Awesome video! I was able to follow along. 1st time CZ - SP01 take down (that far). Had a few issues when it came to taking out the sear housing. but was able to adjust and continue. The parts make the trigger pull much lighter then original and I feel more secure in having solid pins instead of the [cylinder?/spiral?/folder] pins. I also purchased your guide rod, the solid steel vs plastic/rubber guide rod is major improvement. The original rubber 1 just seems lazy on CZ's part. (or cash flow). You guys are Awesome! Will definitely be purchasing from you again. Ever think about working with Canik firearms? I like mine a ton, great gun out of the box, but I don't find much for it. (it was supposed to be the new glock replacement, but I think shadow systems may take that title) Thank you for your work. -VERY appreciative customer.
I successfully placed the kit in my PCR! What I found troubling was installing the slave pin to release the cage. What I did in order to keep the whole assembly together was using a slimmer punch than the slave pin to get the slave pin all the way through. Another problem was the decocker lever. It is only on one side of the frame. To release it, I moved the long arm of the seer spring up and then pushed the decocker lever from the other side of the frame. Also, when removing the seer pin and replacing it I approached from the opposite side with the longer cage pin so that I would not have any problem with the tiny spring. All went very well and am very happy with your product.
About 6 months ago I installed the M*Carbo Trigger Spring Kit on my CZ 75B; it went well, although I did have some moments wondering if it was going to come out all right. It did, and my 75B shoots better & easier now than ever before! Recently I got a CZ 75 P-01, with the aluminum frame and decocker. It was pretty good out of the box, but I'd already found out what a tremendous improvement the trigger spring kit does, I was itching to get this kit installed in my new gun. But... When I'd hammer out a pin in my 75B, it came out easily after the initial bond was broken; not so on the aluminum frame, it required a lot more hammering & even then the pins didn't come out easily. The next big problem was that my P-01 didn't have ambidextrous decocker levers; eventually I found that one of the springs in the sear cage was holding the lever in, so finally I got that out. Then the biggest problem of all, so far: there was a steel washer holding in the sear cage pin on the left side. Nowhere, and I mean NOWHERE, is there any information that I could find telling me how to remove this washer; but at last I got it out, using a 1/16 punch & hammering it at a slant. Finally, I got the sear cage out, ready to put in the new springs! Then I was expecting things to get really hard, since I've heard all kinds of talk about how difficult it is to replace the springs in the sear cage; it was almost a letdown to find out that this part went fairly smoothly. A few little difficulties, but overall not a problem. I was sure looking forward to getting the pistol back together & see how it all went! All that was left was the trigger pin & spring, and the hammer spring. Hammer spring was no problem at all, it went right in. I wasn't expecting any problems from the trigger spring & pin, on my 75B that was a piece of cake; but oh, how wrong I was! The old trigger pin in the P-01 wasn't going to move. I hammered & hammered, didn't budge it. I was worried I was going to break something if I hammered any harder. Finally I got a bit of movement, and I thought it would soon be out; oh no it wasn't. I hammered a lot more, got it about halfway out, then hammered it back in, hoping to ease it out by moving it back & forth. It was still in there tight. So I got some gun oil & lubed the pin, then hammered it back & forth some more. I finally did get it out, but couldn't use the method described here since I couldn't get the new trigger pin to move easily enough, but since putting the spring in using a tool wasn't hard (that's how I did my 75B) I just concentrated on getting the old pin out first. Finally I succeeded; but then putting the new trigger return spring in became extremely difficult. I guess I was spoiled by the 75B with its steel frame, I had no trouble at all doing that one. Finally, after about 50 different attempts over two days, I slipped while trying to get the short leg of the new spring under the trigger return; spoing! went the spring, straight up in the air- never to be seen again. That was about an hour ago; I've now searched the whole room, vacuumed, rearranged everything, and cannot find that doggone spring (it'll show up after I've ordered a new one, that I know). So much for having a magnetic parts bowl! So now I'm ordering a replacement spring, or maybe two, and I'm hoping that I can figure out why the P-01 is SO MUCH HARDER to do this trigger spring job on, and how I'm going to get that damned spring in where it belongs, since so far I haven't been able to do it! (This video makes it look so easy, too; that's adding insult to injury, I reckon!)
Keep in mind that all factory pins in YOUR particular gun may have to be removed from the other side. I was having problems removing the original trigger retaining pin, until I realized that it was actually flared on the right side of the gun, and hit it a couple of times from the left side, at which point it came right out. Also, kit hammer spring is substantially longer relaxed than factory spring in P-01; it will still compress to the right size, once installed. Nice kit overall, definitely helps to smooth out single action. I decided not to mess with the sear spring, left the original for now.
It took me almost 3 hours to complete. I spent an hour trying to get the sear cage out. The shim in my kit was way thicker than in the video. So thick that I couldn’t get it in the sear, which is probably why I had so much trouble getting the cage out. The auxiliary pin would not go all the way though as the alignment was off at the far end of the frame. I eventually started fresh and really jammed the sear shim in this time. It’s very tight and probably helped me get the cage out. The firing pin retention pin was the hardest thing to push out. This is a great instructional video, but it doesn’t dive into how to remove the decocker. If you have a P01 model, there’s a couple of different steps. Cajun Gun Works has a video which dives into the P01 decocker removal. Watch it before you start if you have the P01.
This kit was easy to install. Swapping the sear spring was the easier than replacing the trigger spring. Excellent Kit from Mcarbo. Reduced my trigger pull by half. Unfortunately, the OEM pins were an absolute nightmare to remove. They were in there solid from the factory. Use the correct tools/punches and support the firearm properly for the direction of force applied. They will eventually move.
I just finished installing this kit on my CZ 75 B Omega. A couple notes on this. First, this gun comes with the improved trigger pin. Second, the sear system in this gun is very different from the one in other CZ 75's, so had to find another video about how to get to the sear spring on this model. Also, the little plastic pin that is supposed to be used as a slave pin to keep the trigger spring in place is less than useless. After fiddling around with it for a half an hour, I went back to my method of cutting a tooth pick down to the right size and using that as a slave pin. From there I used a small punch to push out the slave pin and hold the spring in place while I got the trigger pin started. Overall, it's an awesome kit and well worth the money, but it would be great if there was a more sturdy slave pin and maybe a video on installing this kit in the Omega..hint, hint :)
I've done two PO1s with the CGW parts, but in my opinion, this one is on par with theirs. Just remember that if you a virgin doing this on a single sided decoker you will have the cage pin behind a small retaining "washer " on the left side of the frame. You may have to manipulate the pin slightly to the right to slide the "washer " in it's pocket out. This "washer" is another thing that can be lost quickly. Also, I use a piece of sewing thread looped and tied thru the firing pin lifter spring and with the tag ends out the bottom of the cage assembly. You can pull down slightly to get the assembly pin into the cage right side and cut the loop and pull it out before inserting the cage in the frame.
Chris, really nice recovery of the firing pin block spring. Note to all: The firing pin block spring *will take any opportunity* to dislocate. It may even come flying out during disassembly such that you'll never know it happened. Worse, when you're 2 yards from the finish line, replacing the production seer pin, you might even SHEAR the dang thing because it wants to creep up and out of its place. Even worse, you may get it all back together, but just not quite right, so that during function check you shear it. During my rebuilds of my 6 CZ75s, I've done all the above. The first time I ran into issues I was certain I had gone beyond my abilities to recover without a trip to a sneering gunsmith. But I found you can recover from all these conditions with patience and a little ingenuity. I strongly recommend you have a couple of extras standing by.
Just completed this on a CZ 75 SP-01 Tactical. Great play by play on the video. Excellent warning on the decocker assembly. I started that process by losing the tiny spring. After a quick search, it was located and the rest of the process went smoothly-ish...lol. Thanks again and an AMAZING RESULT!
This was extremely helpful. A spring flew out while trying to put my slave pin in and I ended up having to reassemble the whole thing. Best video I've seen by far for reassembly of sear cage.
Chris: with out doubt the best video I've seen on the decocker. I replaced everything on mine except for the sear spring with a regular 75 kit from MCARBO and it made a huge difference. I'll be ordering a couple of stainless guide rods soon. Thanks for your support of the CZ platform.
Something to note, for the cz p01 that's manufactured in 2020, when taking out the decocker, there is a little disk that you need to slide out BEFORE you take it out. Also, for the newer 2020 models, the trigger pin is VERY hard to get out...so just an fyi Other than that, I successfully installed the kit! (took longer than I care to admit)...and man that sear cage is no joke...(1 and 1/2 hrs) getting the thing apart enough to swap the sear spring out...overall VERY happy with this kit! Would definitely recommend!!
@@Wednesdayswithjae once you get the decocker out, that's what I'm talking about the little washer you have to slide out to the left. Once you get that washer out, then you should be able to get the sear pin out (right to left) and I'd highly recommend you getting a slave pin and stick in the cage so you have everything together. Then you should be able to take the sear cage out and continue on with disassembly/installation of the spring(s). That was actually the part that took a while to find out, so I thought that I'd share on here so if anyone were to have that issue as well, they could get a hint/helper :)
Nathaniel Reyes I was able to take that small disc (washer) out but I wasn’t able to get the seat pin to move. Tried doing it from right to left. The pin from the right side is black looks like it was painted over. Left side is polished looks like a pin. Was thinking of punching it from left to right instead but I didn’t wanna mess anything up.
Thank you for the video. Its the best one period. Seems other so called top companies cant manage camera focus lights or the idea that fingers arent made of glass. You saved my sanity.
So, I just completed this kit on a sp01 tactical and the only suggestion I would make as far as the video is when taking out the decocker, you have to lift up on the sear spring to be able to pull it out. You have this minor detail in the reassembly but not in the takedown. Other than that, the video made the whole process almost "easy". In all honesty, it was watching the video that made me think that I could do it myself so I jumped at ordering the kit. Most other videos show what to do but you can actually SEE what to do in your video. Good stuff and thanks for the awesome kit!
Wish i had seen this video before i installed the cajun kit in my pcr, omg ,it took me about 5 hours to get it back together...thank you for a very conscice detailed video as i have 2 more CZ's awaiting this upgrade... awesome video
Great kit. I just installed it on my SP-01 Tactical and the difference is night and day. The decocker is way easier to activate, too. One note on the video: You skipped over how to remove the decocker bar. It's captured by the front leg of the sear spring, which must be lifted a bit.
@@j.t.jackson5545 I took one apart tonight to change out a trigger shoe. This popped up in my feed so I thought why not. When he skipped that part I thought somebody is going to be pulling and prying on that left side decocker lever not knowing all that’s holding it is that spring leg. 😂
The smaller pin that comes from the grip (upper magazine brake pin) can serve well as a take down pin for the sear if you're not changing the springs but for example replacing the hammer, or disconnector or the mainspring strut.
Just did this replacement and it was a pain. It took me 5 hours to complete but I had never done anything like this before. The "slave" pin ended up falling out of the sear cage, forgot the tape, but with the references in this video, I was able to get it put back together. It was a great kit and would recommend it to anyone wanting a lighter trigger for their CZ-75. And thanks for the awesome tutorial! Couldn't have done it without you!
I bought the kit this morning after making an appointment and driving to the shop from Tampa. First let me just say that I am very pleased with the results. After running a box of ammo through it all seems great. Much lighter and smoother trigger pull in double and single action. The double action feels lighter than my wonderful 50 year old SW model 15 revolver. I can even stage the trigger on the SP-01 now. As to the installation...I did have a problem with the firing pin block lever staying aligned while I installed the firing pin. My block lever is round and not T shaped like the one in your tutorial and it kept trying to rotate and interfere with the firing pin as it was being pushed in. After some difficulty I managed to get the trigger return spring seated and slid into the frame. I am not brave enough to attempt the removal of the sear cage. Thanks for the great product and I guess I am going to try to upgrade my P-07 next.
Ive done a P01 and a PCR with one of your competitors kits. You did a great job on the installation of your kit. Im impressed. You used some tricks that would have made my life easier a few years ago. Good video.
AWESOME Video. Thank you. Without any condescension whatsoever or any talking down to anyone (me:) you’ve managed to explain and show how to do something that otherwise would have been a complete fantasy. I could talk someone down off a ledge but ask me to “take a look” at the garage door opener and
Just completed my trigger job for my CZ 75 D compact PCR. It wasn’t the full trigger job, i held off on doing the sear pin, as I wanted to see by not doing that, how much trigger pull reduction I would get. Let’s just say I very happy with the results. I had an issue at first, nothing to do with the trigger spring kit, it had to do with cheap Roll pin punches. I bent my roll pin punch when working on punching out the firing pin retaining pin on the slide. She is a stubborn beast of a Pin. I purchased a new set of roll pin punches, in addition to some Grace starter roll pin punches which are shorter and tougher to get her started. Punch that pin out from right to left, and insert the new one going from left to right. I had purchased the floating trigger pin as well. Make note, in my case I was pounding right to left to try and get the original pin out and that was a no go. For mine the pin needed to be punched out from Left to right. Both are very easy jobs, if you have the right tools. Not sure if I will do the sear spring job, as this will be Concealed carry gun and I’m very happy with the results based on what I’ve completed so far. Very satisfied customer.....
This kit makes the SA very light - great for hitting targets but no bueno for self defense. Always CCW in decocked mode. Your adrenaline will easily pull the heavier DA.
I’m the type of carpenter that can measure three times and still cut it wrong. So after I break my CZ 75 BD in I believe I’ll just send it to you experts that will get it right the first time. Great video for schematic knowledge.
I had the Cajun Pro kit for my 75-BD took me 4 days abt. 4/5 hours each day to get everything back together. Had ALL PARTS of gun spread out on work table. Send in and save mental stress.
Just finished putting kit in my P01. Not difficult. Hammer spring was significantly longer than factory spring. Did not remove sear cage. I used the slave pin to push sear pin back until just holding decocker spring. When I removed sear spring, decocker spring tension pushed it over, but I could hold it with a pick and use needle nose to push new spring into position. If I had a fourth arm, I would have taken photo, but I was using all 3 of my arms to hold spring, insert spring, and push pin. Will try out tomorrow. So far, seems like significantly lighter SA and DA pull weight.
Great video and great spring kit. My first attempt working on my SP-01 Tactical, and I was successful thanks to MCARBO! I'm a fan of you guys for sure.
Made it ! Took some brain work and learning your techniques but I made it through. My p01 is a little different than yours on the decocking , mine only have left side lever. Sear pin has a washer little disk on the left side, covering the pin. That throws me off for a minute. Took me about 2 hours … but I made it to the end. .. The trigger spring technique there with the applier took me awhile to get lol
Hey! I just finished your kit install on my PCR. The video pretty much walks you through it. Everything went smoothly and the trigger pull is very nice now! While I was at it, I went ahead and installed a P-01 stock trigger. They have a lot less of a fish hook curve than the PCR trigger. I do have a CGW kit on my P01. Of course it’s wonderful, but 40 bucks for your kit and it’s just hard to justify the money for the CGW kit. If you guys had a way to install a reach reduction kit of some sort, I believe you would pretty much corner the market on your kit. All in all, your kit is perfect for a carry pistol. Thanks!! Also, for anyone with a PCR, when you pull the decocker lever out, there is a little round washer that holds the sear pin from walking towards the lever of the decocker. You just have to get a punch that’s small enough to fit in the little hole of that washer and slide it out. My PCR sear pin was VERY tight. I couldn’t just push the slave pin in and had to get a punch and give it a good whack to loosen it. Just be sure to hold towards the frame on the punch so it only moves enough to get the sear pin moving.
I bought a captured trigger pin (not sure if it where from these guys) but I had to reduce the diameter of the pin somewhat to make it fit my pre-b CZ 75. Before i filed it down it didnt go through without use of alot of force. But once filed down a tiny bit, it slide through like in the video. Either the previous owner gauled the pin channels, or the tollerances at CZ was a bit on the small side. But the pin is a great upgrade. now you can remove the trigger quite easily with minimal ammount of tools. Also nice tip with the plier, I always removed the trigger bar wich is a bigger jobb even on the safety version.
Whoot whoot! I just completed the upgrade by following this video. Lol had to rebuild the section with the multi springs. I was warned to use tape to hold the assembly tool in place, but was momentarily interrupted prior to applying the tape. Oh boy. That was scary but this video helped me regain focus and assembly is complete. Thank you!
I just completed everything but the decocker spring replacement because that is way too spooky for me after I had such an ordeal with the trigger pin. Turns out on my P-01 it was flared opposite to this SP-01 and after much banging and lube i successfully got it out. Found out however that the hole on the side i attacked the trigger pin from flared inwards, which prevented the trigger pin from seating itself properly. I very VERY slightly cleaned up the inside of the trigger pin hole with a 5/64 diameter drillbit and got it just wide enough where i could punch in the new floating trigger pin , and now it is seating properly.I installed everything but the decocker spring so far and my pistol feels great. Next install i think will be a short-reset system. Thanks for the video!
Woo Hoo! just finished installing the Trigger Spring Kit after having lost and found the Firing Lever Block Lever Spring (PITA). Also installed a Stainless Guide rod and Extra Power Recoil Spring. Now if only there were ammo.
Thank you so much for this upload brother, i havent found any other diy maintenance videos like this one! I have a cz 97b chambered in .45 acp, but a fellow cz owner told it has the same internals as the 75 and it does!
Honest feedback here. I performed all the MCarbo upgrades on my CZ PO1. It was my favorite firearm and my EDC. I never had an issue with it......ever. The upgrades were phenomenal, effective and delivered on every promise impacting trigger pull and the actual overall experience with shooting the pistol. The video's were also great but I had to refer to a separate video series to get the full picture due to missing information for the PO1 at certain steps along the way so do your homework. Also there is a reference while replacing the seer pin stating "dome" side at about 36:50 which was actually inaccurate and almost caused an issue for me. The video refers to a "dome" side and a "flat" side to the pin. The described "flat" side is actually "dome" shaped being rounded while the described "dome" side is actually "chamfered" with and angled slope to a "flat" end. The video is clear but the description is off. When you are engaged with delicate and intricate work you are paying attention to both and I came close to damaging the aluminum slide trying to punch the "dome" side back through while reinstalling the seer cage. Now about 3-4 hundred range rounds later, my PO1 will not engage the "double action". The initial single action trigger pull still works but is then a dead fish on the reset. I am not blaming the new springs, but I am not excusing them either. I will say that I never had an issue prior to the "upgrades" or the 4 or 5 visits to the range I have made since the change. As CZ's are known for their reliability and I never had an issue prior to the upgrades, I am at a loss as to another reason other than the "upgrades" I made. This being shared, if anyone has any additional information or feedback, I welcome them. I will be breaking down the firearm on my next day off and if I can't find a fix I will put all the original parts back in and consider this an investment in a lesson learned which would be hugely disappointing since I have been otherwise thrilled until this issue.
i pulled up 10 videos on how to fit the lifter arm spring in because i wasnt getting tension in the arm. No one had good enough resolution or could focus their camera longer than a few seconds until i found your video. Great camera work it goes a long way for some of us visual learners :) 25:44 was a perfect shot, i was able to see what i was doing wrong.
Excellent video! My BD pins were supper tight though. Yes, the little watch spring did fall out. I did manage to get it back in place. Whew. Thanks, again!
I put the CZ 75 Compact in to my Tristar T-100. I changed everything but the hammer spring. So I kept the DA at 10.5lbs but I'm getting 2.25lbs on my SA. Love it..
I’m strange but I actually prefer just taking everything out of the sear cage 😄 also a decent set of tweezers can make handling those springs 10xs easier. Also agree on the pick.
Bought the kit for my Jericho. It made a significant decrease in the single action and a reasonable reduction in the double action. Main difference being the de-cocker and firing pin is done in a significantly different way. So I didn't use those springs and skipped the slide steps. The way the Jericho is designed makes it much easier to remove and change the sear housing and it's parts as it's only got 1 spring instead of 2. I did use the sear housing spring, the trigger spring, the hammer spring, and the trigger pin is not flared and not quite the same as the CZ but the new one is better as its not a hollow pin. A nice kit and I look forward to seeing how it shoots when I get some range time. Regards from Canada as I am no longer able to buy better pistols and I'm stuck with what I got.
Thanks for the videos. Installed the kits for both my SP01 and P01. For some reason, it seems easier for me to take the sear cage apart. The little clear plastic for the sear is great as it helps hold everything together while pushing the pin through.
Do you know who has a good detailed video completely taking the sear cage apart and reassembling? I need to do more part installs then this video provided.
It was a little challenging but it was worth every minute of it mcarbo does such a great job thanks guys I really appreciate it. Everyone at the range loves this gun.
Chris: Just recieved my kit.I replaced everything except the sear spring. Definatly makes a difference allready. I have watched your video so many times. Going to tackle the sear tomorrow. Wish me luck!
@@nicholaslopez4804 yeah I did my P09 a couple years ago and I just allowed the sear assembly to come apart.... with the use of picks it was way easier for me than going this route with the keeper pin etc. Oh well, it worked out and now all 4 of my CZ's have awesome triggers!
Nope. I know my limits and will be sending my PCR to them to install for my PCR. Edited-. Rewatched this video a few times and decided to move forward with the trigger and hammer springs upgrades, floating pin, firing pin retaining pin, and a fiber optic front. Admittedly, the sear cage is beyond my capabilities, and I am not ready to tackle this. Thank you for this detailed video and I am subscribing to your channel because without it, there is no way I would be able to do this!
Just did this and my sear housing completely fell apart on me. Took a while to put it back together and got the whole thing done. Now to take it to the range and test it out 🤞🏽
this video was super helpful, I just finished putting the kit in my PCR, one thing though: No matter what I tried, I could not get the magazine spring to fully seat in the notch, which made it so even a full magazine wouldn't drop free. I removed about 1/4 inch from the little nub and it dropped in perfectly.
Gonna be able to pick up my CzP01 Next Monday, but due to work I cant get it till Friday but gonna place my order ! Gonna snag the Stainless Guid rod aswell, Thank u for the amazing products and videos
The magazine guide is not straight from the factory. See CZ exploded view. You don't have to straighten it out to reinstall but it looks like this method works too. Thanks for this video!
Thank you very much i just got a PO1 and was debating installing my Dawson persision sights myself but no. Ill send it to Cajun gun works and get the other stuff i was debating doing as well. This is easy the best video i have watched to get a idea of what internals of my gun is like that I have seen."I know this is different gun but still.
Learned a lot and kudos on hitting all the detail on the sear cage. Always a joy working on them. Not a decocker fan, but have to do one and feel confident after that super detailed view. Love your kits already 20+ deep on them. Keep up the fine work guys !!!
I watched the whole video just because I love your narrative as you work, and I don’t own any CZs and probably won’t because they aren’t approved in Massachusetts. I’m waiting for my P365 spring kit. Thank you! Great video
Have looked at this vid many times. Just noticed @ 35.14 time. firing pin blk. lever spring has already jumped out of groove in F P B L. Sitting ready to hop out. Tricky!!!
Install on a CZ P01 with decker on one side only. Used a Lyman and got the average of 5 pulls. Original DA 9.1 lbs SA 3.7 lbs Install DA 6.1 lbs SA 2.5 lbs
Very good spring upgrade i order these kits install to my pcr except for sheer spring. I dont know if i could do the sheer spring my self kind hard to do it. But after the upgrade gun trigger so smooth and light double action great around 9-10 pounds pull single action magnificent i love this spring upgrade…thanks mcarbo
If I skip taking apart the sear housing and decocker can I still get some of the benefits by lightening the other springs like the hammer spring, trigger return spring, firing pin spring and FPB spring? Will this adversely affect reliability in any way or will I just not reap the full benefits of a fully lightened trigger pull? Seems like a lot of work but maybe I can be confident in doing it myself. Did some trigger spring work in my cz scorpion and it wasn’t that hard for me. I’m wanting to keep the P01 as a ccw gun, so reliability is top priority.
Great video but it is not really as scary as it looks to reassemble the cage assembly if it all falls apart. There is an excellent close up of reassembly on the tube by Earl An. I assembled it in 7 min. The guys at Cajun do it in 2.
great vid but the kit is not worth tearing down your CZ for new springs unless you need them. get a Cajun Pro PKG for any CZ if you really want a nice setup
