This is exactly what I was waiting for. Thank you! I noticed that mount under your rear view mirror. I have my radar detector mounted there and wired into the rear view mirror. Did you pull power from the mirror also or is your detector hard wired?
Is this with straight cut gears ? Or would you say it’s already loud enough to hear the procharger that you wouldn’t really have to get the straight cut gears ?
I think for the money and ease of installation this kit can't be beat. For a max effort build where money is no object and somebody very mechanically inclined is doing the install then the Whipple setup is top notch. The Whipple is going to make low end power as it will be into full boost much sooner. The centri blowers like ESS have a more linear boost curve so the boost comes in as you rev it higher and higher. This can work very well for a street car but for an all out build track car can be slower at times. The whipple does have more heat associated with it and will heat soak more easily plus its much heavier so you are adding more weight to an already heavy car. It's very difficult to say which one is 100% better as it depends on your goals and budge as each kit has its pro/cons.
I tried to take some but unfortunately my GoPro stopped recording before the actual pass and it was the only camera I had running. I won't make that mistake again and will make sure I have multiple cameras rolling next time which should be soon.
I didn’t install any because it seemed fine. It opened under vacuum and closed under boost. I reached out to Brevin and he said the BOV comes installed with a wave washer that is for our application so you don’t need to install any of the aluminum spacers from what he said. I held onto them just in case but so far it’s been fine. Make sure when you hit the throttle the BOV closes and it should open under vacuum.
@@BoostJunkieMedia gonna smoke test Monday at work. Just doesn't seem like enough hp upgrade. Ordered a cheap boost gauge to see what's going on. Should be about 8.5 but the vacuum gauge in the dic barely shows it going to 0
@@dikdawg3438 it’s possible you have a tear in the diagram or something in the BOV. If you smoke test it that will def show you a boost leak if you have one. I’ve not seen anyone have an issue yet like that.
With it being an automatic I have decided not to do them so far. Generally oil pump gear failure seems to be from hitting rev limiter and/or 2 step. I don't have a 2 step and with the auto it doesn't hit the limiter. Also seems to be way less OPG failures on gen 3's vs 1s and 2s
@@BoostJunkieMedia I had the exact car like you and thinking about boost. what make you choose the g3 instead of g2, why no dw415 fuel pump? what is the total cost after everything? would this kit easier install then the vortech/paxton? thanks
@@HENRY69.69 the G2 is at the very end of its efficency range at 700 hp and anymore and it would probably need to be over spun. With a chance I will one day want to make more than 700 G3 was the best decision for me plus the G3 comes with the upgraded inter cooler which is a $600 option and the G3 is only $1000 more than the G2. At the 700 HP range I don't feel the DW415 pump is needed just yet, once I dig into the acutal pumps it will be to do a full return style fuel system to run E85. Basically the kit was $5500 and it was $1000 for injector and $1000 for tuning with an HPtuners RTD device. Call it $7500 out the door pretty much. Similar kits that I saw with injectors and tuning were north of $9000 dollars so this was the cheapest option price wise. The kit is going to be similar installation to a vortech/paxton as they are all centrifugal style blowers.
