can see right through it.

@darthjeder 4 года назад

Greetings. Thanks for making. There are polyolefine primers on the market, like Loctite 770. godspeed

@tonyzeh 7 лет назад

Frank, always enjoy your videos. I have a smaller Shapeoko style CNC and had a dust boot which moved with the head and it always seemed to have problems. I got the Suckit Dust boot and you set the height for the dust boot and the cnc head can move independently. Works so much better, maybe you can design one of your own similar in style and it may function better as the hose stress on the head is taken away. Great video though!

@Wintergatan 7 лет назад

What do you think about making the holder from clear acrylic as a lot of people are suggesting in the comments? Possibly make the top part bigger in the front and be able to see the bit from above. It would mean less concentration of the suction power but the brushes stop the kinetic energy of the sawdust and the dust stays on the table. Or get collected the next time the router passes by. Thanks for the great video!

@Afewwilliams 7 лет назад

Wintergatan I love that you watch Frank's videos. You guys are both creative geniuses!

@frankmakes 7 лет назад

Interesting, I had not thought of making the plate bigger to make a larger window.

@4570Govt 7 лет назад

Frank, Suggestion/Thoughts of a madman: Put your Y connection on the router itself. Run a single 6" flexible hose from the ceiling duct down to your router instead of two hoses. Make sure to have some sort of swivel mechanism on the ceiling hose connection as well, or have a secondary hold point as to not stress the hose joint itself.

@brockga09 7 лет назад

chopperdan88 My thoughts exactly! Much less restriction with one hose over that distance from the ceiling to the router and less weight for the gantry to move around.

@sadface 7 лет назад

I thought the same thing. I was surprised when he put the Y connector so far away.

@briancv83 7 лет назад

well done! looks and works great.

@curtismakes 7 лет назад

Your projects are always inspirational. My $0.02 on this one: Also experiment with a single 4" hose shoe. Does the increased airflow from two hoses balance out the additional loss of suction from the increased size of your brush-enclosed area? My guess is no. The brush-enclosed area should be small for best results. You could actually use both hoses, but reduce down to a smaller brush area with a manifold--that would be sweet. The skirt needs to go all the way around and control airflow as much as possible to be effective. But, as suggested many times, an upper shoe cut from acrylic or plexiglass will increase visibility. Also, a making either the whole skirt or just a window region in your brush from a sheet of flexible clear nylon cut into strips will really help with the visibility. Cheers!

@imabeapirate 7 лет назад

I spend more time working and upgrading my CNC machine than I do using it to make stuff. And frankly, it's too much fun for me to have it any other way!

@neatpleats11 4 года назад

I enjoy your video's. Thanks

@xmicks 7 лет назад

You could make the (short) sides of the brush (where the hoses attach) from solid transparent material. You can see through and the suction is more centered to the bit.

@makerpat 7 лет назад

My suggestion is to see if there's enough room in the top of the dust collection fixture to have a Pi Cam (from a Raspberry Pi) and some LEDs stick through. Then you could monitor what the bit is doing in a web browser. You'd also have some cool footage.

@adickurig 6 лет назад

HDPE is a thermoplastic. Ergo you can heat it up, bend/remold it, and let it cool. That could fix your warping issue.

@constantinosschinas4503 4 года назад

a 2 or 3 inch removable/hinged brush in the center is the way to go. even when open, 95-98% of the dust will be sucked and you would still see the cutter working.

@byonbill9499 7 лет назад

Nice presentation as usual. I have been looking forward to see how you were going to solve this problem ever since the CNC was installed. Although this brush and suction approach seems like the most common and intuitive I wonder if there are not some different ways to do this. Some kind of a static attraction scheme perhaps.

@Tjita1 7 лет назад

I guess if you have longer brushes (so they seal better to the workpiece) and leave a gap on each side of the bit, air should go in by the bit, pick up the dust and head out to the side to the hoses. That way you could see the bit in action. Also, as someone else mentioned, you could make the top out of clear acrylic or polycarbonate. Another idea is that you could drill holes and glue in a couple of white LEDs to illuminate the workpiece.

@yaboi9156 7 лет назад

good videos as always keep it up

@jalmaquantin7213 7 лет назад

Super Job !!

@Petr75661 7 лет назад

4:44 nice winter scene :-)

@TomMcNerney 7 лет назад

Quick Tip: I was triggering my proximity sensor on the Z axis with my dust collection hose. The wire inside the hose was enough to trigger the sensor because it was dangling around the top of the Z axis. A small guard fixed it, but was a pain to figure out why it was stopping all the time..

@dleivam 7 лет назад

Awesome as always :-)

@phoneemail8503 5 лет назад

Someone else mentioned clear plastic, also you can leave a gap in the front of the brush the suction will still pull air in it and you can see the bit

@JimG31547 7 лет назад

Frank, I to use Lexan for the ability to see the bit and work. So far the Lexan has given me no problem. Jim

@timberdish 7 лет назад

Great progress Frank. How about a small camera mounted inside the brush area so you can keep an eye on the bit. Totally overkill but you have to admit it would be cool (as long as it didn't get covered in dust, lol).

@Ziraya0 7 лет назад

Just had a thought; while not all plastics are suitable for thermoforming, most plastics are in some way responsive in a useful way to judicious application of heat. If you have a scrap piece that's exhibiting this stress-bow I think you should experiment with heating it to relieve the stress. In an ideal world you'd heat it up to around 200~250F on a flat surface for 30~ minutes and all that stress would relax out without significantly impacting the parts dimensionally. The trick is going to be finding a low enough temperature to relax it without really getting it into the "workable" range where things might mush around. Looks like for delrin that's in the neighborhood of 180F; for Corian it's 300~350F PS, take the magnets out before tempering; heat can make them demagnetize.

@GlassImpressions 7 лет назад

Here is a brush I had made for filming. It has the brush left off on the filming side. instagram.com/p/BUsfXDchMZi/

@frankmakes 7 лет назад

Yes I saw that design about a week ago. it was what was getting me thinking about altering the bristles

@SmithDrewSmith 7 лет назад

What about a T shaped brush where the router is at the intersection, the hoses are at the ends of the arms, and a gopro at the bottom, aimed at the bit?

@zachbrown7272 7 лет назад

use the clear plastic brush parts. the brush is really just to corral the dust and create a negative pressure in the cavity. If you used clear plastic flexible "fingers" you could see the work piece and get optimal suction

@ryantaylor6831 7 лет назад

If the modified bristles don't work out, you could do what I did. Mine is made of clear plastic on the top. You might not be able to get it thick enough for the same way you did this, but I'm sure there's some way to incorporate or include clear windows from the top. Visibility isn't perfect but it helps a lot.

@davidpesavento6502 7 лет назад

More 3D carving!!! Awesome setup!

@compucar03 7 лет назад

As you go along with CNC I think you will find it is faster and safer to machine out the entire internal volume of the 4" circles rather than leaving little bits to trim off and pulling out the big chunks.

@f.hababorbitz 7 лет назад

Dust collecting, one of my most frustrating issues in the shop. Last year, I thought that overarm table saw dust collector is on sale. That has to work great, can't be any worse then the current spray of chips from the 14" blade. Well, wrong. It does not work because you can't get enough suction flow at the end of a pipe. And flexible hose, just adds more restriction. In my case, I used a dedicated dust collector, with a short 8 foot piece of semi rigid 4" vacuum hose, to the reduced 3" pipe of the overarm collector. The optimal suction would be the vacuum impeller mounted right to the dust hood, moving the maximum amount of air. The other issue with the table saw collector, is the darn thing is in the way anytime the rip fence is within the dust hood size distance from the fence. Your overhead hose, I suggest to leave the 6" pipe size, as far down from your ceiling as possible to minimize the restriction from your 2 corrugated hoses, making the Y split as close to the Z axis spindle as possible. I wish someone would make a compact light weight motor/impeller for just these sort of collector issues where super high volume is needed. Thanks for the videos.

@PhilWaud 7 лет назад

Great video Frank, thanks. The brush needs to be as long as the bit - maybe you could have separate brushes of different lengths? Re seeing the work - it's going to be difficult, making it out of clear plastic or adding a window is going to get dirty. The section of the dust collection head near the bit could be much narrower though, almost like a figure of 8 so the dust collection is at the side with a narrow section in the middle. You still won't be able to see the bit, but it will be more obvious where it is?

@harryjnr2335 7 лет назад

Nice vid frank, I would try it with a gap in the brush first so you can see the bit. maybe a led light in there also.

@garymccoy2888 7 лет назад

I don't usually watch CNC videos, buy your videos are the exception. Thanks .

@Ernescme 7 лет назад

The fact that there is stress in the plastic is not odd. There actually are stresses in plastics. Especially in extruded parts and parts that are stretched (vacuum forming for example).

@TuffMovies 7 лет назад

get gopro + small led inside the brush thingy, so u can monitor and get full cleaning +footage?

@rjtumble 7 лет назад

I wonder if you could make something out of small vinyl flaps. I'm thinking of the curtains you sometimes see used as barriers to a walk-in cooler. Neat video, as always, your time lapse stuff is really fun.

@ksp1278 7 лет назад

seeing Frank struggle to collect dust with his impressive dust collection system makes my situation, with just a shop vac, seem all the more hopeless. Haha. Anyhow, this video was enjoyable to watch as always. CNC-themed videos have a tendency to be boring, but somehow Frank seems able to avoid that and keep the videos interesting.

@WildmanTech 7 лет назад

Given enough time, i'm confident I can model any part in Fusion 360...then I'm completely lost on the CAM. A local machine tool distributor offers a 6 hour class (for $500) that I can't afford. Good build!

@dionicia12 7 лет назад

If it helps for reference, there is a boot for Shapeoko CNC machines called the Suckit Dust Boot. It doesn't look like it will fit your machine, but you might be able to make something similar.

@CRACKERMARINE1 6 лет назад

It's better to make a "spoil board" to screw your projects to, so your not messing up the wood clamp top... I know you can resurface it.. but you only get so many passes. Also watching your machine cut the dust shoe, your cam is not set set for optimal cut paths for sure. For test pieces... I buy the sheet foam at big box stores... (I prefer the purple 3/4" stuff)peel the plastic off and cut/shape away... cuts easy and fast, less wear on your bits... and if you mess up with the g-code it doesn't break anything, and less money than wood. I built my 10' cnc table from scratch, and I run cambam... for my cam software. 4kw liquid cooled spindle. Good tool. -Mick

@furrane 7 лет назад

My advice : leave a gap in the brush in the middle of the length (where the bit is). This comes with two advantage and one disadvantage : + You can see the bit doing the work from most angles (depending on how wide the gap is) + This drastically decrease the chance of brush-bit unwanted interaction. - You loose a bit of suction power

@frankmakes 7 лет назад

This is going to be my first experiment.

@jasonjohnson6216 3 года назад

I have that exact bandsaw

@robh1227 7 лет назад

Excellent vid, as always. Maybe remake the brush out of a clear shower curtain liner?

@beenwandering 6 лет назад

I saw a video the other day that had duct tape folded together and cut into strips around a dust collection to act as brush bristles. It made me think of this video.

@T70781 7 лет назад

Based on some measurements I've done using a laser particle counter, I would guess that you were catching most of the fine dust (the dust that causes health problems) even without the brush. The larger bits have much more momentum so they require more air velocity to capture. The brush accomplishes that as well as bouncing them back into the air stream. With the large amount of airflow you have, you might be able to get by with a small opening for viewing. I attached my boot to the stationary frame so it doesn't move up and down with the spindle. That also allows a large opening in the center where the spindle moves through to see everything that's going on. Essentially, most of the air is drawn down through that center hole so you can see the bit but still catch everything. Unless you do a lot of 3D cutting that's taller than your brush, a boot that is held stationary in the vertical axis works better for most projects. I was going to design mine to mount either way but found that I don't need it.

@frankmakes 7 лет назад

It did seem like it was getting the fine dust, which is the real killer.

@stevensrspcplusmc 5 лет назад

Frank could you put a flange of aluminum between the 2 pieces of plastic? Love your channel 👍😊

@kbarry29 7 лет назад

Frank, Great project! I like to hear your process, especially when it is a work in progress! What did you use to make the gcode path for the mt hood cut?

@MaxMakerChannel 7 лет назад

I recommend shields for your linear rails. A piece of aluminium in the sled will really mess up your day.

@frankmakes 7 лет назад

I was thinking about that as i was waiting for the long terrain cut. some shields attached to the vertical gantry posts

@MaxMakerChannel 7 лет назад

True

@TheMomisLP 7 лет назад

Hey Frank, my name is Moritz and I am from Austria. I have a lot of experience with Fusion360 both privately and from cnc classes at school. If you want to I could help you with some of your CAD and CAM and show you some tricks I picked up. Nice video, keep it up!

@will11m 7 лет назад

Regarding being able to see the bit, it's possible to mount a cheap webcam in the dust hood. If the dust collection does its job, it won't get dusty, they last a decent amount of time even with the vibration, and even when it breaks it's only $20 to replace it.

@GlassImpressions 7 лет назад

Frank, great documentary of the process. Curious where you sources your camera clamp that you attached to your Cnc?

@frankmakes 7 лет назад

manfrotto magic arm. I got it on Amazon

@TerryPullen 7 лет назад

Another great video. Your CNC's lack of dust collection has been bothering me... yeah, I care about you :) Anyway twin 4" tubes are probably over kill one 4" is probably more than enough. I think the important detail is getting the brush right. I would try cutting a piece of PET from a large clear pop bottle, this plastic can be vacu-formed or just used as is. Just tape some in place and see how it works. Hell yeah! Once again I have bestowed another completely useless opinion upon the internet public and I can call it a day.

@BrenoLuna 7 лет назад

Hey, Mr Howarth. If I may suggest, the brush and its holder could be a separate apparatus attached to the back plate. It would ensure it kept a fixed distance from the bed while giving complete clearance for the spindle to move up and down. I'd love to share a few sketches with you to clarify my suggestion. Cheers!

@tawmrawff 7 лет назад

Have you tried double stick paper based tape? we use Intertape brand 591 flatback paper tape. Good stuff! Use it to hold parts down to the table, and then pry them up with a spatula or scraper.

@jpetersson6165 7 лет назад

I think it might be possible to heat the PE to release some of the tension in the plastic. If you lay it flat in an oven and heat it up I'm guessing it will flatten itself. No more than about 100°C.