You should only have to do it once as long as you only lightly sand it afterwards. You only want to take off the little fibers that have swelled up. If you go too deep and open up new grain you'll have to water pop it again.
When making an edge grain cutting board does the grain orientation play a role - can I eg. place a walnut stripe all the way around - so two of the sides go across the grain? Does it make the board weaker when getting in contact with water etc.?
It is not recommended to have a strip of wood going perpendicular to the grain of the other pieces. Similar to not mixing the edge grain and end grain, the pieces will want to expand across their width, not along their length. If you have two pieces that want to expand in different directions it could lead to a failure of that joint.
Good question....A cutting board may go through wet/dry conditions, thus making wood movement an issue. For this reason we do not suggest mixing Face & Edge/End Grain designs. You would not like the possible separation of it!
great video. I do have a question about grain. you mentioned defiantly don't mix end grain with edge grain but I cannot find the answer about mixing edge grain with face grain. For example I am making 2 panels to crosscut and turn into an edge grain cutting board. the majority of the panels will be cut from 8/4 walnut however I want to add some hard maple strips in there but I only have 4/4 maple. Is it ok to cut the 4/4 maple into 2 inch strips and turn them on their edge and glue them to the walnut to make the panels? I am thinking because they are both long grain direction it will be ok. I think. the finished board will all be ingrain facing up and down. Please help me with understanding this. Thank you in advance
Ideally you would have all of the grain running the same way. face+edge isn't as bad as end+edge because there are typically less pieces. Make sure it stays oiled up and you shouldn't have a problem either way.
Great information. Now if I can only remember it all. I'll be going into my Woodcraft store soon and will see about picking up one or two kits. I'd like some clarification on the finishing process. I have seen some people will do as you did for applying the finish. But, others will create a bath of mineral oil and will simply submerge the board in the bath for a while. Which is best/better? Are there pro's and con's to these methods?
You're just looking to saturate the fibers of the board. I don't make a ton of boards or have the extra space to dedicate to a tub of mineral oil so I just pour it on until it stops soaking it up. Either way is fine.
Can you use most hardwoods for a cutting board? Specifically, does oil content in the wood matter? I had purchase some miscellaneous hardwood boards from Woodcraft recently (purple heart, maple, hackberry, niove) and was intending to use for a mallet build but would like to consider these woods for a cutting board as well.
Thank you for the video. I have seen some face grain boards that have end grain glue ups. Since cutting boards don't see much structural stress, are the end grain glue ups ok?
It really depends on usage. Will it DEFINITELY fall apart? No, but the pieces will move differently when exposed to moisture, and it will get washed, you are increasing your chances of having an issue.
Yes, you can glue face grain to edge grain. When you rip/cut the edge grain pieces, cut them to the same thickness of your face grain pieces. I make my cutting boards using edge grain at 1.5 inch thick.
Just a Whiteside chamfer bit. I believe it was this one. www.woodcraft.com/products/whiteside-2306-chamfer-router-bit-1-2-sh-1-1-16-cl-x-3-4-ch-2-1-2-ol