The paving externally is too close and high to the bay wall and likely bridging any existing DPC. Reposition paving and lower ground level leaving a suitable gap as a soak-away. Will prevent any re-occurrence of the problem. Cheers.
The paving looks to be below where the damp was inside. So I can't see that being a issue as the water would have to penetrate then move upwards. Water is very heavy and can never rise so it's more likely to be damp or rain penetrating from outside if it's a solid wall. If a cavity wall maybe the window/seal area.
at 3:35 we can see that the external paving height is simply too high, causing the wall above the DPC to become damp. The injection in reality does nothing. It's noted in the video that by removing the plaster the wall dried out, this shows you are not dealing with an endless supply of ground water i.e rising damp. The plasterboard will give you some nice separation from the damp wall and so in effect you have actually reduced the chance of the damp coming though to the decorated surface but in reality the brickwork behind will still be damp. But as with most damp, if it's not effecting the decorated finish the homeowner will be happy enough!
@@markhep the stuff you are put into that wall is doing absolutely nothing! Damp Proofing is nonsense snd not needed As the others have said high ground levels and lack of ventilation……
@@daleburns7110 hi Dale. Yes it was a broken drain that was the problem. This got fixed before we did the job. The damp proof we did was just to make sure the old one was OK or not
Hi Mark, very educational video.I have a first floor flat and a couple of bedroom walls becomes quite damp , should I use the plaster boards and the same treatment for outside and inside ?
Rising damp usley only shows 1m from the ground if you on first floor and higher than a 1m. It could be coming in through brick joints or cocondensation. I would call some one out to give you some advice. This treatment is made more for damp near the ground floor. So not sure weather it would work. If you mean ground floor then yes it should work it did on this one.yes it's the same for inside and out side 👍
I have this problem but I am going to try breathable plaster and breathable paint instead of the modern paints that will not release moisture. The way they did it before they had damp courses.
I tried the breathable plaster before. The customer wanted it and it didn't work.but I could have done it wrong. The only way I have had it actually work is doing it like this. But honestly I am not a professional damp proofer. So I carnt really give idvice. But let us know if you go with the plaster and how it goes . We all hear to help each other 👍👍👍
You could have cured the damp by removing 4 inches of paving around the Bay, digging down to the DPC, and putting some 2inch gravel down in the trench for drainage. The DPC is bridged and causing the damp. So many builders miss this when diagnosing damp issues.
Hi Andrew this one was down to a broken drain that got fixed. That's why it was pritty dry. We put the stuff in just because we had to take plaster off anyway. But yep you right. I told them if they get any more problems they will have to sort flags out 👍👍👍
@@markhep this is the problem……”damp experts” come along with a fraud meter and detect all sorts of nonsense like rising damp which is simply condensation ……they then instantly just pump the wall with chemicals which achieve nothing , ignoring the true usually simple reasons …….
Hi Mark, would you say plasterboard works better for damp proofing than wet plaster. I have a few big internal walls suffering from internal damp which I am using dryzone for
I have been diagnosing damp issues for 28 years and I have yet to recommend drilling and injecting a building of cavity wall construction. When you were drilling the outside I couldn't see the original DPC which leads me to conclude that the ground levels have been raised above it and the sub floor vents. The problem with so called 'Damp Companies' is that they always diagnose 'Rising Damp' and charge the customer thousands to mask the issue rather than finding and rectifying the cause.
Hi, what is the name for the cream and the product you use to inject in the wall please? Also, would you recommend using waterproof render after and then plastering? Thanks!!
Great video Mark. I have an internal wall that is non load bearing and it has bad rising damp as we have no damp proof course throughout the apartment. The wall has the orange blocks rather than bricks, can I use the rods rather than the liquid injection you are using and the mortar is very thin can I put the rods into the blocks, thank you for your help
Internally there are 8 courses of brick above the flooring, externally there are 10 courses of brick before the paving is reached - so the question is this: where is the DPC? I have a hunch that the DPC is either at the 10th course of bricks just barely above the paving OR 1 brick below. The house appears to be a cavity wall construction based on the 'stretcher' bond walling as opposed to 1 brick thick walling of older housing. I would have lifted a paver outside and had a look for the DPC - but whatever is going on the cavity wall is being breached - an option would have been to put an ait brick in for ventilation.
Hi mate it is were I was drilling. It was 120mm above the paving. So paving is a bit high. The problem was a bust rain water drain. It got fixed before we got there 👍
Hi mate it's the same make as what was put in on the gun. But this was in a tub. I am sure its the same thing looks the same. Yes I think you can plaster straight on it when it's dry. 👍👍👍
The cream that you put on the wall is called dry shield and this is different to the cream your use for damp proofing .. and with dry shield you. Use a water proof adhesive called dry grip which can be applied 30 minutes after application and skimmed that day . We still use the board foam as it sets quicker .. the system is called express system by safeguard
Hi mate just wondering can I use normal dab on the wall after I have used the cream to seal it as it’s a big wall and I have fixed the guttering that was leaking to cause the damp issue,will I still get damp dab marks till the wall has dried,thanks again
I'm not a builder or a damp proofing expert. That being said, I had similar damp issues in my house. I researched a bit (Peter Ward on RU-vid) then carried out my own remedial work. This involed getting under the floor, removing a few bricks, clearing out the cavity, putting in air bricks. Problem solved. In my opinion and many others, drilling and injecting is a waste of time, money and effort.
You should have relocated the radiator to under the window. The exterior floor is too high and this was probably the root cause of the issue in the first place.
Hi mate .yere it's had years of paint on it .it was a cracked drain that did the damp . It got fixed before we got there .customer just wanted damp proof done as it spread pritty quick
Hi. How would you go when it's about the pillar of the house internal. how deep should the hole be? Definitely it won't fit because it will hit the other side of the rod unless I cut it but then it will be too short. Does it make any difference if its shorter? I hope all these makes sense. Thanks.
@renovationukmarkhep only one got in all the way. I had to stop drilling to have a bit of brick left at the end of the rod.The rest of them I had to cut them in half or bits of 2 cm to fill in all the holes.I filled all the holes with tiny bits along.It was a hit of a job as its not along the wall where you can drill the length of the rod. We'll I hope I did a good job. Also there is a crack in the bricks on vertical where I can see the insulation in the cavity wall .Should i cover it with expanding foam?
@renovationukmarkhep ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-46fg0ybH3Vw.htmlfeature=shared check out my work and let me know if you want if I did a good job or not. Or to do before I cover the wall. Well beginner's makes mistakes.This is how we learn.
Good video. I have something similar in my flat. That last application of foam you applied to the back of new boards. You said it will "go off" in an hour. What did you mean? It will expand and multiply creating a full layer of foam between back of board and brick wall??
Thanks mate 👍. No the foam it just like a glue it doesn't expand. It's for plasterboard. Don't get the expanding one as it will push the board off the wall. If you ask at the shop they will tell you type you need 👍👍👍
Hi mate. The customer had a broken drain pipe that was leaking under the side of the house. From next door. They fixed it a wile back. And it has been drying out slowly 👍👍👍
Counting the brick. It's 8 coarse inside 10 coarse outside so that wouldn't of fixed it would of it. I aunt a clue but surely you have to drill on the same line both sides to make it sealed. Or am I looking into it too much surly it had should of been done 2 corse higher outside isn't it ment to be 2 brick higher from ground level
You didn't fix the damp cause you just remedied it looks like no underfloor airvents outside ground level is too high bricks are spalling outside maybe due to the high humidity in the cavity there is a number of causes this wouldn't fix it.
Keep an open mind and be aware that rising damp is extremely rare. Houses built before the 1965 Bldg Regs never had a damp-course and they are all still standing and free of the rising nonsense. Happy days!
@@TextBookPuncher1 yes you right on that mate .most times it's something else out side doing it .this one was a drain that had cracked.we put the damp proof in just as a precaution.as we had to take the plaster of anyway 👍👍
Hi Scott. You drill at every half brick. And when you put the cream in it soaks into the brick making a full run. Honestly mate when I first used it I thought the same. But it does seem to work. But I am no professional at it. I have only done it 4 times before. But it has stopped the damp 4 times 👍👍👍
@@markhep first time I’ve seen it done - Looks great - Rising damp has been a massive problem for many years - Need to see more videos like this 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
.wonder if that's on a sand and cement backing.they take a long time to dry fully .I didn't have a problem with this one .but I think if it was a hard backing not board then .yes I wouldn't paper it it would probably not stick well
Yes, they are not putting plaster board on. Thank you. Im just gutted i have to wait so long to put my zebra print wall paper up. And of course having damp on new house.
😂😂😂The wall paper was definitely a one off job. I should have recorded it would have made a few giggle I looked like a right idiot. But the end result wasn't bad at all 😂😂😂👍👍👍👍
@@markhep Because we always have. This is a throw-back to the 1960s when people actually believed in Santa Claus and rising damp. Universities have done testing with brick walls submerged in water and rising damp did not occur. 99% of damp is PENETRATING damp due to high soil levels, leaky downpipes/gutters, etc. Go to the BRE website and check out rising damp as a reality, it is as "common" as hens' teeth. Did you test for salts in the moisture? If not it ain't coming up from the ground. Study Peter Ward RU-vids for one. He makes a living out of mistaken rising damp diagnoses by so-called damp surveyors.
@@albionlondon7550 yere I know what you mean seen a few vids. you don't know what to believe really I know this one was because of a cracked drain pipe in corner of house. That got sorted before we came to re plaster. We put it in as a precaution. Because it spread quite far 👍but yere who knows really 👍👍
