Yes, i would. Nice design thank you. Simple, yet bold. Nice technique on using a hole saw for the large circumference then a forstner bit to make the interior hole to make the handle area. Would have not thought of that one. Gave me a solution for another project i've been pondering how to accomplish. Nice wood choices on the birds eye maple and padauk. I'm already thinking of a fun variation of your design to include a small round hole about 1/2" deep for a ramekin (ours are 2 3/8") to hold either nuts or fruit spread or something to compliment the cheese on the board. Nice design, learned a few new techniques. Well done.
Thanks, Brian. Great idea for the ramekin. I purchased a whole bunch of those when they went on sale and was planning to do something similar, but haven't gotten around to it yet.
beautiful work and great idea about cutting a circle out of the size you want to use as a lathe guide - helpful if you dont have calipers - helpful even if you do lol thanks again!
Thank you for your comment! The epoxy I use is called System Three T-88. Based on some quick research (non-authoritative, based on comments from other woodworkers) it seems to be food safe, but you'd need to check with the manufacturer to be absolutely sure.
I'm not sure about it being poisonous, but like many types of wood, it contains irritants that can affect some people. Here's an interesting site that shows toxicity levels for many different wood types. www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/
Iam a novice wood worker at best, no because I’m in Arborist and I come in contact with a lot of different styles of wood I have more ideas than I do time and skill. I don’t have all these tools, any advice on what I wood need to attempt a project close to this? By the way best charcuterie board I have seen yet, simple but elegant.
I have been wanting to tell you that I have made probably 20 of your design boards over the last two years. I use paduck, ambrosia, walnut, cherry and spalted tamarind. I want to thank you very much for your video.
It was great to watch a master craftsman at work, with calmly delivered clear instructions. You have a new Fan. Happy to Subscribe. One question please, where do you Purchase the wood you use,? Thank you.
Thank you for your comment! Not sure about being a master, but you made my day. 😀 I live in Virginia, so I get my wood from a couple of local places. I like Northland Forest Products for their high quality wood, but it's a bit of a drive for me, so I often go to Vienna Hardwoods because of their low prices.
I seem to be having a problem when sanding padauck and maple together. The padauk dust stains my maple or ash. How do avoid that? I'm open to suggestions. I'm a subscriber-thanks for the creative ideas.
I've been able to alleviate that problem by using compressed air after sanding to blow the padauk dust out of the pores of the maple or ash. That usually works for me. You can also try using a damp cloth to wipe the padauk sawdust away, but I would try the compressed air first to remove as much as possible before getting it wet.
I used mineral oil. You can buy it at Amazon, big box stores like Home Depot and Lowe's, as well as pharmacies. Sometimes it's sold as cutting board oil but it's usually just mineral oil.
Those look great man! The one you said you liked the best, I think that is actually just the heartwood of the maple, not spalting, but regardless, way to make them really interesting!
You said it was to find the exact center for the Forstner Bit. I use a way which I think is very easy. I place a 1/8 drill bit in the chuck. Put the work piece in the drill press and use 1/8 drill bit to find the center where you wish to have the Forstner Bit to drill. Clamp down the work piece then remove the 1/8 drill bit and install the Forstner Bit and drill. NOTE you may have to lower then rase the drill press platform to install the Forstner Bit.
I'm always happy to answer questions. It was just regular mineral oil that I applied. It's food safe and is easy to reapply, when needed. You can also find it sometimes marketed as cutting board oil, but it's really just mineral oil.
Can I suggest a book on Wood Finishing, called Understanding Wood Finishing By Bob Flexner. This Book cuts threw the myths about Wood finishes . I have done Woodworking for 30 Years and believed every thing I read on the cans of Finish,Then I got this Book.
there beautiful but i am concerned with the round inserts due too end grain to end grain with just glue in conjunction with wood movement will they eventually fall out
I lost count of the number of big pieces of machinery you used! I’m try to work out how to do this with a very limited workshop! Ps what was the finish you used at the end?
Much to be said for projects that aren't too complicated and sell well. Trying to think of a way to do this with hole saws as I own neither a 3" FB nor a lathe.
I have enjoyed your video and have made several of your designs. I have standardized on ambrosia maple, with either walnut, purple heart, cherry or Paduk. Depending on the ambrosia, I also fill voids with turquoise or red stone, either in resin or CA depending on the sixe of the void. Thank you
I really like that you use the words cool and cheese boards in the same sentence. I guess there is a first for everything... Nonetheless, nice looking boards!
Great project for Christmas gifts. Thanks for sharing. I have walnut and cherry logs I am milling today, so I will use some of the slabs to create some cheese boards when I dry the boards.
Hello, I'm from Brazil and I really enjoyed the videio. Congratulations on the work, a beautiful finish. I wondered what wood I used I'm using Google translator and I do not understand English. And it was very good the background music very much remembers the samba from here in Brazil. Rsrsrs Parabéns
Eu usei maple para as placas. Para os anéis, eu usei nogueira, cereja e padauk. (Espero que traduza corretamente) A música é Bossa Nova, que é um estilo que eu gosto muito. Obrigado por assistir! I used maple for the boards. For the rings, I used walnut, cherry, and padauk. (I hope that translates correctly) The music is Bossa Nova, which is a style that I really like. Thanks for watching!
how long is the board? I want to make some with Claro Walnut, Curly Maple and Purple Heart. if you don't mind me asking, how much do you charge?..Been one of my toughest decisions for my projects.
I generally make these to be 20" - 22" long. Your selection of wood will make some nice looking boards. I have found $60 to be a reasonable price for these boards. I hope that helps. -- Mike
Figured about the same length according to the diameter of holes. Thanks for the response. I'll be making a few to sell as a vendor at a local logging show. I'll let you know how it went. Thanks again and nice work!
Yes, I would. I have a question about the epoxy. I made a cutting board and used a laser to engrave it. I want to fill that engraving with epoxy and purchased one that says it is FDA compliant. Do you worry about chip out or tear out when cutting on that board? Thanks, for sharing the video.
I would tend to use this type of a board more as a serving tray rather than a hard core cutting board. You could use it for light cutting of cheese or paté. It might be a good idea to use a wooden knife for that, just to minimize scratching.
I absolutely love these. I like the padauk one the best. How do you keep the pad auk from bleeding over to the maple wen you sand? Also, do you have any tricks to keep the padauk from darkening to brown over time? Thanks for the great video.
One thing that I've found useful to prevent the "bleeding" is to use compressed air to remove the fine padauk dust particles. That does a pretty good job of eliminating the problem. I don't think there's any way to prevent the padauk from darkening. It'll happen eventually no matter what you try.
It's roughly 21 inches long. I used a bowl with an 8 inch diameter at one end, and a bowl with a 5 inch diameter at the other end to trace out the curves. The board is approximately 5/8" thick.
Thank you for watching! I used regular mineral oil for the finish. It is a good finish for this type of a project because it is safe for use with food, and it is easy to reapply, when needed.
