I just did mine today using this split boot. Worked like a charm and is the way to go if your axel is still good. My shop wanted $700 to replace the whole axel and, after buying a couple of tools I managed to keep the cost well under $80. I cannot stress out enough how important is to preserve the lip of the original boot that goes towards the transmission in place if you’re replacing that one. Cut out the old boot around the edge without removing the original strap. Once the old boot is out, then cut out the old strap away (ask me how I know). That end of the axel is oddly shaped in my car (2007 A4) and you need the original boot’s end because it matches the contour of the part and will give you a nice flat round shape to slide in your new boot into. If you don’t use it, the grease will leak out and water will get inside. IT IS VERY CRITICAL not to install the split boot directly to the axel end side.
I'm a mechanic and would love these to work, it's worth a try but just how strong is that glue. These rubbers have to flex and stretch on on every turn, it would have been good to see a follow up after a few days drive.
Its not glue but vulcanising solution if im correct, it melts a little of each side of the boot and welds them together like a bicycle repair which can hold forty psi pressure.
My experience with split cv boots have not been good. IMHO they are a temporary solution. This is true especially in areas with heavy snow and road salt use. I tie two zip ties in the middle for added strength because that glue really does not hold up to weather conditions
Years ago after doing it the right way and realizing how hard it was : when it happened again on my old car, I never had anything other, and it only had to last another year or two, I glued the old cracked rubber using bicycle patches, very carefully cut to take the bends on the rubber, cleaning it, sanding it. It lasted long enough and kept the dirt out . I felt I had completely cheated on all mechanical principles but I was not a mechanic. Now I see a video like this and am amazed.
Greetings from Ireland! Streuth mate what a good video. Have to do this on my wifes 25 year old Corolla...feel more competent about it now. Many thanks!!
The Dorman split CV boot kit, uses a half-dozen little bolts and nuts INSTEAD of the glue idea. This seems more reliable to me because the constant flexing of the CV joint is sure to weaken a glued seam over time.
@@kennztube There is a Dorman brand on Amazon that uses simple loctite super glue, not any type of volcanizing solution. I guess the take-away is make sure you know what you're ordering.
@@dr.emilschaffhausen4683 Sorry for the last reply it didn’t work for me was liking about an inch to wrap around the biggest part of the CV shaft on a Chevy pickup
As a Subaru owner I have tried the split boots a few times, Subaru front axile boots never seemed to last a long time. A complete waste of time for me. They could not handle the job. Be interesting to survey people's success with split boot repairs. I just had to pony up the $ to do it right. BTW: cheap after market axiles are a gamble to.
Interesting. I had good success until I sold the car. And would use again. Especially as I had 2 day to get the job done before my car was out of the road unregistered. For me it was great as it was a quick fix to keep the car registered and in the road after getting the old one flagged in rego check.
I replaced mine today, it worked fine. Let us see how long it lasts. If it doesn't last long, i will just buy another, only took 30mins. but it should last years.
Curious if this is still holding after 3yrs? They make a tool to pull the metal strap tight. Normally you don't see boots last if you only pull the metal tab by hand / no tool .. or... if you get grease on the metal surface under the boot where the strap squeezes down. Glad they make a split kit like this though.
Good video mate. 👍 I'm just about to replace the gaiter on my Vauxhall /opel Astra van in the UK. I was going to buy the split gaiter like this for a quick fix ,but ended up buying an original closed one . Its not too bad a job to fit one ,but yes itll take a longer . Also got to change a track rod end on the other side too . All good fun 😁
used this before they are good but in time the outer side will slide off with all that grease on the cv joint ledge where you fitted the retaier clip ,you should avoid getting grease on the edge of the cv joint for a dry fit !!
@@rudeboz5486 thanks man. Did one side today. I ended up using the straps you use on intake hoses and stuff. The one that gets tightened with a flathead. The strap thst comes with it is pretty garbage. Let's see how it holds up. How long has yours held up?
When I change my oil/filter every 5000 miles . I'm able to use a mechanics lift and I liberally spray all rubber components / parts underneath with 303 Protectant . This really helps them to resist drying out and cracking . Though so expenisve here now at $65.00 a gallon !!!
Good stuff, thanks for the video mate. Will try that soon on my 2005 Touareg. Just a thought... would it have been easier to first apply the grease, then put the boot in place including over the inner and outer flanges, and then glue it together possibly supported by a flexible something. That might avoid the trouble of having to pull that stiff boot over the ends and risk splitting it at the seam? BTW the ebay links below do not appear to take you to this product that you used, it seems to be something else? Wonder where to buy or source this.
This seems to be a very good way to repair, but what is the hold over time, after a year of use?? I have some doubts about the strength of the bonding, especially if a little bit grease has touched the glued part ??
I just sold the car and it was still going strong. Even if it split again it was a good quick cheep way to get the car to pass rego check, I would do this again each year for inspection rather than pull the entire thing apart. Saying that it seemed to be holding up. Way better than I expected
It just doesn't give the fizz man. Remanufactured better. Maybe in a pinch tho. This from a guy that ran a corolla with no boot for 5 years, just hose it down with alil wd40 then rub it down with grease about every week or so. If you're from Oklahoma you don't even need that sillay boot just run the thing strait into the ground
You should have dry fitted everything 1st to ensure all is fitting correctly BEFORE you actually fit it. Also, don't glue it all at once, 1-2cm sections as you get better sealing.
I put the glue on the boot AFTER i had the boot over the axle shaft. The halves of the boot do not magically line up, so manipulating is necessary. It seemed to hold, I don't remember how long it lasted. I did like the metal clamp boot better as it seemed more secure.
Thanks. I definitely need this fix since I don't have time or tools now to take out my old axle (which appears in good condition). It will at least buy me a year (maybe more) til I can rebuild the axles,
Merci beaucoup , Nice and clear images no disturbing crazy music, I really enjoyed Watching you Sharing your Time and knowledges. Sylvain from Bécancour Québec Canada.
fabulous explanation, love the way you explain in detail whats needed and even give advice regarding sharp edges etc. will definitely be giving this a go with my beemer. Nice to have a simple video with no silly music or people trying to act when its not necessary. definitely the clearest explanation I have seen yet. Thank you so much, Ian. (UK)
It helps to glue little sections at a time and hold tight to glue it perfect. Better to fold tabs with flathead screw driver and press on the locked staps with a wide mouth grip pliers or punch chisel.
Hi, good day, your post is really of great help, can you possibly provide us the link where to buy this stuff, I need it for Ford ecosport, thanks a lot.
Tried it, but it is very stiff stuff. More like plastic than rubber. The flange is stepped to fit various CV joints. Problem is, one step was too large and could not be clamped down to fit as it was too stiff. The next smaller step was too small and would not stretch at all to fit. Threw it away and instead used one of those stretchy slip-over boots
hi, very nice video on how to save lots of time and money. thanks a lot. May I ask? have you observed about the durance of the boot? I mean is it really reliable?
Thanks, great video. I realize it was hard to do and do the video and it was a bit irksome , lol, but a great deal easier than removing the bearing and all without ruining them.
How much time will the glue wait before setting up while you are trying to put the boot on the wrong way till you figure it out. Just asking for a friend that has had bad experience with quick setting glue.
I didn’t have that much time. I suggest doing a dry fitting before you glue it up then you know which way it all needs to go before you ad the glue. Make sure you hold it firm till it sets
Boa noite Amigo ! Preciso de um kit desta coifa ! Tem como you enviar o número do código pra que Eu possa comprar aqui no Brasil ! Fico agradecido pela sua atenção ! Forte abraço .
