Video Notes: - My CNC machine (AR8 Pro+): bit.ly/2Csz3Qs - Article for this video: jayscustomcrea... - Enter the HUGE giveaway: jayscustomcrea... - Whiteside SC70 engraving bit: amzn.to/2UrP53q
You educated me a lot here, Jay. I sometimes am overwhelmed with all the new terminology and techniques I'm learning, and this clarifies open vectors for me a lot. Thanks!
Bought the same CNC, now time to go to school, thanks teach. Can't wait to see what all you have for me. I have been hesitant to get into this, old dog new trick I guess. I had a carvewright for about 12 years and didn't love it, hoping this new tool changes my mind on this future of woodworking. Thanks Jay.
Video Notes: - My CNC machine (AR8 Pro+): bit.ly/2Csz3Qs - Article for this video: jayscustomcreations.com/2018/12/cnc-wasteboard-grid-open-vectors-and-wasted-time-via-rapid-speed/ - Enter the HUGE giveaway: jayscustomcreations.com/huge-500k-100k-giveaway/ - Whiteside SC70 engraving bit: amzn.to/2UrP53q
Hi Jay. I don't use any kind of hold down clamps anymore. I use a 3/4 inch sheet of mdf for my waste board and screw everything right down to it. Clamps are a hassle, get in the way of the cnc moving, and just a plain pain to keep things perfectly flat. If you need to setup some kind of a fence just screw one down. When the surface gets rough just give it a quick plane. When the mdf gets to tore up, just replace it. MDF 3/4 inch is cheap. Try it you will love it! See your using V carve, it is a great program! Thanks for the video's!
Jay, I'm a long time listener, first time caller. Must have missed where you got in to the CNC thing again. I can't wait to see more of your CNC content. Love me some Gatton, and now I can get even more on this topic. Keep up the good work!
Brilliant, informative, essential, worthwhile and definitely not 'rambling. I am calibrating my OpenBuilds CNC machine now so every bit of 'experienced knowledge' (is that a thing) that I can get is valuable. All the best and thank you.
Very cool awesome walk through/tutorial. Amazing on the different set ups in two ways vs. time it’s working and time not making any cuts. Awesome information.
Great video. I had one idea that Im not sure anyone else pointed out but you can get rid of the rapid without joining the two zig zag lines in your project. The reason for the rapid is the program creates the toolpath from the start of a vector to the end. Your first vector and your second vector start at the same place, they also end at the same place. If we change the starting node of the second vector the tool will not have to do a rapid movement. This can be done in Node Editing mode. Choose the node in the upper right of your project, right click and choose Make Start Point (you can also just hover over the point and type P). Our school just got an AR8 and I will be carving a grid like this on it as soon as I can. Thanks for the tip.
Jay, Thanks for a great video and explanation. Tried a couple of other videos and they just didn't break it down as well as you do. Great info and I love the way you take the time to explain the subject.
not only do i get entered into a contest but all those links legit gave me some info ive been looking for lol. You also have sent me in the right direction for a hardwood provider. Ive been searching Chattanooga and Huntsville for good material for a bit now. City hardwoods is only an extra hr away and hope to head down there within the next two weeks. keep it up fella. Great stuff
Great VIDEO JAY... many new comers get caught up in this orientation issue, myself included. I am going to be making a brand new spoil board. This video will be a huge help. Best of luck in 2021!
Thanks for the video. I like to leave the grid vectors on a separate layer that can be brought visible at any time to align computer design with machine orientation.
You could even reduce the time by node edit one of the lines so the start is the same point as the other line stop. Great video and very easy to follow. Thank you.
Hey Jay, Your clear and fundamental instruction sets you apart from most makers. Well done. You help all of us understand the details and activities involved in using such a new technology. Thank you. You are an educator and passionate advocate on a par with This Old (F*!%#ng) Tony [according to AvE, not me]. Please keep 'em coming! Your solid Michigan contingent, /p/.
I cut 1" holes in my spoilboard along the x and y axis's and glued in hardwood blanks. Then I drilled 1/4 holes in those blanks. I simply put 1/4 bits in the holes and push my workpiece up against them, hold it down and pull the bits out. Poormans pop up pins if you will. I cut a lot of 4x8 sheets though so the reference pins are really nice.
now this is a real question, if you marked a grid on your wood of the limits then how could you flatten the entire waste board? if you ever wanted to do a big sign in segments or whatever its called then the sign would be siting on 2 different levels from the same board. im just getting started so this is what im imagining
Rocking a great video again, thanks! Keep them coming. Still waiting on video with new shop equipment looking to do what you do there here in Michigan thanks Jay!
I have the same CNC. Your rapid feedrate is faster than mine, how do I adjust that? When I randomly move across the table, in both x and y axis, mine has always seemed like it could move faster. And yes, I know about the one button that changes from fast to slow, but my "fast" was not as fast as yours.
Very clear and concise, Jay. Thanks. A question, though, to test my understanding: The grid lines represent the axis or centerline of the bit, thus, if a 1/2” bit were being used, it would be capable of cutting 1/4” outside of the grid and perhaps crashing into a clamp or hold-down that was positioned just outside of the grid. Is that correct or am I off-base on that assumption?
You can join the two line and get rid on the only rapid movement you have. You select the two lines you created at the point you want to connect them, right click then join them with line. And there it is, one line and no rapid move. Hope this helps.
Correct. I mentioned that in the article but was unsure if it would remain a constant vector path or if vcarve would then try to cut a bunch of small squares rather than staying on the created vector path.
Good video Jay. I have the same machine. Do you have the file for this cut on the spoilboard? If so any chance you would share it as I would like to put these lines on my machine top. Thanks, Ron
In a later video, I saw you had reference pins as a "fence" on your X-axis. I love that idea, as I have been refusing to make a semi or permanent fence that hinders the slots being used for clamps and fixtures. It appears they are just inside your max perimeter. I've searched and can't seem to find any information about that little upgrade. Did you also make those for the Y axis? I had originally thought about doing something similar using dowels when I had my Shark, but was concerned the MDF may loosen up over time. Now that I have the AR8 PRO V5, I'm thinking that might be the best method. Any tips - pros & cons on the method? Thanks
I just purchased an AR8 and found your video extremely informative. When I followed everything step by step and ran the file, I got a x+ soft limit error. I'm not sure why I'm getting that error, but any advice you may have would be appreciated.
More related to the matter, I'd love to carve a subtle grid into my desktop surface so I can neatly align everything to a grid! I hate when my keyboard and monitor are not 100% parallel to one another.
I’m looking into getting a CNC machine but I’m not sure what to get. Somewhere between $1500-$2500 range. Of course I want it as big as possible. Do you have any suggestions? What do you think of the X-Carve?
Ok, I'm not sure if others mentioned this but this is a super high detail machine... Dude, brah... why did you scribble them numbers in the boards when you could have cut/laser etched them on. =D
The moment I see someone making a very sophisticated waste board I know it's not a waste board........it needs to be sacrificial to allow milling through into the top surface and facing off frequently and then replace when it gets too thin...........gluing down some MDF would probably be a quick and easy fix......can't see the need for a Tee slot table when it's never going to be used to hold down anything for fear of gouging into it.
Jay, I didn't know you did CNC videos! I am so pumped! Your channel is what inspired me to get into woodworking 5 years ago. I just started getting into CNC routing so I am excited to watch more of your videos! Thanks for everything! P.S. I played you in chess a while back! You dominated me. One of these days I need a rematch. I have built my bullet and blitz up to the 1200-1300 range so I might be able to at least give you a slight challenge lol.
Nice video Jay. Love the CNC stuff. I'm not very familiar with VCarve but the extra time on the slow cut program is a software thing. The slow cut toolpath looks like you are set to only cut in one direction (conventional) which creates all of the unnecessary rapiding. With your fast cut program you are creating some climb cut toolpaths with geometry. Is there a software setting to allow both directions of cut to be created automatically? There might also be software setting for how the software priorities the cuts, look for the word "zig-zag". Generally a few short rapids is faster than "double cutting" some parts of the grid because the rapid speed is so much faster than the feedrate (with a few other variables coming into play obviously). It is also not a bad idea to surface both faces of the spoilboard that way you can get rid of the factory surface on both faces. Annyway, enough rambling for one comment. Love the home gamer CNC content. I'm a pro and always wanted one for my garage shop to play with on the weekends. Keep it up!
@David Penley Climb cutting still applies with 100% tool burial. Climb cutting refers to the cut (or feed) direction be the same as the rotation of the spindle. If you are cutting a thru pocket in which the tool is 100% buried it can be important to climb cut the walls of the pocket for best surface finish (depending on material, tolerances, etc). In the "fast" version of Jay's program all of the outside lines have been double cut. Adaptive toolpaths don't necessarily optimize for travel speed. Adaptive toolpaths optimize for constant tool load. Constant tool load gives better surface finish, better tool life, smoother machine motion, and often (not always) faster toolpaths.
@David Penley "Thru pocket" is not referring to a toolpath type. I am referring to a feature such as a large ring with the thru pocket being the hole in the centre. The centre pocket can be cut using a number of different toolpaths: pocket, profile, contour, centerline, chain, etc. It really depends on what your software calls that operation and which button you feel like clicking on that particular day. I'm using Mastercam and eCabinets for programming. So I would use a contour in mastercam or a pocket in ecabinets. The complexity of the part determines which software I use. In the end chances are it's all g01, g02, and g03 anyway lol. Keep the chips in the air.
One thing I struggle with on the Axiom is the spindle, I don't what brand it is and the quality of it. It looks like a generic Chinese spindle and that is a immediate no go for me as a buyer. Do you happen to know the bard, quality and so on? Thanks!
