Connecting a Ring Pro Video Doorbell to the electronic chime in a Nutone intercom 

could I email you questions

can you please please put the video for Ring Video doorbell 3 Plus to connect the M&S System MC350A Master what kind of Relay & Transformer do i need to make it work if you want you can Email me @ maheshdpatel@aol.com Thank you

That's great!

Corgitronics Can you email the instructions on how to install my ring pro to my nutone IM3303

That's great!

I’m having trouble trying to figure out on how to wire my ring pro to my nutone can you please explain it on a dumb down version lol thanks

Congratulations! I'm glad it's working, and thank you for the feedback.

The wiring should be sufficient for this to work. Check the health status of your Ring Pro, and for any updates. About a year ago they pushed an update to the Ring Pro that mostly disabled the ability to trigger the relay, and I had to call support and walk through everything and then they manually pushed an update that fixed it. You might check out my recent video on relays for getting the Ring to work, as there are some differences between relays. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xmeYzodpkfU.html If you have a multimeter that can measure AC current, connect it into the circuit and see how much current is flowing when it triggers the relay at the end of the ring cycle.

It looks like this approach will work for the Nest Hello. Their documentation is a bit vague, but it looks like a similar setup. They provide a doorbell connector device that you will probably need to connect up in the same way that I show connecting the Ring Power Kit.

I'm not sure that I'd give 24 Volts to the Nutone, you may be able to power the RingPro off of one of the NutTone's transformers. It kind of depends on the intercom model. Also, I'm not sure which of the two transformers would be the best to use... might connect an Amp meter (DMM set to Amps), and see how much power the intercom is using from each transformer. You could replace one of the existing 16 V transformers with a transformer that has a higer VA rating but is still 16 V. Something like this 50VA unit: www.amazon.com/PWS-1650-Supply-Adapter-Transformer-terminals/dp/B06XRM9QZ3/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=16+volt+transformer&qid=1551937937&s=gateway&sr=8-8 Or this 75 VA industrial beast www.amazon.com/Siemens-MT0075C-Industrial-Transformer-Secondary/dp/B0052MY318/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=16+volt+transformer+75VA&qid=1551937986&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0

@@Corgitronics Thanks for the help. I ended up just disconnecting the chimes in my NuTone intercom system and wiring the ring directly to the installed 16V transformer. The Ring Doorbell Pro rings through the Ring Chime. I like your solution, but did not have room behind the intercom to fit the relay and I did not want an external transformer because my NuTone control panel is on the wall in the kitchen. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video.

Not sure if there will be enough room. If it's an exterior wall then it may be filled with insulation. Also there's the issue of whether there's AC power, as usually the intercom's power transformers are mounted somewhere else, often near the main electrical panel. Since this particular intercom uses two big transformers, rumor has it that you can tap into one of those to power the RingPro.

Yes, it should work using those wires. It will have more voltage drop, but if you are using a 24V transformer (with at least 30VA) the RingPro should still get enough power. I am currently powering my RingPro with a 16V transformer and a 60 foot run of standard 2 conductor bell wire (the usual brown cable with red and white wires in it).

Not really. As you can see in the video the RingPro only has the two connections. It triggers the chime by briefly shorting out the connection. And, it's unlikely that the NuTone will be able to supply enough power to run the RingPro

That happened to me for a while in September. It turns out that Ring pushed a software update that had a bug in it causing the unit to not trigger the bell at the end of its cycle. I had to call Ring support and work with them a bit, they had to get a technician to manually push an update to my unit.

This connects to the door chime terminals (if you have the chime module) in the master intercom panel and should not affect the door intercom or other functions.

I don't quite understand the question. There aren't any changes involved to the software or settings on the RingPro. The relay just replaces the mechanical/solenoid doorbell, and provides a contact output to trigger an electronic chime.

The question is: In the Ring App, under "Doorbell Kit Settings", with house mechanical chime removed from the circuit and the 24VAC relay in parallel with "Ring Power Pro Kit 2", is the App set to "Mechanical", "Digital" od "None"?

Mine is set to mechanical.

The relay isolates the 24VAC from the intercom. I have a follow up video that goes into more detail about the relay and its connections: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hd68roYUDng.html

Yes, the master is the one with the radio in it. At 15:56 you can see the two terminals that I connected to. Your system probably has the doorbell button connected to those same terminals, as mine did.

I ended up using 3 strands of the 22 gauge wire to each terminal and it worked fine. Device health shows good on the Ring app. I'm powering the Ring from one of the Nutone's 16V 30VA transformers.

@@Loach402 does your nutone chime work with the ring?

I'm not sure the Ring Video doorbell 1 can trigger the chime. But, it can be powered by an external AC transformer: support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/205180710-How-to-Connect-Your-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Directly-to-a-Low-Voltage-Transformer-Without-a-Pre-existing-Doorbell- In reading that article, it looks like you need a 25 Ohm wire-wound resistor (see their link), and you might be able to connect that across the relay that I show in the video. Basically, just replace the "power kit" with the 25 Ohm resistor. It needs to be a high power resistor, they specify a 50 Watt resistor.

@@Corgitronics Thank you for your quick reply!!! I thought the relay could act like a mechanical chime so I was going to wire the relay just like how one would do for the mechanical chime. Of course I would not need to use the diode. If the relay load is not high enough, I might need the 25 ohm resistor?

@@benc.7419 You will almost certainly need the resistor, and do not use the diode.

@@Corgitronics Got it. I will update once I finish my installation. Thanks again!

@@Corgitronics I installed 25 ohm resistor in parallel with the relay and it works! I tried using one of the two Nutone transformers and ~16 VAC didn't trigger the relay switch although it was enough to power up the Ring Door Bell. I added 24VAC/40VA transformer and everything works fine. Thanks for your help again!

Yes, see the chain of comments below from Ben C. and how he got it working with his IM-3303.

The setup is the same for each. You will need 2 relays, and separate transformers to power each Ring Pro, or one big transformer.

I already have a 24VAC/40VA transformer so no issues for power

Sorry the humming part was my mistake it was lose on the surface but once I screwed it to the surface all went perfect.

Adding the relay may solve this issue, but it sounds like a more complicated issue. I question whether the intercom's transformer has enough power (VA) to supply the intercom and the RingPro when it triggers. The RingPro uses quite a bit more power during the ring cycle, connecting to WiFi, streaming the video, etc. Try the relay first, if that doesn't fully solve the issue then also power the RingPro from a separate transformer (as shown in my video).

Corgitronics I hadn’t even considered another transformer, great idea!! Just to be clear, I am working with just the ring, not the ring pro. Do you think the ring pro has a higher probability of working with the intercom system than the standard ring? I can pick one up, no biggie. And lastly, I will try the relay for sure, should the 24vac coil you linked work fine although the transformer is 16vac? Thanks again, I really appreciate your time!!!

@@4E-P I'm really not familiar with the regular Ring doorbell, as it didn't suit my needs. I specifically selected the RingPro for it's ability to drive my existing doorbell. The relay that I show works fine with an 18 V AC transformer, but not so well at 16 V... I should probably do another video on that. If you add a transformer, get one for at least 18V, if the regular Ring will handle that.

@@Corgitronics I'm curious how to tie in the chimes on all the remote locations of an m&s system. Obviously the intercomm will not work anymore but what about the existing chimes?

Did you do this? I just finished installing mine and was able to get it to work just like he said. It took a bit of studying the video because he zooms so far in that it's hard to tell what is connected where.

Yes, I just tested this relay, and it reliably closes (without buzzing) at 17 VAC www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NN5ABG2/

@@Corgitronics ..awesome thankyou....The Nutone IM-4406...has two 18v transformers. I believe I can actually tap into one as power source to Ring Pro and the other can run the chime...., while using your circuit...

​@@emccabe1964 That might work, since the IM-44-6 uses 72VA transformers. The Ring Pro needs 20VA (sporadically), so it could add too much load. When you connect the RingPro to the transformer, monitor the transformer's output voltage to see if it sags, particularly during the ring cycle. Once the Ring is up and running you can use the app to check the device health.

@@Corgitronics - what about eliminating the pro power pack as a jumper? Wouldn't that reduce the amps and or put it in series with the relay.....a little extra resistance?

@@Corgitronics ......ignore that last reply.....that wouldn't get me any power with the relay being closed.

I'm not familiar with the bypass kit. Ring's customer service is generally very good, you should contact them and ask for the Pro Power Kit. It might be the same, or nearly the same thing.

@@Corgitronics Hi , RING tell me that the BYPASS or the PRO POWER Kit are the Same , Reading the resistance on my BYPASS Module its 0 ohms , not sure what the Module does as it seems not to work , when the module is put across the relay the relay powers up "Click sound " sound but only 6v Volts on the Rind Pro so it does not fully power up. Does the power kit or the bypass kit have any active or passive component ?. Thank you for your time in the above reply. RS

Ramesh Sanghani hi Ramesh. I’m trying to work through the same thing here in the UK, where they only supply the ‘bypass’ kit. If you peel the sticker back slightly you’ll see the other connector that would make it the regular pro power kit. I haven’t had chance to set this up yet, but I have all the bits required and hoping to try in the next few days. I opened the ‘bypass’ kit/unit and there is definitely some electronic trickery in there. My guess is that by using the bypass mode, the current required to power a chime solenoid is prevented from passing through. So you will have to use the normal pro power port (again, just a guess). I’m hoping that the ability to chime and existing chime isn’t disabled in the firmware/software for EU/UK devices.

Ramesh Sanghani I’ve now verified that this solution works a treat, even with the UK system. You need to not use the bypass port on the pro power kit, and use the port that is shown in this video. Works perfectly! Thank you so much @Corgitronics!

Hmm, the Ring Elite is quite different and doesn't need to draw power from the chime itself. The Ring Elite must be allowing some power to continuously flow, not enough to trigger a mechanical chime, but is enough to hear in the more sensitive relay. You could place a power resistor across the relay's coil terminals to bypass some of the power. It's difficult to provide any good advice on this for you, but perhaps some large power resistors (10 - 20 watts) and try different resistances starting with at least 1K - 2K Ohms? I would not want the resistors to get very warm. Many of these relays will trigger on only 50mA, which isn't enough for a mechanical chime to even notice.

Well, that's a new one to me. Let's confirm which model you're using, as the Ring Pro comes with a Power Kit (as shown in this video) , I don't believe it comes with a diode. The relay fully isolates the Ring doorbell from the intercom's chime circuit, so you shouldn't need the diode at all. But, I'm doubtful that removing the diode will solve this double triggering issue. After the electronic chime rings, how long is it until it rings again? Is this a Ring Doorbell 2, or a Ring Pro?

I found my problem. Actually 2 problems. The first was that the ring pro I had must have been a newer model. It had support built in for electronic chimes. You could choose between mechanical and electronic. If you chose electronic, it lets you specify the length of the chime. The default was 10 seconds, which allowed it to play twice. I changed it to mechanical since that was what was assumed I was trying to make work. I was disappointed to find that it then would only play for a second or two. But I remembered they use a diode to make sure the chime has enough power to play all the way. I had the relay connected to the wires going to the old Nutone doorbell, which then went to the chime. Knowing a diode only lets power flow in one direction, I swapped the lines, and bingo, everything works now. So with the new ring pro I probably didn't need the separate transformer and relay, but not all chimes are the same length, so I prefer this setup. Thank you for your help and video.

@@waynethorsted6589 Interesting that they have finally accomodated electronic chimes. That's good to know. Thank you for the update.

yes, use a 5 ohm 20 watt resistor Instead. 10 watt would also work but 20 is safer for low heating up.

It looks like it will work. This provides a dry contact closure, simulating a doorbell button.

I am not certain, as the Arlo documentation isn't great. But, it should work the same for their "Essential Video Doorbell Wired". I hope this works for you. I had some Arlo cameras a couple of years ago, I won't have any more Arlo devices.

With a Ring Doorbell 2 (not a Ring Pro), it should work with 2 9VAC transformers in series. It will even work with just 1, but you'll need a different relay, probably a 12VAC would work. If you try the two 9VAC transformers in series, you need to make sure that they are connected in phase or they will cancel each other out. If you're not getting the expected RMS voltage, just swap the connections on one of them. Note that the Ring 2 is rated for 8 - 24 VAC input, and those 9VAC transformers may be putting out 12-14VAC each at low load. So, doubling up on them might put the combined voltage over what Ring rates the unit for. On the Ring Doorbell 2, the transformer is just there to trickle charge the battery, when the doorbell is triggered it can use the battery for most of its power. I think I would either swap out the transformer for a 16 or 24 VAC one, or change relays and use only one 9VAC transformer.

@@Corgitronics ok thank you for the information because i was installing one couple days ago first time installing a door bell but have alot electrical n electronic experience so i connect the transformer to the wall outlet check with multi-meter was getting the right out voltage so i move on to connect the wire to the transformer for the bell i use the diode that i recieved in the ring 2 box after that the transformer started getting hot disconnect every ting then relase there was not output voltage from the transformer so figure the diode must hav cause it to shorted n damage the fuse in the transformer so i asked u bcus i would just go the electrical store n get a vac transformer instead buy a original one off the internet

In the Ring menu for the device, under General Settings, check the Doorbell Chime Type, it may need to be set to Mechanical. Also, the relay may require too much power to trip, you can try this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NN5ABG2/ See my follow up video on suitable relays: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xmeYzodpkfU.html

@@Corgitronics Thanks so much Corgitronics. I bought the relay you suggested and now everything is working. Great videos!

I would not connect a mechanical 16VAC chime to a wifi doorbell that isn't designed for it.

Well, mine is installed at my previous home. If I recall, it is more than a resistor, possibly a constant current circuit. It could be replaced by a very large power resistor. You would need to measure the amount of current the Ring is using and then calculate the wattage, etc. I probably wouldn't want to install a big power resistor into a closed wall box, as it will get really hot in there. If you have a Ring Pro, it should have come with a power-kit, just use that.

At the 5 minute mark I am testing with a mechanical (solenoid) doorbell, and all of the power for the RingPro is passing through the doorbell's solenoid. At the 11 minute mark I am testing with the relay, and only measuring the power passing through the relay, the rest of the power is passing through the "power kit" provided by Ring.

@@Corgitronics Fantastic, Makes sense. I tried just the relay www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NN5ABG2/ with a 24 VAC transformer and the "power kit" (as shown in your schematic) and for some reason, my Ring Pro would never fully boot up. When I use just a 16 VAC transformer and no relay, it boots up fine. The Ring Pro powers up with the relay in the circuit, but I always get some variant of the flashing LED (left, top or right) as if it's underpowered. It's a 24 VAC 30 VA relay and the relay closes with no buzzing. I'm not sure what's going on - perhaps a bad power kit because my current mechanical doorbell "buzzez / vibrates" even after the ring is fully powered. I thought I'd install the relay to get rid of the buzz and perhaps go to a digital doorbell later. If the "power kit", which I understand is a resistive circuit is bad, it would make sense that the mechanical doorbell buzzes and I guess make sense that the relay never disengages or the Ring doesn't boot up. I appreciate your input.

@@jsfarmes I think that the power kit is actually more than just a resistor, but I haven't taken one apart to check it out. Also, in the Ring App, under "Doorbell Kit Settings", make sure the "doorbell type" is set to "mechanical"

You can use the intercom's existing doorbell wires to power the RingPro, but the main issue is the Ring Pro doorbell needs a lot of power, a lot more than your intercom's transformers can supply. So, you'll need to disconnect the doorbell wires from the intercom and get that AC transformer's power up into the intercom's space. I'd suggest just plugging the transformer in to a nearby outlet and running the wire along the baseboard to the same wall cavity as the intercom, run it into the wall through a small hole, and pull it up to the intercom. If the intercom is mounted in an interior wall, then you should have enough room to mount the relay and wiring behind the intercom. My intercom master is mounted in an exterior wall and is full of fiberglass insulation, so I couldn't really do that.

Corgitronics, Thank you!! Yes, I have an outlet nearby and luckily a couch in front of it so it will hide the transformer. That will appease my wife :) So if I would like to keep my intercom working I can add the relay and the transformer and that should solve the issue correct?

What terminal strip will I need? Is 15A enough?

I have the general idea of how to do this but I am not an electrician so if you could detail the steps that would be helpful. I am ordering the transformer, terminal strip and 24V relay from Amazon, I am just a bit confused on which wires go where. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

@@albertomascaro552 Yes, that should all work. You might test it all out before drilling a hole in the wall :-)

Well, as luck would have it, see the video I published 10 days ago on relays to connect a Ring Doorbell2 to an electronic chime. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xmeYzodpkfU.html Also, at about the 10:40 point I show using just the common 16VAC 10VA transformer. See the video, but you may just need to get the relay, and wait on upgrading the transformer.

Curtis J: I have just uploaded a video showing details about the connections to the relay. I hope this covers everything. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hd68roYUDng.html

Corgitronics thank you so much!

Corgitronics do you know of a relay that works with a 16V AC transformer? my ring pro works fine connected directly to my 16V transformer but i do want to add the nutone electronic chime if possible. i can’t seem to find a relay that works at 16V AC

It sounds like there's a little too much current being pulled through the relay at idle. First a question, did you connect the PowerKit as shown at 3:48? If you have the power kit connected I can think of a few options: 1. Make sure the Ring's "Doorbell Chime Type" is set to "mechanical". See this article: www.pocnetwork.net/technology-news/troubleshooting-ring-doorbell-not-ringing-the-mechanical-chime-inside/ 2. Select a relay that uses higher current, this will force more power through the power kit. I tested some relays in another video, here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xmeYzodpkfU.html 3. Test out powering the Ring from a separate transformer, not the ones in the intercom.

I did not use a power kit since it’s a ring 2.

Were you able to figure this out? I am having the same problem. The relay chatters when the button is pushed and no chime sound.

It might, I don't have the Ring 2, but I might have one in a month or so. I haven't read much about the Ring 2, but if the installation instructions say that it can trigger a mechanical (solenoid) chime, then this approach should work fine. Note that if you are using a 16 Volt transformer, then you won't be able to reliably trigger a 24 V relay, you'll need to use a 16 V (AC) relay instead.

@@Corgitronics I have had a hard time finding a 16 VAC relay. If anyone has one, I would love to see it!

@@TaylorYork86 12V AC relay would do, as it's powered up for a very short period of time and there is no chance to overheat: www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTW5Q0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vL6IDbGCNVF7R

A few questions: Does it chatter all of the time, or only when the Ring is triggered? Are you using an AC relay, the typical DC relay will chatter. Are you using a 24VAC transformer with a 24VAC relay? The typical 16VAC transformer won't reliably trigger a 24VAC Relay. Also, is the Ring Pro set to "Mechanlical" under Device Settings --> General Settings --> Doorbell Chime Type ?

@@Corgitronics I'm using the elk 24v ac transformer, with the 24v ac relay you suggested on Amazon. It chatters immediately, when I check the voltage before I connect the ring on the opposite side of the coil it's 26.6v then when I connect the lead to the ring the voltage drops to about 10.6v on the load side. Is my power kit bad? The relay functions properly without the devices connected I've checked.

@@SuperHondaFitDriver It might be the power kit, I bet they'll send you a new one. Just tell them the doorbell solenoid is being held in the whole time, they should understand that. I really can't think of anything else that could be going on. Now, all of that said, remember that the Ring will pull a lot of current for about 30 seconds at power up. Also, make sure you've set the Ring Pro to use a mechanical chime as I mentioned in my last post.

@@Corgitronics Ok sounds about right, I'll make sure I call them. Hopefully that's it. I did all the settings in the app so I'll see once I get the new power kit.

The relay may not be necessary with the Elite, as it provides a pair of contacts for the existing doorbell. However, the instructions don't specify whether it can only work with a low voltage AC or will also work with a DC signal like an intercom. If it only works with an AC signal, then this approach should work just fine.

@@Corgitronics Great video! What I found on the Elite is, the Ring Elite is compatible with most AC-powered bells operating between 8-24 volts. Unfortunately, the Ring Video Doorbell Elite is not compatible with wireless bells or any bell/intercom system using a DC transformer. So, it sounds like this would work to the Intercom doorbell button using the relay you suggested - does that sound right? Could I possibly use a smaller relay?

@@grtessman Yes, I think this approach would work, I'm not sure about a "smaller" relay. You can use one of these AC relays without the socket, which will make it a lot smaller, you just need to crimp or solder the connections. This and perhaps other options might make for a good video. But, I have just moved and the new lab is still getting setup.

@@Corgitronics Thank you again for your reply. What I meant by smaller relay was more about using something nearer a 10v relay instead of pressing the boundaries of 24v since the Ring Elite is capable of operating. 8-24v. Does amps matter since PoE (IEEE 802.3af) is power over ethernet and what powers the Ring Elite? I can't imagine it would carry very many amps. As for size with the socket, that won't be an issue for me with 2"x6" wall depth I would prefer to use it with the socket. I'll be trigging the chime button for my Nutone IMA4406.

@@grtessman Based on their documentation and the diagram on page 5 of the installation manual, it doesn't appear that the Ring Elite needs any power from the doorbell transformer. I expect that their circuitry expects that the doorbell connection be AC, but is likely quite tollerant of lower voltages. I think that you could get by with 16VAC from the intercom's transformer and a 12VAC relay like www.amazon.com/Baomain-Power-Relay-PTF08A-Socket/dp/B00YTW5Q0E Although the relay is only 12V, the amount of time that is on to ring the bell is quite short... but putting a small fuse inline would be a good idea just to protect things.

I can't find any information about the M&S MC602 intercoms, but if the doorbell button connects directly to the chime board on the intercom then you should be able to follow the same approach. On the current M&S chime boards there are contacts such as COM, 1-NOTE, 2-NOTE, 3-NOTE. Just connect the relay's contacts to the same contacts that the doorbell button is connected to. Your chime board may look similar to this one, manufacturers usually don't change these much over the years: www.homecontrols.com/homecontrols/products/pdfs/MS-MnSSystems/MSMC3_Manual.pdf Be sure to watch my short follow-up video about the relay connections: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hd68roYUDng.html Now, for the second part of that... having the regular button trigger the Ring Pro... that would require going into the Ring Pro and connecting to the internal contacts of it's button. That might not be too hard to do, but I haven't dismembered my Ring Pro to see.

Thank you for your reply. Still trying to find somebody willing to install it. If I can't find one I might try to install it myself and hope I won't burn my house... lol!

Hello again corgitronics. Pls be patient with me because up to now i haven't found one willing to give the connection a try. Im having problem with the hook up on the main intercom system because the transformer has a TE5B (primary 120v 50/60 hz and dual secondary output of 16v 37va). From the transformer enclosure box (two 16v dual output) comes out 5 multicolored lead wires that connects to the main ms602 board and some wires connects back to the chime module where the door push button wires are connected. My issues are: if im gonna replace the 16v transformer to 24v, how will i do the connection of those 5 different collored output wires and will it not burn the other devices connectec because of the increase in voltage? imgur.com/gallery/S5Pxs6K this is how the transformer look like. The te5d (stock picture i got on the internet) is the same as mine its just that the te5b is 16v while the te5d is 16.5. I can't find a stock photo of te5b). i.imgur.com/PJropS9.png imgur.com/gallery/mEjVcqM link for the wiring guide for mc602 intercom system. imgur.com/gallery/79V7R9E Link for some of the photos of my intercom system. If you are willing and kind enough to help me with a step by step connection guide and solve the connection issues pls feel free to pm me at chard2005rivera@comcast.net. willing to send $100 check to compensate your trouble. It's not much and might even offend some professionals like you but i think its better than nothing. Pls help me with the connection. Thank you in advance. I have the parts needed with if the set up is like the one on your video and i also bought a honeywell transformer (24vac 40va in case we decide to replace the existing transformer and mount it on the enclosure box. Thanks I forgot to mention that in your video " how to connect ac relay" i noticed you did bundled-connection of the wires of the push button and wires of the speaker on the fron door outlet. Since my transformer has dual 16volt output, will that create a problem?

I replaced the existing transformer, as it would not have had enough power to run the Ring Pro properly. You can use a 16 V transformer if you get a relay that will work at the lower voltage. Here's my follow up video on other relays: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xmeYzodpkfU.html

@@Corgitronics Thanks, the videos are very informative. I am looking at using a Ring Pro and the distance from main panel to doorbell/Ring is about 30' so adding 10' for going up and down walls lets call 40'. Do you see a problem with keeping with the 16v transformer if I use the Uxcell relay that tested best in your video.

@@grtalley7443 That wire length should not be an issue, as long as the transformer is capable of delivering ast least 30VA.

Yes, you will need to use the Pro Power Kit. The Ring Pro uses enough current in standby mode that it will energize the relay continuously, the power kit allows most of that power to bypass the relay coil. It sounds like you have the right relay and transformer, just need to add the power kit.

thanks for Quick Reply, i will order and install Pro Power Kit and Let you know

Dear Corgitronics with the pro kit installed, it works, also is it normal that when we power on Bell, the relay stayed actuated (On) for few second and then turn-off (in that case, if power out and in at night, the door bell will ring for few second at night) let me know if i am doing anything wrong Thanks

@@pateljitu28I'm glad it's working for you! The relay will trigger when the Ring Pro powers up, that's due to the heavy current draw of the Ring Pro as it starts up. I explain this at 10:18 in the video.

@@Corgitronics, Sorry i overlooked that, Thanks You are the best

The intercome wires shown here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4ZFl6BRTQnA.html connect across the Normally Open (N.O.) and Common (C) terminals on the relay, as shown here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4ZFl6BRTQnA.html For further clarification, see the video on relay connections listed in the description above: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4ZFl6BRTQnA.html

Thanks for getting back to me appreciate it. I kind of get what you’re saying about the blue and white/blue wires.. I’m just wondering if you connected them to the relay cause in the still photo of the box all I see coming out of the relay are the purple wires I’m assuming thats the power coming? I bought everything that you have in the video relay, plugin transformer and the terminal strip.. I also have another question could I up grade the factor transformer from 16volts to a 24v and use that to power the ring pro?

@@Thebadman1680 The Purple wires connect the relay coil to the two contacts that would go to the traditional mechanical chime (with the PowerKit attached to those terminals as well). You can use a 24VAC transformer to power the RingPro (like I did), but don't use that to power the intercom, only use the correctly rated 16VAC transformers to power the NuTone system.

Corgitronics thank you sir much appreciated

Let's see if I understand your goal: When the Ring is triggered, you need a relay to close for 5 seconds? Are you powering the timer circuit from the Ring? You may already be doing this, but I would have the timer circuit with its own power that is isolated from the Ring. Then use an AC relay connected to the Ring to trigger that timer circuit. So, there would be two relays: Ring -> Relay -> timer circuit -> Relay -> 90VAC bell power

@@Corgitronics yes, that is exactly what I have, I am running a 24vac time delay relay, thru an isolated relay( 24vac relay on a 16vac 40ah transformer. ) initially , I had the 24vac transformer ( 2.5 amps) , running both relays, but the first relay ( latching) would oscillate. so I added the 16vac xformer, and isolated the relay. the problem I have is with either transformer, the isolated relay, wants to buzz when the ring 2 is in the circuit. I tried several different 24vac relays for an isolated relay, but am having the same problem. I haven't tried placing a 1K resistor across the coil contacts of the isolated relay yet. when I hook up the ring 2 to a bell ( 16vac) with a solenoid, , it works fine, when I hook it up to a relay, it wants to buzz ( 16vac xformer) or oscillate ( 24vac xformer). I know I'm close and its probably something I am just overlooking. I even tried adding in the 24vac relay on the 16vac transformer into the bell circuit, and it buzzed at first and stopped after 10 seconds, but started buzzing all the time, after I reset power. I haven't tried putting the 24vac transformer on the isolated relay yet, and closing the time delay with the 16 vac... I know that with out the ring 2 inline, any of the 24vac relays pull in fine with 16vac transformer.. maybe TMI, I have an antique crank phone that requires 90vac to ring, so I have a 3rd transformer( 120/90) in the circuit that powers the phone ringer thru the TD relay, the cool factor is great, just need to get past this little hang up( pun intended) your help is appreciated.

@@johnashbaugh9795 It sounds like you're on the right track. I'm traveling this week, so I don't have access any equipment. Do you have details on the delay relay (like a spec sheet) ?

@@Corgitronics I can get one in the morning, its an IDEC relay and not sure what the other is.. update, I added a 1k resistor across the relay coil, no change, I put in series and the relay wouldn't pull in, but didn't hum .the relay has a low frequency hum. it pulls about 33 ma when the button is pressed, and about 8ma when charging, I've left the relay and ring energized for several hours and its not heating up, just not sure how long it will last with the hum, the circuit works fine except the humming.. I know its a voltage leak thru the coil. I'm thinking I would start with a 10 ohm, and go up in series, the relay didn't hum when the resistor was in series. maybe use a resistive pot and see where it works best and still pull in, and add a resistor in line with the coil.. the transformer Is putting out a consistent 18.75VAC. I can send a video or schematic if needed.

That is correct, that is how I have it setup and working.

@@Corgitronics Hi There So I have it setup the way you described in the video but the relay won't actuate when I press the ring pro... Not sure what is going on but any idea... I checked the relay directly and it works but not in conjunction with the ring pro.. Thanks

@@sagarsamrat1108 Check the settings for the RingPro, make sure that the setting for Doorbell Type is set to Mechanical. Here's their FAQ: support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/115002791966-Setting-Up-Your-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-in-the-Ring-App Failing that, check the voltages (with the meter set to AC), and make sure the diode isn't installed.

@@Corgitronics thank you so much... Changing it to machanical did the trick... Appreciate the help....

The products tend to change regularly, but in this more recent video I show a few from Amazon that you can search for. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xmeYzodpkfU.html

Yes, but you would probably need to use a separate relay for each Ring Pro doorbell, otherwise the Ring units will draw too much power through a single relay.

The Ring 2 doesn't need a powerkit, see my more recent video where I connect a relay to a Ring 2: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xmeYzodpkfU.html

There is a diagram at 12:09 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4ZFl6BRTQnA.html and at 15:56 I show the connections to the intercom board ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4ZFl6BRTQnA.html

I don't have cat5 wiring, I assume the 2 pair that came with the nutone will work. Is there a telephone number I could call you at?

@@alehrhardt8063 the 2 pairs will work. Doubling up the wires as I show reduces the resistance and the voltage drop.

Could I contact you, or you contact me directly, thanks

What? This is about getting the chime sound to play through the intercom.

@@Corgitronics sorry, I wasn't sure if some intercom systems had seperate doorbell speakers. Thanks for you reply.

I think this approach will work with the Ring 3. There are a few differences, such as the Ring 3 doesn't appear to need the "power kit". If you use the relay approach, your transformer might not supply a high enough voltage to trigger the relay, see my other video on that in the description above. You may also need to configure the unit for "mechanical chime" . You will find that under Device Settings --> General Settings, select the Doorbell Chime Type and select "mechanical".