OK, NOW IM BEGINNING TO BELIEVE THIS GUYS JUST MAKING COMEDY VIDEOS. TUNE IN NEXT WEEK TO WATCH HIM INSTALL WINDSHIELD WIPERS ON THE LIGHTS HE PUT IN THE WHEEL WELLS, LMFAO
She looks great.. have watched all your vids on this rig and really enjoyed your work and completion of the good and the bad of it.. good luck with her in the future..thanks for sharing your work and all...
Mike my friend I died laughing when you threw dirt all over yourself when the wife was coming. One day on the farm my boss did the same thing when he seen his wife coming!!!! Hahahahaha
Glad to see you're having fun working on the old girl. I was lucky enough to have my kind girlfriend help me change out the water pump, fan belt, and radiator in my 580ck a couple weekends ago. Theres no way i coulda got it in by myself without destroying the new radiator! Btw...something that makes it way easier when changing the radiator out is replacing the bottom hose with a silicone hose. That way it can go straight down and the soft silicone hose can stretch onto the radiator outlet "nipple" easy peezy.
I just tightened the fan belt on mine and noticed the belt is not the best. It looks like to replace the belt i will have to remove the hydraulic pump. Did you have to with yours?
@@mikekisch5563you can remove the 4 bolts from the pump drive into the damper on the crankshaft, slide the drive forward on the splines (it isnt enough room at that point to get belt in and out yet..only about 1/8" once the drive is slid forward away from the crank damper), loosen the two bolts that mount the pump, and carefully pry the pump forward , just enough to create space for the belt to slip out/in. Mind you, i did mine with the radiator removed so that does make a difference. I also have the "ck" so there is a little bit of difference in the machines. So short answer...no i didnt remove it , i just loosened it. I had to soak the drive splines of the pump drive shaft with PB Blaster to get it to slide. Theres a grease zerk on the drive which is very important that it is lubed for crankshaft endplay and pump drive endplay. I think if this belt goes out ill try a link belt before i go through all that again. Got a new radiator for $245.00 off ebay. Its much thinner than the original and i had to cut some of the shroud with a cuttoff wheel to clear the fan. It was a test fit 3 times. Also i installed the water pump, fan, and belt before i put the radiator in....very, very , tight fit. Hope that made sense and wasnt too much info! Happy Thanksgiving mister!
@@shitindawoodsbear5956 When we work on the older JCB's with a single belt/ shaft drive off the front, we put the new belt on the pulleys. then take another new belt, feed it over the shaft when it's apart then tie it out the way so it don't catch anything that turns. As long as the machines not leaking oil on it, there is a new belt ready to put on the next time there is belt issue. It saves one tear down before you do the same with another belt failure. Never done a case, but wondering if that might work for you guys to. There is probably no reason why you couldn't put a couple spares on, But they might be rotten before they got used. I had a machine with a 25 year old spare belt on wasn't any good when I got the machine used. Maybe doing this stops the belts failing so often L.O.L
@@super6954 I used to work on equipment before strictly engines at several Cat dealers and we'd do the same! I didnt do it on mine because i was so angry at the price I paid for one belt where i live!!! Ill probably regret it 😁
@@shitindawoodsbear5956 Whats a belt worth then if it was that bad, some I don't buy from main dealers here . I'm in Canada the land of getting bent over without lube for parts prices L.O.L .
@@mikekisch5563 Hi Mister Mickey, if you are gracious, I have a malfunction in the 580l case. If the transmission is put forward, the excavator does not move, and if it is placed back, the fault is returned in the front only. What do I check by virtue of your experiences? Thank you for your cooperation
@@aboazzamhariri3129 1) fluid 2) the clutch cutout solenoid. I noticed my switch for the brake pedal will sometimes cause the solenoid to stay closed. also check to make sure the drive shaft is not spinning could be a rear end issue. you can pull the pan and check to make sure the filter is clean.
worst case is its an internal issue ( seal or clutch plates) , but i would try to make sure it is not something simple before i pulled the transmission. thats the worst feeling going to great lengths to fix something and then find out is something simple.
@@mikekisch5563 Put the front bucket flat on the ground and jack your outriggers right up and pull the bucket and secondary arm in all the way to get the weight in tight. Start with the primary arm down slightly and pull it up and right when it reaches over center, switch direction with the primary control. Keep your head back so you don't smash it with the arm. Hope that helps... If all else fails, you can fold everything tight and back into a tree to push the arm in. It should lock on it's own
@@mikekisch5563 Sounds good! Don't extend anything because you want the center of gravity to be as close to the backhoe as possible. Everything in tight...
@@super6954 I am glad for the support. I agree a 1000 set of tires might add 500 value on an old piece of equipment. I am dealing with the value issue on the Brakes right now. So one brake works fine to get the other brake working i will need to spend about 400 dollars for seals and brake parts. Now if i were to sell the machine would I get 600 or 700 more out of the machine with both breaks working fine?
@@mikekisch5563I would be thinking you maybe got this one to use more than sell. I don't know demand and value in your area. Round here they are total junk, short supply the day you want a mid range machine for the farm or acreage. or the high end of over $30.000 for what might be a good one to use 20-40 hours a week. What value do you put on the use instead of renting one your self/ or driver hire machines. Before you maybe sold it at break even/slight actual real cash money loss, at worst option if there wasn't a profit. Having not paid for example 10.000 to somebody else, and selling your own machine you have 8000 in was still cheap if you got 6750-$7500 at the end. Personally to me with my equipment and with customer machines I fix, brakes is a big safety issue regardless of cost. Any serious injury, loss of life prevented is worth way more than the saving on those parts/time doing it . Especially on an industrial /farm machine with independent braking were it could slew steer one way hitting the working pedal in an emergency. Thats your choice / risk and consequences if something happens though, or you sell it and somebody tries to come after you if they get hurt, in this sue happy modern world .
did you get the new injector yet ? Still sounds like its missing. Dont worry with the paint for several months because you are gonna be finding several little things you wanna change and fix , dont want to scratch it all up doing the work until its all done mechanically !!
some of the clatter might calm down once you get her to work, i just hear it and it sounds a little off. Kinda hard to tell exactly through a computer speaker also. work the heck out of it, fix what breaks leave the rest alone ,,,lol
