DHM S1 Cam Install in the 2022 Honda Grom 

Solid idea. I will try that when I do my install here in the coming weeks.

Those have become my official garage shoes.

beat me to it! : )

It's strange that people have are having difference experiences with it. I've taken mine off a couple of times now and have been able to put it on with about the same effort as in the video. Did you try holding the chain with one hand and slightly rotating the flywheel to make sure that the chain wasn't caught or snagged somehow? Either way glad to hear you got it fixed, but it'd be great if you could figure out why so you don't have to take it to a shop when you do a big bore kit ;)

@@eastcoastish do I need to lubricate the cam before install?

Doing it now, think it only needs to go the depth of the tab.

I’m running the 0.005” clearance at the moment. I noted it in the pop up in the video.

The engine stuff *should* be the same although I know the 2019 Monkey and 2019 Grom had ECUs that were pinned slightly differently - the physical engine though, aside from color differences were the same.

If the links are marked you should be good, just confirm once it's on that everything is lined up and you can see the circle and carrot on the cam gear and the "T" mark through the window. As you can see in the video, I'm not a big guy but using the needle nose pliers through those two rear holes made it pretty easy for me. How close were you to getting it on? you may want to hold the chain with your left hand and move the flywheel back and forth to make sure nothing is caught up somewhere? As far as the bent tab, can you not just bend it back? It shouldn't matter if that part of the cam is marred up so don't sweat that. Also when putting on the gear, put pressure with your left hand on the gear as you pull it left with your right hand. I was surprised how easily it wanted to slide into place, with everything oiled up it slipped on as soon as it was close.

eastcoastish man, thank you for the quick response. I was doing it the way you were in the video, and they way you basically describe it. It’s like it was so close to being on, bur the actual circle in the middle of the sprocket was just like 2 hairs away from searing on. So I was trying to hold it in place, to keep tension on the chain and rotate the flywheel, to make sure I had enough slack, and didn’t lose my position- I guess that little tab ended up catching and it bound up. It was bent pretty bad, not fixable. I ended up just removing it to make sure that it would still in fact sit on the cam (wirh out the chain) Maybe my leverage was wrong. But I was using needle nose pliers, and I couldn’t get it forward (more towards the front of the bike) no matter how hard I seemed to pull. Hopefully the new sprocket comes in this week. Last time I tried to order parts, literally nothing was in stock. The ease of which mine came off, and how yours went on, I figured I should have no problem. All I want to do is keep trying, and now I wait..... I’ll keep you updated. Thanks again!

So I got it on. Maybe because it’s 30degress ish here, it wasn’t as easy to overcome the cam tension. The cam tensioner seems to be hydraulic, and it is a 5mm Allen head just below the flywheel. I backed it out almost fully and was able to get it on. I’m using the adjustable cam sprocket. The other issue i ran into was, even though I was in TD center, and ever thing seemed to line up, I seemed to be o an different chain link than the one I had (thought) that it originally was. Possibly due to the adjustable cam sprocket, possibly due to me not being 100 certain when I removed it. After a full day of messing with it, triple checking, and deliberating weather or not to fire it up, everything seems to be working ok.

@@CIarkNova is the "o" a full link off? The bike will run bit you'll have manually advanced (or retarded) the timing if its not lined up. Do you have a timing light? Harbor Freight has a $29 one that works fine.

eastcoastish the O on the sprocket, the mark on the engine case, and the hash mark to the right of the T are all lined up. It’s just that I THOUGHT when I took it off, the tooth was on an inner chain link. So the link itself is off from the one I thought it came off of, but again, it’s possible the engine shifted a little when I turned it trying to remove the sprocket, or I was slightly off. Plus perhaps the adjustable cam itself sits different. Which I have set 2.5 marks to the right. The timing marks weren’t a link off, the physical link I thought was the link that lined up as well seemed to be different. I put it back on the link I thought it was, and yes, it was then like a full link off. I made a poston the grom forum dot net. Thanks again for the reply.

I've only down a couple of miles so far but the idle seems the same and it only seemed a little bit louder - hard to tell since the bike was pretty loud with the Yoshi pipe already...

It does move the power higher in the band but that’s typically where you want it.

@@eastcoastish right okay, but no flat spots when first riding it? I feel a flat spot until about 5-6k rpm

@@patrickmarkos7724 if you watch this video I show the dyno sheet after the cam, there is a bit of a flat spot around 6k for me but only for a few hundred rpm ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OyCYEm7PiTQ.html

Yeh that's what I feel only a few 100rpm, hopefully it gets better as you ride

Cam makes a pretty big difference, bigger than the intake or exhaust. Doing all 3 together (with tune) is your biggest bang for the buck when it comes to power.

@@eastcoastish I’ve heard using this cam can reduce low-end torque. Have you found that to be true?

@@jukes4499 I’ve never done only a cam and not intake/exhaust/cam - on the dyno, power curve may shift right but net power is increased across the band.

Cam shouldn’t have any reliability issues. It’s just lifting the valves higher than the stock, so you could argue some premature wear on valve springs and overall engine internals with the system having more hp, but if these issues did manifest they’d be after 10s of thousands of miles.

@@eastcoastish thanks for the reply and the additional info, love the videos btw!

Yes, that's David's recommendation with the cam, I noted it in the pop up on the video and in the comments.

@@eastcoastish must have missed it! Nice looking forward to your next video with it tuned.

No issues.

This is the small (1/4") one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MVS4T5 and this is the 3/8" one: www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/38-in-drive-digital-torque-wrench-64915.html

Those seem to be about the going OTD rates at the moment given that they seem to be still somewhat limited in supply.

You should have the ECU flashed or use a stand alone fuel management system like aRacer RCMiniX

I will at some point. The stock gearing feels good right now, when big bore kits and other performance mods come out though I'm sure I'll need to start making some changes on the gear ratios.

Its lined up correctly to the T mark, because of compression the flywheel wouldn't sit perfectly on the T without holding it. The distance between the T and the F doesn't represent a full sprocket tooth (unlike the CT70 engines where there is much more space between the tick marks) I appreciate the observation though.

You will get more performance out of them if you do. With the stock flash you will be running pretty lean. If you do get it flashed, you might as well get the cam at the same time and get the ECU flashed for all 3.

@@eastcoastish so do i have to send it to dhm or can I reset it myself like you did in your how to video?

@@quintinfawcett the reset video I did was just to set it to default - for a flash you have to send the ECU to DHM. They explain everything on their website.

@@eastcoastish ok thanks

Do you mean if you get a cam do you need a flash? If you're running anything more than an intake or an exhaust, you should get your ECU flashed or get a stand alone fuel management system like the aRacer.

@@eastcoastish is the cam Necessary if I just want to get a flash? Sorry if I worded it incorrectly im new to all of this

@@SimplyKelp No, you can get an ECU flashed for just an intake or just an exhaust or a combo of you want. Check out DHM they have all the info on flashes.

@@eastcoastish Thank you very much!

Harbor Freight

I let her keep as many shoes in the closet as she wants 😂

There's no external cam chain tensioner on the '22 Grom (like there was for the previous engines).

I use an impact wrench to just zip it off. But if you use an Allen key to remove the small circular covers, you can get a socket in there to hold it from spinning. You also need to do this to tighten/torque correctly.

I'm definitely not a real mechanic but it's clear you're not either. The timing chain keeps everything "timed," as soon as you take it off, you will need to realign everything to be timed correctly again; "setting the timing up correctly before disassembly" would not make any difference. As far as loosening the tappets before removing the cam, you can do that if you have any issue pulling the cam out, as you saw in this video, the cam came right out and the new one easily back in, so again, no need to do that either. Not sure why you're throwing shade on a video that shows how to do something that you clearly don't know how to do. Cheers.