Defrost issues 

As a couple have said, it seems to be a moisture problem not a equipment problem. I have seen that kind of moisture before as I worked numerous years in grocery stores. Looks more like either a leak in the box letting in warm moist air or door being open for long period of times.

I swear this is the best voice in HVAC!

Remember the IR thermometer doesn’t measure just where the dot is. It’s a ever widening cone based on how far away you are.

Hey Bill, What May have helped in this situation is a 6 pack of AAB TS-100 temperature and humidity data loggers... they would record around the clock for a week or so then you can see what happens during the week. I have used them to verify economizer operation while letting things operate without jumping them out ! Just a suggestion! Thanks for the video! 👍

Great video - helped me learn a lot about these units.

Good video Curious. Just use couple wire ties and relocate the defrost termination and fan delay switch to secure it to one of the return U bends , “as an experiment “ I’m sure it will work and kick the unit out of defrost in 15-25 min max rather than 38-45 , just do that you can prove your point to the manufacturer. Refrigeration is tough man . I would Take pics and a short video as proof . Good video 👍🏼.

Great job

Refrigeration manufacturers will tell you to do ridiculous things that waste your energy. They do not know the answers and don't care. You had it solved with the 6 times a day 15 minute defrost, thats all you need for that small evaporator. I would add curtains to the door. Thanks for all the follow thru videos. I have the same issue which i am working on replacing the ripped curtains and I am going to try lowering the defrost times like you did and I will let you know how that goes. I also found the coil mounted dt and fd switches removed and dangling from the coil which I mounted back and tested to be working. And that coil mounted dt switch takes it out of defrost within 10-15 minutes, it never goes the full 30 minutes.

adding a coil sensor would correct all those issues.............

I had a 14 x 20 walk in freezer that would frost up like this, i moved the term sw to the top of the frame and run 5 defrosts per day and it kept it very clear. moisture was a prob in this case because this was a packaged ice storage freezer and the door was opened quite often when bagging and on truck loading day. I also only ran it at about 15 degrees and we also had a curtain on the door. oh how i miss the days of running my own business and doing all my own repair work.

Looks like you might've gotten some good parts out of this deal. You'll get it. We confidense you! GBWYou!

Moisture coming in from ceiling.also they keeping the door open(to many leak) Good video.

Bill’s the man !

Totally agree with whitedartonpt , his voice is the best.

How is the door to the walk in? Is it sealing well? Do the employees at this location enter and exit the walk in very frequently ? Might need to make sure the box is sealed well to prevent humid air ingress.

If look at video again, take a look at wer u connect black wire. Looks like terminal is h4. Wouldn't that b a heater circuit. N black wire should b on fan circuit. Some blocks have f terminal but didn't c one. Anyway from the issues it seemed to b having maybe its wired wrong from factory. Always enjoy videos 📹. Thanks

Next time put the lid on, temperature might rise sooner near the switch. How is the seal on the door to the walk in? Does it close automatically?

Good video as always. It can be frustratingly times. I think it has problem with coil sensor and if you can move sensor different location in upper coil ? Thanks for sharing with us sir. 👍

Looks like your having Fun ! Have you tried setting DEF clock to 4 times per 24 hr cycle an shorten defrost time by one pin . To help solve droplets on ceiling ? Defrost termination temp. sensor is secondary or fail safe to clock . Good luck , will be watching at 6 pm CA. HVAC OVERTIME

Thanks for the follow up(s) video Bill! Definitely can be frustrating dealing with warranty calls like that.

Thanks for the Video! Nice head scratcher. I didn't hear anything about the drain? How is it plumbed? My 300 mile perspective is it's a infiltration issue, either through the box, floor, door or drain. Please let us know how it gets fixed.

Well I hope they let you keep the clock and the switches you replaced , free spare parts for the van , innit ! Also , maybe the customer will get fed up with the manufacturer and accept the solution you'll provide , and he'll be appreciative and give you business... Btw , I've heard of some meters getting moisture infiltration from being in and out of freezers , have you ever had that with yours ? Cheers mate 👍.

So what it may be is the 2 wire heater limit may be cutting in and out during defrost, thus why the front of the coil takes forever to get to 55 degrees to terminate on X. That system looks undersized, 2 fan freezer is no bigger than 9000 btu for low temp. Either way 15 minutes and it should terminate if there is heavy frost on that coil.

Is the drain working ? Not leaving water in the pan. That would cause a build up of moister. And the fans would pick up and disperse. Out and around the box.????

Good video

Nice video. Whats on the roof of the box? Moisture coming in from ceiling. Just throwing stuff out there. Great patience

What an exercise in futility, I feel your pain. The defrost termination sensor should have been relocated. Problem solved.

How do you decide how many defrosts you need? I have the luxury of being a maintenance guy so I can watch every defrost to check frost buildup.

Good one 👍

I wonder if thermal conduction compound would give faster response.

Moisture needs to be removed from box to stop the cycle open door turn on fans during defrost ?

How much condensate is that freezer making? It looks like the box is not sealed and it's sucking in moisture from outside, or someone is leaving the door open.

I think you have a condensation drain problem, look at a pan if there still moisture in it after the freeze cycle starts on, if it is fixed drain line.

did one found box never put together right leaking from bottom

This type of service call is the style you never see in a book,.... only real life ... Funny thing is, this is a classically common thing I see in the field in commercial walk ins. Another is the low/ med temperature box with a divider panel. Or the one where you walk thru the med to get to the low temp box. I had one with a roof leaking down on the box from above... These are the head ache cases. Echhhhh

After setting the 6 x 15min defrost times, it seemed like the problem was more or less solved....I am having a similar frosting problem in our walk in box...presently, we have 4 x 30min defrosts set. I am noticing some ice build up in the drain pan....do you think its worth adjusting the defrost clock? Any insight is greatly appreciated!!!

And I bet a better controller and termination sensor would fix it as you said.

Could the elements be making too much heat causing all the frost frost is only made from moisture

Well the first question I asked myself is where all that moisture is supposed to go? Is it supposed to freeze on the evaporator and go out the evaporator drain during defrost? Perhaps the temperature of the evaporator is wrong? Just curious. I like your videos.

Follow-up or not , good vid ...

Wonder if those two termination stats got mounted in the wrong place in the factory?

Do you remember that you forgot to put one of the blades on this freezer unit when you put the guards on?

at 10:47 in the upper left. That looks like another sensor. I'm have no experience with this, just I see things and ask questions.

Did they pay for all your trips back under warranty

looks to me like too much moisture is going in the box for it to cope with. Maybe employees fiddling around with door open? heavily wet mopping inside? deliveries getting rain soaked? box/door leaking too much moisture in? drain clogged or pan holding water, from being buckled up in the center? if it's taking that long to trip the termination, there would have to be heavy ice build up on the inside opposite of that area to keep it cold for so long. maybe moving the switch would help, but I'd be afraid it would ice up out into the fan blade then. I'm more of still on too much moisture is going in to be removed or it's just not draining away and pooling up evaporating back into the air

I would put Dixell control digital ,,whit sensor,,,easy to install,,,,easy to programm,,,,,!, solve the problem....saludos Lorenzo ,,,,

infiltration appears to exceed exfiltration.

Was the defrost element checked with a clamp or did I miss it? Btw those laser temp sensors can be way off not accurate on shiny surfaces.

If it was my job I would refer tech to my video it would have to help

So I’d get a 8145-20 and install it in order to setup a 20min defrost time instead of only 15 and 30mins. But obviously if turning defrost times down helps, I’d do 6-8 at 15mins each. Great job! Hate nuisance calls like this that no mfr wants to accept responsibility for!

So you set it at 6 defrost cycles and it works fine then the customer starts thinking “so hey lets change it back to what it was before because as a customer I am only worried it is using too much electricity and causing my bills to go up. By the way if you could get me those TPS reports before you go that would be great mmkay (Office Space). ” Idiots! Lol. Good luck man, hopefully you are making money with all the back and forth; I know how that can go sometimes.

Froze drain or clogged or heat tape isue insulation and also refrigerant u need check charge

Hello man good jod

👍👍👍

sounds like the typical manufacturer run around that does not want to admit the engineer that setup the system could be at fault and the techs out in the field do not know what they are talking about. They act as if those of use who went through school or have years under the belt have not seen these issues. This manufacturer seems to act as if you are the owner of the unit and just delaying until warranty runs out. Hope you get somewhere soon with this, like along the lines of what you suggested.

this switch is just vary poorly located and the manufactory is trying to put a bandage on a problem rather then just fix it right. but hay the warranty work is paying work.

Hello sir. Saw you on the live show just the other day! Cool! Anyway not sure like the live shows, not simple viewer fan friendly! They seem geared more to worker, employee of HVAC gang. Which is okay. Just not viewer fan friendly.

Your txv bulb is not mounted properly. For one it’s on the header and if you mount it in a vertical pipe the pig tail needs to be on top.

Is the walk in level? Your leaking air from the seems. Or you have moisture inside of your panels.

This box must have been built over a swamp! Is this box in the basement?

Think that the poor roofing, soaked frozen insulation in your first video which I assume was never addressed they way you wanted (empty box, dry and dehumidify, seal seams and before anything, bring in a roofer) is creating environment the box is not designed to overcome.

Shop vac up all the water

#73 thumbs uP

Two letters one number solve all those problem kE2.

That is stupid. You need a curtain at the door. And you need to silicone and close all gaps from outside of the box. In other words that thing has to come apart and build the right way.

the frost is from all the hot air from your mouth :)) joking of course lol

Coil looks undersize.....peace..