Colour Infrared Photography to Wow Your Audience! 

You're welcome and I hope you find it useful. I also don't think its the Mac software to blam for profiles not working. I think Adobe changed the way the profiles work in their software.

Although digital cameras have IR cut filters covering the sensors, these aren't 100% effective and will allow some IR light through. Some cameras also have a weak filter. You can test yours by looking at the end of a TV remote on the back of the camera. If you see the bulb light up when you press a button on the remote, you are seeing IR light. Try testing your phone as well as that might capture IR light. Using an IR filter on any regular digital camera will slow the shutter speed so you will end up needing a tripod in most cases. You will also find that you can't use strong IR filters on a camera that hasn't been converted. A 665nm filter is probably a good one to try. If you go beyond 720nm you might not see an IR effect and the shutter speed will shoot up. I hope this helps.

THanks. I will do a video about this but it won't really use Affinity Photo or Photoshop because I don't use them for my processing. Most of my work is done using Plugins as it's far easier and often produces much better results.

Thanks. I'll add something to my list. As for my newsletter, try this page lenscraft.co.uk/lenscraft-photography-blog/photography-newsletter/. It's the archive so as well as signing up you can see some of the previous editions.

@@RobinWhalley thank you Robin

@@RobinWhalley subscribed

Thank you. I do have it on my list to do more infrared processing videos. Time is the enemy at the moment though. I'll see what I can do.

Thank you. No pressure, @@RobinWhalley

Thank you. I will add it to my list.

Glad it was helpful. Thank you.

Thanks. I'll see what I can do but I don't know about the post processing in Affinity Photo. I tend to use plugins for IR.

Thanks. I'm asked for this this quite frequently and always have the same question - what is it that you want to see when you say IR processing? If you can give me some ideas, I may be able to create a video; otherwise, I'm just trying to guess. Thanks

@@RobinWhalley Robin, you are selling yourself short! As the master of Affinity photo, anything you put out there would be immensely helpful. When I say IR processing, I mean starting with a photo shot with a camera converted to IR and going through your workflow. Starting with the white balance and going through common adjustments you would make would be amazing for us struggling photographers just getting into IR photography. Please help! Your biggest fan from Atlanta...

Thank for letting me know.

Thank you. It’s great to have helped.

I'm sorry, I don't have a camera converted with such a strong filter and I'm not in a position to take any images with one at present.

Thank you. Yes, I still hope to do a B&W infrared video but I will probably wait until summer when more people are likely to be interested.

I can imagine you will be able to achieve some great shots with that. I took a little micro 43 GX1 with a 720nm conversion to Death Valley once. It performed amazingly well with all that light.

You are so welcome. Thank you

Thank you. I'm pleased you liked it and I hope it helps your friend.

Thanks. It's on the list.

My pleasure! I hope that you find it useful.

You're welcome

Thanks. To answer your question, no that isn't what I was trying to show in the video. Both Lightroom and Adobe Camera RAW are limited by how much we can move the sliders and it's not enough to correct IR images. Camera profiles get around this for us by setting a false white point that allows sufficient range in the sliders. What I did in the video was process the image initially. I then converted it to a Smart Object so that when the Adobe Camera RAW filter is applied a to the Smart Object it resets the white balance sliders to the centre. You can then move the over to the left to get more range. It's just an easy solution for someone who doesn't want to mess around creating or finding camera profiles.

thank you. I noticed in that video and new one for BW that you used dxo pure raw. again, when do you process the color profile in raw : LRC or dxo,... ? the very first steps of your workflow are "missing" in your video and that's white balance part is critical if you want to convert a pink 665nm raw to a blue one with orange sky. This is where Tonee in CLIR made ana amazing job, including color swap directly in raw in LRC. But i am looking for a simplified method as you use.

I have several approaches for post-processing and it really depends on what I want to achieve. I'll work some of these up into a video or perhaps a couple of videos. In terms of digital IR I tend to shoot as I would a digital camera and the same goes for focusing. That said, I've never had a DSLR converted and believe some of those will need to have the lens recalibrated for the reason you mention. With the likes of the Fuji and Micro 43 cameras it's on sensor focusing so no lens calibration required. Do be careful though if you are thinking of converting an X-Pro 2. Almost all my Fuji lenses suffer from hot spots. The 18-135 is the only exception so I use that most of the time with the XT2. The Olympus and Panasonic lenses seem much better although some aren't perfect. I think Life Pixel has a list of hot spot prone lenses on their website. It would be worth checking.

@@RobinWhalley Thanks for the additional information and opinions, Robin. It all makes sense and your point about the Fuji lens is well made and noted. I have kept a number of my old Olympus Zuiko lenses (24mm f2.8, 28mm f2, 50mm f3.5 Macro, 55mm f2, 85mm f2, 135mm f2.8 and 200mm f4) and a Sigma 600mm f8 mirror lens that I can couple to my cameras with a Metabones Speed Booster and make use of focus peaking. All produce good results when used on my Fuji cameras (the wide lenses are only average, to be honest). I'll look forward to your follow up videos on this topic, as well as any others subjects you cover, and will also do some more research before committing to paying to convert the X-Pro2. Thanks again, Kirk

B&W processing please

Glad it was helpful. Thank you.

Using wider apertures helps reduce the "hot spot". A lens hood also helps.

Thank you. It's on my list.