A damaged transmission is discovered, causing a quick swap with another spare. The first dozer drive is successfully tested and the frame is prepped for installation.
The things we don't know could keep us from doing anything. You have chosen to continue on despite that. It is folks with a solid "can-do" attitude that get the things they set out after. Ignore the lazy and uninformed, keep doing what you need to do and we will be excited to see the progress. Work is mostly adapting to changing situations. Well done.
This is shaping up to be a massive project. Certainly not on Binky proportions but definitely massive. $15 delivery charge to avoid a 4 hour plus round trip is a no brainer. It’s unfortunate that the rear dozer drive has to be turned around backwards since that means the oil filter will be sticking out so the tracks likely won’t be the furthest part to the rear.
Great videos, Frank! have two CC 149s. When I came across this video series, I thought they would be perfect for a project like this. I see you are swapping out the differential with the external brake (which the 149 has) I understand that the internal brake would be ideal, but I wonder if I could use them somehow. Also, I don’t follow the need to weld the spider gear. Will it not rotate the axle that still has splines, without welding them?
No, the spider will just spin around the isolated (non splined) axle. It's possible to use an external brake transaxle in some projects (my motor grader and my tandem Cub both have external brakes axles). I chose to swap it out as external brakes are more prevalent in my collection, so keeping this one as a spare makes more sense.
Quick question on your build: would it not have been workable to keep the engine and hydrostatic rear axle in line and build the new frame under the cub cadet chasis so the drive for the dozer would have been the top sprocket? I came late so sorry for silly questions.
So the 149 hydrostat is not biased for forward direction? My Cub Cadet SC2450 hydro is biased for forward direction according to the manual but I'm sure it is way different. My guess is your going to need at least 2-4 times the HP to make it actually do real work. My 24HP diesel will bog down when I really work it and your going to have waaaay more traction. But what do I know I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night. If you ever need something CNC'd let me know. Wicked cool project! Going to watch the Grader build now! I've run the real versions of these, those would be great around the yard.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 cool I must have missed that, probably my two 90lb labs tried to climb in my lap. they still think they are puppies! just starting the grader build....
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 I really need to do more research I guess. I thought the transmission was the series of valves that regulated the fluid from the pump. From the valves the motors were connected which powered and controlled each axel. Either I'm mistaken or we're in the same ball park.
Haven't yet. It's a pretty silly hobby. Put $2000 to $3000 into a $250 tractor restoration, only to have it be worth $500 max. Look for an upcoming "short" featuring most of the collection.
Well, they have no power of their own, so it depends on the engine driving them. As an example, a Cub Cadet tractor (weighs 800 lbs) looses traction (spins tires with chains) before a 10 hp engine bogs down. These hydrostats are used on tractors with up to 20 hp or more. I think I heard somewhere they are capable of handling 30 hp? Not sure about that.
