What if anything did you do with the existing copper lines you disconnected from the HPOP ? At the end of the video I can still see them taking up some space
Will running the hpop lines to the wrong side of the head cause a no start? Thanks for the videos and information love what you are doing in the diesel owners community.
Just bought an adrenaline hpop and their instructions say to remove any crossover lines, its no longer needed and unnecessary failure down the road. Any truth, because i dont really want to take it off?
With the angled fittings it is impossible to get a socket on them for using a normal torque wrench. Did you use a crow’s foot with a torque wrench for correct torque values? Is there a “handy dandy” chart available to correct the wrench torque setting when using a crow’s foot?
Big shocker here but we totally guess. It’s a feel thing. But the correct formula is Original Torque Spec * (Effective TQ Wrench Length / Effective TQ Wrench Length + Change In Length) = Final Torque Reading. Then you will adjust from there.
My fear is that since I was told to just finger tighten it down and put some blue thred locker on it, that's all I did and I dont want it to pop loose and leave me stranded in the desert. Ive been stranded for a year in a state far from home. I need this thing prestine. The head fittings may need replaced and I finger tightened the hpop fittings on the hpop itself because I was afraid to torque it too much and break it like I did my Schrader valve return line end. Did I do that wrong? Please tell me what to do. I replaced my hpop with an adrenaline and the lines too. One of the lines sent to me, its end that goes into the passenger side head fitting just keeps popping out of the fitting. Never happened with the old line. So I dont know what could cause that? I also dont have a torque wrench and I know for sure 23 foot pounds is way more than I put on it but I dont know exactly how much that feels like to be accurate
It's kinda convenient u skipped how route the main engine harness to the bracket. On 7.3 SD the line is right smack in the middle of where this harness has to go! Without removing bracket and just letting the harness lay on the valve cover like a Hoosier or try to go above it, either way the line will rubb a hole in the wiring making it for a sure short in the future! So how do we run the harness now ?
The main harness routing to the bracket doesn’t move. This truck, some redneck took the bracket completely off the truck where the main harness connects to engine harness. What I showed here was how long and sweeping that line transition is. No matter what, you have to keep the harness from the lines, zip ties, whatever it takes. You are correct, there can be contact points, but you can avoid it by going through and making sure that you have everything zip tied out of the way.
I have watched a couple of videos besides this one, and some folks get the fittings from Ford and it calls for the use of 680 locktite for the fittings. I noticed none was used here. Is that not necessary with this kit?
I remove the 4x4 shaft so I only have the spindle with the wheel hub . So there’s no need for a manual wheel lock correct . Because theres nothing to lock or free . Just to put a metal cover from an old lock. Please tell me if I am right .
I recently had my 7.3 quit on me I was driving it and heard like a pop then die I was think hpop lines. It cranks no start but my oil light is on now and engine temp is and no lights whatsoever was on prior to this happened. After I got out and checked it leaked a lot of oil
Hey I got a question, I just installed new hpop lines including the crossover line.I took out the check valves and everything but now the truck takes forever to start.this didn’t happen before with the old lines.why is this happening?
How many miles on your install? We usually drive a HEUI install several miles before we start chasing conditions. If you took the check valves out of a stock pump, I would start with reinstalling them and see if that corrects the condition.
There were torque specs given but no torque wrench was used. Are the numbers just a rough guideline for how much force to apply with my hand? There is a kit without x over pipe. Seems easier and less failure points. How to know which one I should use?
Torque specs are correct, if you aren’t using a TQ wrench, of course pay attention to the values and don’t over tighten. There is a kit without crossover, but we like the kit that includes it.
