Very epic video, will apply to my warped bed. My 3Dtouch failed me too many times but my Z endstop works flawlessly so with the added manual mesh I don't need that evil sensor ever again.
That's exactly what I'm looking for. I have a stock I3 mega s and with Marlin the mesh bed leveling process was straightforward. I couldn't imagine that Klipper can not do such thing. And here it is. :) Thanks.
@@PrintsLeo3D Hi! I'm new to KLIPPER coming from Marlin I have a question: how can I set the x, y z steps. The part a cube 20x20x20 result x 19.71 y 19.78 z 19.92 a walls not printed cleanly
Hey frank, the steps on Klipper are now referred to as 'rotation distance' and they can be found within the printer.cfg file (which is under the configuration tab on your front end). Within that file will be sections for each stepper motor, i.e. [stepper_z] ... rotation distance: 8 [stepper_y] ... rotation distance: 40 They can be configured there, although I wouldn't recommend changing the rotation distance for the X, Y, or Z axis based on values of a printed cube. You should keep them at the factory recommended values based on the motor, which for an Ender 3 Pro or Voxelab Aquila style printer is x-40, y-40, z-8. Usually when you have a model that isn't printing dimensionally accurate you want to first make sure the rotation distance (formerly e-steps in Marlin) is accurate. Then adjust your flow, z offset, and make corrections from there. Let me know if this is useful for you!
I've been having issues getting my printer to work properly for a good while now and some of the issues are because of my warped bed. Followed your video every step of the way and now I'm able to print with Klipper. Thank you so much!!
Julie I love hearing stuff like this! The amount of tools that Klipper allows us for free really brings out 3d printers to a whole new level (no levelling pun intended lol). Thanks for sharing your experience!
Leo, when I saw this comment my heart melted for you because as a content creator these are the kind of comments on video's like this that make it all worth it and I knew how it would hit you.. I just felt really good for you man great comment and great Job Leo@@PrintsLeo3D
Wow, I'm blown away by your kindness too! You're right, it's comments like this that really put every in perspective. My goal is to help people, and I hope I'm able to, but seeing it first hand that something I put together was able to give someone a better experience is really powerful. Also thank you! Taking the time to give a mental boost to someone else who's putting content out there is just as special and impactful as the original message. So thank you for watching, reading, and sharing ! This is the best community.
thank you very much. I'm new to klipper, I barely succeeded in initializing it, and it was difficult because I didn't know what to do with bad leveling. Your video solved my problem properly.
That's great to hear!! I take my time on these videos to try and reach out to those people who are newer to Klipper and make things a little easier to understand. I'm happy to help and thanks for the feedback!
Thank you for the kind words, and you'll definitely be seeing more videos in the near future! I am finishing up a dual belted Z video and then I am starting on an input shaping video and then a pressure advance video! So excited to showcase those two tremendous features!
Thank you so much! I do love this stuff lol unfortunately I haven't had the time lately to record anything but I should be publishing something shortly!
thank you for another great tutorial!!! after a power failure i lost prints and my printers took a dive...so had to redo all the levelling....my ender 3 has a sprite hotend with BLTouch an no matter what i did the auto level with the sonic pad with botchy at best....had great areas and seemed like other probe sections weren't even getting probed (that's how it seemed) so of course i said f@#$K this and searched for manual level with klipper!!!! there were others but none as detailed as yours.....the biggest issues i had with following your tutorial was my BLTouch....had no idea how to disable it....but with help from your discord the community got me up and running......it's not as easy as it seems.....but after removing or uncommenting anything to do with the BLTouch, the manual process went very smoothly...and now by bed is level as it should be (honestly i've always trusted my own manual levelling over the probe) Thank you so very much!
Awesome! So happy to hear the Discord was able to help. There's strength in numbers and I'm so happy that everyday people keep joining our ranks and helping each other out. Thanks and I'm glad you were able to take care of this!
So glad it helped! More and more people are finding the benefits Klipper has, and I am happy to be helpful along the way! Thanks for watching and for leaving a comment !
Yea this technique is really huge for those people not using a bed probe. Getting the same ability to create a bed mesh while not having to set up a probe is really amazing. Thanks for watching!
Perfect! That's exactly what my videos are aimed to do. I'm teaching a specific topic but my whole goal with each video is to covey a larger understanding of how Klipper works and hope that you get a little more comfortable with it.
For those watching, and im sure he knows by now. But for those who dont... What he calls leveling, is actually known as tramming. If you hear that word, its this, with the bed screws. Leveling as of bed meshing is called just that, or auto leveling mesh.
Yea, I go through this each video and it's always a balancing act. Usually on most of my videos I make some statement or there's some text to note the actual name, and I do prefer to use the term tramming, but it's just so common for people to say and hear "leveling" I try not to confuse newer people. So it's always a struggle in my mind of do I ulsay tramming or do I say leveling, and I am pretty chatty in these videos as it is so I try and eliminate any excess where I can. Thanks !
Awesome i was just watching and reading about installing klipper for my ender 3v2. But wasn't sure how to do the mesh bed leveling. I think its time for me to go install klipper 🤗. Great video
Thanks! It's not really that hard when installing with KIAUH (I go over that in a previous video), and the benefits are amazing! Glad you liked the video and thanks for commenting! Good luck!
Thank you so so much!! Klipper offers so many features and they're implemented so elegantly that it lends itself to making well laid out videos. Thank you for watching and for commenting!!
Wow, that's one of the best compliments I could hear! Klipper has a lot to offer, more than just the fast speeds we always hear about, so I'm glad I can showcase some of it's other great features. Thanks for commenting!
@@PrintsLeo3D year or so ago I had a not nice experience with some klipper guys and this past November I’ve found your channel and Nero and it’s help my tremendously. I completely wrote klipper off and now I realize just how powerful it is and also don’t let a small majority speak for a community and move past your own ego difficult thing to do sometimes.
Well what you did is one of the hardest things in the word to do. People make a community, and when you meet the wrong people -or a few people who you just aren't compatible with- it can give you an impression for the entire community. Being able to move past that is a really tough task. I'm happy to say I will always foster a positive attitude and willingness to learn, to share, and to improve. Klipper is awesome and being able to share that awesome experience with other people is really cool, and ultimately it's going to get everyone printing better, which is the whole idea! So thanks for being able to give this firmware (and community) a second chance, I know you won't regret it, we've only just scratched the surface. Cheers!
Hey thanks for finding it! It's a little off the beaten path Klipper related stuff , but I'm still trying to get good info out there. Thank you for finding this video and letting me know!
@@PrintsLeo3D I'm still trying to figure out what klipper is and if it's actually better than what I've got going on. Marlin firmware, octoprint and a pi 0
That's actually a great question and maybe something I can dedicate a whole video to, just describe the differences. Klipper does all the same things Marlin does , gets your printer to print, but it uses a second microcontroller (like the pi that is running your Octoprint) to do all the heavy lifting. So with your mainboard and the second microcontoller working together you able to get faster speeds and more accurate prints. It also gives you remote access (just like you have with Octo) and makes editing your firmware very very easy. If you're getting quality prints with your printer and are happy with the results then Klipper isn't something you'd need, it's an awesome addition but it requires work to get there and why fix something that ain't broke lol
If you have issues with mesh not working change the algorithm from lagrange(default) to bicubic in [bed_mesh]. Lagrange can fail if given to many probe points.
This is a great point and I'll make a note(although I often forget and I'm sorry) to add this info to the description with and credit you. I figured this would be less of an issue with Manual Mesh, because who wants to calibrate all those spots, but it may make more sense to get the bed as accurate as possible each time so you don't need to do more calibrations down the line. Thanks!
Woah! Thank you so much! Like I said in the last comment, finding the time to record has been hard but contributions like this really give me the motivation. Thank you!
Thank you for leaving a comment, I appreciate it! There's going to be a lot of Klipper content rolling out as well as some newer videos that are rounding out some other calibrations 👍
Everything went fine unit you have to enter bed_mesh_profile in gcode_macro_start_print but there is no gcode_macro_start_print?? Am i missing something???
The start_print macro is just a group of commands you want to run at the start of your prints. There is no default start_print macro from Klipper as you'll want to adjust it according to your printer and what features you want to use before each print. If you want a very basic start_print macro to begin using you can go to my website. At the top of the website there's a section for Klipper and then from there scroll down to Macros and you'll be brought to another page. That Macro page has a few different macros you can copy and paste into your config to use. As always remember to save and restart after you make changes to printer.cfg so the changes are applied. Good luck!
Some never printers are coming with beds that are fixed in place and cannot be adjusted. In some instances There is some ability to adjust the bed by tightened or loosening the actual screws that are holding it in, but in most cases that won't be necessary and the probe can do all the work for you.
Followed the tutorial to a tee, adjusted print is almost similar to a non-adjusted. It seems to me that it is somehow even worse. The bad spots are in the same places. I use feeler gauge for probing and I am sure everything is tight and sware. This is not the tutorial's fault at all it is just me being unlucky. I guess I'll have to just accept subpar 1st layers and hope everything sticks =/
When you were talking/showing the fad_end: and it was set to 10mm wouldn't you want that value the height of the print so it follows the contour the duration of your print? If it stops following after 10mm wouldn't it cause print line defects or potential issue later in the print? (I am new to all this so just trying to figure everything out) Also thank you for making this video, I didn't even know you could do a manual mesh with Klipper like this so I will be re-following your video when I do this with my Ender 3 Pro. Very much appreciate the guide!
That's a really great question. The reason we don't want the nozzle to contour for the duration of the print is dimensional accuracy. It's a fine line between getting prints to adhere to the bed, but still maintaining accuracy of the actual model through the print. What fade is attempting to do is get the best of both worlds. Through the duration of reaching the 10mm fade height the printer is very slowly and incrementally decreasing it's reliance on the bed mesh. This allows it to maintain accurate dimensions, continue to print a solid model free of defects, but also maintain the dimensional integrity of the model. So it's the actual fading (slow decrease in mesh reliance) that always is to not notice any sort of vertical defects. Manual mesh is such a powerful tool so I am happy to hear you're going to be using it! Thanks for watching!
@@PrintsLeo3D Wow thank you for the thorough explanation. It makes complete sense now that you put it that way. Never been excited to do a manual bed mesh and here I am looking forward to it. Haha thank you again for creating this tutorial I still have yet to add the CR/BL touch sensor to my Ender 3 Pro.
Getting people excited to start a manual mesh is the name of the game lol! I'm happy you asked the question and glad you're going to be using the info.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it! I appreciate the watch and the comment. Taking the time to comment might seem trivial but it means a lot to a small channel like mine and I truly appreciate it.
That's not a bad idea. Maybe sometime in the future I'll throw up some comparisons in like a RU-vid short. In the end I don't think you'll notice any difference at all. The times I was using a manual mesh versus the times I've used a bl touch seemed to work just as well. The only downside with the manual mesh is the time it takes to run it, but the in end results should be pretty close to having a sensor.
@@PrintsLeo3D it actually may make a difference. What I've seen is some people claiming the y offset of the probe to the nozzle needs to be 0 (same y value) for the probing to be accurate with klipper. The manual method is actually tracking with the nozzle, where there may be a bug with klipper auto mesh bed leveling that people are claiming devs just don't care to investigate.
As far as a auto mesh bug, I don't think I've ever encountered one yet (at least as far as I can tell). I hadn't heard of this issue either, are you saying that people are having issues with auto leveling if the Y probe offset is anything but 0? If so I may have to investigate that and see if I can reproduce the issue. As far as I know Kevin is one of the most responsive developers I've encountered so I'd be surprised to hear he was turning a deaf ear to an issue like that. I'd love to explore it further.
@@PrintsLeo3D I have an Ender 3 S1 pro that seemed to do fine with ABL stock on Marlin. When I switched to Klipper, my first layers are never consistent. It over compensates either too high or too low. It's as if the mesh measures then just doesn't actually use the values properly. I found one person on Delan 3D on RU-vid commenting about that any offset for y other than 0 causing issues. He claimed that mounting the CR touch in line with the nozzle fixed his issue altogether. Maybe it could be a physical problem like gantry twisting etc. I found another person who posted a video claiming that the issues were solved by not over tightening the eccentric nuts on the rolling carriages for all axes. Then I also found plenty of people being angry about "Klipper devs" not listening and saying their code is "perfect". Basically, NO ONE KNOWS why ABL seems to be so unreliable in a lot of cases when it comes to using klipper. It's a weird thing I'm seeing in the corners of RU-vid.
That was a VERY nice video. Thanks a lot just what i needed. In about 24 hours I have forgot the nice Z offset, and live adjustment commands, is there a way to save them? Can they be savet in a macro?
It's funny you mentioned forgetting the z offset adjustment, I kept forgetting some of the same calibrations. The one you're looking for is z_endstop_calibrate. What I ended up doing was just turning the command into my own simple macro, which in turn makes it into a button press on the front end. You can create one too, in your printer.cfg just format it the way any other gcode macro is formatted, give it a name (with no spaces) and add in a single line (z_endstop_calibrate). Save and Restart and now there should be a button working that macro on your front end's home screen so you don't need to remember anymore.
@@PrintsLeo3D It works! Thanks 🙏🙏👍 Until now it have been printing on a mirror because my bed til warped, the mirror smooth it a bit, but now is time to try out Pei sheets. Thanks again
hei very good tutorial XD its something need it.. ive a few question: *im new in to 3d_printing/klipper, i notice that you are using Fluid and im following alone with Mailsail, the manual mesh leveling you use is it a Macro or something from Fluid? (i mention im new in to this right... XD). *when im mesh lveing, what im aiming for +\- (around what values)... let me know... keep it going XD
Thanks happy to hear some newer printers are getting into Klipper! Manual mesh is not tied to any particular front end, this should be usable on both Fluidd and Mainsail! As for the values to look for, it's always nice to get a full mesh that has a tolerance of around 0.2mm, which means the lowest point of the mesh, and the highest point of the mesh have a deviation no larger than 0.2mm that being said I print on meshes all the time with higjer tolerances and they still work great!
Absolutely fantastic video! Love your channel. I'm having issues with my slightly modded Chiron on which i just started using Klipper, i'm using a cfg file made by a fellow Chiron user but i'm having issues in calibrating a bed mesh since a probe is specified and i don't have one (even though it's listed in my cfg file). I tried commenting out the "probe part" without luck, do you have a suggestion for me?
Thank you so much for the compliments! To be honest the best way to tweak something like this is if I can see the actual printer.cfg you're using. Why don't you try emailing me a copy of it (PrintsLeo3D@gmail.com) or if you want you can copy and paste the entire .cfg as a reply to this post.
hi, i've learnt too much things from you thank you. i have e3s1 pro with klipper. my bed is very very warped, around 0.6 gap in the middle. i used to put aluminium foil under it but when i realize that there is "axis twist compensation" i wanted to try but it doesnt help. can you make a video about it? if it works, im sure hundreds of ppl will have a flat bed and good first layer. my problem is it seems it doesnt save the compensation. everytime i do it again after save config and restart, z offsets are same for where i adjust the nozzle. so same bed mesh everytime.
I'm happy you found my videos useful and I appreciate the comment x2! Dealing with a bed that warped can be a huge issue, are you saying that axis tilt helped you? Or are you still having issues with the first layer ?
@@PrintsLeo3D sorry about the 2 comments, once was old and i realized that later. i thought it was going to solve my issue but somewhere i do something wrong. i just dont understand fully how its working. my problem is still there..maybe you can make a video about how it works.
Hey… thank you for the Video… I got a Manuel Mesh working with this Video. Just one question: When you start the Probe, a window is shown up called „Manual Probe“, in my case its not coming up, I have to write every time testz z= to move the nozzle. Is there any way to activate this window? Thank you in advance
You're welcome for the video and thanks for watching !! If that probe window is not showing up there's two things I could think of. First is have you updated Fluidd recently? I remember I used to have to manually enter the testz z= lines also, but at some point fluidd updated and included this feature. So I would look into updating Fluidd (be careful though as sometimes upgrades can temporarily break some features, which you can fix, but it may cause a hiccup in your day). Second is the settings gear that's towards the lower left portion of the screen. I'm not in front of Fluidd right now, but I believe there's options for those menus. You can adjust the height that it moves and you might also be able to turn it on and off. I would look here first and see if it's been disabled. Let me know if this helps, if not we can dig a little deeper!
I've never really dealt with anything like that, my initial reaction is thinking the origin is acting like it's in the wrong corner. I don't even know if that's possible though. What sort of symptoms are you getting ?
I have an X Max 3 and can definitely help. This printer comes with a bed probe so you would necessarily need to level the bed in this manner (unless it's really far off). I'm just curious what the use case is because I've leveled my bed before and can help you with the process if that's what you need.
I have Anycubic Kobra Neo with fix bed spacer, It is having Inductive probe for the ABL. when I execute the "BED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=MANUAL" command, it used same auto calibration of the Bed mesh calibration and start auto bed mesh calibration. I am using Mainsail Ui and I have only Calibrate option over there. I am not able to do the manual calibrate. Can you help me?
I'm not 100% sure on this, but if you have a probe section defined within printer.cfg (for your inductive probe) than I believe the manual method may still just cycle through the auto calibration process.
I usually reply even quicker but it's been harder for me lately, I have comment so haven't even seen for over two weeks 😢. That all being said the Anycubic printers are a little "weird" when it comes to some Klipper related processes. I don't own one myself, but between the Discord and here on RU-vid I see a lot of complaints and confusing over how Anycubic implemented things.
That error is telling you that under the section [bed_mesh] the parameter bed_mesh: must have some sort of value defined. Can you post your bed mesh section?
Hey Dominique, are you talking about the Save and Restart button that's inside the printer.cfg? One reason could be if you are running multiple instances of Klipper (meaning more than 1 3d printer) then that option won't be there for you. You would have to use Firmware Restart from the Configuration tab
I use klipper via the SonicPad. I changed the bedscrews positions. After a restart I tried to move the extruder to the first and other screws but nothing happend . Do you have an idea?
Well for one thing I have heard some horror stories when using the Sonic Pad. What I'm thinking is maybe you input the coordinates improperly (missing a comma or a similar error) and Klipper is not able to read the macro properly. Is there any output in the Console when you try and run the macro?
No, not necessarily. Some people prefer it cold, others hot, and each party has there reasons for it. I prefer to do all my levelling cold. The most important part is that whichever option you choose, stay consistent with it and use that method for all the calibrations.
Most people sight thermal expansion as a reason to do that, and to be honest I agree with the concept. In practice though I have had better results with a cold bed and nozzle while performing this calibration. The other thing to consider, and this is what I weighed most while making this video, is that this is a 'manual' calibration, which means you will be at the bed doing the work. Trying to do that while the bed is heated might cause you to be uncomfortable or at worse get slightly burned in some way. So I always teach the way I do it myself, which is on a cold bed. Then you can adjust the compression during the live adjustment.
Sorry about that. It's actually a very simple model you can create yourself. All I did was import 5 20x20x20 cubes (usually the slicer has these available for you). Then I shrunk them all to a single layer (0.2mm for me ). Then I already then around the bed. One in the center and then the other four equally spread at the four corners. I also printed this with a skirt, which is very import to help calibrate that z offset as the test begins. Hopefully this helps but if not I can try and set up some model for you.
@@PrintsLeo3D nope ############# # --------------- # < 1. # # # ---------------- # < 2. # # # # ############# 1. my mesh location with minor warp 2. where it should be like between the values 1(top), 0(where the flat surface shows) and -1 (bottom mine appears in the 0.99 - 1 range all the way at the top of the view
Rob, why don't you send me a screenshot of the mesh to my email (PrintsLeo3D@gmail.com) so I can get a better idea. I appreciate the time you put into creating your last reply
Barrie sorry for the late reply to this. My first thoughts would be to double check that you have a created a mesh within your printer.cfg, without the mesh setup Klipper will not recognize you are trying to run and create a mesh. Also what Klipper version are you running?
@@PrintsLeo3D used enderklack a fork of klicky in the end and made my own probe. did a screw level adjustment and took the probe off. that works for now :P especially when using the 1.1.2 creality board haha. (no probe connection)
@@PrintsLeo3D Yeah, the probe i used was a button from a silent mouse and a 3d printed holder for it. so i couldnt dock it and edited the klackCFG to remove the dock. but it worked.. just couldnt keep it on.. only so much you can do with the original ender3 and board haha. its got klipper and runs and prints great so cant complain :P
Hey Brandon I'd love to help! The first place I would point you at is my BL touch setup video (I promise it's not a gratuitous plug lol). About 3/4 through the video I talk about a "thorough" way to find the mesh, and that involves 'finding the correct minimum coordinates'. That's exactly what you want to do. You'll want to try and get your nozzle over the front left corner while at 0,0 (I assumed this was an Aquila/ender/similar for that example). It will likely require you to make some printer.cfg adjustments to your X and Y endstops. Take a look at that section of video and let me know if it helps.
@@PrintsLeo3D thank you! I actually did find that video and I feel like a dummy. I had to physically move my end stops back so I could get my nozzle alighted they were way too far forward so I was loosing bed space. Your video helped me get the right values I needed! Thank you!
Hi Leo, my bed has started to warp so rather than dismantle the machine i decided to try manual mesh level. I ran into some issues The machine i3 mega latest version of klipper on mainsail. OK so running the Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE opens an adjustment box and adjustment was made Clicking ACCEPT however results in Use TESTZ to adjust position. Finish with ACCEPT or ABORT command. TESTZ command returns unknown command Even though the console shows a TESTZ Z=0.01 command has been used to move the tool head by the command box Using the Z_OFFSET_APPLY_ENDSTOP returns a nothing to do endstop at 0 error? and SAVE_CONFIG doesn't do a lot either. In some Kakhanded fashion i used the command SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=-0.005 in the console which then allowed me to use the Z_OFFSET_APPLY_ENDSTOP so the line is now # out of the printer.cfg and the save config now has an offset of 0.005 obviously the wrong offset
I'm not too sure where to start, it sounds like something in the front end (Mainsail) might not be behaving properly. Make sure you are running the latest versions of Klipper, Moonraker, and Mainsail.
@@PrintsLeo3D I have 2 Klipper machines An ender 3 V2 on a pi but that has always needed a touch sensor. It's had 2 beds already which were warped from day 1. The anycubic i3 mega has started to show a raised center recently that's on a thin client. It the one I'm trying to get a manual mesh on. Both use mainsail though the ender also has fluidd added, the fluidd install basically pulled in everything from mainsail so I'm not sure there is an issue with mainsail on the i3. The only difference I can see is the ender uses Debian buster I think while the i3 uses Debian bullseye? Bullseye is the one affected by recent updates giving me errors so maybe there are more issues than just the mcu error?
Issues like this don't make me think you have an OS issue or anything like that. White honestly though I've never heard of anyone having these issues so I wouldn't really know where to start. I would probably recommend installing Fluidd (using KIAUH) and seeing if the different front end plays a role in the calibration.
@@PrintsLeo3D thanks Leo, I did that yesterday as it happens and the issue is the same, when I press accept I get a failed error. If I use the panel to move the z offset I can see it issue the test z command and it moves but won't accept. If I try to send accept or test z commands in the console it comes back with unknown commands? If I use the z offset under tool head then the z offset endstop command by copy and paste from your video description I get the dialogue box and the save restart. So if I am correct these commands relate to Klipper specific actions rather than fluidd or mainsail. Incidentally the adjustment box is a bit nicer through mainsail being as it's not a random jumble of buttons.
No, you're right the bl touch does in fact replace the endstop. This printer is usually bl touch enabled, I disabled it for the video and re-enabled the endstop, I just didn't physically remove the bl touch (which I should have so it didn't confuse anyone). I keep both of them setup like this (endstop and bl touch) so I can make videos on both setups, and if people have issues with one system I am able to test it out for them pretty quickly. I forgot to remove the physical bl touch in the video so I can see how that is confusing. Good catch
Why on earth aren't the values Z adjust in the Manual Probe dialog not sorted.?!?! sorted([1, 0.1, 0.005, 0.01, 0.025, 0.05], reverse=True) => [1, 0.1, 0.05, 0.025, 0.01, 0.005]
I mentioned it while I was recording, I don't know why it's staggered like that, but I think I edited out my comments. There is a way to set up your own adjustment distances under Settings>Tool I don't know if that reorganizes it for you though
@@PrintsLeo3D I've only recently started to learn about Klipper, but I am fast becoming a convert. I recently ordered a new main board for my old printer so I could use better stepper drivers and have more ports, but had I known then what I know about Klipper now, I would have ordered a cheaper board and just switched to Klipper. Manual mesh bed leveling was really the only thing holding be back until I saw your video. May I ask, the bed visualization tool you showed, is that part of Fluidd by default? Thanks!
Using a CR Touch is going to require some different sections in your printer.cfg. You will need to add a [bltouch] section and a [safe_z_home] section as well as removing/altering a few lines in [stepper_z]. If you want I can write out the exact sections you need I just need to know what printer you are using.
@@PrintsLeo3D That would be great i am using a ender 3 ,this is my settings: [stepper_z] step_pin: PB0 dir_pin: PC5 enable_pin: !PB1 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 8 endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop position_max: 250 position_min: -2 [bltouch] sensor_pin: ^PC14 control_pin: PA1 #Change pin to match your printer x_offset: -64 #Change offset to match your printer y_offset: -2 #Change offset to match your printer #z_offset: 4 stow_on_each_sample: False probe_with_touch_mode: True speed: 3.0 samples: 3 samples_result: median sample_retract_dist: 5.0 samples_tolerance: 0.01 samples_tolerance_retries: 3 [safe_z_home] home_xy_position: 117.5,117.5 speed: 100 z_hop: 10 z_hop_speed: 5
I don't use Octoprint so I can't confirm, but I believe you'll have to use the lines testz z=(insert amount to move). It's possibly the gui is only native to Fluidd/mainsail. If you haven't considered moving over to one of those front ends it's worth a thought.
Yea I hear ya, that's what I hear most from people who are on Octo, the plug-ins. Before Fluidd got that nice overlay you would have just to input "testz z=" into the terminal to have to make adjustments so that should still work for you. No differencr just an easier experience really. So if you want to lower your do something like "testz z=-0.02" And if you to bring the nozzle up you'd do the say thing but omot the negative. "testz z=0.2"
@@PrintsLeo3D it worked! It's was a painful experience for a 5x5 mesh with the terminal commands but I had to do it because I have 300x300 bed . The only thing I didn't manage to do is the final manual adjustments for Z endstop . But It worked . The Z steppers do move during printing . Thank you .
Awesome, I'm happy you have a mesh now ! I feel your pain doing this manually on a 5x5 mesh, feels like it can take forever. The endstop calibrate feature should work the same with using "testz z=" did you try that ?
Honestly,you cannot blame Klipper for the length of my videos . I go into fine detail and I am not the best at editing lol seriously though I do cover a number of topics in this video, not just creating a manual mesh, so while the concept can be difficult I did jam a lot in here. I love Klipper and I think it's great, but I agree it may not be for everyone. I'm just trying to help those that do want to try , and shed some light for those who are interested.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yNoPNzFKXvU.html Hello, after I calibrated the printer, saved it as default, and restarted Klipper, I added "BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default" after G28 in the START_PRINT macro. I started printing and encountered an error: "bed_mesh: Unknown profile [default]." When I checked the tube tab, the mesh profile wasn't there. I've tried googling for a solution with no luck. Any help would be appreciated. I appreciate any help you can provide.
