My British Car Auction VW Caddy keeps going into Limp Mode. A stick turbo is the suspected issue. Can Forte Turbo Cleaner fix it? Join this channel to get exclusive access to all videos early. / @chopsgarage
Rob told me off yesterday for mentioning chops garage as I was commenting about the talking hand ✋ when Rob was doing it 😆 Whoops, won't be doing that again 😂 (It's all good and he wasn't offended just picked up on it)
From my experiences with over 40 years on the spanners it's good old up selling and getting more money out of the customer. At the end of the day removing the inlet manifold and clearing all the oil and carbon out will make a big difference.
If you've got an overboost code I'd definitely be checking the turbo actuator arm (the bit that let's excess boost bleed off) make sure it moves freely and not seized if not you've got a valve that controls the vacuum to the actuator check that to make sure its supplying constant vacuum to the actuator. Next bet would probably be to try the old Mr muscle trick and soak her and see if it helps id try the more cost effective things first, I'm 99% sure a MAF sensor issue wouldn't cause an overboost issue as it is only monitoring the intake air.
The Forte Turbo cleaner is good. But, if you did not follow the usage directions the results may not be consistent. You have to add the contents to about 1/4 tank of fuel then let the engine sit at idle for 45 mins or longer, then road test the vehicle. But, not thrash it, work the turbo through various RPMs. This allows enough of the turbo cleaner to get into the turbo at a slow exhaust flow speed to start working on the gunk in the turbo. If you just put it in the tank and drive, the exhaust gas speed through the turbo is too quick for enough chemicals to soak into the gunk.
Been using forte stuff for years and always worked for me...auto box treatment also very good, fuel treatments work for getting a pass on emissions on mot tests..
James I have 1.7 cdti astra mk 4 millage 210 thou still going strong always used v power diesel seems to help gets me work and bk good luck with your van 👍
I share you reservation about an additive that has to pass through the combustion process before doing its work though I suppose some metallic lubricants such as lead, zinc or Moly could be beneficial. I always liked the idea of the Mr Muscle approach to de-carboning and thus freeing up the VNT mechanism because that is injected from the exhaust side pointing back into the engine when stopped.
The dpf burns off soot . This is achieved by the ecu injecting fuel when the piston is coming up on the exhaust stroke . This puts a hot gas and fuel mixture into the dpf causing a high temperature reaction which regenerates the dpf ( clears out the soot) . Any additive that's in the fuel will pass through the turbo and give some cleaning action but not much in my opinion.
Had good results for Forte Injector cleaner - recommended by Indy Landrover specialist, and Wynnes DPF cleaner for a crappy early DPF Citroen. Newer cars seems to have better DPF regeneration. Haven’t tried the turbo one though - I guess it would have minimal impact as a turbo uses a mixture of air and exhaust gases.
Just a thought, should be fairly obvious but not always. Check that it hasn't got one of those silly cheap plug in boost boxes on it. Had a vehicle years ago that had similar symptoms intermittently and turned out it had one hidden behind the scuttle panel (getting wet). Removed it and the problem disappeared. Certainly worth a look.
I'd just do the Italian tune-up. Go for a motorway once or twice a month for a good 20-30 minutes run and most of the problems gone. You don't really have to floor it or make it work hard like put it under load at low rpms, just let is rev above 2200-2500 for a longer period of time, and it should solve most of the problems IF it is not like one of the valves, N75 if I recall correctly.
Turbo cleaners use a fuel born catalyst (FBC) which reduces the combustion temperature of the soot particles that will be causing your VGT vanes to stick. Carbon particles normally need temps above 600°c before they combust, but the FBC will lower that to below 300°c. They use the same stuff in DPF cleaners.
In my experience VW TDI, the quickly test what's broken in engine is to put the car on 3rd gear, run around 1800 rpm and then floor it (obviously you need enough space to do this safely) until the rpm raises at least up to 4000 rpm. If the car goes to limb mode before 3000 rpm, it's probably a boost leak (split in one of the many boost pipes), if it goes to limb mode above 3000 rpm, it's probably the VNT mechanism having rust or sooth causing it to not move freely. However, if it randomly works or doesn't work, it's 99% sure it's the VNT mechanism regardless of the RPM it happens. A split pipe should fail predictively. And for maximum workload for the engine, you should run it full throttle at peak torque (typically around 1900-2200 rpm with TDI engines) instead of running it with high RPM. The high RPM produces maximum power but the maximum torque is where the engine is loaded the most mechanically.
I had a blocked dpf, cut a small hole in it, banged a crow bar in to leave a clear path but still leave some cat in to give it restriction so it doesn't go into limp mode, weld hole back up.
It’s the same as catalyst converter additives! They only work well in your tank, soon as it’s depleted the issue comes back. Manufactures think you’re going to put all of those in your tank every time you drive it.
Hi there. Must say great channel. Been watching this for a while. Iam keen on cars aswell. Iam a builder by trade but have owned a lot of cars and sold a few aswell. I like detailing cars mopping paint work and paintless dent removal. Iam no car dealer or mechanic but no the basics. Love what you're doing. My passion is cars and would love to make a business from it. Any advice? I totally agree with you to keep the customer informed and your honesty 👍 keep up the great work. Rob the builder.
Thanks Rob! There are many variations of the motor trade. Id say do what I did and try it as a side hussle for a year or so. Discover which part of the process you really love and make your mistakes while you still have the other income. For you it sounds like finding cars that already have a new mot and good service history from private sellers who have looked after the car but hit it on every corner, scraped it and left it dirty and then polish the money into it.
Chuck a litre of methylated spirit in a half take of diesel it will pick up the water and burn it off works wonders, keep diesel tanks full as possible to cut down condensation especially in winter. Good luck.
I am still here, James. I'm just waiting for a non-technical video that I can comment on. Stuff like this just goes right over my head... This is where I lose it with cars. Still, love the content, mate.
About fuel additives I don't know if this is how they work, but combustion is basically, just a chemical reaction, an exotic hydrocarbon being split into energy, carbon dioxide and water, yes it is more complicated than that because it isn't just the basic hydrocarbon combustion, but the point is there will always be water in the exhaust gases and that can combine with whatever is in the additive that either doesn't combust or the products of its combustion to clean things downwind of the combustion chamber, or something like that.
My MK3 Mondeo TDCI had very similar problems . I just took the variable vane side off the turbo ( turbo left in situ) I cleaned the vanes and found one vane was bent and snagging very slightly in the carrier , it was enough to go into limp mode . Reassemble the vanes with cotton keeping it nice and tight when reuniting back on the main turbo , the cotton is thin enough to slot the vanes back in to position and will burn off .
@@ChopsGarage Just be careful not to lose the small wheels that allow the vanes to move , that's why you use the cotton to keep everything nice and tight when reassembled .
Hi Mate. You could always move to Norfolk. There isn't so many hills, if I remember correctly. It's been 40 yrs since last there it may have got a little lumpy since..!! 😎
Hi you hit the nail on the head for me mate I watch lots car programs on tube I have said for years these guy come to work in white trainers and clean tops trousers and go home has clean like they coukd go oyt for a meal I always keep a d set if clithe becase in the real world you get oil on you and when you rolling around on the floor yoy get very dirty well done for bringi.g that up Phil In Stoke
The computer has set / fixed values to read boost from the turbo and boost controller valve block . Take the breather pipe from the turbo actuator that goes into the boost controller and take something to temp block it off like a pipe clamp for a fish tank or small vice grip pliers pinch then test , if still the same add a t piece in that line with one open end . If not then clean out the diesel fuel cooler under the car it’s inline from the fuel tank a heat exchanger , change ir if bent or blocked or clean it out it looks like a oil cooler
Have you tried unplugging the MAFS then driving the van ? if you do that the ECU will just work of the oxygen sensor on a default setting taking the MAFS out of the equation it will through up a fault code but worth trying before buying a new one...
To be honest I think you could have sorted it with redex because I think it’s just a build up of gunk in the fuel lines and injectors so with the fuel cleaner ( redex ) it cleans the fuel lines injectors and it’s nothing to do with the turbo and more so a lack of diesel so it’s putting it in limp mode. If that makes sense
I get a gallon can of dpf cleaner, put it in a spray and spray it straight into the turbo or egr valve, really wet it, don't use carb cleaner it's too volitile, I think you'd be better off with 2 used turbos tho mate, I've just sold the sharan with the same tdi 1.9, doing the same thing, advertised it as such and took 630 for it (06 plate) but as I gave 200 quid for it and used it for a building project it was OK. Regarding cleanlenes, a ramp helps, plus if your a good trades man (like Rob) you work precisely and cleaner, getting caked up means that unfortunately your not a pro, Rob and Chris are a pleasure to watch how they work, as are you James (but in a different way mate)
Did you try and disconnect the MAS and drive it to see if it was any different? Have you checked the vac pipes for splitting and to see if they were connected properly, turbo Air intake for splitting, turbo oil feed connection usually leaks and doesn't help. Do an egr delete also.
Tried those before in my disel van and really just a cetane booster. Got a load of atf fluid in my tank now. Van quieter, less smoke and quicker til the engine explodes👍🐎😀
I would say the in tank arrives, produce capers which affect the components directly, and it is these capers that doo the job. I don't know myself but I would Imagen it would work like that. I would say the van is fixed
Forte always state that adding one treatment to the tank for a maintenance treatment, or if you have a fault then you should empty two cans into the tank and drive. However, if it's the MAF then none of what you are doing will make a difference other than putting a OE new one on
Id still try it in the alfa. 12 quid is a bottle. Worth a try. Caddy Air flow meter. Get the numbers from ur one and get a decent 1. They ebay 19 quid ones are rubbish. And ur mr muscle trick maybe worth a go. Won't make it worse. Good to watch again 👍 maybe worth sticking the alfa back through the auction with the prices the way they are.
Not surprised, these additives aren't designed to fix these issues when the engine is going into limp mode. MAF is the next way to go, also try to plug it in and see if there are any "gremlins".
Surely you would have a fault code if the maf sensor was faulty. Fault finding by guess work doesn’t seem a very economic way of working. Check all your intake and vacuum hoses for leaks and make sure you have no exhaust restrictions as this will effect turbo efficiency.
How does an additive work for cleaning things like turbos and cats ect... it relies on valve overlap, but it depends on how much overlap you have and also the injection timing, "IF" any fuel is injected during the overlap period, then it would enter the exhaust unburnt......But...to keep emission low, you don't want unburnt fuel in the exhaust , so the injector is fired as late as possible . On my old Mazda 6 2ltr diesel , when it was in DPF cleaning mode, it injects extra diesel on the exhaust stroke, this unburnt fuel enters the DPF and raises the temps burning off the soot, so in theory any additive for cleaning (assuming they work) in this engine would work.... Do they work, maybe some do depending on the engine, maybe.....lots of iff's and but's and some BS lol
My mates dad has same van and for some reason when he puts supermarket fuel in it.it runs rough when he puts proper fuel in it like shell runs fine it’s a common problem on very caddy’s
I take mine for an Italian tune up every month. I take it on the Motorway when at running temp, and keep it at 3000 revs for at least half an hour. Where I used to go into limp mode all the time when labouring the car, now it never does.
@@highpath4776 Here's what happening. The DPF is clogged, the ECU is throwing 'limp mode' to protect the turbo. Running it at high revs at running temp burns off the shit in the DPF. The turbo can breathe properly, ECU is happy no more limp mode.
@@davidnelson7149 Makes Sense. Salvage Rebuilds have similar problems, its knowing when the DPF and turbo need replacing due to regular or damaging wear.
@@highpath4776 Just to give context. During my varied career as an Engineer I worked for a good while in automotive R and D. I and my colleagues constructed and tested prototypes for Mercedes, Ford , the Jaguar XK8, the first BMW iteration Range Rover and Rolls Royce. I worked in Bridge construction and ship building when I lived in Holland, and I started as an apprentice in the coal mines.
I use Diptane for Every Fill. 10ml for 10litres of fuel. Reduces fuel pump wear..I can stand by that statement! And cleans injectors. Forte Is a top notch product. It's stated on bottle not for retail sale only to professional trade. Iv been using there products for 20 years and it's good gear. Better than Wynn's redex etc.
I used forte cleaner only when my turbo vanes actually stuck and to be honest it actually worked every time . This was before scr technology I personally would not own a diesel car with scr . I do have a dpf but I would not have a vehicle with scr
I was thinking exactly the same on the turbo cleaner....i dont get how it reaches those vanes because when it reaches them its gone thru the fierce combustion process.....i would have tried the injector cleanrr separatey as putting both in you know which of 2 mixes cured the problem......personally ive zero faith in additives.
I think the Turbo cleaner is only cleaning the inlet side of the turbo. Indeed, it can not pass the combustion chamber and still be an effective cleaner for the exhaust part.
@@ChopsGarage yeah there's absolutely no way it's getting into the inlet side lol. Many debates however as to if it gets to the exhaust side after a combustion cycle too though 😅
Super unleaded diesel, like to see that 😁 always thought tank additives were snake oil, can't you read any fault codes to point you in the right direction ? 🤔
Our work used to use voltswagons and they all started to go into limp mode after about60-70k it was the gas valve in them when changed over vans perfect
Overboost most likely. I sold my tdi VW because after a new turbo it still did this. It's a pain. I changed the N valves, maf, MAP sensor on the intercooler. Same result. Sold it. Lovely car but frustrating
It's been a while, can't remember if you've said you have already, but have you checked for holes/splits/leaks in boost pipes etc? Checked the intercooler for leaks? I'm not saying replace the intercooler for no reason, only check it to rule it out 👍
From my experience using good Quality Diesal & quality engine oil changed regularly as in every 8000 miles and not 10 or 12,000 or even 18,000 as some manufacture specifications say.
James I wish you were closer to me I will come to you and do a couple of hours work every day as I am now retired free of course ! don’t change the mass airflow sensor it will not cure the problem you need to disconnect the downpipe move it away a few millimetre then use an extension tube on Mr muscle and fill up the back part of the turboWhilst covering the outlet with a piece of Perspex to stop the foam from being lost then you need to actuate The lever that operates the vanes within an hour you’ll have it all cleaned out. I’ve done it many times and has always worked for me
@@robdavis7026 Did you mean the way I did it rob? you have to fill up the whole turbo housing with the Mr muscle foam without letting any escape otherwise it won’t work inwards,
@@ChopsGarage I think it’s a 5 mm Allen key on caddy van, It’s a circular band That holds the downpipe on .when you spray in the Mr muscle you need to block the hole off so it does not escape it really needs to make its way and foam up inside
Yeah bit of plastic drilled a hole and used some tubing I had from a fish pump and had someone spray the can whilst I held the plastic and tube in place and pumped the rod to free the veins
I've been looking at buying a used VW Caddy Maxi due to their supposed renowned build quality but have noticed that every one close to 100k seem to need or have a new water pump and timing belt???
the dpf cleaner contains a chemical that binds to sut, and will then burn that sut faster at lower temp, so probably its not very effective at cleaning injectors or turbo.
I still think the turbo vanes are sticking... The forte has made a difference but it can't make it back like new... Best thing to do is take the turbo off and properly clean up the carbon and soot deposits from the vanes, and lubricate them all etc...
Have you changed the n75 valve? Depending on what generation it’ll have either an n75 valve that controls boost or a vac box that controls boost, £25ish for a new n75 valve and £20-40 for a used vacbox. I had a mk4 tdi golf with limp mode, stripped the turbo to bits, still limp mode, eventually found to be this n75 valve. Also had a fabia vrs tdi doing the same thing, ended up being the vac box.
Don't worry about the designer clothing in the workshop. Have a look at church house classics on RU-vid and see what Richard is dressed in. Certainly doesn't push the boat out in his work wear.🤭
It sounds like a faulty Moo valve, had the same exact problem on my T5, the only time it would go into limp mode was going on a specific hill and after fitting a new moo valve it never done it again
