Hey, thanks for the video it’s certainly saved me a lot of time. One other thing to add and another possible fault condition; the thermal paste between the heating element and the pad on my unit was very thin and missing in about half of the ring. It created a hotspot which ended up blowing out the fuse. Even in the traditional case, I would recommend removing and reapplying thermal paste between the two as it is necessary for effective heat transfer.
I'm very confused with how this video has 12,000 views... I was never expecting that. I guess I wanna say thanks for watching and I hope I helped some of you!
My daughter and I both have the same machine as this one. Both have failed. The thermal fuses did indeed blow in both machines because the thermal switch failed. This is a common problem in these machines so you should NOT purchase them to start with. In fact I wouldn't purchase any DeLonghi machine, because they are poorly engineered. Even even you replace the switch as I did with an original DeLonghi part, it's only a matter of time (weeks) before that switch fails. I have replaced these switches in both machines with new switches from a different manufacturer. One side of the terminal lead on one switch melted and the other switch just fried itself. What was interesting is that the thermal fuses didn't blow but the switches just failed. I replaced these switches with ceramic switches that are rated at 16 amps at 250V 145C. Even those switches eventually get fried (although internally). These switches are bi-metal switches that open and close at a predetermined temperatures (opens at 145C and closes at about 130C or so.) I am not certain why they burn out but my guess is that over time the heater element draws more current at it ages and and also does not heat evenly. I replaced these thermal fuses in both machines a couple of times and it was always the same one. If the heat was evenly spread out, then both should have blown or at least not always the same one. I think what is happening is that the switch is heated up way past it thermal rating because of a hot spot in the heater coil. This burns the switch contacts over time. Additionally, high current loads may cause the bi-metal switch to fail sooner by affecting the properties of the bi-metal components. I think what happens is the metal inside the switch gets super heated and combined with high current loads it causes the switch to fail over time in either open or closed mode. The original switches failed in the closed mode which means the thermal fuses will blow. The last higher current thermal switches I installed failed in the open mode. Therefore, the fuses did not blow because there was not current going through the heater. All that to say is that you are wasting your money to try and fix this machine with switches and thermal fuses. I think you would have to replace the heater coil as well. In my opinion, DeLonghi should have used a low current, low voltage thermal switch to actuate a relay to turn on and off the heater. At least that way the switch isn't burdened with shunting high power loads causing localized heat and stress on the contacts. Alternatively or additionally, they should also use a higher quality heater coil. Anyway, that's my two cents. p.s. You should NOT solder a thermal fuse. you risk blowing them with the solder heat. If you do, at least use a heat sink of some sort (alligator clip maybe) after the solder joint. It's best you use a crimp. Also, those fuses slide out of the silicone sleeve so you don't have to cut the sleeve risking a short on the metal heater.
"I think you would have to replace the heater coil as well." do you have any recommendations on a different heating coil, or is that impossible to fix? I've looked around and don't see one that matches this form factor that isn't sold/made by DeLonghi. I presume any that were made by them would have the same overheating issues.
Thanks! This happened to mine as well, right before the warranty expired but it would too much of a hassle and cost me money to send it to them. Might as well do your suggestion before it gets tossed into the trash. What a piece of garbage! The espresso part works good though. Thank you for this info.
Ok so I went through theses steps and the fuse kept blowing. I took it to a repair shop and they upgraded the fuse from 75 to 192 degree and put a thermal sleeve on it and it works again. So get a thermal fuse with a higher heat rating not the one in this video. Hope it helps.
My issue exactly. Got it from Best Buy worked fine for 16 days then coffee side stop working. Best Buy will not return/replace after 15 days 😥 called Delonghi said they will replace it after run around with tech support.
Good morning! I have the same machine. The opposite side, espresso side stoped heating. The on/off button has power. It just does not boil. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
My espresso side isn’t working, but coffee works fine. The lights for espresso work fine, but the boiler doesn’t heat up water and it doesn’t get pumped through. Any idea what that could be? Still start with fuses?
I am not quite sure, if you take it apart and the fuses and/or thermostat are blackened, that may indicate an issue. For example, the heat shield on my fuses was clouded, and looked different compared to the fuse on the opposite side.
Just opened my machine. Needed Security Torx 20 (not regular but security torx). The fuse inside is 15A 216c. This video recommends 10A 240C. Is lower amp an issue for anyone? The same amazon seller has 226c 10A, i will probably get that. 240C seems a lot when the original is 216c. Thanks!
Your saving a lot of ppl money ! But mine is leaking water from the espresso part and I already cleaned and took apart the heads!! I can’t figure out how to get the top plastic off so I can see what’s the issue with the water can you help?
I used your video to fix mine Model COM530M. The same fuse shorted out again a few months after I fixed. I’ve had it just under a year and it’s already junk. Ugh.
Hello I replaced one side of the FUSE [on the original was written 15A, but I installed anyway a 10A] and replaced thermostat too But still the plate its cold, when I press the button ON Any suggestion Thank you
Thank you so much for the info! really helpful and I will try o fix my machine too. Question, which one of the thermal fuses do I buy? is it the one with Rated Functioning Temperature: 73 Degree?
@@zaydzastrow8810 Thank you! I realized I could go by the one I was replacing as well! Happy to report that we have a functioning coffee machine again and thanks to your video guide it was a breeze!
Hi Zayd! Do you think the warming plate not working would be the only thing keeping my delonghi from working? I believe I’m having the same problem as you did as the warming plate doesn’t warm up and coffee doesn’t brew. I’m just not sure if that’s the only issue.
So my issue is I cannot get the water to pull through on the coffee side. It's so annoying bc my machine is barely out of the one year service warranty. Any ideas?
Sounds like the same thing. The heating element needs to be operational for percolating (pumping) the water. This must be a factory defect because atleast we 23 people have had this issue lol. Luckily mine was 1 month before warranty was up.
Thanks! I'm having a hard time finding appropriate high-temp tubing to replace the one I cut off to get to the blown thermal fuse. Were you able to find it somewhere?
Thanks a lot. I noticed some other part numbers and varying cost for the thermostat l that look identical to the one in your link. Is this 100% the correct one? Can the others be used?
Same symptoms here. No hot plate temp, no water dripping. I have continuity on the metal thermostat. Fuse does not so I know it is a fuse problem. Or is it also thermostat? Espresso side works completely fine. Why isn't the drip side at least moving the water through it? Do I have to check another pump for that side too or is that wired through the power of the hot plate somehow? Would stink to replace fuse and thermostat and then have to troubleshoot the water pump or whatever moves it through the drip side.
I bypassed the fuse, that was the problem and the thermostat. So once I get replacements and fixed, should the drip work or is there something that pumps the water up and over I need to test?
Hello! I am looking for a video on how to remove the water tank on this machine, has a roach infestation and I want to open it and make sure there is none inside anymore. I know how to unscrew the bottom but then inside I am a bit unsure on how to properly and carefuly remove the tank. do you have a video or instruction on that?
anybody know why my coffee maker wont brew.. turns on for a few seconds and shuts off again.. heating plate heats up so its not the same problem as in this video.. same model thoug??????? would really apreciate the help
@@zaydzastrow8810 yes.. Found the problem a while back.. Had to do with the electricity in the house.. Turning off the air conditioning in the house while making coffee solves the problem
You can tell that the switch is defective if the thermal fuse is blown. You can if the thermal fuse is blown by putting an ohm meter across the fuse to see if you have continuity. You can tell if you have wasted your money by looking at the brand name on the machine. Hope this helps.
I think we have this problem but we couldn't get the bottom off. We took out 2 black screws from the back and 2 silver screws from the bottom, but it still won't come off. Are there more screws? or is it just very tight?
@@zaydzastrow8810 Looking at your video, i can see that replacing the fuse is more than I can handle. We'll find someone who knows what they are doing. Thank you Zayd! Your video is really helpful, becuaue there is not a lot of information out there about this machine.
Can I ask, I am working on it now and I have already changed the motor but can I ask you how did you open the fuse golden clamp to install the new one? Thanks!
@@SaraFreixa , I remember just pushing it out from the clamps and splicing the plastic cover, than I used the clamps given by the fuses to crimp them together
I have the BC0430BC model. It uses T-20-Security screws (with the pin in the middle to prevent removal). After I got 2 black ones from the back wall and 3 silver ones from the bottom removed, I cannot get the bottom off to inspect the guts. Anybody know how to remove the bottom?
@@koreenklassen8614 Yes. There were several more relatively hidden screws that needed removal. I had to examine things with a magnifier headset to spot them.
I think I have the same problem (won't know because he totally muffles when about to state the problem!). I am going to follow your suggestion but for the future please improve the shaky video, it was hard to follow.
Thanks for the video! I Changed both the thermal fuse and the thermostat like you did. It works a few times but the same thermal fuse keeps blowing up (replaced 3 times, not soldered but crimped). I replaced the original SER1015 by NEC SEFUSE SE240E, same specs but, keeps blowing and I don't know why???! Do you have an idea?! Thanks!
