I forgot that I never uploaded the 4th part, so here it is! Applying the decals can be a bit tricky so hopefully this video will make it easier for you guys. Enjoy!
The key is to put decals on when the paint is still a tiny bit tacky, let it all dry, then spray whole helmet in SATIN CLEAR COAT. This method allows a decal to wear like iron. Also, historically. most of the decals were NOT applied perfectly straight and lined up. The manufacturer didn't have 30 minutes to apply one decal.
The wartime decals were applied and then a coat of clear laquer was put on over the decal. I have seen many bring back original helmets with at least 75% of the decal remaining on the helmet. There is a youtube video which was from a wartime newsreel showing how the helmets were made, painted, and had decals applied.
The official rule says the top of the decal should a minimum of 3mm below the vent (I think it says minimum to compensate for various shell sizes, but I always stick with 3mm). Though I have seen them all over the place on originals... I guess it depends if it was applied at the factory or as a depot refurbished.
I wanted to decal a repro helmet and the decals came from a U.S. dealer - the decals came off the backing but would not affix to the helmet however these did not crumble, split or tear. I sprayed an adhesive and knowing I had one chance only put them on. I did use "solavset" later on. One decal was a Luftwaffe late eagle - which can be hard to work with - turned out pretty good.
Hola amigo,tengo un m42 tambien de excavacion,y quisiera ver si me puedes decir como frenar que se siga oxidando,ya que se caen de vez en cuando cascarillas,como pequeñas escamas.. lei en algun sitio que quitarle con un cepillo el oxido lo mas posible y despues darle con aceite wd40 creo que se llama. muchas gracias y saludos
Should I apply decal glue to the helmet before I put the decal on? Or does it not matter. I have done this before with a luftwaffe eagle and when it rained at an event, the decal slid right off because my helmet got wet.
You should try and use a glue every time. The ‘d day1944’ glue is the best and really sticks it on as it’s the same natural glue used by the Germans in ww2.
That’s weird. I know certain groups are very strict with what you can use and some will only accept original items, but 95% of groups will allow a well converted Finnish helmet.
@average channel Hand Picked ones from IMA. Asked for the ones without the extra rivets. Their main gripe were how the angle of the skirt is off and how the brim to skirt isn’t the right curvature or something
who cares about a little bit of inaccuracy. Theres practically 0 difference in the finnish helmets and german ones asider from the liner and split pins. Spilt pins are an easy fix and who cares about the liner. Hardly anyone is gonna see it.If they are so anal about a finnish helmet then its a group you want to avoid at all costs. They'd probably try to dictate everything you buy and get pissy if you wanted to buy other stuff thats not what their group does. Go for a group that a little bit lax on things, they end up having the most fun anyway and a plus side is you have money to do other stuff like other impressions or actual life things outside of reenacting.
@@silver.sorner2059 ik they also used decals until very late 1944 where there was not enough resources to make them but it’s easier to use a below or bread bag strap
@@silver.sorner2059 yes but not all and definitely not most,about half most soldiers on the eastern front had one on or a cover but on the western front there wasn’t many
@@tigerpresentationsproducts425 not sure what you mean by belt but decals were still used during the war. It was more common to have a decal than to have a bread bag strap based on photos I’ve searched. It is still acceptable to not have a decal and to use a bread bag strap of you are doing late war.
