Mate I love seeing what great info that you share via RU-vid, it has certainly peaked my interests, in fixing my 2021 Jayco Journey, although its a small van but the invaluable information about the 12 pin connector, and then moving to the dual grey and red anderson plugs. My van alone they've done some shocking works, like let run a 6mm2 cable from the 12 pin, down to a junction area with 2 over larger BP connectors, then it then jumps over to a 10mm2 cable that then runs to the Fridge with the AES 3 way function. Strangely Jayco wired the AES switch wire directly off the 12v fridge supply write in the back of the fridge, it doesn't even make it to the 12 pin plug. Job well done Mate keep it up!!
Hi Matt, hope you have enjoyed your trip, well deserved. I am rewatching some of your videos about dcdc chargers in caravans, however what I am trying to find info on is the blue trigger wire for the dcdc charger. I don’t see triple Anderson plugs on the back of vehicles or fronts of caravans so I am trying to find out how this works. Obviously new Ranger has a smart alternator. I have a trigger wire to the Redarc bcdc charger in the tub but never thought of having one put in for the Anderson plug for the caravan as currently don’t have a dcdc charger. All the best, Roger. 👍
If you use one DCDC for two different batteries (car battery and van battery) one might be more depleted than the other (or different overall size). So assuming the DCDC is multistage, it wouldn’t be able to charge both banks at optimum charge rates (electrician here).
Thanks so much for this. I'm installing 2 X 100ah lithium batteries (different brands), 1 in tow vehicle, 1 in caravan that is fitted with 3 way fridge. What's the best set up here? I was originally thinking 40amp DcDc to caravan battery, 20amp DcDc to vehicle battery, red Anderson to 3 way fridge, so three seperate lines from starter battery. Could I just run 40amp DcDc to vehicle battery, vehicle battery to caravan battery? And not use 20amp DcDc?
I have an under bonnet DCDC charger and second battery. What size cable would you recommend to run back to parallel feed to the caravan battery? And what size for the separate fridge run? Would the one DCDC charger be ok, or at least until I maybe change one over to Li?
Gday Matt. Great video.. I don't think this question has been covered anywhere in RU-vid.. if running a dcdc charger from a car to camper trailer/caravan which we are using 50amp renogy one to charge the 2x120amp lithiums in the camper via a 35m2 2b&S cables with a single 120w solar panel on my draw bar tool box...I do have a 200w solar blanket back up. No real estate for solar on a soft floor camper.. My canopy on my ute will be next to fit out. I will be running 2x 170amp giant power lithiums in the canopy and have another 50amp renogy DCDC charger. Only possible to get 2 x 160w solar panels on the roof of the ute hence 2 lithiums. My question. Do people actually run 2 DCDC chargers for this kind of set up running batteries in a camper or caravan and also in the ute canopy? Is the only option to run a higher output alternator for this application?? Love your thoughts being an electrician..
Nice thanks so I don’t have to have two DC/DC one in car for car batteries n one in my van for the van batteries I can just run them off my enerdrive 40+ that’s in the back of car I was going to run another separate lines from start battery for the caravan DC/DC I’ll have to sell my second DC now thanks lad 😁👍🏾
Hey Matt, thanks for your very helpful & knowledgeable videos. I bought new in '21 a fairly basic (electricly) Supreme Van & am now in the process of upgrading it. I have swapped out the 2X120 AGM's for 2X120 Kings lithiums & the PWM for a Epever MPPT. It has a Meanwell battery charger which I'm told by the manufacturer wont hurt the lithiums, but wont charge them fully either. I want to fit a dc2dc charger & it seems to be easier to mount it in the rear of the car ('14 Jeep Grand Cherokee) & run it through the existing grey anderson. One of your videos suggest this is possible but what size cabling do I use ? (the existing cable is 8g) I want to fit (or have fitted) an inverter to power up all the GPO's also' minus the fridge, charger, hot water & A/C. Your videos say this is entirely possible, but my local RV electician says he wont sign off on anything more than a dedicated GPO :(
Thanks for all the information there you are on the right path. Just keep the gauge of cable between the DC charger and battery as thick as practically possible. Changing to dedicated lithium charges is the correct way to do this. Just understanding what an AGM charger will do to a lithium battery it’s not the charging to 100% that is the concern. It’s the other stages that some charges have in built into their charge algorithm that can damage a lithium‘s BMS . And example, here would be the desulphation stage this can go above 16 V and have a rather nasty voltage modulation involved.
Having the two outs from the dc2dc, one to aux batt and 2nd to van fridge, wouldn’t the van fridge drain the aux battery when car is not running and the dc2dc is off?
Hello. I have a Jayvo caravan with 2 x 120ahr lithium batteries and a DC to DC charger to a red Anderson plug at the front of the van. The van has a compressor fridge connected to the lithium batteries. Can I run a power supply from the vehicle battery to a red Anderson plug to charge the van batteries while the fridge is running?
Thanks for the video. My vehicle has a projector DC DC charger for auxiliary battery. The charger has one output. If I tap into that and run to an Anderson plug, caravan has BM Pro 35 to HA no DCDC charger. Is this going to help with charging? Cheers
Hi Sir I have second battery on my back of my car with DCDC charger and 3 batteries total 360 Amp , I have-grey Anderson plug from the 3 batteries and connected to PIN number 9 & 10 because if I stop any where I have constant power to my caravan fridge is this right.
Thanks for showing us this system Matt. I have the caravan 3 way fridge charging circuit set up as you describe with an isolator to protect main battery. After a short while it will turn on charging the fridge but then turn off again after about 10 minutes. I believe it will turn on and off again whilst driving (2021 Mazda BT50). Could this be a smart alternator problem ? Enjoy your explanations and fault finding.
Thanks for the explanation, Matt. Would this system work: Vehicle: battery - fuse - iso - Anderson plug. Caravan: Anderson plug - cable split with one branch direct to 3 way fridge and the other branch to DCDC charger - fuse - battery? Does the DCDC charger prevent back feeding from battery to fridge? Thanks for your help.
take note of what you did there I specifically said in the video and really emphasized on the fact of running separate circuits do not split anything That's where you run into trouble at 12 volt Remember we are dealing with low voltage here and you need each circuit running to the best designed for each line
Similiar to Harold's comment - I have 2 DCDC chargers 1 x 20amp 1 x 25amp I want to install the 20amp in the car with Aux battery. 25amp in the van, do I 1 run 2 x isolated andersons to the back of the car 1 for the van aux battery and red one for 3 way fridage? car and van aux batteries may be different chemistry initially until I go to lithium for both - thanks
Can I do this setup if I have an AGM battery in the car and lithium in the van? The lithium battery I'm using says it's ok to run AGM profile charger to it
I have a question: If I fit a 50amp DC toDC in my van, it will be charging a single 120amp Lithium, would this be enough to charge battery and handle a 90l 3way fridge (15-17amp)? Or would you recommend always running a separate red Anderson for the 3way fridge?
Because your dc to dc charger is designed to charge the battery only. Not act as a high current power supply. It will remain in ‘bulk’ Plus, your battery requires a specific charge algorithm in order to charge properly and efficiently
Helpful explanation to something I’ve seen before - thank you. But with more battery capacity / lithium available now, is there a recommended wiring arrangement to be able to run the 3 way from the van batteries for a short period of time (few hours) when stopped (car off but not set up i.e gas / 240v)?
That doesn’t make sense. What about those red arc dcdc chargers with solar input. You’re always charging with that, especially if youre usage is greater than your input?
