HD diesel guy here. Like mentioned, torch off the outer race, then zip wheel the inner racer about 95% through, then split it with a cold chisel to get that hanger bearing off. Very satisfying. Another tip, always use new strap kits. The 12 points bolts are not something to reuse, especially up here in Canada. New bolts already come with loctite applied. Love the channel. Keep up the great work!
The owner of a big shop with lots of employees going down to the workshop and getting his hands dirty to solve the customers problems. This is how a business is run. 👍🏻👍🏻
I love seeing a boss that is hand on with his work and isn't afraid to get down in the trenches with his guys. Using the ghetto breaker bar taking turns carrying that unit of a drive shaft. That's the kind of thing that builds major leadership capital and will have your guys sticking around for the long haul. A boss that cares is rare and cool to see.
As a 36-year retired employee working for Freightliner building new M2 trucks at the Mt Holly NC plant. Yes, you have replaced what the vibration has damaged but did not resolve the vibration issue. The Drive Shaft should have been balanced or replaced. The way we did it At Freightliner is when we do get a bad balanced shaft from a vendor , the vibration shows up When we test-run it at dyno and of course, the shaft gets replaced and rejected back to the vendor with a charge for the replacement. Dave, I have Lots of respect for you and your sons and mechanics at your shop. I've learned a lot from your experience. Thank you for sharing.
Unfortunately at my job we're pulling those drive shafts on our back, no jacks 1 person. You're correct have the rite equipment, it's never easy doing this heavy work. Having the correct equipment makes it so important.
This is by far my new favorite channel. Keep up the great work Dave! I come from a family of mechanics and this channel is still teaching me stuff every day. Awesome work man!
Yeah, good job Dave and crew, good job. I never knew that you and your Mechanics did heavy duty truck repair? That's like a business all in itself? I did know I fella that did heavy duty truck repair and after knowing him for 10 years he said that's it, I quit. I ask him I said why are you quiting? He said that he has worked 12 -14 hours a day seven days a week for years and years and said that's it, I'm done. Heavy duty truck repair machanics deserve a gold medal for sure. And really, they deserve a lot more than a gold medal.
2:01 You are right sir tools 🛠️ make the real difference and despite the experience price tag it is a investment that makes us make a profit on our job…but some people don’t take care of tools specially if they don’t belong to them I remember paying big bucks for my painting equipment and I let someone else use it and I got it back with something broken or something clogged I know that all your employees take a good care of all the great equipment in the shop You guys rock 😊
That press is awesome. This is just 1 video closer to packing up the family and my boxes to go see if this awesome man is hiring. This shop looks like a dream shop
Hey man, on nothing like having the right tools for the right job. Makes all the difference in the world. And good advice on the blue lock tight. And I love watching y’all’s episodes. Brings back so many memories.
Having equipment available to you makes these types of jobs almost a pleasure to do. A little trick I use now that I’m older is instead of using a sledge hammer on the larger stuff. I purchased a cheap 35lb breaker hammer. I ground down the chisels to a flat end and use them like a big punch. Yes, it heavy, but it’s easy to focus the hit exactly where you need it and the impact energy is phenomenal. It’s great for driving large excavator pins, removing stuck, rusted components. In my service truck I have all different size air hammers all the way up to the large breaker.
Im jealous of those nifty little jacks that carried the shaft down for you. And the lift! And that press!! Most of us are doing these on our backs getting that gravel massage! Haha. Even if you only periodically do this stuff, I'd recommend a heavy duty yoke puller. It would had that yoke off easily. I normally cut through those bearings 99% of the way, and smack through the last bit of the race with a chisel. I dont have a press capable of pushing it off! What matters is you got it done. Great stuff.
More more more PLEASE. So happy when a new "Dave" video appears, and my personal happiness is tanamount to the happiness of those around me 😂😂. I am anxious for results on some of the other projects we were introduced to recently like that younger guy's Dodge ("Ram"?) pickup. You've created a monster Dave... Your YTs are better than anything on actual television.
Hey Dave I I know you guys probably don’t work on big trucks that often but those u-joint strap kits are not reusable. It’s good that you put lock tight on them but those are stretch bolts and need to be replaced every time.
The reason for the Loctite is not anticipated re-use of parts... It's so the parts don't vibrate themselves loose and land somebody stranded on the 143 or another motorist with a carrier bearing through their windshield.
they say that but ive never replaced good looking hardware. and never had any failures. those straps dont carry any load. the yoke takes all the abuse. same for ring gear bolts.
You can definitely reuse those strap kits, the bolts aren’t torque to yield. I’ve reused tons of those straps and bolts. I always put blue loctite on them before reinstalling. Only time I replace them is if they get rounded off or damaged. The yoke nut should be replaced every time, but if you don’t have one in stock some red loctite and gunning it on works.
Here in Australia Truck drivers say " Trucks carry Australia " When in actual fact Truck mechanics carry Australia ! Piss easy job sitting behind the steering wheel and commenting on every local and world topic with a verbal solution to fix all the problems . Steering wheel attendants It's the hard working mechanics out there that keep the wheels turning that are foundation of the supply chain. Let it be known that Loctite is a brand , all Threads male and female must be clean , oil, grease ,dirt etc removed and dry before applying thread locker liquid or compound. Some non ferrous threads need to be primed with a priming product for the threadlocker to cure . Pay attention to detail and take pride in your work and you will succeed . So many equipment is half arsed repaired it breaks down in no time . A tradesperson is only as good as they want to be !
Thank you Dave for another wonderful video. You & your team never ciese to amaze me, GREAT JOB GUYS. GOD BLESS & my best to your family and crew 🙏. TMP from N.J
Nice work, for pulling jokes and bearings you should consider Tiger Tools. They will keep you from heating and banging on equipment. Your press is awesome!!
Normally when you don’t have a massive press that inner race stays on. I always found heating and flattening one piece of it will allow you to get it off. This job is never cake work.
When I worked as a mechanic at a plant in Tuscaloosa ,Al. We had bearing on a shaft that at least a 2"" Enter race. It was at least a .005 interference fit. We told the shaft to a local electric motor shop. They had a 180 ton horizontal press!!! When you operated the press, you were in another room controlling the press. In a word ,they had no problem pressing the bearing. The guy at the shop said that they had pressed bearing like the ones on coal mining motors. he said when the bearing popped loose, it shook the whole building !!!
I also work on over the road trucks and those u-joint straps are not reusable and the carrier bearing can simply be split with a die grinder and the inner race with a die grinder and a few taps when almost through it. And never reuse the carrier yoke nut. Just advise for future heavy duty truck repairs that differ from automotive. All of these recommendations can be found on Spicer’s website. Also, usually when you have a carrier bearing failure like that with worn out rubber, it is due to another underlying issue like suspension ride height causing the driveline angles to be off. Quite often, the front differential pinion angle is too low, causing the issue. That is, on a Peterbilt or Kenworth anyways. Same drivelines though. Meritor or Dana Spicer mainly.
Dave u and ur guys r with out a doubt the best automotive mechanics there r but please leave the class 6,7&8 trucks to the heavy duty technicians. I watch ur videos all the time and I just cringed at this video. After 13 years in a Mack truck dealership and 20 in a top tier independent shop much like yours but for heavy trucks. I was just hoping no co got hurt
Im a diesel mechanic. I changed those carriers in 25 minutes. The best way i found was not pullers or anything like that. Try taking a cut-off wheel and get it down to the race. With the cut-off wheel cut a small slice into the race of the bearing, take a chisel and crack the race when you made the small cut. It will fall right off. Good luck, guys
We dont pull the whole driveline out if we don't have too, undo the u joint off the slip and set aside, and support, and use a center punch to mark the splines on the yoke and spindle, than take the carrier housing off and carefully torch a notch in the bearing than the race than knock it off, clean it up and voila.
Thing with loctite- so many people just put it on without cleaning the threads on the bolt, nut or pocket. It doesnt work if the threads are all oily, no matter how much you pour on.
HEJ LADS , GOOD TURNAROUND! We have a big hyraulic press and on the front side a thick plastic curtain on a slide to pull over when pressing anything. i have been in the welding bay behind a 12' steel wall and heard a BANG at the press and a part of the shattered bearing lands at my feet....... The fitters didnt have the curtain in front of the job.........At the very least wear high impact safety glasses AND a high impact full face and head protection. It can turn deadly in a split second.
Interesting seeing how folks who don’t work on heavy trucks all the time carry out jobs. The way I do those hanger bearings. I drop just one end of the driveshaft, use a yoke puller to get the yoke off then pop the rubber and metal hanger off. Smash the outer race with a hammer, it usually will shatter and come off. Then I use an air hammer to remove the inner race. Clean everything up and install a new hanger bearing, tapping it on with a punch then putting the yoke back on.
I've done carier bearings as a mobile mechanic all you gotta do is cut out the bearing into pieces and wack that last of the bearing with a cold chisel when you're in the middle of nowhere
I work in machinebuilding and use bleu and green loctite. After 2 years blue loctite will granulate, green loctite after 7 years. Keep that in mind. We used some bolts without spring washer etc.
Tip for loctite, if it's a blind hole, put the loctite in the hole not on the bolt. If you put it on the bolt there's a propensity for it to blow out instead of stay on the threads.
Ouch no Guard on the press! rule number 1 add a cage cause it may not matter if something shifts and a part flies and hits the wall but if it comes out towards the mechanic! Huston we have a problem.
and get a yoke puller for trucks you dont even need to remove driveshaft from truck entirely, keep fhe other end hanging with help of strap and use a yoke puller, remove rubber as the guy did and at last either cut it with grinder or I prefer doing it with torch, never hammer it as piece from bearing can go shooting.
