Cummins Head Stud Install Technique - 2005 Dodge RAM 5.9L 24V 

Hey thanks Lyle!

Thanks Troy!

I guess we’re double nutted on this one then. Thx

Hey thanks Zach, if you email me at the address shown at the end of the video, I can send you the detailed instructions for both the injectors and the head studs. Torque specs and sequence, etc. Much more detail than in the videos. Good luck to you, Greg

I too have an 05 Cummins 3500 dually. Greg, you are an excellent teacher in explaining mechanical procedures. You are right about other videos being incomplete and rushed through. Thank you for doing a stellar job in this video. I will search for your video on replacing injectors. That's next.

Brice Moore Thanks!

shweller Good on ya. If you email me I will send the documentation for the repair. Email address is shown at the end of the video.

Hey thanks!

Glad it helped. Also thanks for emailing a request for the instructions.

@@gpwrinkled and that’s another thing……the instructions were very clear and concise, better than the shop manual! Thank you for sending them.

Abraham Salcido Thanks!

Thanks! I’ll keep the tapper cover topic in mind.

sneek24 Hey thanks for the heads up. At the time I did this I called the ARP technicians and they cautioned against any other sequence than what I described in the video. I have detailed notes and step by steps for anyone who will email me. Those instructions include the comments from ARP. The method you note makes really good sense to me. I have found that “the only thing constant is change” so it wouldn’t surprise me if ARP’s research has yielded an improved approach. Thanks for the heads up!

Hi ya Roy. Gee I have no idea. Perhaps someone here will know. You could also Google "Cummins Diesel Forums" or Dodge Diesel Forums" and ping some of the folks there. They have some very knowledgable folks on the forums that probably have some insight on that.

Gee it’s great to hear from you Andrew. Time rolls on, but friends remain. Thanks for taking the time to ping me. Happy New Year to you and yours. Greg

Ben Dover Thanks!

@@gpwrinkled Greg was there any problem with the long stud AT #19 or the short AT #23, 24, 20? i was also told that the lower cover at the #20 the lower cover had to be machined out to accommodate the nut and washer, how did you do it?

@@rexalexander8732 I am not sure what you mean by 'any problem' with the long stud at 19 or the others you mention. There are 6 studs that are longer than the others and they must be installed along the exhaust manifold side of the head at positions 3, 6, 11, 14, 19, and 22. The nut and washer for the stud at position #24 will interfere with the rocker box, also called the lower rocker cover, unless you remove material as shown in diagrams in the instructions that come with the ARP studs. I removed that material with a drill press. I did the removal after I had installed all the head studs. I lowered a large diameter drill bit through the hole in the drill press table, secured it there, and then used the drill bit as an end mill which means I pulled the rocker box against the side of the drill bit, with the rocker box flat on the drill press table. I removed a little at a time and tested the fit on the head, ensuring I didn't have interference with the installed Nut. Using the drill press ensured that 1) I could take a little off at a time in a controlled way (rather than with a hand held drill or dremel), and 2) with the drill press table being square with the bit, it ensured I removed material square with the rocker box. Note where the rubber seal groove is on the bottom of the rocker box and be sure you don't remove so much material that you eat into that seal crevice. Hope that helps. If you email me I can send you the head stud diagram and instructions from ARP which shows the head stud numbers and locations and the graphic of material removal off the rocker box.

Hi Terry and thanks for the email you sent as well. See the reply there.

Good tip. Just blew out the bolt holes.

shweller The pacbrake was on the truck when I purchased it. However, I called Pacbrake asking if the Banks Ram Air intake would mount with the pacbrake. They said it was incompatible with their current mount for the pacbrake but that mine was an earlier generation mount which allowed the Intake to fit after I ground off some of the embossed lettering from the intake. So in short, I believe it is the stock Pacbrake mount from about 2007 or so. Good luck with your head studs. Happy to send the detailed instructions if you email me. Email is at the end of the video.

Greg Porter Thank you for taking the time to reply to my question. I completed the job and am happy with the results and the piece of mind. Keep up the great content.

Gee that’s a bummer. A tap can remove metal which we don’t want. The thread chaser recommended and sold by ARP is not a tap, per my conversation with them, because it is designed to only remove debris from within the threads rather than cutting metal as a tap would. Unfortunately Their tool is not long enough to reach through the head to the bottom of the hole. If it were me I would first take two old bolts, cut the head (and the correct amount of the shaft) off one and weld it to the other, thus creating a long enough bolt to reach the bottom of the hole. Maybe even grind the tip to a bit of a point to help with penetration into the debris and once the debris is broken loose a bit then grind the bolt back flat to ensure threads are cleaned clear to the bottom. Actually, You could build two thread chasers from 4 bolts with one of them being pointed... if that didn’t work then maybe buy ARP’s thread chaser and weld an old bolt to it. I’d try all that before pulling head. Oh, and in the old bolts, take a die grinder and cut 4 equidistant vertical grooves through and perpendicular to the bolt threads, kind of like a tap is done, to allow somewhere for the thread debris you break loose to go.

Hi Alex, It was on the truck when I bought it, but I have had conversations with the Pacbrake folks and have learned that it is an older design from about 2007. They say their current design won't mount right with a Banks Monster Air Horn. I installed the Banks Air Horn and had to do some grinding on the side of it to get clearance to the Pacbrake. I'd suggest calling and talking with the folks at Pacbrake about options.

The Pacbrake is a brand of on board air compressor. The compressed air primarily is used to flip the exhaust brake butterfly closed in the exhaust system to slow the engine and drivetrain without using up your brake pads. Mine also is used to air up after market air bags on the rear axle and provides an air port to fill tires if needed.

Greg Porter thanks

Hi Sandra, my email is shown at the end of the video. No computer coding changes needed with the injectors.

Yes, that’s what happens, and along with the stronger steel of these studs, they are intended to hold the head more securely to the block, thus allowing greater cylinder pressures without blowing a head gasket.

Hi Timothy. I would need your email address to do that. My email address is shown at the end of the video. If you email me I will reply to your email with the instructions.

waylonclyde@gmail.com

Timothy Dean: I Just sent the instructions. Check your spam folder if it’s not in your inbox

Thank you so much