Rock auto is THE best place for car parts, seriously. They ship basically within the hour, and it arrives here in Canada WAY before parts I've ordered from Ontario to Alberta.
@@notsevenfeettall dang that sucks. I’ve had good luck but I haven’t ordered any electrical parts. Just brakes, shocks and something else. Feel like it has to be worth the price with shipping to order. Ordered rear shocks on my dad’s truck for $90 shipped. Oreilys, advanced and autozone wanted $90 for one. It was same part number as autozone. I’ll probably stay away from them for electrical components.
@@marshallmann2171 parts below, around $600-$800 bucks, but I think most people doing this already have most of the tools needed. You don’t need the Milwaukee impact wrench though, a ratchet/socket set and a breaker bar will do just fine. They’re charging $700 for rear brakes, fronts can’t be too far behind, there goes another $700. Now you also have tools to do small jobs, fluid changes, oil pan, calipers, shocks, etc. -Milwaukee impact wrench $350 (home depot /online) -3 ton Jack $180 (HarborFreight) -torque wrench $25 (HarborFreight) -sockets $30-$100 (shop around) -Jack stands $30 (northern tool)
1a auto is way better. They're as cheap and I've never had a wrong part shipped. My last order was for plugs,wires and coils which is about 600+ at the parts store came in at 200 at 1a. But that's my opinion I guess
@@CaptinJack2 The parking brakes clamp onto the rotors locking them up, making it almost impossible to remove. Unless you’re a stubborn dummy like me, in which case you will be severely dehydrated.
@@ibake84 Good question. I don’t know since I don’t have any but I suspect you’d have to lift one wheel at a time while securing the other three really well.
There are certain fasteners where the torque spec is very important and others where they just have to be tight enough not to fall off and not tight enough to damage the threads, those are tight enough not to fall off kind, I do however like to use blue locktite on my brake jobs especially if they had locktite from the factory
and when you have a $300 milwaukee fuel setup lol. No elbow grease needed. Had a honda crank bolt stuck. 1 inch breaker bar setup couldnt get it off with 2 people. Tore the holding tool slot right off. Went to home depot and paid $500 for a m18 fuel with a 8ah and the sucker came loose in less than 3 seconds with a heavy socket.
Yea I live in New England and only drive 99 Outbacks. My last one was so rusty that everything was a bitch to work on. My new one is pretty clean so I’m happy
Well, the us on Toyota is the rotors invariably have threaded holes in the face. 2 bolts, a little elbow grease and rotors off. As long as the caliper piston pushes in easily and the piston seals are good, boom!
I love to see people learn how to work on their own cars, so long as it's done correctly. Basic maintenance isn't that hard to do if you have a repair manual and RU-vid.
Learning this after a shop wanted $800 for a coolant blow out in my 97 Z3. Luckily a car buddy said "lemme take a look" a $10 coolant flange. A $12 clamp. $50 of coolant later. A few small spaces climbed in and a few cuss words uttered and im back on the road. Truly love the exposure to "big boy Legos" as I call working on cars.
These days manufacturers are making things much hated to DIY on jobs that used to be fairly easily done in your driveway!!! I was told a few years ago that on Ford F series trucks 2016 or newer, when you do a brake job just like that one in the video, you have to break the bleeder valve loose before compressing the calipers or you’ll screw up the ABS system and you’ll have to pay the dealership several hundred dollars to “un-screw” it; not to mention having to pay a towing bill to get it to the dealership!!!
@@AzzKicker-bz1cb it isn't just the Ford trucks, it is any vehicle with an anti~lock brakes. In some instances pressing the piston in on a caliper can possibly mess the ABS pump up. Just wait until you see the bill for engine jobs on the big Ford and GM trucks, the entire cab has to come off to work on them.
No, Asian parents supervise. Watch you make a mistake, say nothing until a few steps after. Then chide you. It's so annoying that I never let my old man watch me work.
And they go extremely cheap on the parts for their profit margin Rather put that on the quality of my parts than on their pocket Dealerships are you blatant thieves
Tbh 250 in labor isint that far off from what I'd expect at a dealership or the like. I wouldn't take it to them cause I can do it myself, but that's about 1.5 hours in labor in my area
@@floppybeefcurtains7679 yep, there are some good mechanics out there that do good work and then there are those ones that are lazy and do shotty work but any day I can do my own repairs, is a good day.
@@jamiel3504 a lot of them dont start that way, but feel the pressure of deadlines from customers and the shop. So they opt for shortcuts on cars instead of doing things right.
How do you DIY with blood tests or with the doctor? I have trust issues too like when they ask my history or parental history of this or that. I’m like any issue should show up in results without me needing to disclose history, but if I say I have a history of this & that, then they might return & say we found this & that in you. Off topic, sorry, but the trust issue thing got me thinking.
Brakes are one of those intimidating jobs that are actually quite easy to do, especially if you’re not working on old rusted parts. When that happens, it can become a pita, but the job itself is not complicated to do.
ASE master tech here. I love seeing DIY people doing mechanical work on their car while using a torque wrench. Plus the fact you properly cleaned and lubed everything before assembly is great too. The only things I would suggest that you didn’t mention is cleaning the old grease from the caliper bracket where the slides go in since the old grease likes to get caked up after a while and when you compress the caliper piston/pistons back in crack open the blender valve first to let the old cooked fluid out of the calipers so new fluid replaces it when you pump up the brakes (I typically attach a little tube on top of the blender and put the junk fluid in a empty oil container). Still, you did better than many other “professional” mechanics I wave worked with over the years.
Lol ya I want to see him extract a froze guide pin that has rusted! I love how people make these videos with false hope. Not everyone owns tools let alone a jack or 1/2 damn impact lmao. Plus some don't even know where to jack a car from!
@@thesarcasticgenius3986 yea but people making mistakes is how they learn. If us pros talk down to the people out there trying then they will not end up learning anything. I want to see more people involved with their car repairs (or any repairs to be frank) and I would love to see more pros be helpful instead of condescending and ignorant. Now I’m not saying I don’t enjoy a little bit of schadenfreude when a certain type of person that doesn’t know better does something dumb with their car. I just don’t think we should treat everyone that decides to take on their brake repairs like that.
@Jay ThatGuyYouKnow I hear that. But there is another thing that I seen in my time is, that not everyone has the the gifts to even do a simple oil change. Ya I know sounds crazy and far fetched but some people just cannot be taught. Plus again tools! And how to use them. Utube does not show u everything. I tell people all the time if u have doubts don't do it. Makes no sense to mess it up then pay extra to get it fixed right. Know ur abilities and limits!
@@thememebean1073 A ratchet is a ratchet, it’s not a type of wrench, but an internally-toothed rotating mechanism on some wrenches. What some people call a ratchet is actually a socket wrench, which generally has a ratcheting mechanism. There are also ratcheting box-end wrenches and ratcheting screwdrivers. So I’d say technically, a ratchet is a feature on some wrenches, but it’s not a type of wrench because those wrenches are also available without a ratcheting mechanism. For instance, you have a box-end wrench (a wrench with a circular end versus the open-end wrench as seen in this emoji 🔧). Whether it has a ratcheting mechanism or not, the tool name is still box-end wrench, but it can also be called a ratcheting box-end wrench or non-ratcheting (regular) box-end wrench to specify between the two. So in the case of torque wrenches, which are a specialty type of socket wrench, there are the beam-type and the click-type. The click-type, as seen in the video, I suppose does have a ratcheting mechanism because you can reverse the direction of the wrench without also moving the socket in reverse, but that’s not considered a primary feature of the click-type torque wrench like it is on other wrenches so it wouldn’t be called a ratcheting torque wrench. Sorry for the long explanation. I just wanted to make sure I properly explained it so hopefully you’ll understand what I’m trying to say.
@@LuckyCharms777 I ain’t reading all that but since you put in the effort I shall change the mistake I always called it a torque ratchet at work and never got told differently
@@thememebean1073 Well if you choose to remain ignorant so be it. You asked a question, I attempted to educate you, but if you prefer to not take advantage of learning from others people knowledge, then you get to stay dumb. Good luck with your torque ratchet. I have a feeling you’ll be stuck in that job for a long time.
Don't forget to check the brake fluid reservoir. When you wound the caliper back, if someone has ever topped up brake fluid when pads were thinner, the system may need some fluid extraction.
I never push the fluid back into the reservoir. I always open the bleeder and let the fluid out there. A lot less messy, and minimizes the risk of the seals in the master cylinder getting damaged.
I usually recommend a brake fluid exchange with a brake job so I just leave it a little low after so it doesn’t over flow my shop gives a better warranty on out brakes if u get a fluid exchange with the brake job that’s why I always recommend them
@Will Swingem definitely not a silly idea considering how often brake fluid is overlooked. I'd say theres a fair few vehicles driving round on original fluid thats only ever been topped up when its gotten low.
@@Vikingxbwell had a caprice once and did some mountain driving when the oil began cooking we had extremly brake fade and needed to pump twice before it braked 😂... but that just an american car. Also had this with a vw golf 2. When i reached 50mph and brake it brake til 20mph and then it didnt brake anymore. When i had a toyota starlet p7 from 1986 and brake it from 60 mph it did brake till 0 mph. Thats why the rest is crap
Yep, pop the cap off and giggle while it runs out thinking "dumbass Mr fix it here seen his brake light and added fluid........why does it need fluid......is something getting smaller.....wearing down if you will, and it's not fluid but pads you need" 😂😊
Bedding brakes is really only necessary for race/high performance pads. Recently replaced my rotors and pads with Centric (OEM for StopTech) and they say its not needed.
So I still do a bedding in process for new pads. However, I have found it's not necessary for pure street duty. Even brand new pads will lock up the tires and you can only brake so hard as to kick on abs. As for warping rotors, I've found what does that more often is heating the rotors up and then parking it with the parking brake on right, or doing heavy braking multiple times and then just sitting there holding the brakes. Basically doing things that heat up the rotors more than normal, and then leaving the pads firmly pressed into the rotor, not allowing for an even heat dissipation. A good example is braking down a long hill and sitting at a light for 5 minutes. I'm sure there are other ways but that's what I have found warps rotors most often
Pardon me, but you shouldn’t jerk on the torque wrench because it won’t be accurate. Just pull smoothly until it beeps or snaps, depending on the kind you have. Good job, my friend.
@@LOWZZ33 ya but they take advantage of people’s lack of knowledge as to what the problem really is. I’ve heard so many stories about little old ladies coming in complaining about their breaks. Mechanic finds a coffee mug lodged under the pedal and charges them for a full replacement.
@@bmo14laxbro threw in the ….. that means he thinks he smarter and you have to be dumb to never have read the torque wrench manual like his daddy made him
@@tylercecil5634 *breaks* - "brakes" are what the video is demonstrating secondly, his advise not to yank on the torque wrench isn't because you'll snap the bolt.. it's because your torque won't be accurate when not using the tool correctly.. If you're going to use a torque wrench, why not employ proper use of the tool?
We don’t upgrade them for 700 either just replace them with oem parts shit ya pay 200-1000$ or more for repairs and when we don’t have a part in stock guess where we get it from autozone, orilly, advanced, Napa etc you get the memo, dealerships are the biggest scam but thanks to those who don’t know shit about cars we make hella money
I’m a service advisor at a BMW repair shop, and I can attest that no brake job is under $1,000 at our shop. So yeah, that dude should get trade that BMW for a Honda.
BMW was charging me $1200 to replace the brake line clip for hand brake. It’s located underneath the car, above drive shaft. 🤦🏻♂️ Ended up replacing it myself for the cost of the part, $22. All I’ve read on BMWs is that every trip to the deal is at least $1000.
Right I work for a GMC dealership and don’t get me wrong. I gotta make my paycheck but I really hate whenever I give people a quote for front and rear brakes with new rotors and it’s almost $1500. I’m sorry but that is incredibly unrealistic and the response I get from my boss is “ we’re just trying to be competitive with the other places around town” Go f!ck yourself if I didn’t have a warranty I wouldn’t be coming to you. And that’s from a person who works for the dealership! 🙄
Yeah this Friday just passed I just went and paid $100 for a diagnostic test because I had a power steering leak they found the problem and said it will be $1,600 to repair my steering box. First off it's a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 it doesn't take long to repair why so high. And why so high for a diagnostic test when it didn't really tell me nothing else going on with my vehicle.
It doesn't hurt to wipe them but in actuality the brake cleaner will disolve the oils on the new rotors & as the cleaner runs off the grease & oils will go with it. So no you really don't need to wipe them. Just use enough cleaner for it to run off and take the bad stuff with it.
Yeah, while i was out of town, the brakes were needing done on my caravan. They wanted 1500 to replace all of it & flush the fluid. They lasted long enough for me to do it myself. Saved right at 1000 bucks!
Bs😂😂😂 a quailty set of rotors and pads are at least 400+... this is aint no TRQ a1 auto bs but go ahead and buy that all in one kit nd be mad them shit squeak or vibrations still happening
I have a 2005 Pilot. Amazon Prices as of 04/15/23: ACDelco Silver 18A1312A Rear Rotors = $25.90 ea. Raybestos Element3 Pads 865H $27.21 Or Wagner QuickStop ZD865 Pads = $22.93 Total in parts $74.73-$79.01+tax These aren't Bendix or Detroit Axle parts either. If you go to your local AutoZone, I would pay ~$280+tax on their Duralast brand of parts. It is realistic if you shop around before you need to do the job. The rear brakes for the model year of my vehicle. To me it looked like he was doing the rears only.
This isnt a race car any basic rotors and pads will be fine and cheap for my vehicle and I just looked $45 each for rotors and $42 for 2 sets of pads so if you know math thats $264 for all 4 brand new and it will work perfectly fine
that's what I thought when he mentioned total price. for a truck the brake pads you should use are ceramic and alone cost 40$ or more, and rotors 110$ or more.
I'm. no brake shop tech... ive done a few tho.. I've never even considered removing the hose for a job like this. wouldn't this just be more work, more chance for failure of the fitting? my standard has always been to carefully suspend the caliper out of the way.
@@gumps1986 huh? when winding calipers back in you should open the reservoir to pop the seal otherwise there will be too much air in the system to wind them in properly
Also: Toyota parts and labour have a warranty at any Toyota dealer, should there be an issue. The Toyota dealet assumes responsibility for the repairs. He screws up and kills someone, he is responsible.
Those rotors you actually don’t have to spray off. They have a solid coating on them to keep rust away. You will hear a grinding noise for a few miles until it wears away. There’s my little tidbit of information:)
Yeah it all just depends on what you buy, some rotors I’ve gotten have an oil coating for shipping protection, but the ones I just got for my truck came dry like you said, I still like to spray them down regardless to get any oils off that I may have gotten on from handling them.
Most if not all rotors (even painted ones) are shipped with an oil coating on them. Always a good idea to spray them anyways before putting on the tires just to get off any slide lubricants you might of gotten on them during the installation.
That must be an american thing, I have yet never seen suppliers in Germany like ATE, TRW and Bosch deliver rotors with an oil Film on them, they are always coated and ATE does the most visible one where it’s literally like gray paint on the whole thing
Always clean uncoated rotors before install. But you never ever use brake clean on new coated rotors. That coating is made to be removed by the pads and if you hit it with brake clean it breaks it down and will not be removed correctly which can cause squealing.
You are totally wrong about that. Always clean them with brake cleaner. The coating is not meant to be removed by the pads. Where the hell did you hear that? That's absurd.
@@jeffriedstraoh yeah like the brake pads rubbing on the rotor aren't going to take the coating off but brake clean does according to you right😂 no rotors have coating the only coating they have is a light film of oil to keep them from rusting during shipping and mouisture
Listen, you are both talking about a different type of coating. I specifically stated that I am not talking about rotors that are coated in oil that is meant to prevent them from rusting during shipping. Obviously you need to remove that, most shops via brake clean, and more and more switching to dish soap now. I am talking about the silver, zink/aluminum coating that is baked onto the rotor during production on new rotors now. Very few have any type of oil coating on them and the baked ones 100% do not have oil on them.
I’ve paid that $700 before, simply because I lived in a city and didn’t really have a place to work. Now that I have a garage I’ll be doing this myself. Thank you for the CONCISE video. Lots of videos like this go on for half an hour.
@@boltsandbanter I was able to get wiper arms, headlight casings, break light casings, Sideview mirrors, lots of goodies for cheap, saves a ton of money by switching to pick n pull 😀
Even better when they have a sale. Sometimes the environmental fees stack up, and when they sneak in a warranty I never asked for. I get plenty of parts there regularly
@@wermish6040 and completely unnecessary, tight is tight when it comes to brakes, different story if you’re doing wheel bearings, cylinder heads etc but a waste of time trying to get a torque wrench behind a hub just to torque the carrier and calliper bolts
@@MrSilk13642 every mechanic uses an impact gun to tighten wheel nuts, you’re supposed to buzz it til it clicks then tighten with a torque wrench, if he’s gunned them up too tight he’s not a very good mechanic
Back in college the Toyota dealership quoted me the same for brakes on my Tacoma. That single quote got me into fixing and maintaining my own stuff Thanks Toyota! 😊
I had my brakes go out and hit a curb in my first car. Quoted 1000 bucks for a new A frame and master cyclinder, actually needed a brake line and a junk yard A frame. Fixed it myself for 70 dollars. I'll never go back to mechanic after they couldn't even get the diagnosis right. It's been 11 years since then and I've done all my own work.
“RockAuto: All the parts you’ll ever need!” And I believe it. Most of my parts for my 02 Saturn comes from that website! Foglight assemblies, electrical connections, brake kits and calipers, suspension and soon to be alternator! So far, the parts are holding up the test of time and driving.
Twisted flex lines, calipers mounted up side down, rear brake shoes backwards. Even had one where the rear drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and backing plates were removed completely, the rear flex hose had vice grips pinching it shut!
Good for you man!!! I do my own work as much as I can!!! People don't believe me when I tell them the dealers are crooks!!! But hey here's more proof!!! Thanks for posting!!!
Just did the fronts on my tacoma yesterday. $105 for the pads from the deakership + $50 to have my rotors turned at an autoparts store. Started the job after 5pm & was done before dark, that includes an hour of waiting for the rotors to be turned. Screw dealer service centers.
If it's a newer vehicle the rotors are so thin you don't wanna turn them because they will warp. Better to just replace them and wouldn't be buying parts from a dealership that's just common sense.
@@trev119 no no no... the rotors will be fine. They only warp if you drive like an idiot. The first set of front pads lasted over 90,000 miles. This is on a 2015 , manual transmission. I barely use the brakes.
Lol 90k miles on rotors and you decide to turn them!? Dude for an extra 50 bucks you got brand new rotors and have no possibility for issues. As far as the dealer goes. They can’t be putting on aftermarket brakes or cutting rotors at 90k miles. They have to fix it so customers don’t come back complaining
There’s a reason. Everything gets cleaned, re-greased, resurfaced, new bolts, nuts, and clips sometimes. Every nook and cranny cleaned and prepped for new parts.
About $400 in tools between M18 impact wrench, a torque wrench, sockets, etc. You can cut that down to under $100 easily, you just won't have the impact wrench. Might need a breaker bar to break loose the caliper bracket bolts.
They are that high. My daughters friend took her car to a shop and they wanted $1200 to change rotors and pads on all 4 wheels. It cost me $225 in parts to change 2 of my daughters rotors and pads on all 4 wheels.
@@kmacnumber2 that's the spirit! DIY brake jobs aren't so bad and can save tons of money, even if you buy parts off the shelf at Autozone or O'Reilly's. I got my rotors and pads on sale at Rockauto and my wallet couldn't be happier!
@@tonygregori4138 cool so maybe your dealer can teach NYC dealers a thing or two about fair pricing. I haven’t been quoted sub $500 for a brake job, ever.
Another tip, for a more complete job, depending on the degree of rust, remove the shims in the caliper bracket and wire wheel the shim mounting surfaces to a perfect finish. Apply some paint as you've just exposed bare metal, and install new shims. Also worth noting that the caliper piston surface which contacts the pad, as well as the opposite side of the caliper inner face must be wire wheeled and protected, in order to apply even pressure on the pads. Hope this helps, happy wrenching 🔧🧰
same, never changed a brake in my life, but Honda wanted $500 to change brakes and rotors all around. Bought all the tools I needed, and brakes and rotors. Did the work myself after watching several videos. Now I have all the tools for less than what they wanted. Next I did engine oil and transmission oil myself. I find it fun and relaxing. Not sure I would do on a brand new car, but my old Honda, who cares.
Thanks to my grandfather for teaching me how to maintain a car at the sge of 13. Now that I'm an adult, it saves me so much money, plus I know what's being done to my vehicle.
Here in Ontario a bit more costly. But same idea. For my Chevy it would cost $900 for all 4 brakes and rotors but I did it myself for $400. Got slotted and drilled rotors for that price too. Diy work is a huge money saver
Here in the UK, my Ford Mondeo 2.0L TDCi failed its MoT test (Ministry of Transport Test) due to serious rot the rockers (sills) on the off-side. The garage quoted £1,400 to replace the entire part. I could buy an aftermarket part for £75 on eBay. But instead I bought a MIG welder and gas, and the necessary extras for £250. Then I acquired a load of scrap mild steel of the correct thickness from the scrap bins of a local engineering company, and taught myself to weld - badly, despite watching lots of very skilled welders who generously shared their knowledge and skills. I already had the other tools. It took me over a week to learn, beat multiple pieces of steel into all the shapes necessary to replace approximately 1/3 of the inner and outer sill. I used cereal packets to get the correct shapes of all the different elements, borrowing inspiration from the other side. The main reasons for doing it this was because the car is only worth £350, therefore it wasn’t worth spending £1,400; I couldn’t afford it anyway; I gained a new tool and a new skill (almost); and using lots of smaller pieces of free steel, instead of fitting an aftermarket part meant that I didn’t have to peel back the carpets to avoid setting the car on fire. I could have cut up an aftermarket sill, but where’s the challenge of that…?
That sounds about right. Toyota dealer wanted $1,200 for pads and rotors all around for my Camry. That was 20 years ago! We decided to do it ourselves.
