Difficult Exhaust Stud Repair On Porsche Aluminum Heads - Top End Rebuild Pt. 5

Подписаться 16 тыс.

Просмотров 5 тыс.

50% 1

My difficult head studs were extracted eventually to repair these expensive Porsche heads without paying an arm and a leg. In my case the steel studs were so corroded, I had no choice but to drill a few of the broken studs out. I tried everything included heat, welded on washers and nuts, spiral extractors, straight extractors, left handed drill bit, penetrating oil, bees wax, dental pics, thread chasers, etc. This is a tought job especially since the usual stud remover tools won't fit due to the air cooled fins on the Porsche heads. UGH, but I got all twelve out without a single helicoil.
You can see Part 1-4 below:
Remove engine from car - • How To Remove And Diag...
Diagnose Engine Misfire - • Suspenseful Porsche 91...
Clean Up Engine Bay - • You Might As Well Clea...
Inspect Rebuilt Heads - • Unlocking Peak Perform...
Tools in this video that you need -
IR Gun - amzn.to/3Sh1W8N
Bolt Extractor Straight - amzn.to/3O2pUlL
Patreon / ahhgaragetime
Insta @ahhgaragetime
FB / ahhgaragetime
Website www.ahhgaragetime.com
Ahh Garage Time Email Stories:
mailchi.mp/b63353737df0/sign-...
00:00 Introduction to removing broken exhaust studs
00:56 Collet style stud remover is too large
02:41 Using Kroil Penetrating oil to break up corrosion
03:44 Weld a washer and nut to broken stud
04:06 Drill Broken stud
04:55 Trying straight style extractor
06:29 Picking out threads one by one
07:22 Using Tap to pull old threads out of hole
11:19 Inspecting Cylinder and Pistons
13:25 Measuring piston groove to ring clearance
#brokenbolt #brokenstud

Авто/Мото

Опубликовано:

5 авг 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 62

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

This car spent its early life on the east coast, USA. As a west coast guy this was the worst I've ever seen as far as stuck studs. The entire exhaust system was horrible.

@jamesenloe2791 6 месяцев назад

Not only am I impressed with your process of removing the broken stud, but that you didn’t immediately drop the “F-bomb” when it snapped. 😂

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

The camera wasn't on the entire 8 hours 😀. I came back and tried again several times. Some of the video footage here I was expecting it to break off, so I could drill it anyway. This was really tough, right up there with sanding.

@jeffharrison5265 6 месяцев назад

Your patience is becoming legendary. Great job.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Luckily, no heads were lost in the making of this video.

@petem6291 6 месяцев назад

Tom I work in a machine shop and you did a class A job of removing those studs . The one thing that may help you in the future is when you drill your first hole you drill all the way through the fastener to ( 3/16) as you did. But on the second hole drill 3/4 of the way through the fastener( you are leaving a little step ) then drill to a size that close to the tap drill only 3/4 to the bottom. Now when you put the extract in it bits in to that little piece of fastener that is 3/16 and you can unscrew it like a spring because you are not pushing the fastener against the wall of the casting if you do it right the little bit in the hole( the step) goes concave when you hammer the extractor down into it and it unscrews . it works every time when every thing you drill is paper thin (but not touching the threads)

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Thank you, but isn't this what I did? I thought I showed this, no. Also are you a fan of the straight extractors or spiral ones ?

@petem6291 6 месяцев назад

@@GarageTimeAutoResto you did a great job of explaining I was just throwing my 2cents in ( maybe I was not being helpful) and we have had the best luck with the straight extractors because if we break one they come out much easier . And we have had the best luck with Kroil and P/B Blaster we found they work well with heat .

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Awesome man. Thanks for the feedback and support!

@carlmclelland7624 6 месяцев назад

YES, SIR! I've worn those shoes with the broken exhaust head studs. It's never easy. You had my sympathy, especially with the difficulty you encountered. My hats off to your patience and not damaging the heads before you succeeded.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Thank you! My hands are tired. 👐👐

@dra911 6 месяцев назад

That looked quite painful, but I'm glad you got there in the end. My car came from England (salted roads took it's toll) - yet, I was fortunate enough to not suffer any broken head studs when removing the exhaust. I used one of those induction bolt heaters to loosen everything up and it worked quite well.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Cool, I'd love to have one of those heaters myself! Were you able to use it on the exhaust studs too or just the exhaust nuts?

@dra911 6 месяцев назад

I didn't try it, the studs were fine, I just cleaned them up (and the rest of the engine) and bolted up the new exhaust. So far, so good.

@DoubleRRestorations 6 месяцев назад

Nice work getting those studs out Tom. Lots of patience there.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Hi Russ, good to hear from you.

@DoubleRRestorations 6 месяцев назад

@GarageTimeAutoResto Thanks Tom, Good to be able to catch one of your vids. Been super busy lately. Going to try to get my Camaro Project restarted this week. I finally got the Mustang moved over out of my work bay. That project took way longer than I expected.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Good for you! Nobody ever gets a car project done ahead of schedule, ha ha

@ChuckJ1944 6 месяцев назад

That was really marvelous.I've Never gotten into the engine that deep. Someday maybe you could tell us the difference between compression and leak down.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Duly noted. I'm sure I could talk for hours on this, ha ha.

@annoodannoo1032 6 месяцев назад

A lot of work indeed. Thank you documenting - I learn a lot.

@theshyfarmer 6 месяцев назад

I just gave my heads to a machine shop they blasted them drilled out every exhaust stud fitted new guides and recut the valve seats. Those heads are so valuable if you damage them. Also it's a must to change the exhaust head/barrel studs

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Well done! Can you reply how much the exhaust stud replacement was? Just curious. Did they put any kind of thread inserts in the heads?

@theshyfarmer 6 месяцев назад

It was about 3 years ago and they charged about £750. They fitted inserts not sure what type but everything they did was proper. When they recut the valve seats It was a three angle cut. They also drilled the majority of the valve guides out before knocking the remainder out which is kinder on the heads. Also they checked if the heads needed skimming which they didn't. I will mention again if anyone in the UK is Interested I have all the tools and literature to assist a rebuild. A yoke to hold the motor to a stand, the spanner for the cam a wiesco piston ring compressor the cone type. A mount for the dial gauge and a little insert for calculating valve shims under the springs.

@miniprousa 6 месяцев назад

That happened to me. Worse feeling when the snap but best feeling when you take them all out.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Indeed, I'm just glad to be able to continue and finish this engine

@richvandervoort2950 6 месяцев назад

A carbide drill can be used to remove a broken off extractor or taps. I have even used cheap carbide cement drills.

@billgaytes6845 6 месяцев назад

Ive been here, the solution I found is before you break off both studs is to make yourself a drill jig with the correct spacing. bolt it down with the remaining stud and drill out the other one. Fit new stud and then repeat.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Very good advice. In fact Stomski racing makes a tool that does this. I found drilling a pilot hole and adjusting it with a carbide burr was enough to get the hole centered, but a drill fixture is a must if doing this more than once.

@doctorcountersteer6580 6 месяцев назад

Easy peezy with left handed drill bits

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

I tried that to no avail.

@pyrogenusa 6 месяцев назад

My least favorite thing are broken studs, the collet removers are the best, left hand drills also good to drill out flush breaks. I also have a 3/8” extension with a “Parker taper” and a T handle, to apply torque and use a pneumatic hammer to pound the stud. Congratulations on not killing a head in the process.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Hi John, this is such a tedious process. I tried left hand drills too. They did nothing for me. Also tapped vertically many times with a regular hammer. A few of these studs would only come out one thread at a time. This was the worst I've ever seen. Not originally a California car!

@garagechronicles9008 6 месяцев назад

I paid a shop... shame. I hope you go over piston height in the cylinder and the clearance. I have to do my 3.0 with new cylinders and JE's. Haven't done them before with the talle piston. Nice job so far, sir.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Ok, I'll do my best. This is a stock engine, so it is less likely to find any tight or potential interference spots.

@rocoporco6216 6 месяцев назад

Always love how you show the details. Patience was definitely practiced in large dose. Just wondering if you would have secured the heads, then tried removing the studs would have helped?

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Thanks! My thought process on the impact wrench and unrestrained head was to send vibration waves through the metal. The wrench is plenty strong enough to break the stud, so I kept it on the lowest setting and let it vibrate. It worked on some but not all.

@rocoporco6216 6 месяцев назад

Yes, figured... my thought process is that by securing the head, you'd have deeper penetration of energy from the impact. Starting at the lowest setting as you did. Honestly, enjoy the authenticity and patience. Keep up the good work.

@tomthompson7400 6 месяцев назад

never use an impact gun on seized studs ,, all they do is ring things off ... double nut and weld when the stud is still there is a mighty good start ,,, but its heat and reheat that does good , with a full to cold space inbetween ,,, lots of patience also the lube of choice at the moment is Wurth Injectorex , it works well where others dont seem to.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Never say never because this is the only thing that worked after doing what you suggest. These were cycled up and down in temperature over several days.

@tomthompson7400 6 месяцев назад

@@GarageTimeAutoResto ah ,,, no ,,, the trick is to heat the stud / nut combo as hot as you can , nearly white hot , then leave it ,,, repeat as needed , Ive been doing this sort of job for a long long time , and every time the rattly gun comes out things snap ,, its the thermal expansion difference that does the work , so heating it all up together does not get a big enough difference fast enough to crush the rust , then as you know a heated and constrained lump of metal shrinks back to being smaller due to the restriction , granted its better on steel than alloy , but same idea , when its cold the lube will work , but it takes time ,

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

I heated the stud several times near the head with my tig welder three times and soaked it overnight in Kroil. Yes, white hot. Sometimes drilling is necessary. How many times are you heating and cooling a stud? The aluminum expansion in the oven and the vibration from the impact gun set on low was the most effective for me. And the ones that broke were drilled.

@akokarski 6 месяцев назад

Those studs that broke were all next to fins? That’s a really tricky stud not a lot of room and thin shoulder. I would have cut the stud just long enough to put the nut on. Put a rod between the head and nut so there is a little gap weld the nut, put beeswax instead of kroil. Turn the nut in a bit then out. Either way you got it out without breaking taps or extractors

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

I tried bees wax too with no luck. That was the first thing I tried.

@cramiro71 6 месяцев назад

Hi Tom, another great video. Which in your opinion is a good workshop manual for an European targa 3.2 from 85? I bought a cheap Haynes to start with but it is too basic

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Get the Bentley manual or the factory manual is best. Also the Wayne Dempsey book on engines.

@user-ik6xc7mr5q 6 месяцев назад

My first thought would've been to remove the studs prior to sending them out for machining. Why? I worry about the heat from welding nuts onto the studs affecting valve seals...etc. Thoughts?

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Yes, it would have been better to remove the studs first. The heads get much hotter than this while driving though.

@jeffhammond8969 6 месяцев назад

Great presentation! Did you consider using an inductive heater on the studs?

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

That is a great tool, but I don't have one. I'm not sure it would fit on the stud close to the fins? I used my tig torch to heat the side of the stud and a few would still not back out even after it cooled.

@jeffhammond8969 6 месяцев назад

@@GarageTimeAutoResto makes sense. Imo, unless they would come out easy, based on what I've heard and you're experience, it would probably be worth the expense to have someone extract them.

@theshyfarmer 6 месяцев назад

I've got all the specific tools manuals to rebuild an 87 911 if anyone is interested

@Cevan42 6 месяцев назад

Curious as to why you had the heads rebuilt and then removed the exhaust studs. Also, is it somewhat rare to have Alusil cylinders on a 3.2 Carrera?

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

I thought the shop would remove the studs as part of the rebuild, but then I found out it was $700. All the 87-89 cars had Alusil I think.

@Cevan42 6 месяцев назад

Gotcha. Rebuilt my ‘86 last year and had Nikasil cylinders.

@Andrew1849 6 месяцев назад

Can new studs be stainless steel? Love your videos

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

Thanks for watching. I know titanium and stainless studs are available and both won't corrode. The only problem with stainless steel is the threads gall up. I'm going to go with yellow zinc plated steel and stay out of rain puddles😀

@ShainAndrews 6 месяцев назад

Quality stainless cold welds instantly (this is what you guys call galling). It is not the panacea many believe. Accept the fate that is aluminum. The one advantage is the exposed thread area will last longer, but expect the same fight when it comes time to remove the studs.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

If it's not one problem it's another. Cold welding for me is for bad welds with too little amperage, ha ha.

@Kris-82 6 месяцев назад

@@GarageTimeAutoResto I think ot's rather galvanic corrosion issue and going woth stainless steel bolts is way worse solution than zinc plated. Apart from that I didn't get the point what is best methodology to remove broken studs. Using the biggest drill as possible - sure if you are able to not go off center which for some cases can be really, really hard

@GarageTimeAutoResto 6 месяцев назад

What's ot's?