CNC Router build part 9 Completion! 

Hey, your welcome and thank you for watching!

Thanks!

+PATRICK MCKOWEN There are local CDN sources for all the parts shown in the video so the exchange rate won't be an issue. There are many Canadian distributors for 80/20 up here. I'm looking at them myself...... I'm not sure where you're located but here's a place in Mississauga On. store.cpiautomation.com/

Me too, good luck 😊

you are welcome sir.

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Adeltib Tibata Thank you!

***** thank you for donating time and efforts. a question about the sheet metal case for the electronics: did you get it from the kit supplier or from another source? which one?

thanks.

Mach 3 provides a pulse width signal that can control most any VFD. See section 5.6.6 of the Mach 3 config document. For the basic idea. The output pin from the breakout board is configured similar to the stepper dir and pulse pins. Section 5.3.1 shows you where this is. The signal is a 0 to 5 volt level. Not sure if its the pulse width or pulse rate that does the trick put I suspectt its the frequency., Dont have a scope to check it. Check the docs on your VFD and look to see if it supports an external control of some sort. In any rate I HIGHLY recommend optical isolation from the breakout board to the VFD. Using the same setup screen you can also use a relay for on/off control also on the same pin, but only either on-off OR pulse width- not both at once. The 110 to the router is ran to a switch on the side of my CNC where its real handy along with a switch wired to a socket for my shop vac I use for dust control.. EVERYTHING I need real handy. None of that reaching all over the place for switches. Most of the time I just use a trim router but I have things set up where I can switch to a 300 watt spindle using the MACH 3 pulse output or a manual knob. Takes mabey 20 min to switch over. Best thing for cutting and engraving on metals and plastics. Router wont run slow enough to prevent melting plastics. My e-stop is in a small wood box on the end of about 8 feet of cable. I just move it wherever I may need it, real close if Im doing something on the weird unpredictable side. The power switch will also kill everything if needed too. The space bar also acts like an e-stop but in reality its just a pause switch. My limit switches and E-stop are set up where normal is closed loop or 5 volts to the breakout board. That way if there are any breaks in the circuit--- no go. Also easy to check for opens with an ohmmeter for trouble shooting, if /when needed. I also recommend putting a 15 amp breaker on the control box like on power strips. Beats the hell out of having to go hunt down a tripped breaker somewhere. :) I use just 3 steppers. I set mine up where I work from the side and not an end. Works better for me. The bed your y and my X has a cable under it that takes care of one side getting ahead of the other. Its in basically a modified X setup using 4 V rollers, 2 at each side. Check out one of those old drafting tables for how the horizontal bar stays parallel. Same exact idea. If you want to make a new case you can find the dimensions for all the DB style cutouts on line. I use 4 pin round aircraft connectors that have a screw ring on the male half where they lock in place. Cant pull one out accidentally. .The say way to wire limit switches is to use a SINGLE common ground pin with the switches serried on each axis. Gives you a nice 4 pin layout, hot pin for each axis and the common ground for all the axis. .

Mach 3/4 is capable of doing far more than most realize such as VFD speed control, etc. The manuals only very lightly hint at how you can customize it for very specific needs. Check this out for a LOT of info on it. www.machsupport.com/forum/ One thing I have set up is nothing more than an 1.5 inch piece of 1 inch angle aluminum set up as a touch probe and a bit of code under the Tool Zero button.. Set upright against the zero corner of something it gives me an absolute X and Y zero centered on the bit diameter and a Z zero. Zero can be off a couple or 3 thou depending on the surface roughness. A few years back I ran across how to do this on the net. I almost never home mine as the real zero point you are interested is the zero point on the part. One easy way to get a good zero point if you reference a corner of the stock as the work zero is to put a piece of paper between the stock and slowly jog over until there is a bit of drag when you pull lightly on the paper. Next enter half the diameter of the bit in the approate DRO as a minius sign then the figures. The measured point will be off by half the tool diameter in the negative direction The true zero is the center point of the bit, so when you hit the go to zero button, the axis will go positive setting the tool center directly over the edge, the true zero point. If you want a zero somewhere of the edge then use the MDI screen to enter the offset, then zero the DRO. Far easier to do than to explain and doesn't require using some marked point on the table to allighen a jig to. As you cut those T-track slots with the CNC just simply align one edge of a jig to the t-track by dropping someting thin enough to fit in the slot then push the jig edge against it. Quick, dirty, and simple to get parallel to the cnc bearings. Then use the above to get your starting point.

+MyRobertadams I bought the same VFD you have. The VFD you're using does have the ability to set spindle speed from the break out board outputs. You will have to program the option in the VFD in addition to setting it up in Mach 3.

See section 4.6 Spindle control, in the mach install manual for the details how to set it up. The operation manual also has it but I dont recall exactly where, check the index. For the controller setup go here. www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/cnc-spindle/300w-1hp-cnc-air-spindle-controller check the docs section on the lower left of that page. Note the hot and ground from the breakout board goes to the 2 pin connector beside the trim pot. Ground is closest to the trim pot. Also you must move the jumper next to that connector TOWARDS the connector. the empty pin will be on the side by the trim pot. This is where I got mine.. They also have some serious steppers those little g-shilelds cannot handle. Mine uses 3 separate stepper driver cards capable of 40 volts at 3 amps a phase and nema 23 450oz/in steppers. These were in a kit along with the power supply and breakout board as a kit when I built mine. Best I remember was something like $500. Also I highly recommend you get some extra fuses. That fuse WILL blow if you manage to stall the spindle for more than a few seconds. I learnt that by running some g-gode setup using 120 ipm travel with around 3/8th depth of cut with a 3/4 inch bit, typical what I often do chewing up MDF using the trim router for a spindle.. Now I check the code first. lolol This should fix you up fine..

gracias a usted por tomarse el tiempo de hacer este video saludos desde gran canarias

***** It is possible that the effect of shocks on the Y axis are caused by the high altitude of this axis. The Z axis produces lever on Y

Thanks! They were part of a kit from cncconversionkit.com but they are no longer in business that I know of.

+MyRobertadams yes start / stop and Control of spindle rotation

many thanks for your reply ***** do you mean i should use 4 axis interface board ?? to make the two axis work at the same time

If an E stop is in, there would be a message on Mach3 beside the red reset button saying "Press reset...... Emergency Mode Active....." Other than that, I don't know what could be wrong.

Ok thans lot, see you

Robert, don't know how to send you a private message. email: thonlyone@gmail.com. Thanks, Ken

thanks!!! great advice i will check it out!!!

thanx mate ..

thanks sir for the ind and quick response how to connect with PC through USB or parallel port and which software do you use,

Thx alot for your quick reply. But i am asking about your machine's max jog speed

I think ur machine can achieve 160 ipm. I am using much smaller motors and can get with it 60 ipm. You can get out of ur machine more than this with a little tweaks

I sent you 3 jpgs and and explanation for the plates (perhaps) bob let me know if you did not get them bob

I sent the jpg-s by hitting return on your last email--it came to my private email. my email is anchorite@socal.rr.com send me yours and I will resend the jpgs... bob