Looks dope and I’m sure you could drive with the red option without it being “illegal” in most places because they only allow red on the rear of a vehicle.
Your ideas and creativity is doing great on this project. But your methods of installation need a bit of refinement. Grab yourself a set of knockout punches, it will produce a nice clean hole for projects like this. I got myself a cheap Pittsburgh set from Harbor Freight, they work well for a cheap set. Also run down to your hardware store and get some grommets to line the holes with. Even a clean hole will eventually cut into the wiring from vibrations. Those little crimp on wire splicers are cheap and easy, but that is the only good thing I can say about them. Sooner or later the wire will corrode away in that spot. And the crimp on butt connectors are no better. I have also seen in cases where they did not bite down on one of the wires correctly and had no connection or intermittent connection. Solder and heat shrink is the best method for splicing. They make butt connectors that are heat shrink with low-melting solder, so when you heat it up with your heat gun you shrink down the sleeve and melt the solder into the joint at the same time. Even when I install a spade or eyelet connector, I remove the plastic sheathing, crimp the connector onto the wire, then solder the connector to the wire, I then finish up with heat shrink on the wire and connector as needed. Electrical tape is convenient, but not a good moisture barrier in the long run. For securing wires and cables there are several solutions with zip ties. They make a push mount tie that can be pushed into a hole and secures itself in the hole. I got some of this style but have never used them. There other common tie design has a hole that you can run a screw/bolt though to be fastened to a surface. I use this design for my projects; it is more secure, I can get a lower profile, and it often looks cleaner. Also with your wiring projects get a 50’ or 100’ roll of split loom tubing. I recommend starting off with a roll of 1/4” and 1/2” sized tubing. This tubing will help protect your wires and cables, and will keep the installation looking clean and professional. If your going to do a lot of mods that will require electricity, I would suggest getting something like the 8-gang switch panel from auxbeam. I got one for when I get my TRD Pro in to run lights and a winch with. It is a very clean and compact design with both the switch panel and relay/fuse box that will help you keep things looking professional.
Damm mark every time you do something to ur truck u give me new ideas for mine , slow down bro I can’t keep up jk. 😂 anyway those truck bed lights look sick man , awesome truck 👊🏼👊🏼
Looks great. I'm going to try and install puddle lights under the truck tied into the courtesy lights. Didn't realize on the 2022 SR5 there are no door lights and at night with my predator steps kids can't see where they are stepping. Should help. We go camping alot and they would LOVE the RGB in the back. Might give it a whirl. Keep the vids coming bro! Peace from CO.
From Texas, in and out is the last choice for me but I did try a double double once. If you have a Whataburger nearby.. a Bacon cheeseburger toast the bun both sides, Mayo instead of mustard, extra Whataburger seasoning on the meat patty, with grilled onions.
Any advise on running the power wire from the battery back to the tail light? Also, looking for how I can tie into the cab mounted bed light power line and get a wire out of the cab. If I use a diode inline with the cab light power, I can wire up the LED lights so it can be powered from that light when you open a door or when turn you use the switch provided with the kit. The diode will prevent power from going backwards to the cab light.
On Amazon it’s saying that the white only option isn’t compatible. Seems odd. I went with the multi-colored option but will hardly ever use them either.
The only way you can get a true white is with the RGBW lights that have a separate white diode. Any RGB is colour mixing and will not give you a true white.
T Taps are terrible, they break the wire and after a short time of vibrating a really nice short. Never, Never use anything less than heat shrink connectors.
