Join the epic journey of skills learning and van building with David to convert a 2021 Ford Transit cargo van into a camper van.
We'll cover everything involved in van building from tool tips and tricks, woodworking, metal working with 80/20 extruded aluminum, uponor plumbing fittings, electrical needs, and much more to inspire your van life build to help make your dreams come true.
Was hard to follow as you talked because camera was panned out making it hard to visually see as you worked. You explained things very well... but please zoom in closer for your next tutorial. Some of us NEED those visuals.
I think you mean this part a.co/d/hs25Dfj and it was something like this, not this exact one, and I cut off the female end so I could have access to the wires (copper).
Hey, this is an excellent video very well explained, on a very important subject. Thank you very much. I am really surprised thaqt you do not yer have tens of thoousands or hundreds of thousands of views and I hope that you get those. One other point I would like to make is that I would -prefer your video to start at time 1:33, when you turn your attention to us and start explaining. I am not a gfreat fan of the "Hey, I'll be with you in a minute" Keeping your guests waiting does not make the clip more interesting, but it almost makes you sound arrogant and "superior" which I am sure is not the case but, well, that's how it might appear. Wishing you the very best
It looks like you could have just flipped the drawer glide supports over without removing them. You’d have had to unload and reload the glide nuts as you had it standing proud of the uprights, but much easier.
Perhaps so, but when you're in the moment, you have to use what your brain gives you, haha! Sometimes there is only 1 good way, sometimes there are several ways.
Two questions: Why did you not power the Cerbo gGX from the Aux ports on the Lynx BMS? Why did you use a fused busbar access pount for the MultiPlus case ground, instead of using the far end of the Lynx Connect?
You are referring to section 5.4.8 here www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Lynx_Smart_BMS/109358-Lynx_Smart_BMS-pdf-en.pdf which is perfectly fine. I didn't feel like cutting the ring terminals off, lazy I guess, haha! The MPII case ground is on the neg bus middle post of the Lynx Distributor. It is not one of the 4 fused posts on that bus.
The only thing I'd be worried about when the glands are facing forward is more wind resistance/possible noise from the flatter edge facing forward, although I think you're right as to it being equally waterproof in either direction.
In my case they are below the plane of the top of all my solar panels. It doesn't mean wind doesn't get to them, but I don't hear them at all. I do hear a noise created by the dynamics of sound resonance with the rear wheels between 63-71 mph. Once I put Thinsulate and heavy mass vinyl over the rear wheel wells, and get my walls up, I'll have a relatively quiet ride.
Thank you so much for such a clear and uncluttered tutorial. Every other video I've watched had so much extraneous information that had nothing to do with dimmers or lights. This is the first video that actually explained what to do. I'm very familiar with wiring (not trained!) But this project had me stumped...connecting 2 wires to 3! Your video helped me get my lighting done. THANK YOU! Subscribed! 😁
On a Ford transit you all ready have factory pre drilled holes on top of the van to run wires. Four in the front and four in the back. They are covered with little round painted thin rubbery stickers. No need to drill holes. I can see them in your video.
This is true, those holes are there, however, there is no flat surface on the roof around those holes to place the wire gland itself, not of this style anyway.
Yes, that is an option. Please be mindful you are near the water channels on the roof and you don't want to disrupt that flow. Or, folks like Far Out Ride made a grommet special made for those holes, $50 last I checked so kind of expensive in my opinion.
I'm sorry I disagree. I mean, if you're stacking 3/4" to 1" of washers so the motor clears the wire I'd say that's unsafe. If you have a regular/standard seat, not the 10-way powered seat, you can install the Scopema, but I'd still be impressed if you could do it without modification to the plastic. Can you reference how you did this without cutting required? Keep in mind RU-vid won't let you paste a link in your comment so get creative.
Hello !! Thanks for do this type of video. I will need an A/C for my girls( 3 seats rear bench) I know you installed an RTX 2000 but now the have available new models. Nomatic X2 or X3 (12v, 24v and 48v) My question is because you experience would you buy again the RTX 2000 over the X2 or X3? Thanks in advance!
Not in what you see here. I may add one in the future, and it's not a bad idea in case someone wants to try to mess with your electric system by accessing the exterior outlet.
Awesome video! I bought a Ford Transit Trail EXT and it came with the Maxx Air Van Deluxe 7500. It is a poor installation from the factory and I need to remove it and put it back like you did. My question is ...the Vent adapter that you use is going to be the same for the front of the van? I know you put the fan on the back but the transit came with the fan on top of the crew bench. Do you think it is the same or I need to buy a different one for the front of the van? 🤔 Thanks !!!
To get the correct roof adapter, DIYVan has offerings for different locations on the roof. Select the one which best fits your location. I'm sure they can help you get the correct one.
@@VanTransitionsohh good to know. You said that you have an RTX2000 A/C. Can you use it while the van is running or only with the battery bank? I asked you because I will install a 3 seats bench for my girls because I think the front A/C is not strong enought to get to the rear bench.
With a Scopema swivel on a 10-way powered seat, as you can see in the video, you must lift the seat with risers to clear the seat motor, and it still requires the plastic to be trimmed. I have decided using risers is dangerous and not worth the risk. In the follow-up video I use an Amazing Auto swivel. It is thicker, clears the motor with no issue and you would still have to trim the plastic, though not as much. I have heard in non-powered seats, the plastic trim is much smaller so perhaps trimming is not needed on those? I do not know.
Found my way here to see how the gland is installed. Thanks! BTW, there's no current going through the wires since they aren't connected. There is a voltage (potential) though. So you do not want to complete the circuit accidentally and get a shock.
You're welcome. I left everything disconnected until the core electric system was installed in the van. Up to this point it had not been installed. I'm a bit behind on new content having been on a few trips mid build. Once the core system, including the solar disconnect switch, was in place between the panels and the MPPTs, I made the M4 connections on the roof. If the M4 connections were plugged in on the roof, there was a potential for shock if the panels weren't fully covered blocking the sun. Once the internal wires were connected to the solar disconnect, this was no longer a worry.
You can also see I covered the ends of the wires inside the van as an additional level of safety to prevent the copper pos and neg wires from touching each other.
So.. question.. why 4/0 wire? I am looking at runnint 2AWG from my 48v/3000 to my lynx distributor, and 2AWG from that to the battery shunt, then to the battery system, which is 1 48v 16s battery (but will be a 2nd one soon). The battery cells are LEV60, able to handle a max of 600a. But I am only using it to power a couple of computers and a fan or room ceramic heater. So at most about 3000 watts at 120vac.. around 25amps total. So for whole house setups, I could see bigger wire, but for my setup since 2AWG can handle a bit over 100a, and I wont push more than about 30a total, I am hoping that is plenty of wire.
My video is based on running a 12V system. Wire size requirements will be different if you are running 48V. If you want to ensure you are on the right path, please engage your Victron dealer or a certified electrician.
Sorry but you are wrong here. Literally just used 4/0 for chassis ground (per recommendation if using the same for loads) and it fit fine in the Multiplus II
The wire from the solar disconnect to the MPPT units is 10/2 ancor marine wire. There are no ring terminals used for the 10awg wires on either side of the solar disconnect.
10/3 refers to 10awg wire, 3 of them in the combined outer sheath. In the USA, this is hot, neutral, ground for 120V AC. 10/2 would contain 2 x 10awg wires, positive and negative, usually in a DC scenario.
@@VanTransitions tried to comment but it seems it was removed, maybe because I linked to Lowe’s. At any rate, 10/2 in America is most definitely 3 wires. Neutral, hot, and ground. This can be easily googled and is probably known by anyone before they even step foot in electrician school.
RU-vid removes links from commenters by default, not within my control, part of their spam prevention I believe. Here is some 12/2 I use for some of my 12V DC loads. It is definitely 2 wire of 12awg within the same sheath. www.amazon.com/dp/B000NUYBU2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_QM9XP37H7VK89FSADRDT and here is some 12/3 www.amazon.com/dp/B000NV2AVS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_493MDXT1YJ1VXRN6SSH7
You may be thinking of romex? Which contains solid wires and the additional bare copper for ground. Romex is NOT recommended in a van (which is a moving earthquake), only stranded.
@@VanTransitions after a little more googling, it seems marine grade wiring is different than residental. residental romex 12/2 includes a ground, but your ancor marine wire does not. interesting indeed.
I am building a system and was using a 6awg wire to ground the multiplus case as well; looks like that needs to change. However, now I'm a little more confused. What I am building is a small system for my home, so I also had a ground wire (6 AWG) connected to the negative terminal of my bus bar that goes to the physical ground of my home (basement floor). Is this incorrect?
In my van based system, my chassis ground is 4/0 matching the largest wires in my system. 6awg seems small, but I don't know the size of your system and I'm not an electrical engineer. If your components are Victron, work with your distributor, or consult an electrician.
Have you tried to make your own angle brackets by cutting the 80/20 with 45-degree ends? You can order them and have the pilot holes predrilled, but it would be great to make your own out of scrap cut offs? I have been looking for a way to drill the pilot holes at 45-degrees.
This level of engineering is not for me. The people at 8020 have the solution perfected and for the number of 45 degree angles I will use, I'm happy to buy them pre-fab. Best of luck!
Try self tapping screws. Even normal screws can be used without preparation in aluminium, but it is not as easy. It is fast (when you use an electric screwdriver), and there is no dirt at all. You just have to check the the screw and use a normal steel nut if there is aluminum on the threads.
I would personally not allow my 4AWG battery 2 battery terminal wire to be straight as yours is. I would prefer a slight arc in the cables to allow some movement and accommodate vibrations etc. Yours are basically solid hard wire from RTC to RTC which could cause them to work loose over time. A slight curve would let them ebb and flow at the cable and not just tug of war on the RTCs. Just my 2cents. Cheers
Hi. The battery to battery cable is 4/0 (4 ought). At that short length there is virtually no flex at all in the wire. My batteries are also locked down and do not move in any direction.
Exactly my point…”there is no flex at all in the wire”, therefore the cable and terminal lugs are constantly under stress with each other and will vibrate loose over time, UNLESS your batteries are 100% rigidly fixed to one another. I’m not confident this can ever be the case in a mobile scenario. A slight bend will relieve this inherent stress. You’re fine in an off grid fixed setup…but not in a mobile application.
While a well put together system should not have this problem in general, yes, a van is a moving earthquake, and therefore ANY person having a house system in their van should have a regularly scheduled interval to check on all wiring and bolts to ensure healthy, tight, clean connections.
Can you show me how to have a 2 way circuit, control switch . So i can control the lights from the dash and from the vans rear doors as needed or used , please. Thank you
Hi. I am not building any dual switch circuits in my van, at least I don't think I will be. So, while I'd rather not send you to another channel, this Explorist.Life video is exactly what you need: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WRQuVMFlric.html
Never mix your +/- color codes...this will bite you in the arse one day. If you must...spiral electricians tape on your +red just to remind yourself...temporary or not!
Overall sound advice. As I explained, I had the wire so I used it with black heat shrink - and it's my system ultimately, so I know and that's what matters. If it were building this for someone else, yes, stick with the correct color at all times.
Hello sir, I found this helpful...thank you. What I was wondering is if these are able to be utilised in a TWO WAY Switch circuit...? I believe that these come as a SPDT type...
Great video, I do have the powered seats as well and installed those. One comment though, with dual batteries, the cable is a little more tight but doable if you cut open a bit more the barrey plastic cover. I am not that impressed with all the trouble to raise it, move forward for the back to clear the door, then back it a bit, then trun half way then forward again to clear the middle console etc. That been said, it's doing the job and I haven't test the others so it could be a similar challenge.
Thank you. I suppose that's what we have to deal with having the powered seats. Basic seats are far easier and can use a much more slim swivel. Glad you got it working.
Sure, a drop of automatic trans fluid would work great, but then all your metal flakes won't come out as they will be held in by the liquid. Suggestions on that aspect?
@@VanTransitionsI don't like using tapping fluid because of the mess it creates. If I'm tapping steel - sure. Aluminum is softer, I'm sure the tap would be fine. I do however clear the shavings by rotation the tap half a turn counter clockwise every second turn or so. I've been using a drill for tapping for years. Slow speed. Low clutch setting. Letting the tap guide the angle.
Does the case ground from Multiplus attach to the RV frame? If I have a 24V Multiplus, will the ground interfere with the existing trailer/camper 12V LED factory lights (each individual 12V light is grounded to frame also)?
For me the MP II is grounded to the Lynx Distributor which grounds the entire system to the van chassis. You can see that here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-myLpukMa35E.html 24V and 12V don't play well together without voltage conversion so you will need to know how your trailer/camper existing 12V lights and electric system are configured to know if there will be any interference, especially if both are grounded to the same chassis.
