DARK ACADEMIA Sewing Patterns for a PLUS-SIZE Capsule Wardrobe | size inclusive sewing patterns 

For anybody who wants to make their own pleated skirt who is plus size or especially with a big waist to hip ratio, here's what I've found: Most at home tutorials simply use 1-2 rectangles of fabric as long as you want the skirt waist-hem, and then about three times as wide as your waist to pleat down to size. There are a several problems with this if you have a big butt/wide hips. 1. Your skirt will be too short in the back if it's the right length in the front, because this method does not account for the extra length needed to drape over drastic curves, sides and back. 2. Your pleats will always be pulled apart quite drastically at the hem, because once your pleats are ironed down, you essentially have a pleated fabric only as wide as your waist, and they will only hang straight down if your butt is the width of your waist. Of course some pleat flare is desirable, but if you want crisp, vertical lines, you need the fix which can be used for both of these problems. And that is: 1. A waist yoke - this means a wide shaped waistband, like a belt that follows the curve from your waist to high hip - as you try this pattern on, you can cut the bottom of the yoke to be parallel to the ground the whole way around, accounting from the different vertical measurements between waistline and hipline in the front, side and back. You attach the pleated rectangle to the bottom of your waist yoke, of course the rectangle now has to be 3x the circumpherence of your hips rather than your waist now. 2. Adding pleats to a regular a-line or straight skirt pattern. You can make your own basic skirt pattern with simple tutorials on youtube, but the basic difference from just two rectangles is that it tapers in at the top to your waist, with darts or just in the side seams, *and* your back piece is higher in the waist than your front piece, so you have to make a gentle curve from the front side seam in toward the middle. The last part is what prevents the skirt from being shorter in the back over your butt and at the sides. A waist yoke is by far the easier patterning option in my opinion, because slashing and spreading this type of skirt pattern to account for pleats runs into some issues. 1.The side curve from the waist to the high hip means that you can't have a pleat running all the way up the side seam, so you get a gap in your pleats at the sides. 2. If you lay the front skirt pattern out in front of you, the waistline isn't a straight line, but a slight boat shape, curving up at each side. Slashing and spreading the pattern straight up and down in the middle of this curve makes for a confusing straircase shaped waistline that you'll have to mark to know where to iron the pleat later. If you want the secont option, I highly recommend that you settle for two or three front box pleats instead. This means you need to spread the pattern much wider than for a regular pleat, but it also means you can center the two box pleats in the space the front which has a completely straight waistline, before the curve up to the side starts. If you have the same side length as back length, then the back panel has a straight waistline, and can be pleated however you like. Again, I really recommend the waist yoke, because all you need to do to measure for it is get your waist and hip circumpherence, then try to put a thin tape all around your waist and all around your high hip in the mirror, making sure it looks completely horizontal from all angles, and then measure the distance between your waist at your center front, side and center back. When you have a waist yoke, just get a straight rectangle 3x your high hip circumpherence and pleat it down to fit the bottom of your waist yoke. I hope this wasn't too confusing, thanks for reading :) Hope it helps!

Just an fyi: this style was also worn at HBCUs(Historically Black Colleges and Universities) here in the U.S. You can see Black students wearing these same outfits (from patched elbow jackets to pleated skirts) at school, at sit-ins and at marches. Ralph Lauren had a line that celebrated this. So it's not all negative.

I have been struggling to find plus size patterns forever. Whe you mentioned the curvy pattern database I thought I was going to cry. Thank you SO MUCH

I don't know if this helps, but Mood has free patterns, including the pinafore dress from The Queens Gambit. Goes up to hip measurement 34.5" to 63" (87 - 160cm)

I do live in America. I have found myself using the metric system more and more. Because you are right. It is way easier to use. I have made the Harrison shirt. It is an excellent pattern. I love Muna and Broad. Their dulce brief is an excellent pattern. For me it was a game changer. I have a few of Gunners's patterns an am subscribed to his channel. That being said, I love your pattern suggestions. I plan to visit every site you listed that I didn't know about. Thank you for your hard work. Yes, I just subscribed. 🥰

Great pattern picks! Your bit about imperial vs metric is hilarious. I live in the US and I have been saying this all my life. I was all, “YES!!!” I don’t think anything will change though. 🤷‍♀️

Gunner Deatherage - Hemlock Coat and Cape FYI: Gunner was a contestant on Project Runway. and Project Runway All-Stars.

Thank you so much for sharing all of these wonderful patterns. Even though I don't plan to make all of these specifically as my wardrobe doesn't lean as deep into the academia aesthetic, it is so helpful to know what designers, websites, etc. do offer size inclusive patterns. I'm just barely dipping my toes into sewing my own clothes and am currently in the research and pattern accumulation phase and videos like yours are invaluable to someone like me who is tired of having to spend hundreds of dollars on a single item of clothing that actually fits. So making my own is the best way I can think of to get clothes that actually fit me well and feel comfortable as a plus size woman.

American here: I use cm when I am sewing! I’ve had to teach myself so I get the best fit of clothing

Fun fact... Back in the 70s, the US was supposed to transition to the metric system. It was a change that passed all the law making entities, but it was (apparently) to the "people" to adopt it. And we all know how much people love change. 🙄So here we are - 50 some odd years later still suffering with fractions and ridiculous memory aids so we can figure out how to use our lives. Anyone who has tried to double or halve a recipe in Imperial will understand that 1/2 CUP of baking soda is entirely too much... no matter how many cookies you're making. Ask me how I know.

excellent video! love the patterns..

thanks for pointing out that we use metric measurement, nothing more annoying than a pattern from the USA that only has inches and yards

I'm 59, and they tried to teach us the metric system sometime during elementary school. It didn't take. The science teachers in the middle school where I teach use the metric system. I don't know if it will ever change here, but I suspect it will. While American independence is an admirable quality, this borders on the ridiculous.😆**The Seamwork Phoebe is probably the cutest pinafore I've ever seen. It goes up to 56" hips.**

This is the cutest style and great reviews! I love that you kept to inclusive styles. I feel like seamwork had a more fitted pinafore. Maybe Dani? But I remembered one with buttons. I’m not sure if it’s inclusive tho. Anyhoo, great video!!

I've never made any of his patterns, but Gunnar Deatherage is a hoot. He has a RU-vid Channel, which I highly recommend.

Ooh! The Knives Out sweater!

Love the Heather blazer! I made mine out of denim

OMG! an aussie! Thank you! :)

What a great video idea! I love the thought of breaking it down piece by piece. Jennifer Lauren Handmade has a couple really cute more fitted pinafores and cup sizes.

Brilliant video. Thanks for all the recommendations.

JenniferLaurenHandmade has a few pinafore patterns - the Ivy is a classic pinafore pattern with a straight or A-line shape

Great video, some interesting pattern finds. I will definitely be trying some 🤭👍

I really love this video!! thanks Amy, I love this style and didn't even know it was called dark academia. Your suggestions are really inclusive too. please do more of these videos, i am off to plan my outfit!! I am already thinking of accessorizing with stripey black and white witchy tights/socks which i imagine would look really cool with the steele pinafore (i have got already but have not made!! this is the kick up the bum to get sewing!)😁

Hey, this is my first time discovering your channel and I have to admit that I was thoroughly entertained by your name… as I too am Amy, and live in Melbourne!! It looks like we have many shared areas of interest, so I can’t wait to binge watch more of your videos 😁

Wow! Thanks for this great collection of pattern recommendations- so inspiring!!

Great fun! That new skirt from the Friday pattern company (Bernadette?) could be a great option for this look too. Also I quite like the style of the Apricot Pinafore Dress by cocowawa patterns for a more vintage style pinafore.

So Funny! When I was in high school (1969-1973), We were told that the government had decided to go to the metric system. They began force feeding us these measurements. Literally. They started at the supermarkets/grocers. We all buy 1 liter sodas and 2 liter sodas, evem 3 liter. Our quart is approximately 1 of your liters. It is the only real change that ever took. If we need a conversion, we just look it up. We all know that a meter is a little longer than a yard. We all know that the pint is a pound the world around. That is 16 ounces. Now there is a real mess when it comes to nuts and bolts and the tools the mechanics use. Most American made equipment and automobiles use imperical measurements. Not always. Most imports use metric. So we need 2 different size tool sets. Lets just say, we are NOT a nation of conformist.

I am so in love with that dress you are wearing, need to find that video.

The Stitchery RU-vid channel has a tutorial for an adjustable split side bib style pinafore. She has a circle skirt but there's no reason pleating can't be used. A mockup would have to be done before more expensive fabric was used though. I'm not sure it would work with this aesthetic it looks more cottage core.

We in the US also think it’s stupid that we don’t use metric 😂

Love this!

I'm 58. I can't cope with all these labels and tags. Ugh. No more. I just wanted a pattern suggestion for some casual pants/trousers... Thank you for the suggestions 😊

Hip measurement is in the schematic in the pattern on knit/crochet stuff. It is safe to assume a straight down sweater is the same around the hips as it is in the bust. In knit/crochet there are ways to tweek the pattern to fit different hips. 6 months too late.

I loved this! Thanks so much.

Trust me (USA here), I have no idea why we don’t convert to metric🤯

Love the video! Wish the prices were put in the description.

Could we have whimsigoth capsule wardrobe please?

Nice compilation! I would have liked the pattern picture to be left up longer...a bit rushed. Just saying.

60s style pinafore patterns - Fig + Needle - Faron dress pdf; sizes UK 28/US 24/EU 56 - scoop neck front and back, front zip (full length, very 60s) a-line, above the knee. Princess seams front and back make it very adjustable and easy to size up Jennifer Lauren Handmade - Ivy pinafore pdf; up to UK 34/US 30/EU 62 plus cup sizes A-F- a-line, high square neck, button straps, above the knee, back neck is a round sccop, very 60s. Options for a fitted or loose, flowy fit. (JLH has several other pinnys - Pippi, Lauren, Georgie, Dulcie)

Apparently my style has a dark academia silhouette, though markedly not the colour scheme, because I now have so many must try patterns. First up is turning that cape into a raincape!

The Amber Vest from Made for Mermaids is close with a full bust of 51" and hip of 54".

Imperial is the worst! I didn’t even know it was called “imperial” until I was older. It was taught (at least in my part of the country) as “standard”. No joke, that’s just how full of ourselves we are. Literally the rest of the world does it better but nope! we’re the standard. 🤣

Very small point - that last pattern - 110 cm is a bit over a metre, so more like 42 inches (you mentioned 30 inches which would be 80cm).

Wondering what the pattern is for the dress you are wearing in the video…. Thanks!

Late to the party, but did anyone recommend Seamwork's Chantelle (adjustment needed to make sleeveless) and/or Ulla and/or Dani pinafore patterns to you (re: more trad vest style pinnie)? I also personally really like the Pippi pinnie by Jennifer Lauren Handmade :)

Hi Amy can you please tell me what being a member of your channel gets

💯 👍👍👍

The reason the US doesn't change to the metric system is because everyone accommodates us. Even you who wants us to change is giving out the inches more often than not. It's the same thing with English, everybody learns English instead of making us learn their language.

Core - essential elements. Sorry my language couldn't move on.

This style assumes people actually know what ivy league schools wear. I have no idea what anyone at Yale wears. I know some Christian colleges have dress codes. But aside from slacks for the guys and skirts or dresses for the ladies I really don't know. I guess no jeans, shorts, or sweat pants.

The US does not use Imperial measurements. It uses American measurements! Imperial measurements did not come into use until after Victoria became Empress of India. Believe it or not, America was independent of the British by then, and continued using their own Anglo-derived measurements. The ignorant assumption that these two systems are the same results in translations out of historical sources totally buggering up information, like WWII bomber ranges. This was a very informative vid, including informing me that this would bore me spitless.

Yes, we know about the metric system. Your condescension is off putting and unnecessary.