DESTROYED! Part 2: What a BUSTED CAM looks like. Briggs and Stratton OHV INTEK engine common problem 

Jeff you are lucky with the little damage that engine had I seen some engine let go and blown holes from the engine casings. Thanks for the videos.

Very useful video. Just replaced my camshaft because of that mechanism flaw. Works great. Thanks a lot.

You can rotate the crank until the intake valve is open, set the exhaust valve and then roll the crank until the exhaust is open and set the intake valve.

Darn. Wanted to see it run.

This guy knows his SHIT! I WOULD have like to see it run.

I wonder what the cage-like part that moves is? it is easy to forget the pump shaft doing that way, some people remove the pump cover in the beginning.You need a set of those bolt remover that bites into the bolt and turn it. It works great. sometimes it works to turn the cover too and it will move the bolt.

Reason can broke is most likely not changing the oil enough or running it low. You can tell this engine was not taking care of. Hell he never adjusted the lifters. The cam broke because they use the compression release broke breaking the cam. The cam was stuck because it was stuck on the exhaust lobe opening the ext. valve. He took off the valve cover to see why the engine spun free and no valve movement means broken cam. Also check your pushrods for being bent. You can use a steel pushrod on the intake as that alm. one like to bend to easy.

The Very First Thing That I Would Have Done is Pressure Wash The Engine Or Used Degreaser. Good Tip Is When You Are Ready To Tighten The Bolts, Use A Marking Pen & Mark The Bolt Tightening Sequence Near The Bolt Holes On The Sump. That's If You Clean The Outside Of The Sump, Un-Like In This Video. It Doesn't Take Much To Clean These Guys. Not A Good Way To Use A Wood Chisel. My God Jeff You Should Have Put A New Bolt In The Pump. I Would Not Be Happy If You Done That To My Motor. You Don't Need to Be At TDC To Adjust The Valves. If One Is Fully Down You Can Adjust The Other. W D 40 Actually Dilutes The Oil You Put On. I Would Never Put A Dirty Sump Back On With Out Cleaning The Outside . Over All Not A Bad Job I Guess....

The oil can reminded me of the tin man for some reason ! Great video Jeff!

What's with squirting all of that oil onto parts that are in a crankcase with oil in it and gonna be covered in oil the first time that engine cranks.

I love the sound of the oil can, it reminds me of the wizard of oz.

Great video. Think you could have skipped a lot of the gasket removal.

Thanks for the great video, really enjoyed the heck out of that! I really hate getting the old sump gaskets off of Briggs engines, they seem to be more difficult than any other make.

between those "foul" mouth chickens and that old school oil can, I couldn't quit laughing!!!!

Great job. I miss working on those motors. My problem is that I never seem to be able to put it back together. Maybe it’s cause I work at Ford. 👍🏻

Nothing is "given". Maybe "provided"? Customers, presumably, pay for everything, including any free stuff. The seller simply adds to the price, then "gives" things away.

Excellent repair. Shame about not seeing it run though. Keep filming :)

Absolutely awesome video. Thank you for making this video.

Look into getting KNIPEX Pliers Wrenches, I swear to you they're the best tool I've ever bought. You'll never strip another bolt or nut if you can get one of them on it to break the torque. Hands down, best tool I've ever bought.

The motor should have been cleaned thoroughly before even taken apart.

Best way to help the oil seal is to use a automotive window bone. This will really help since it is made of nylon which will make sure the seal is not cut or nicked. Using a feeler gauge is not the trick, Just saying Jeff.

Can you make a video on how the pressure lubed engines work and how the oil filter and pump work in those engines?

According to the B&S repair manual, one of the bolts in each of the crankcase cover styles is supposed to have sealant. The manual shows a photo of exactly which bolt gets sealant for each engine.

I have thought about starting a RU-vid channel. I have enough machines to keep me going for a year or so, but there is one thing stopping me. I have found that my machines respond better if I assist the new parts with copious amounts of foul language. I could never do my best work and still be monetized at the same time, lol.

Buy yourself an automotive trans seal installer for lip seals. Works awesome on those seals. No cutting

looks like the seal on the shaft came out when you had the cover back on.

Where did small plastic piece with Reed valve go

LMAO @ @ oh my, my, my!! "Combustion Stroke" it's top dead centre of the "compression stroke". I do hope the customer see's or hears about how you mangled that little bolt and didn't replace it. That is NOT the condition you leave customers equipment in!!

Our PONY had all the signs of a busted Cam so for now we took a long Magnet & put through the oil filler tube & we caught the Lip piece of the Cam & lil bit of Misc metal piece & will change the oil next week.... ✌

Was the floor grit on the cam shaft part of the assembly lube?

Good video. I will remove that oil pump cover when the case has that bottom cover off...just in case those bolts give me a problem. I would never have put that bolt back though. Hardware store I will go...

How about some EP (extreme pressure) lube on the cam - lifter interface?

Good job Jeff, I would like add an suggestion in a problem not mentioned on the Briggs & Stratton engine. The intake tappet/lifter in engine I serviced was seized, I dont know if this is the root cause for breakage of the compression mechanism or cam gear found in other youtube videos; just theory, I believe it should be carefully noted.

That cam cover doesn't need to be super tight it just needs to be snug that's why you had trouble getting it out somebody else was in there before you

24:08 I’m having trouble with oil leaking out through this casing. I’m not sure why because I’m getting these screws as tight as I could without damaging them. Do you happen to have the part # for this o ring?

If that socket is twelve point used on the oil pump switch it out for a six👍

I don't know if you check comments on a video this old, but I have a question. I have a Troy Bilt mower with a Briggs Intek engine. The original owner was using it, hit something, and never could get it to start again. She took it to a neighbor of mine that was a shadetree small engine mechanic. He diagnosed it as a locked up engine, and she didn't want to pay for an engine, so she left it with him. It sat in his backyard for a couple of years before it was given to me. Since it had a locked up engine, I just used it for parts and never even checked it. It sat in my backyard for a year or so, before I finally got around to breaking it down. When I started messing with it, I found that it was building up too much compression to turn over. The valves were out of adjustment, so I adjusted them and it fired right up and ran perfectly. I eventually replaced the parts I stole from it, and I ran it a few times with no issues. I eventually found out that the deck was roached, so I parked it while I looked for a deck. It sat for about a year since I have five other mowers, and when I went to start it, it is now building up too much compression again. Is that what it would typically do if the compression release is broken?

I wash out with kerosene in spray container and blow dry Let it set over night to dip dry Then oil it up really heavy

At 21:40 you could have moved the entire plate, which would have moved the screw just enough to loosen it, then grab it with vise grips....OR use a dremel tool to cut the flats down on the bolt, maybe to get the next size down socket.

We wanna see it running!

If this is a "common problem" then what is the common cause ? Is it a design flaw or too many people overtightening the tappets ?

Did Briggs and Stratton redesign this common problem relief valve or are you putting the same problem back in.

The balance weight appeared to be jammed.

Dude, for fuck sake change that god damn oil pump screw! Anyone that’ll put a screw that jacked up back into an engine is a damn hack.

Nicely done

Jeff I am a Master Service Tech and would like to say over all you do decent work ….NOT perfect …..Rather effective ….With that being said I from time to time come across lawn mower mechanics that truly have a passion …...both to learn as well as teach others . And I would be lying if I said you didn't have skills and or knowledge . However in this video I noticed several accounts of improper practice as well as 1 account of false identification of parts . Iam not calling you out to lambaste the situation rather inform . And I am certainly no hater or troll …..But you called the Tappets {lifters} …..Common mistake and easily forgivable by most because it is or was apparent what you where talking about ….LoL …...Trust me I still receive flack from some of my potential viewers about calling a solenoid a setteloid …...So I am not stereotyping ….But Jeff you advocate the Rocker arm pivots jamming screw {Torx} was 60 inch pounds yet proceeded to further torque it after the torque wrench clicked . This isn't ideal because you risk snapping the pivot or damaging the actual rocker arm stud . Jeff Tappets are common on most Briggs engines but lifters are rare …..To actually call a lifter a lifter it must be adjustable or hydro such as that of a Kohler Command for example. So Tappets are commonly found on modern small engines . You specify that you use Backyard methods...... Just don't apply Shade Tree Tactics as proper tools are imperative in many cases to deliver the best results for a customer . I wont to note that my opening comment wasn't intended to sound as if I was the proper procedure Police LOL...and there is no crime in misidentification of parts so long as your collective viewers are able to distinguish the difference in the mistake . And clearly anyone could . ….But in the last few videos I have watched on your channel I have witnessed you trying to apply vise grips to a oil pump cover screw to remove it …….bending of a blower housing to remove a twin cylinder coil or armature from a cannibalized engine …….Now granted it was a junk engine but seeing you committed to the task....well often you disregard logistics because your fixated on the speed of the repair …..{Example} using what appeared to be a chisel to drive the oil pump screw towards a loosened state might make many viewers cringe . Still I wont judge to harshly as we all find our selves in troublesome situations. So keep up the good work ….You have made many great videos that are very informative ….Just watch those shade tree tactics as I am sure your not trying to advocate them upon your viewers .

Looked like the govener fell out alignment off the lever as you were putting the sump cover on Jeff.

Did you ever conclude this video? If not I am sure that engine fired right up.

I just recently got a Snapper with the OHV Intek Briggs. It will spin free for a bit, then it locks down, it turns backwards fine though. Do you think this could be my problem?

Hey jeff same thing happen to my mover but the cam is fine the govnor/slinger is messed up the compression release things came off do you have the part numbers

The only thing I see good on that engine is the wix oil filter 🥴

@25:00 Had me cryin' lol

I have the same engine seems like manuals and parts are difficult to find any pointers??

How would you ever try to remove cam without removing valve train ?

Good video but change your oil can !!!!

You do not use wd40 engine lube you are supposed to use strate motor oil dude

These motors are pretty much indestructible. Human error is their ONLY enemy. You could throw that back together haphazardly and it would still fire. I understand you need to fill video time but, rotating the torque is not that important. Oh, that part you refer to as the governor......... it’s the oil slinger!😂

WARNING!!!! do not set the valves like this man.... Google correct method!!!!

When turtle talking you don't go beyond where it clicks so you get a 60 inch pounds you put 75 on it because you went to far I'm just being a little critical of your bad habits

And no gasket or sealer on valve cover? You're kidding, right?

Loved the video by the way Must be hard to make money on repairs like that...

Worst engines ever ... The compression release will always fail and the debris will eat up the timing gear, cam gear, governor, causing metal all in the engine The head gasket are constantly blowing. . Briggs should had put an extra head bolt next to where they've always blow, middle right side .. . Not enough pressure to keep the head gasket down. .Total junk ....

Useless WD 40

That's not sealant, threadlocker

Sorry, but we don’t believe the engine ran.

I stopped watching when you put the stripped-head screw back in the oil pump cover.