Another homemade method is to use two disposable stems as the saw guide. As for the cutting blade you can also use a wolfram one, the one used for cutting ceramic tiles. Black with some diamond powder coating on the blade. Park tool uses it in its saws but you can get an indentical in a hardware store for couple of bucks.
I used a hose clamp and a very sharp hacksaw blade to do my steerer too. Works a treat as long as you're careful and double check all your measurements before taking the plunge!
General rule of thumb on carbon steerers: Cutting the steerer off below the stem's top surface is not recommended. Ideally you want one spacer ABOVE the stem to ensure the stem is clamping completely on the steerer tube.
thanks again, interesting vid and the subsequent discussion on cutting below the stem level as you did or keeping it above the stem to resist crushing / warranty issues. Have to say I'm confused now! A big issue for riders of older bikes like myself (Mendiz ally frame, 1" steerer, ally threaded headset & fork) is upgrading the fork - in my case due to a "coming together" with an e-scooter resulting in a bent ally fork. Would be great to see a vid on upgrading to carbon fork for example and moving to threadless headset. Perhaps it doesn't apply to you given your fine collection of bikes but perhaps you have a cheapskate mate (like me!) who wants it done???? I've no idea how many of us are out there riding older bikes but I'm sure I'm not the only one. Stay safe.
Nice video, just about to do this to mine. One thing, instead of lowering your stem, I reckon flipping it over would of had the same effect but looked better. Probably just me but I'm not keen on the look of a stem with a positive rise.
Dave Hughes wait stems are supposed to rise? I never thought that. Even with 17° 130mm stems, i always flipped them. Always thought"more aero" i often asked myself why bike shops assemble them reversed O.o
Hey, Oz! do you have any advice on cutting down a Canyon steerer tube? As you know they use the Acros headset so the compression comes from under the stem rather than the standard headset/topcap pulling the steerer up from above. My issue is that with the standard headset there is a decent tolerance of a mm or so but with there being no 'pull' from a top cap on a Canyon headset then any spacers above the stem would have to be perfectly flush with the top of the steerer or else the spacer could rattle if the steerer is too long or the top cap won't fit back into the steerer if it's cut too short. Would you recommend just adding a normal headset to negate the problem? Thanks in advance!
Im not all that familiar with the Acros preliad system but carbin spacers are available in 2,3,5 &10mm increments. Or perhaps try a soft plastic/rubber spacer that want rattle.
You can but carbon fiber will eventually blunt the cutter. Pipe cutters also leave a ragged end which will require quite a lot of filing to finish. Best to use a fine tooth hacksaw.
4:48 that is the wrong plug to use, you need a compression plug that fully engages the entire length of the attachment arm. That plug is basically compressing only the top and bottom and the middle is having a negative compressed force from the up and down forces with nothing to support it in the middle. I would use a plug that goes past 10 mm past the bottom bolts.
Dr. Oz, do you subscribe to the having a 5mm spacer on top vs no spacer? I know you just cut yours flush, so the question may be mute, but just curious because many bike manufacturers suggest a 5mm spacer at the top. Thanks...
Having steerer protrude above top of stem is to prevent crushing the cut end of the steerer. Ive never had a problem with flushing a steerer with stem but having 5mm above would be good practice...exept the pros, everything has to be slammed and aero 😂
@@stevenleffanue I just cut mine and using a 5mm spacer just in case there's ever a warranty issue; don't want to give the company a reason to brush me off. I suspect it would not be a problem, but the companies are covering their butts I'm sure. Yeah, the pros want it slammed, which is fine for them, they have sponsors that will replace stuff for them. Thanks for the reply.
There’s a reason why you loose guarantee if you’re cutting a tube like this with no overstay.We have seen many failures due to false stem/fork montage. Don’t risc your life just to have a cleaner look on your bike
@@stevenleffanue outside, i noticed some flaking after i set the stem for marking to set the cutting, i am worried thatbi might affect the integrity of the fork steerer
If the flaking is clear to light grey in colour its ok,it will be some outer epoxy but if the mark on the steerer is deep it would be wise to take the fork to a carbon repair specialist for advice.
You should never cut a steerer tube lower than where the top bolt of the stem clamps. You are offering terrible advice to people that may not know any better. you should take this video down before someone gets hurt.
