The dozer frame is reinforced and extended to enclose the rear transmission and in preparation for mounting the engine, hood and operator controls and seat.
I totally appreciate the work and engineering you’re doing. Amazing job and addictive to watch. The one thing that makes me nervous is the zip wheel (angle grinder) without the guard. I know you’re wearing gloves and visibility and maneuverability is better without it, but they can jump and bite right through the glove. Believe me I know. I put my guard back on. That’s the last time I’ll mention it. You’re doing great.
You Sir are doing an outstanding job on this dozer, talk about thinking outside the box. My fab skills could not fill this space ( ) so talk what ever I say with a grain of salt. When you added the rear section I thought that if you have turned it over then the top would be straight line with a bit of kick up on the underside. I think the winch is a great idea.
Just a tip it is better to weld the pointed tip of your mitered corner so you can pull back towards square by welding the inside corner you can't go outward if you need to to get square when it draws towards the weld
Yeah, I'm learning the welds shrink and move the pieces around. I try to tack all around, then weld, and I'm gradually gaining experience. But I'm still a novice. I appreciate the tips!
IAM VERY SURPRISED THAT YOU DON'T HAVE A COMPRESSOR AND A SPRAY GUN TO DEGREASE AND PAINT YOUR PROJECTS , BUT I LIKE WHAT YOU'RE DOING , ALL THE VERY BEST FRANK .
Try making your own gaskets when I was doing mechanical work I made all of my own. Gasket material comes in various thicknesses. Very good build Frank keep on keeping on.
I'd suggest you make the winch and ripper so they can be swap mounted. That way you can use several different accessories. Including a Harley rake and drag box.
Ik buying metal these past few months has hurt the feelings bad I priced some 1/2 plate the other day and it’s crazy how much they want for it these days
I know you're mocking it up but I would throw some welds on top of the angle between the angle and original frame just to keep original frame from twisting even though the box frame is on top
Fireball tool on RU-vid did a really good video on weld sequencing when you want to make a square frame. It has worked for me plenty of times. Very simple and effective. It’s basically outside edge, then flat faces from inside to outside then inside corner. He explains how abs why it works in the video. Cheers for sharing your project with us!
I have the grizzly version of your old table and I weld long frames like this often enough. I just work on one end at a time. The clamps and stops makes it easier. Besides who really wants to work on the ground if you dont have to. I'm loving the build. Keep up the great content.
Looks like a long distance between the connection points on the hydro drives. Will there be too much flex on the drive shaft? Will you need a carrier bearing or other support? Just curious. Enjoying the build!
Being hydrostatic drive, there is not much need for brakes. The drive axles act as brakes when not driving. Might need a parking brake, though. The axles have internal brakes which can be enabled pretty easily.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 it's not like you are going all that fast to begin with. On my tractor built with a cub cadet hydrostatic rear, I used a driveshaft with real universal joints, but unfortunately, the Honda tractor engine was the wrong rotation, so I'll swap that out for a small Yanmar clone diesel engine. It was from a generator, gut I can use a 1" two sheave pulley for the drive with one belt going to a jack shaft under the engine, thereby correcting the rotation issue. The other sheave is for my power steering pump as it's hydraulic, and the steering valve is from a forklift.
Only way to drive both hydros with a common drive shaft. One from the front and one from the rear input. They both need to be driven counter-clockwise from their front side, but with a common drive shaft, one is driven CCW, the other goes CW. So if you turn it around and drive it from the rear input shaft, you can drive it CW.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 I understand that but why does the rear one get turned around and not the front one? Afterall the rear is already in the correct orientation facing forward when it was originally in the tractor so in my limited understanding wouldn’t you just have to spin the front one around?
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 But thinking of your grader both drives are facing the same way but together powered by a belt from above. Wouldn’t the dozer be the same except the drives are spread apart.
