This thing is so nasty. Im rebuilding my camaro after sitting for 13 years and you are the guy I go for guidance. More and more people are restoring these cars
@Martin Ramos, I have an 87 GTA that I'm putting an LS-3 and T-56 in, but it's not going to be anything like this dude's car! For one, I don't have the means to go to the lengths of everything he's done and damn sure don't have the money to pay someone to do it. However, there is one thing I'd be willing to pay someone to do and that's the fuel pump access cutout. He made a video a while back how he did his. It's awesome and looks like it was a factory option. I have done my suspension with all UMI stuff from Texas Speed. Have Koni shocks and struts and it ride's so good! I'd really love to have all these things done to my car but I'll just be happy to have the LS and T-56! Also have a 9" Moser. Can't wait to get it finished, going to hurt some serious feelings on the street. Especially the Mopar 392's!!
New subscriber here!....I love your channel!... straight to the point and the step by step is what I enjoy!...I have a 100% rust free 91 where I plan on doing the connectors the wonder bar and all the chassis stiffening I can possibly do to the car because I plan on making huge power with a LS7!...I love your car and the progress on it is awesome!...can't wait to start on mine!...Nick from Michigan!
You should consider welding the forms on the front the doublers attach to. Where they weld to the front subframe is like 5-6 spot welds which are oftentimes fatigued already. Full seam weld isn't needed but a few 1-2 inch stitches will make that area more Ridgid. Same for the rear subframe area the spot welds to the floor pan are often fatigued. I have considered these subframe connectors on my firebird but I like the stock interior so I look forward to seeing how the carpet and kicker panels fit.
Another great and informative video. This car will be near perfect when you are done. Look forward to doing mine soon as well. I dont own a TIG, so I will MIG mine. Enjoy
Did it make a difference with the subframe connectors ? I have some newer gto seats I wanna place in my car was wondering if able to cut and weld floor pan so they sit lower and still use subframe connectors ?
as long as the seat doesn't come within 2in of the rockers, it's fine. you can lower the florpan if you want, but there are other low profile options available.
I did, however the inner SFC don't clear the Holley t56 mount. so I had to remove the inners. but that meant running 1 SFC , hence installing this stronger SFC. old SFC were given away to local third gen guys
I had the UMI outers and Alston inner before. 2 sets. but I couldn't run inner SFC with the holley t56 mount. So I had to run a single strong set. these SFC is stronger than those 2 combined. the other SFC are perfect for non raced 3rd gens.
So your say they were worth the extra expense and effort of installation after it's all said and done then? They look really stout, but a smidge intimidating as a Girl new to welding with a Flux Cored Machine 😆.
It really depends on what you want to do with your car. Are you gonna seriously racing it or do you just want to have a stiffer chassis for spirited driving or simply more horespower. As Weld-in stuff is forbidden in my country I had to use bolt-in stuff. I have to say I'm really happy with my JEGS Bolt-In SFCs. All guys who have driven my car could spot instantly that it is much more rigid and does not flex anymore. You just have to make sure that you install them right and tighten them down correctly. I have them on since several years and no issues. The installation was also much easier than weld-in. The DSC SFC are top notch stuff and are doing what they do but for my hemisphere they are to intrusive. If the inspection guy is complaining the SFCs I can simply unbolt them and reinstall them after the inspection. Switzerland is annoying when coming to car modifications....
@@firefox7530 thank you so much for your Input on this. I don't plan to race the car at all, she's just got some extra ponys and I want to stop stiffen her up and make her a bit safer and handle better.
@@ariyanadumon4549 Well then I would not do somehting that intrusive like the DSC SFCs. There are better options without cutting up the car even on weld-in versions. Or read up on the JEGS, a lot of people have had good experiences with them. They are really beefy: gallery.gruppo-radicale.ch/albums/userpics/10001/2020-07-10_15_52_55.jpg
@@ariyanadumon4549 IF you happen to have an older 3rd gen style body SFCs work wonders but also don't forget small things like a wonderbar (can be bought for $60 ish bucks or made) in the front to tie the front frame together right where the steering box is, secondly if you have a friend have them hop in the car and turn the wheel with the hood open and look for flex at the steering box mount, i had this happen to my vehicle and a small couple millimeters of flex added half an inch of dead play in my steering. Finally the last thing you can do is box in the stock trailing arms by welding a plate in, this is the cheaper option or buy an aftermarket tubular trailing arm to eliminate flex, pair it with an adjustable panhard and you will be golden! Happy driving!
it has Zinc and seam sealer. so you have to burn that off, then make a good weld. oem is just held in by a single bolt, so anything is stronger that that.
if 0.1 seconds matters to you, the DSE SFC are the way to go. they are stiffer than 2 sets of SFC I had before. but yes, 99% of regular owners don't need those DSE SFC
tends to happen when I only have a small time period to speak between steps. you can watch other content that 3x as long with useless info instead i guess?
