Very helpful. I removed the fiber insulation above the back screw. I was then able to unscrew the back screw. Now I am going to beat the old unit with a hammer to teach it a lesson!
So I got lucky again. Disconnected the negative battery terminal for five minutes. Reconnected battery. Turned ignition key to run position. Heard the gears turn. Outside temperature minus 10C/ 14F. Drove the car to warm up engine to normal temperature. Car heated up to 25C/ 77F. Air at floor vent 46C/ 114F. Air at dash vent 55C/ 137F. Thanks to the fellow who posted this reset information.
I want to thank you so very much for making this video. I didn't have the money to fix my car and I needed the AC to work for a driving job I got and thanks to this video and one other video I was able to change it myself and save myself $800. I'm not homeless anymore!
Thank you for this video, helped a ton! I found that you can cut off the left tab if you can't get that unbolted with a pair of snips. Additionally, you can cut some tabs into the duct piece to help it slip back into position over the plenum. That saved me a lot of effort during the reinstall.
Have an 06 crown vic, and this worked perfectly. Went straight to the chisel, but this is the best video out there, to solve this problem. Thank you, for taking the time to make this for us.
After viewing this video I got my heat going later on the same evening I watched it. I definitely owe you a big thanks! This saved me alot of cold commutes driving back and forth to work and also alot of money keeping a auto shop out of the picture
Great how to video! Helped me immensely. To get the screws on the actuator I taped a pencil to a 8mm closed end ratcheting wrench. Not fast, but it worked!!!
My blend door just broke this week and after watching your video I think I have the guts to do this repair myself. It seems you had the same issues as other DIY folks have run into ( just break that sucker out!) Wish me luck and by the way thanks so much for stating what size all the bolt and screw heads are, I hate walking back and forth to the work bench once I'm sitting in the car.
Thank you so much. It took me an hour and a half but I was able to successfully replace it. I appreciate your call outs on the bolt sizes. Thank you for this knowledge.
Thank you. a friend fixed it for summer... I am now ready for winter, I tried it this time, and felt the little bar underneath move...mix isnt good but defrost is going to work. That's plenty for now. :)
You said I should disconnect the negative battery terminal so nothing bad would happen. I disconnected it, and my dog ran away the next day.. Thumbs down.
Hey there Kent I just came across your video thank you very much man🙏👌, I just had my complete air conditioning system down on my Mercury marauder, and about a week later it started blowing hot air to call Mike try to get the mechanic to come over several times but if it’s at the rain sunshine so thank you when I get back home I may have to start doing it myself👌👍👍
Thank you for the video. It's the best one i found. My crown vic stays on heat. I turn the control to ac but heat comes out. So i got to go in dash and do what you did. Thanks again.
VERY helpful. I've been trying to turn the blend door but it will not budge. I used your guidance to get more access and pry the actuator off the blend door lever. I FINALLY got the heater turned off and I disconnected the wiring to the blend door actuator. The air has other expensive problems so I won't bother replacing the actuator.
Lisle Corp. (tools) makes a Blend Door Actuator Wrench for this job. Sells for about $55 and it enables you to reach ALL four bolts. Great compnay. Made in the U.S.A. too.
The difficulty of removing the bolts on the plenum, you mentioned. Other than saying it was difficult, you could have told us how you were able to get at them. Or is this like top secret
JUST AN FYI FOR ANYONE DOING THIS THEMSELVES... I JUST FINISHED MINE AND IT IS NOT NEARLY AS EASY AS ANYONE ON RU-vid MAKES IT LOOK. YOU WILL NOTICE THEY CONVENIENTLY SKIP OVER THE HARD PARTS AND THEN VAGUELY EXPLAIN HOW THEY DID IT. BE WARNED!! I BROKE 3 SEPERATE ITEMS ON MY CAR DOING THIS MYSELF AND I WOULD CONSIDER MYSELF TO HAVE DECENT MECHANICAL SKILLS
You don't have decent skills . If you did, you wouldn't have went full caveman and broke stuff. I change these quite a bit. Only broke one box because I got impatient.
So would that be my problem?I have 2011 marquis and the ac blows cold but I get no heat.. had the same problem last year but it started working out of nowhere now it’s not .
The engineers that designed this needs the shit kicked out of them. All that room to the right, but no, let's tuck it back behind this duct to the left, and then, we will put screws where nobody can get to them, and we will use a cheap part that we know will fail, long before the car is worn out.
thanks! does it matter what position the wire 'connector' is in (not the electricity- but the actual wire that the door blend actuator pushes or pulls)?
hello! my grand marquis has intermittent temp. so its cold outside, heat goes on and off on and off, even with heat set to max, Coolant is full. please help
The white electrical connector that you said you didn't know what it was all about on the first piece of trim you took off seems to me that if the crown Vic you are working on if that was a police car then that would be for the trunk release button. Police cars have a trunk release button there on the dash.
You DON'T have to break or cut the tabs, you DON'T have to remove the dash and you DON'T have to buy any "special" tools. I managed to remove mine by taking all three screws out and replaced it putting all three screws back in, just like factory install. What you need is an 8mm ratcheting wrench and some fishing string...
The white connector in the middle of the trim is for a clock. Ford wired all Panthers for every option, whether the option was ordered or not. They just deleted the thing it plugged into
I need some advice, please. I have a 2004 Grand Marquis with automatic temperature controls. My problem is that cold A/C blows out not only where it should, but also on my feet as well. NOTE: There is no clacking or other noise that would indicate a defective actuator. What else could be the problem? They door itself? Is there only ONE blend door? If there are more than one, where are they located?
The blend door in only hot/cold. The vents are controlled by the EATC. Uses vacuum only. Over time the O-rings shrink and leak. See my EATC repair video to fix this.
Is this the actuator that moves the air flow from the vent to the defroster or to the floor my problem is the air always comes out of the vent nothing comes out of the defroster or the floor only comes out the vent can anyone let me know if this is the actuator that's causing the problem
Is it possible with the radio removed to get access to the blend door to manually move it from hot to cold.? I watched another video of a someone with pliers manually changing it. Getting rid of this car with 370K miles this coming spring. I need it to produce heat this winter. I had the problem last year but after several clicks of the blend door it moved. So far no luck getting it to move back to heat.
To add to my below comment I have no trouble with the temperature when I turn the AC on the AC is cold at the vents when I turn the temperature up the AC vents blow out warm air but I cannot get anything to switch from the vents to the defroster or from the vents to the floor thank you for any help
Hello I just attempted to do the same thing you did, only for me when I plugged the white connector into the blend door it moved all the way to ac but then would not move when the temperature selector was turned. Do you think my new part is bad too? Or is there an issue with the switch or a fuse?
Another video had in comments to use a gear wrench for the one to the left and a tite reach wrench for the one in the back. I had heat and I replaced the heater core and I thought well I have heat so why replace this part while I have it apart. As soon as it was back together it failed. I feel dumb but if you have it apart replace this part.
@@angelonicassio7131 No I did a heater core replacement and I had the dash out. Blend door actuator worked at that point but I failed later. I am having a hard time replacing it and even a piece of my duct broke. If you have the dash out then replace this part whether it is working or not and use the best possible OEM part you can buy. RIght now I am living a nightmare trying to get this in
Once you get the electrical connector off, is there any way to manually turn the door. Driving around today in extremely cold weather with extremely cold air coming out of the heater vent. So I decided to set the climate control to air conditioning with the temperature set to 18C. Nice warm air coming out of vent. Might make it through the winter in my 99 Mercury Grand Marquis LS. Recall having the same problem in the past. Read on the internet about disconnecting the battery for a short time and reconnecting. It worked. But I will bookmark this video for warmer weather. I did the scan and I believe it was 024 blend door failure. Thanks.
@@KentDiego I may have seen the same video where the guy leaves the vice grip pliers attached to the metal lever that turns the door. Another video where another fellow removes the radio and is able to move the lever. First I will disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and then reconnect. This has worked for me in the past. If not I install an electric heater in the car and remove the glove box, air bag, and vents after disconnecting battery. Looking forward to seeing that lever. Car has only 106000 km/ 67000 miles.
I replaced the blender door exactly as shown but the new one doesn't work either. I have the electrical connector seated and the steel bar that attaches underneath moved freely before the new blend door actuator was installed. Also, I took the old actuator apart and the gear was stripped so I know it was bad. Do I have to put the duct work, air bag and glove box back inlace to make it work? I just ordered a vacuum gage to check the vacuum on the EATC. Any suggestions?
Did old unit with stripped gear make noise when switching hot/cold? That would verify everything else was working. I would guess that the new unit could be defective as I have had similar experiences with other parts..
@@KentDiego The old unit wouldn't switch from hot too cold. It would just run hot. Even with the EATC unit completely disconnected the blower just runs. You're right the new unit may be bad.
Did you have a problem lining up the foot on the bottom of acuator with damper rod while lining up the screw loops? Great video. Also I have rear seat ducts and that was a real problem. Do you know anything about rear seat ducting? Great video
yeah I hooked up a new actuator and now my car is idling funny when I stop my Windows start to fog up and it starts to blow hot air and then it starts to overheat
The air blend door actuator has no effect on the compressor. If that is not engaging then it is something else. Look around on some of the Ford forums for clues to what your problem is.
It took me 4 hours to do this. Save the Ford engineer that designed this for me. I want to strangle him with my bare hands after I heal all the missing skin on my hands. The front left bolt is a bitch. I unsnaped the top of the box and removed the top plate and the guts first. That gave me access to the other side bolt too. There were only 3 bolts in my 2006 grand marquis. Cut out the sound dampening insulation at the firewall to make room for a ratcheting box end 8mm wrench. I need got 2 bolts in this now. That front left bolt just isn't gonna happen for me.😐
Hello... Thank you very much for this video. It's was extremely helpful. Unfortunately, after I installed and plugged in the blend door actuator, the air is still not blowing through the main vents. I can see the device switch working as I fluctuate the thermostat from hot to cold, and it throws hot and cold air though the defrost vents as well as the floor vents, but not the main ones on the dashboard. Could you please advise? Thanks...
If not the EATC also could be the main vacuum line to EATC. This is a small plastic black line running from intake manifold to firewall at top to drivers side hole in firewall into passenger compartment. Had a rat chew a hole in mine. If your parking brake does not disengage in Drive then this hose is broken.
If the The Blower motor and fan cage are good. Then replace your blower motor resistor or blower or speed controller on the cylinder Head. You can always perform a self test on your head unit in 5 simple steps. 1:key on engine off 2: PRESS OFF & FLOOR SIMULTANEOUSLY THEN within 2 seconds press AUTOMATIC you should see it digitally loading in a circle. (Means test is working). Wait 60 seconds Step 4: write down any error codes it has displayed. STEP 5: press DEFROST TO END TEST. 024 - 025 are common errors for zone blower issues. 888 means test has found no malfunctions. Mine just gave an 024 error meaning a ITS BLEND DOOR FAULT
1995 Grand Marquis is WORSE!!!! Even cutting away the foam leave Zero room for anything to get to the back bolts. Even if one could, there is no room to swing the wrench. I finally just said screw it and beat the crap out till the back bolts broke loose. I did use the chisel technique for the front bolt, worked like a charm, too bad couldn't get on in the rear. Part arrives tomorrow, one bolt should hold it tight, the door moves so easy that it should open and close it just fine with one bolt. I would like to take the engineer who designed this and beat him repeatedly in the balls with a Louisville slugger. Only a moron would put a consumable replaceable part in an area that is damned near impossible to get to without removing the entire dash. They couldn't ount the darn thing from the bottom like any sane person would? And to do it for nearly 20 years?
Removing the dashboard to fix this is something like 10 hour job. It take a special mechanic to do it correctly. Often things will never work right afterwards, like rattles and scratched parts.
@@KentDiego What other common problems do these cars have? I was looking at one with a digital dash. I am trying to see if its worth in purchasing one.
@@Romulan112 I posted three videos with my issues. Age will take it's toll on any car. I feel the Ford CV was above average in reliability. I sold mine at 220k miles and it still ran great.
it only takes a couple of hours to remove dash repair actuator ...dont unerstand these hacks that think they are clever, a few clips and bolts wala dash is out of the way
You should take off the positive terminal cause if the negative one touches any of the metal body then the battery will be grounded again. Or take off both terminals altogther.
The risk is when disconnecting the battery terminals from the battery. If disconnecting the negative terminal first and the wrench touches the engine, the body, frame, etc., there is no risk of a direct short to ground. Doing so from the positive terminal is how you can end up exploding a battery, melting your wrench, or burning your car to the ground.