Connect a Victron MPPT to a Lynx Distributor 

hey, and thanks! I understand what you are saying, my attention to detail usually agrees. Red is +, Black is -, same in USA. Good eye, the short piece of 2 AWG for the combined ground of the two MPPT is red. I did put black heat shrink on it to help distinguish it and I hope it is otherwise clear it is DC neg/ground based on what it is connected to. I have another use for 2 AWG red on a positive connection related to connecting the Ford Transit CCP to the 80A breaker for the 2 Orion-Tr units, so for 8" of wire, the only piece of 2 AWG black I would need, I didn't want to buy 2 colors and have unused black wire laying around.

great tip!

Better to not use ferrules at all when manual requires fine strand wire.

​@@snooblergenerally I would have to agree. I will say that the square crimp ferrel wire is a very snug fit and the contact patch is excellent.

Have fun!

Glad you like them!

Thanks. I need 2 for the number of items I am connecting to the system. You can get a solid idea on what all of them are in this video series.

Hi. Can you be more specific about a time stamp and what you are suggesting? I'm not following you here. thanks.

3:11 ish@@VanTransitions

@@UKsystemsGood catch. I agree, I missed that. It is best to have the 2 AWG LUG against the BUS BAR of the Lynx Distributor, then the ring terminal on top before the washers and nut. Thank you.

My MPPT is not far from the Lynx D at all, less than 2.5 ft. It was more for efficiency/upgrade capacity I suppose, plus a 6awg with ferrule fits perfectly in the slot. With my 2 solar arrays, 1 pair of 100W and 1 pair of 200W, and 2x MPPT of 100/30 I don't suppose I "need" 6awg.

The wire from the solar disconnect to the MPPT units is 10/2 ancor marine wire. There are no ring terminals used for the 10awg wires on either side of the solar disconnect.

If I didn't explain it anywhere else, I didn't want to buy black for this one little spot in the build so I bent the rules a bit for myself b/c the copper inside is the same, and I used black shrink at the lugs to identify the neg. I don't recommend it necessarily, but it did save me some money and when traced by an expert, easily identified as on the negative with maybe a facepalm for the color.

@@VanTransitions sorry i have satellite data so it lowers the thing to 360p and doesn't show many comments i thought you were maybe wiring in series

Thanks. I've been going back and forth on this as well. Another channel Explorist.life has some drawings with 60A. I have currently changed to 40A in place and on my drawing and no complaints from my Victron Dealer. And the spec sheet clearly says the max charge current is 30A, which makes 40A seem a lot more reasonable and it will still protect 6 AWG wire as well. I won't change my wire gauge here.

@@VanTransitions Yeah, Explorist.life just sent me his generic link to buy the parts. I did ask the logic behind the 60A fuse though... I'm on the same side as you though: The fuse should be there to protect the wire (awg6 will be fine) AND the device. The device part, not sure the logic behind putting the 60A fuse... Where did you find the 40A mega fuse? :)

I was able to find all my mega fuses on Amazon. Here is the 40A a.co/d/hLAQkG2

I think 40A is a better fit, as suggested below, but if you could not source that part for whatever reason, increase the wire gauge to match the 60A fuse (yes 6awg should be fine)

@@mattwalker534 this is exactly what I did in the end! Awg6 and a 60A fuse. 👍🏻

I will have a Dometic RTX 2000 AC in the furthest rear bay on the roof of my extended Transit. I have fused according to their documentation: an 80A megafuse in my Lynx Distributor. I will also power everything else with this Victron system (no propane). Eventually my build and videos will cover this in more detail. In my 2021, the Ford inverter is under the passenger seat, max 400W. Battery power isn't determined by the number of batteries, but the Ah (Amp hours). If you are doing 12V AC, you probably need 400Ah and 400W solar minimum, but you need to calculate your own electric needs. There are spreadsheets on the internet. Why not have shore power available or DC to DC charging while driving? Next video on Sunday speaks to the Victron Orion-Tr. What if it rains for 3 straight days? Options.

@@VanTransitions Our van use we'll be pet transportation so yes it alternator will be supplying power to the batteries to power the rear air conditioning, The only time solar will come into play will be as a backup for air conditioning if we break down As for shore connection my intended use is to plug in at home prior to a trip so that the refrigerator would be cold for pet insulin or other items.

I presume you have researched the Transit CCP, customer connection point?

@@VanTransitions yes I opted for the lines install with no controller, my first thought was to go with Webasto system but I lose the backup of breakdown AC.. The whole project is very flexible at this point since were a year out from receiving the van. The first couple of Builds I did on Fords page I was just going to buy a passenger van with seat delete, that was until I saw the measurements with Fords rear ac, it just took up to much room.

You can't run the rear AC from Ford without the vehicle running. Definitely take this time you have to research research research.

No. It is Ancor Marine 10/2 wire.

U cant use romex?

Romex is not recommended for van/RV installations. You want stranded wire.

Overall sound advice. As I explained, I had the wire so I used it with black heat shrink - and it's my system ultimately, so I know and that's what matters. If it were building this for someone else, yes, stick with the correct color at all times.