@@graphguy yeah and people who don't like to waste their time, cough premiere cough. Funny thing is that i have quite a few subs. When this video goes live, it might be way way down in my sub box, and i might never go there, or even worse, i've clicked on it, and now it shows i've watched it. :D and we are the fucking morons.
@@graphguy Wait i have more. Almost every youtube i've subbed tried this feature. And i say tried because they all got the hate for it, complained about it, and those youtubers stopped using it, from the 100 something (active) subs i have only 3 people STILL USE IT. So they don't listen to the community. If you use premiere or not, people who subbed and like your content WILL WATCH IT. but using the premiere option has a downside to it. I really like this channel, i've subbed more than a year ago and i've watched every single video and it's whole length.
Yeah I noticed that also with uploads... I always get 1 negative without even made the link public. Looks like there are some 'bots' out there to do such stuff ... I think...
I’m addicted to this channel! It’s just so much fun watching someone do something the love doing!!! Thanks so much! Regular TV is so bad that it nice to have RU-vid and people like you doing great work! I appreciate you sharing!
AstroBackyard Trevor, so at the end you say that image was over 2+ hours exposure but really how many stacked images was it? You were taking like 20 second exposures for 2 hours with how much time inbetween exposures?
Great video Trevor. I have never considered using my 5oomm zoom lens for deep sky before but I think I might give it a try. Thanks for the inspiration !
I just shot 3.5 hours Saturday(Jan 25 2020) oof the horse head and flame nebula. Same lens, Canon 7d mkii and the star adventurer tracker. I did get decent results of the Orion Nebula with only 25 minutes at ISO 320. Not as full as Trevor's, but definitely some good detail. Can't wait to get some more time on it. Cheers
Bonjour Trevor ! I’d like to take this opportunity to thank you for all your videos and helping us newbies ... And on that note, wishing you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 2019 ( and clear skies ! ) to you and your family... Joyeux Noël et Bonne Année from here in Québec !
Oh man, the Mass Effect music, fantastic choice! Also, great video. Whenever I have an astrophotography question, you already have a vid for it! Keep it up.
Dude Hes such a Great And Sincere Man That Tries to inform and entertain us. You got the hang of this hobby. And now you are helping new ametours like us to get the hang of this hobby
I'm very new to astrophotography. I just bought the Canon EF 300mm f/4 L IS USM. Did I do any mistake in buying the "IS" version? Image quality is what I'm worried about and the difference between IS and Non IS
l have a Nikon d610 and a Nikon d5300 300mm and 200mm with 2x converter, SKywatcher star tracker and a old heavy duty mount which is ideal basically a good setup for me as a newbie to astrophotography. l have one problem here in northwest of UK rain, rain, rain and more rain, nothing but cloud cover. By the time l do have a session it might for 1/2 hour and also having to get up for work at 5:15 am each morning doesn't help. Well l will keep trying Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to everyone. :-)
lol dude, when i started reading your comment i knew it would turn south, it sounded well to good :D , thats life i guess, you just have to keep watching the sky^^ happy new year
Hello mate, im in the north west too. I bought a skywatcher tracking mount before xmas and only got to fully try it out last week! Need to keep an eye on the weather forecast and have a dark site nearby to head to when clear skies arrive. All the best, mark.
Nice video, Trevor! I sometimes also use Canon's 70-200 on its far side for star fields. But you can't beat prime focus lens in terms of sharpness. Zoom lens has always some imperfections to let it work acceptably well for all the focal lengths range. Also bought and tried an old 500mm F4.5 Pentax lens, but it's no match to a current fast 500mm lenses with fluorite corrected optics, which cost a fortune. So for higher magnifications it's cheaper to use a proper telescope.
Just wanted to say thanks for your videos. I am attempting something like this with a 100-400 mk ii Canon lens and the 5D Mark IV. It's good to see what you can do with related equipment.
I have a Skyguider Pro, I love it. I've had it about a year. I use it with my Sony a77ii with a Tamron 150-600mm. It holds that load nice n steady on my Benro COM48C tripod.
I just thought it would be nice to start making an astrophotography using only DSLR and long focal length lenses - and here you are. Very handy))Good job
I know this video is old but i just struck a bargain for the same lens (only a bit newer) for $80! I'm also gonna be getting a T3i or T7i of i can. Thank you so much for inspiring me, i can't wait to start this amazing hobby!
I just got this lens and a 1.4 teleconverter with it. I did a quick comparison using the Ring Nebula to see the difference in quality with and without the teleconverter. I feel like it did have an overall positive effect. Have you tried using one? Any thoughts?
This is FANTASTIC Trevor!! ...and dead-on where I am currently with my efforts in astrophotography. GREAT JOB explaining everything to us! Like you, i am in a fairly heavily light-polluted area. Do you have any suggestions for light pollution filters for a Nikon user?
Great video Trevor. I am a bit confused though - in one of your radio talks on refractors you mentioned that DSLR lenses aren't a match for a proper telescope when it comes to imaging, or were you referring to zoom lenses as opposed to primes? I have managed to shoot M42, M31, Double Star clusters, Cygnus and the NA with my 55-250 STM lens and achieving a perfectly flat field with that is possible with lens correction profiles, the images came out very nicely- so I am already in the 'it can be done with zoom lenses' camp... FWIW though I do think imaging is probably better with a telescope as there are less elements and focusing etc. is easier - optically I'm not sure there's much difference as primes like the 300mm have beautiful glass in. I have bought my William Optics Zenithstar 73 a month ago or so and absolutely love it though I must say - focusing with it still makes me smile, it's jaw dropping compared to a telephoto lenses' focuser.
Love the topic and the image! I've done stills on a camera tripod, but haven't stacked. I've been casually watching for a used eq mount near me that's worth buying. I did make a camera plate to use my celestron slt mount but have yet to test it. Have you tried adapting one of your astro cameras to the 300mm lens? Saw an adapter for the zwo asi224 to Canon that I was thinking about 3d printing.
I dont see it mentioned here , but most of the consumer lenses are made such to have a Dreamy /slightly fuzzy /hazy image Wide Open , so for example this lens , you stop it down F5.6 to lower the Chroma , Coma and Increase Resolution tho this Lens is very good one , still stopping it down will improve the image . While a bit cheaper lens its a must , maybe even stopping it for 2 F Stops , even more .
Amazing video. I am considering Sigma Sigma 100-400mm tele for my full frame sony a7c for deep sky. What are you thoughts on this lens for deep sky? is f5-6.3 too dark? Your recommendation can go a long way. Thank you!
Great video. Just bought a 300 mm f4 IS lens for photography and can't wait to try it out with my other modded camera. Thanks for sharing and doing what you do. Very inspiring!
I’ve been using camera lenses for a long time. I use the Tamron 150-600 mm zoom, and canon T3i and I have gotten some nice pictures of the moon Orion M-31, comet love joy and more.
Trevor, great video as always. I know your review about the ioptron skyguider pro. But I have a hard time to determine if the mount I received has enough precision or not. For example, the alignment shifted when I secure the mount, which makes me really frustrated. Does it happen to you? Also the angle of eyepiece of the mount makes me painful. If you can upload a video showing how you setup the mount step by step in a really situation, I would be very much appreciated!
Hi Trevor, I’m a complete novice to not only Astro photography but also astronomy in general. My question is, what do you use as your reference documents to learn and decide on topics to study? Thanks for doing what you do, Mike
You took that with the moon out? What filter did you use? I have that sane mount and I use an olympus 300mm f4 pro on it. Thats an impressive shot. What exposure length were you able to get on thar mount? Best I've ever done is 30 seconds at 600mm equiv.
So glad i found this channel , you have helped me understand soo much, i have a nikon d5200 with 300 mm @5.6 got my first orion nebula image 2 nights ago, can i ask when you say total exposere time , roughly how many lights did u take?? I dont have a sky tracker so had to do 190 1sec exposures, f/5.6 @4032 iso , then done 20 darks then 20 dark flats ,
Amazing result Trevor!! I usually image with my old astro-modified canon 450d connected to my skywatcher 80ed and az-eq6gt mount but I like the idea of also piggybacking my nikon d7100 to the 80ed at the same time for a wide field image.
I've made some great astro pics using my Canon 300mm f/4L (but mine is the IS) as well as my 400mm f/5.6L both of which I already had for bird photography. But I must say autofocus DOES work for astro on these lenses, just have to do it on the brighter stars. Can't beat one-click autofocus to get setup quickly for a night of shooting!
There a a ton of vintage prime lenses that inexpensive and ideal for this kind of work. Look for a Tair 3s, it's super sharp and can be adapted to SLRs and Mirrorless. There is also the Pentax 300mm f4 for around £70 - 100, Pentacon / Meyer Optic 200mm, and my personal fave Zeiss 180mm f2.8
Thanks Trevor, find your videos helpful and encouraging. I'll be using a Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer with my Olympus E-M1 ll and the 300mm f/4 lens that has a 2x crop factor. I'll also be trying a new Pole-Master polar alignment camera. Hope I have clear weather, dark skies and the time to try this combo. P.S. Really enjoy your birding videos with the Mrs.
Deep Sky Stacker (DSS). It is quite popular and works well, although you sometimes have to struggle to get your stack of exposures to work. DSS will produce a single image which you still have to process with Photoshop or Gimp in order to stretch the histograms. You will have large parts of your image that are faint and some smaller parts (the stars) that are very bright. So, you have to use post-processing to turn this into a nice picture that we love to admire. But without something like DSS, there is no such thing as a single image that contains all of the data that can be processed in the first place. DSS stacks your exposures by aligning them to one another, using the star patterns. You also need darks, bias-darks and flats (taken under exactly the same conditions as your lights). There is a steep learning curve at the beginning, but I can assure you that it will work. Try it, ask questions if something really does not seem to work, but in the end, there will be an astonishing composite image of your deep sky target.
Amazing, I'm a complete novice to the astro photography world, could you let me know what the filter you have fitted in the camera is for please? Also, how do you achieve such a long exposure without over exposing or is it multiple images stacked? Thanks in advance, great channel.
I have a D7200 thats not modified at all, I was visiting my grandparents and could see the Orion constellation so I decided to take some shots, after using the usual wide angle lenses I stuck my 85mm 1.8 on to experiment and it picked up the nebula! I was so happy :D I found that if I used an exposure longer than 5 seconds however, then it didn't look very clean, not sure why.
You mean blurry? If you are not using a tracker then the longer the exposure the most the target will travel through the sensor. As the earth rotates...
@@polacofederos Yeah I figured it was probably that but I guess I wasn't expecting there to be such a difference from when I use my 14mm where I can have and exposure of around 20 seconds lol
@@marinakyriacou6525 There is an easy formula, just divide 500 by the focal lenght of the lens (including crop factor) and you get a good estimate of the seconds you can expose without too obvious star trailing. (Sorry for my english)
TREVOR, what’s your thoughts on a zoom telephoto? I don’t have any prime telephotos but have a Sony 100-400 F5.6 GM and 70-200 F2.8 GM, Sony’s flagship glass with a Sony A7R3 FUll Frame 44 MPiX camera of that matters? Would love your opinion. I also have a 24-70 I am gonna be selling to raise some cash for maybe a small telescope. Oh I just got the Optron Sky Guider.thanks so much . And of course LOVE YOUR videos. You have the knack for sure😀
I’ve been looking at the iOptron tracking mount you used for awhile for astrophotography. Is it worth buying over a telescope if one already owns fast zoom lens?. How well do you think it’d handle a D850/D500 (2.24/1.9 lbs) and a 150-600mm f/5-6.3 lens (4.4 lbs) or 70-200 f/2.8 (3.3 lbs) setup?
How do you take the shots, just push the button on and off and manually time, or just take several smaller exposures and stack them. How long is each exposure. Does the remote control handle how long each one is or do you have to manual start/stop it?
Awesome video! Would you recommend a filter that sits behind the lens like the L-Pro over one that can screw onto the front of the lens, like the Hoya light pollution filter? I can't see how there would be any difference but it would be interesting to get your opinion.
Thank you for an informative video. One generic question. If I am already investing in a computerized equatorial mount that helps track the subject, i do not necessarily need a telescope with a big aperture correct? Cuz i can track a subject for hours now. In that case, should I just focus on glass quality and focal length when buying a telescope?
i'm thinking about buying this mount, I see it has a 'auto guider' socket !, just wondering how I could fit this if I'm using a camera with a100-400 lens !, any advice please :)
Hi Trevor, Hope your well and safe, I'm wondering would the ioptron sky guider be able for a Sony a7r4 and the 200-600mm g? What weight is your camera and lens that you used with it?
Nice shots, think it would be really cool if you showed others how you have to balance the camera and mount weight to get perfect alignment to stop any drift.
Hi Trevor, I just read your article and am about to watch the video but one thing not mentioned in your article, is how the heck do you get rid of the terrible blue cast of the clip-on L-Pro filter, especially with a non mod. camera ? Do you have to set White Balance with the filter on, or custom white balance on something orange (opposite of blue) as we do with IR photo and the 720nm which gives terrible red color cast, therefor we custom white balance on green grass (Opposite of red) which neutralize the red cast. I really wonder how you remove/avoid that blue cast. Thanks for any insight.
I have a canon 6D modified for infrared, with a 200mm lens. I do not have a telescope. What inexpensive video telescope or other options would you recommend to capture some great video and photos? Thanks!
In terms of photography you are already set :) If you want to get into astro-photography you'll need first of all a tracking mount. I recommend a proper mount that comes with a telescope, because you'll soon realize that 200mm is not enough and you want to get closer to sky objects.
@@InnerCircleUS Hi, I can recommend HEQ5 or HEQ5pro. That's what I'm using now. That's also what Trevor grew out of not long ago. It's a very decent mount to dive into astrophotography. I also think Ioptron have something for intermediate level users, but I'm less familiar with their product line since they don't have a representative here in Israel.
Nice video thanks for share it. I'm considering to buy my first telescope and so far I have in mind these two telescope: Celestron Advanced VX 8" Newtonian or Celestron NexStar 8 SE. Both are around the same price (I don't want to spend more than that for my first telescope). Could you help me to figure out which one of these two is the best option to buy? If there are a third better option around the same price feel free to recommend it. Thanks in advance!
I've been thinking about doing this for a while. Recently enough I've picked up a 300mm f4 nikkor for birding with a 1.4 tc and I've a D3100 gathering dust... Sounds like a project for next year.
thanks for the inspiration, and for sharing. I ran my first Orion Nebula test with the EOS-R , Spacecat51 and ioptron Skyguider, the results are beyond expectations. As you have tried the EOS-R, how did you handle the CR3 files? I transformed mine into DNG format, but I feel I may have lost some. Let me know if you have a better method, or another stacking SW that can handle CR3 Canon raw files. Regards, Martin
Hi...Im looking into aquiring the 200mm f2.8 and the 85mm f1.2 lens for my zwo183 mono . Thanks to this video review...might even consider owning this 300mm prime lens ... Would love to see this lens paired with the hypercam cmos imager in your future video ... Thanks..
Excellent video Trevor! I'm currently using with the EOS 100d with 50mm 1.8 prime. I am impressed with the amount of detail i can get. I cannot wait to get deep into this type of photography. Cheers, Alex
I'm highly experienced at landscape photography with a great camera (Sony A99) and 400mm lens. I bought the Skyguider Pro for the eclipse in 2017 and then later began using it for deep sky on a Manfrotto tripod. I had some initial luck with the Andromeda galaxy and multi-minute exposures, but I've been failing badly at the Orion Nebula always with noticeable trailing less than a minute. Wasted 2 perfect nights and could not align, despite the phone app and putting Polaris perfectly on the grid of the scope. I read more about corrections with drift aligning, but I don't want to spend hours trying to perfect an alignment with what is substandard equipment anyway. I'm going to invest in an EQ6 and SkyWatcher 120 mm telescope and autoguiding. I'm convinced the Skyguider Pro is always going to be on the edge of a decent alignment unless someone can tell me how an autoguider can be used in tandem with a DSLR and zoom lens.
Hi there - stick at it! I honestly don’t think Polar alignment is your issue. Firstly, I would say that instead of aiming for multi minute unguided exposures with your setup, aim for shorter exposures in the 30-60 second range. Proper equatorial mounts can struggle with unguided lengthy shots, let alone the Skyguider, especially at a 400mm focal length which magnifies tracking errors. If you want to go more than a minute, you should use a more forgiving lens than 400mm. If you want to stick with the 400mm, then aim for shorter exposures, with the peak of the histogram 1/4 to 1/3 from the left hand side - not over or under exposed. Then take as many of those 30-60 second shots as you can and stack them using software such as the free DeepSkyStacker - stacking lowers the random noise by essentially averaging the shots. That approach will get you nice results before you start looking at advanced things like calibration frames. If you want to auto guide, you will need a separate small guide scope attached to the DSLR and a guide camera either operated by a laptop or a standalone guider like the Lacerta MGen. I would say master the unguided approach first and then guiding to the mix for extra accuracy. Just my thoughts, hope it helps!
Very interesting! I own a Canon EF 500/4 L IS, but it has never crossed my mind that I could use it for astrophotography. This opens new possibilities! :) The 500/4 is a lot bigger than the 300/4, so I guess a beefier mount than the SkyGuider Pro is needed. What should I get? Any recommendations or considerations?
Hi ! 😁 Very informative video 😜 I have a 500 mm F / 4 for Wildlife and I wanted to know if I could use this lens to deepsky astro photo without too much to invest at the beginning :) I imagine that weight is a problem because my lens weight 3.3 kg approximately. Is it possible to use a manual mount with this focal length? Or is there an equatorial mount not too expensive wich support the weight of this monster? Thank you so much :)
A great video. The only thing I would add is a lens hood for a dew shield as it save having the heated dew shield. But my wife bought me heated shield now for Christmas lol.
hi Trevor. nice tutorial.. i have a Canon M50 with Canon 70-300 lens USM (f4.0 to 5.6), but also using a viltrox speedbooster which can bring it down to f4.0 at 300mm. Would i be able to use this setup to get a deepsky object like Orion Nebula? Also it is possible to attach the light pollution filter you featured on a mirrorless camera like Canon M50?
I've never been into deep space photography and actually not sure how I ended up here but I'm glad I did :) VERY nice photography and love to see your passion shining through the video :) Just one question. Wouldn't it be better to use a more light sensitive full frame camera like the Sony A7 iii?
I'm interested and astrophotography and understand the Skyguider pro, but what I'm lost on is how you know where to point the camera and actually find what you are looking for? Thank you
Man, I have watched a couple of your vids today, the music in which have made me want to get my Xbox out of storage so that Shepherd can save the galaxy again
Question? I use a Sony A7R3 and a 100-400 Gmaster on a skyguider Pro. I’m curious what you think about going cropped or not as it would take my 400mm to 600mm.
I must ask, I've been thinking of using my D90 (no mods) and my Nikkor 80-200 f:2,8 or 80-400 f5.6?. But will this work well on my mount which is an HEQ5-pro? The first thing I think of is obvious like it's not meant to handle such light loads like a Nikon D90 DSLR.
It would work amazing on the HEQ5, its a bit overkill but its exactly the same as a smaller EQ mount for a dslr and lens combo. Just make sure there are no unnecessary counterweights and that you have a dead on polar alignment. However i don't think you'll get the same quality as trevor's without a light pollution filter...
Great as always, but it does reflect one of my earlier opinion.. I am not yet expert enough to see a difference in an astrophotography took with a camera lens or with a refractor. The one that you got here (6:18) looks really good, even compared to many refractors I have seen..
Love your channel! Looking for your advice Trevor I have a Canon 6D I would like to modify for Astro. Mostly wide angle Milky Way astrolandscape with a tracker. I would like to get into some easier deep sky objects particularly Orion, Pleadies, Andromeda .with my Canon 300 mm and 400mm prime lenses Which modification is better for this, full spectrum mod, or visible H-Alpha modification? Thank you so much for your help Theresa
Love your videos! I’m just getting into astrophotography and learning something me everyday!! Do you happen to have a video that explains why or how you are taking hours upon hours of exposure?
I dont know shit about cameras or the processing but my educated guess would be because stars are billions of light years away...if you want an HD picture well it takes longer to compose it. Idk
with zoom lenses youll lose sharpness over a prime lens and the focal length even with cropping might be a little on the short end. what camera are you using?
