Great video. I was looking to solve a different issue with a Honda Pilot but your video really helped me understand the issue. It was helpful to see you slide the cv bearings out of the bucket and even just to hear you state what the different components of the cv axle we’re like the bucket! Thanks
@@DIYGuysvideo honestly, I have no idea. I just thought that this is the only thing Tha made sense considering I only started having the problem just after downsizing my wheels
After this video I changed both axles on my CRV from what I read it is notorious for that vehicle , I only had 90,000 could not go past 60 to shaking was stupid it started out mild and got worse thank you so much I didn't know what to do, balanced all the tires changed all the tires rotated all the tires nothing helped night and day after changing the axles thank you thank you thank you
Great DIY. Thanks a bunch. Am actually going through this problem with my 2006 S with 155k on it. Was tracked heavily with KWV3. Switched back to OEM because I dropped a wheel at the track and blew one of the KW. Was going to buy OEM but am going to try the swap. If that doesn't work I'll by OEM. Keep the videos coming. They're great👍🏽
@DIYGuys first off i'm beyond thankful that i came across your videos! and I am even more grateful someone with another S2000 is making repair/diagnosis videos, and making damn good ones too! Your Half shaft spacer video saved my life when my S started to get that famous vibration not long after being lowered. I've got a question about some more vibration. As of the last month it seems to have this vibration, not a violent vibration, but definitely noticeable. But it seems to come on like almost exactly right at 35-36 mph and will then smooth back out over 40. Have you or anyone who reads this, have this happen before? Sometimes it will feel like it vibrates again around 65-70 but if i give it gas it feels like it smooths back out again.
I'm having the same issue with my h swapped ek civic. I am having to have to replace my axylus every year. But this video has definitely given me some idea of what to look for
Rewatched. At one point stated "for some unknown reason drivers side wears more" (paraphrased). Reason is direction of rotation of propshaft. Its like how drill rips out of hands when bit catches on something. Torque applied opposite direction of force applied. Propshaft torque forces one wheel harder into ground, tries to lift other side. If only drove in reverse, wear would be more on passenger side.
Vibrations actually comes more often from the passenger's side, as that (right) side has longer shaft between outer and inner CV joint and wears down more intensively than diver's side thereof. This is the case with Acura TSX (Accord CL).
With the S2000 it’s always the driver side that wears faster. Why would a longer shaft wear more intensely? A longer shaft puts less stress on the joints because they are operating at less of an angle.
I have the same problem with my hyundai accent. The inner cv joint has a big play and the noise was really annoying. I keep on searching how it fix hopefuly this video could help me. Thanks a lot, Sir.
Nice video. I never had a vibration issue even after using 3 different coilovers of various ride heights over the years. But I guess someday I may have to a CV bucket swap at some point.
My ap2 has around 144 right now. I was driving at 70 and the vibration keeps getting worst as speed rises. The other thing I hear is common is unbalanced tires or bent rims. If anything, I'll check those before changing my axles. But you mentioned your cr is at 140k so maybe mines are going out too
Experienced this after installing air suspension, even had to recondition my alternator...regret the install now. I'm going to try to just grease and see what happens because the sound comes and goes.
Thanks, i have knocking which from the look of it could be in the bucket area that goes into the inner half shaft bearing. The cv shaft from wheel to bearing moves up down left and right So I'm considering a kit to change the 3 bearings and bucket out. Hope it's not thev half shaft bearing (that doesn't seem to be moving which gives me hope)
Good to know. Even after swapping out the stock AP2 suspension > CR suspension > CR w/ Swift lowering springs > Fortune Auto coilovers, I still haven't felt this vibration yet in acceleration. I guess I'm lucky, but at 112,000 miles, my car may have this issue soon.
same thing happened on my TSX after lowering it, but bc its FWD its the passenger side inner joint that needed replacing. Cant switch the buckets on FWD because one side is female and other side is a male. I used a new oem bucket for my repair and that was 6yrs ago. The wheel vibrations are back and wheel balance didn't fix anything. I suppose you can also rebuild that bucket with a junk yard oem axle from a same model car that wasn't lowered?
Did you feel the vibration in the steering wheel? I am chasing some vibrations, which start at 120 kph in my rwd sierra. Its also lowered and I am suspecting the driveshaft(s) after renewing almost everything at the front.
Change the front struts on my 03 LeSabre which made it right almost 3 inches higher in the front now every time I accelerate especially going up a hill my steering wheel shakes does this sound familiar to other people?
hello there. i have this problem in my civic es 2004. i found an axel to replace. but it not have tripod 3 bearings. can i use my exiting bearings for that? is that a problem?
@@DIYGuysvideo ,, I have a 97 Honda Inspire 5 cylinder that clunks loud when moving from park or reverse . Original engine, and transmission changes out beautiful. It doesn't clunks while driving. Mounts are good according to the alignment tech. Mechanic said it is a bad tripod bearings. Any input ? Thanks
Curious, did you have any clunking sound? My wife has a mini. When I grab the shaft near the differential and shake it, I can simulate the clunking heard while driving.
When I bought my car, it had 1 oem axle (driver) and 1 after market axle (passenger), it was causing vibrations.. After I swapped both with after market axles, it caused more vibrations from 40-50 mph under hard acceleration.. I just installed the half shaft spacer and that didn’t work. Someone on s2ki said it won’t work on after market Axles and it’s only meant for OEM axles. I’m going to install used OEM axles and use the spacers. First I’m going to check the differential bushings.
Yeah aftermarket axles are mostly junk so I’d go used OEM for sure. You can inspect the state of the axle buckets before you put them on the car and swap if necessary
DIYGuys I’m using Duralast from Autozone! Someone posted it on S2000 Enthusiasts yesterday, ppl commented, “it vibrates automatically.” Some ppl have luck but it’s a hit or miss I guess..
I've got the same problem on my audi a6 quattro. Changing axles every 6 months or so, still inner cv joint fails. Dont have any clue why its happening...
I have an A5 think have the same issue it has taken me almost 1 year to find . Now the noise is bad and I get vibration when taking off . Noise at low speeds . Steering vibration when turning at low speeds at a car park etc
i have a vibration only in 5th or 6th gear and under 2000 rpm and full throttle? could that be inner joints or something else. If I shift late at 2500 rpm car just pulls hard and does not vibrate.
I Hit a pothole about 6 months back. Can that damage this CV Joint you are talking about? It's slowly started making a noise about a month later. Now I am going to replace it in a few days. Just wondering what kind of noise it would make... I know the Clunk clunk or clack clack when turning on a bad axle... but this noise is different
I have had a Subaru forester 1997 (automatic) from new (approx. 70,000 miles on the clock), that has been great for all the years with very little to do other than annual services. However, recently I have had a lot of vibration & shuddering on the wheels when making tight turns (left or right) but never on the straight. It is difficult to identify which wheels the noise or shudder comes from and I don't feel much through the steering wheel. I have had all differentials replace that has reduced the frequency but not eliminated the problem. We hope it isn't the automatic gear box but has anyone got any ideas what to do next.
Would you suggest regreasing the inner CV buckets as a maintenance item to help improve the longevity of the current ones on my car? I dont have any shakes and I'm not lowered. just didn't know if regreasing them would be a preventative maintenance thing I could do. Thoughts?
+Wesley Huss I'm not sure if it would be worth your time to be honest. Once the putting starts occurring the grease gets real dark from the shavings. Until then it seems to operate fine.
Quick question. All same symptoms of worn inner cv joint, but trying to figure out which one. One thing I noticed is that when I turn left while accelerating, pretty dang smooth. If I turn right while accelerating, it gets very bumpy with vibration right away. Would this suggest left or right inner cv? I figure the right side is maybe under a greater angle from body roll, but left inner is probably under more load from the acceleration?
The driver side is the one that wears first. When you turn right you compress the driver side, lowering the car and triggering the worn area of the bucket.
I have these vibrations as well and I planned to only replace the buckets and tripod bearings since the outer joints are fine but I can't seem to find the buckets themselves as a part.
They're both pretty much equally problematic and in need of replacement, really. And it's a Fiat Brava, btw, not a Honda. AND I'm in Greece, can't import stuff from the US. And it's kinda strange, because, apart from the PO's swap to 15" wheels (14" stock), everything else is stock. I'm pretty sure the damage was done because the aforementioned PO's wheels were extremely heavy 7j alloys and the car is 1.242cc, which probably stressed the transmission and caused the excess wear. I've got 15x6 now and it certainly relieved the vibrations but they're still there. Guess I'll have to either find used ones in good nick or swap the halfshafts entirely. Anyway, very nice video, thanks for putting it out there!
DIYGuys I think he means the AC sensor, which is the part connected to the throttle pedal that measures the % throttle on dbw cars. I had mine replaced at ~120k miles.
I swapped mine left to right to fix the vibration. I only drove maybe 50 "EASY"miles after I initially felt the first vibration......like I accelerated like a 10spd bike.. How long did u drive yours after the symptoms appeared?
How often do you see the tripod joints go bad before the CV buckets are worn? I'm working on an 05' Highlander and the passenger side tripod joint has 2 bearings that swivel just fine, but the 3rd one doesn't. It sits perfectly vertical and the bearing spins just fine, but doesn't swivel at all. On the drivers side, all 3 of the bearings swivel. Is this normal?
+ayowser01 This becomes a problem after the ride height is lowered after the groove is made. So technically is your car was always low this wouldn't be an issue since the groove would be made at that low height. The more time you spend at the current ride height and make that groove the worse it will be once the car is lowered.
The Honda service manual says you need to match the bearings to each race in the bucket, mark them during disassembly so they can be re-assembled back into the original bucket slot they were running in, is that important to do? You didn't seem to do that?
I’ve never matched the bearings to the buckets and it has never made a difference. I’ve also never seen it marked as significant in my research about the issue. Maybe it’s a precaution.
DIYGuys Thanks for the reply, have you ever had one of those harmonic balancers(rubber donut things on the shaft) fail and cause vibrations? Can you remove them if they come loose and carry on like normal?
Those rubber vibration dampers that are fitted in the middle of some Honda CV shafts, like this: www.civicforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=108669&d=1501482860
It's not only on acceleration. In a manual car if you don't put the clutch in when letting off the gas it will do the same thing because the motor will be slowing the car down so it puts stress on the axle also.
Same problem with my car.. However i am unable to find that whether its the driver side inner inner axle or the passenger side inner axle? Please help...
If you swap the cv bucket from driver to passenger, won't the passenger side be screwed up now? I feel like there's something I'm not getting...I think I'm going to try and swap them, so I hope you can reply!
@@DIYGuysvideo The vibration only happens around 60 mph under acceleration. If I left off the gas or accelerate under 60 the vibration doesnt seem to be there. Do you think this still might be a cv bucket issue?
My car have a clicking sound when I accelerate hard example from a full stop at a traffic light and if I am to press hard on the gas the will be a clicking sound. Is the problem this CV joint thing?
Ok, do you have the video what type of viberatiin. Mine kinda grinding sound start at 20 mile in hour a d goes higher. Checked the bearing nothing wrong, i can feel sound on my feet when im driving. Cx9 2011 has 92k
@@DIYGuysvideo no its like grinding and really bother i know the right bearing need change but do you think make nose that look from under the car where the brake and gas pedal are?
Right wheel on my car vibrates when accelerating straight and also when turning right, pretty much (noises and rattling became louder with speed). At whatever speed, slight movement to the left and all the noises and vibration goes away 100%. My outer CV joint is a bit worn but there is only very small clack only with sharp, right, full turn. What could be the problem? Bearing, CV axle joints, or both?
Haha :), no its Peugeot 309 diesel but your video was very helpful. So you say that my inner joint is bad (because I wrote that my outer clacks a bit)?
@@milojakulovic9335 driver side cv axle 100% man. I had the exact same problem i would get vibrations when accelerating and it would be 10x worse when turning right but left turns was perfectly smooth and normal. Even going straight i would get it but if i barely would turn left it would go away. Also when turning right and the vibration would start if i would let off the gas and just coast around the right corner it would go away. Mine didn't make much noise but the vibration was so bad it was basically unsafe to drive. Hope this helps you man.
Hi i have a knocking noise in inner cv axle.. did not open yet, but when i move it back and forth i can hear the sound. I know its a normal play but the sound? Does it need greasing or spacer?
DIYGuys , its not a s2000 its a mazda 5... there is play when i move it.. and you can hear the knocking sound on road on and off.. checked suspensions and bushing it was ll fine. But when i moved the axle thats when i hear the knocking sound
DIYGuys yeah the inner axle has play when i move the bucket but not the shaft.. I have a slight bent whee I found out recently im going to fix the wheel this weekend and see if the problem goes away. If not for sure I have this problem. All hondas axles go i had an Ap2 s2000. They are not well built imo. Had to change rear bearings, engine mounts kept going because they are located right beside the exhaust manifold. Also soft top was 5k lol i mean its an ok car.. If your single its good :)
Why not just replace the whole thing, they are dirt cheap. And you have it that far apart it's just common sense to replace CV Axles when they get worn you're playing with the clock and it's not gonna work out. Taking them out isn't easy so what's the point of doing this????
CV axles aren’t dirt cheap? You buy used OEM axles you roll the dice. You buy new OEM axles for 700. Or you buy aftermarket axles that are junk out of the box.
@@DIYGuysvideo okay, point is they are cheaper than you'd think, a good quality one from Rock Auto by cardone or surtrak is about 60 bucks. I stand behind my point. Cardone is as good as you're gonna get reliability wise on those axles
From my research aftermarket axles for Honda S2000s have issues mainly because they are solid while OEM is hollow and much beefier. If you don’t have a Honda S2000 your mileage may vary (literally).
