Beginner Set-Up TIps: Ok, first thing is you need a PhD in engineering because every adjustment influences every other parameter. I as a beginner have more of adjusting the differential of every axis. You can feel the adjustments pretty well
I wasn't sure about breaking into these customizations as a new player, but just roughly hitting these markers and understanding why not only broke me into real sharp cornering and drifting in this game, especially RWD, but understanding how the simulation all works and having fun with it. Thank you so much!!
I think you have the relationship between dampers/springs and ride height/springs backwards, and I think you have roll bars backwards as well. Kind of. Before I go into this, I must make it clear that I'm not a professional racer or engineer of any kind. Let's start with the spring rate and ride height. To better understand how these work, it's best to understand what the components are. There suspension consists of a strut, which is the vertical shaft upon which the spring and dampeners are attached, with the wheel attached to the bottom. The top of the strut isn't fixed directly to the car, but can slide in and out of the frame, slowing the car to move up and down. The strut represents the maximum amount of vertical movement of the car in relation to the wheels (or vice versa). Then we have the spring, which controls how much the car can move up and down on that strut. A firmer spring will reduce the amount of movement, while a softer spring will allow the car to move a greater distance up or down. This is where you have ride height and spring rate backwards: with a higher ride height, the car can move down farther before bottoming out on the strut. Therefore you can shoot for a softer spring. Keep in mind, raising the ride height also raises the car's center of gravity, so if you raise the ride height and also stiffen the springs, the car will stay high up and tend to lean a lot more to the outside of the turn. And so lowering the ride height lowers the center of gravity, but since the car is closer to bottoming out on the strut, you want to limit how far the car can go down, meaning you want a stiffer spring. The car is lower and will stay more planted in corners, but there trade-off is that the car has less room to move on the strut, meaning bumps are much rougher. On stages with lots of jumps, or rough, bumpy terrain, you want higher ride height and softer springs. This will allow the suspension to absorb more of these bumps and keep the car stable and wheels in contact with the ground (more on this with Dampers). On tarmac, or other smooth stages, you want lower ride height with stiffer spring, keeping the car's center of gravity lower to resist leaning, but hitting bumps and jumps will be much rougher and may cause the car to bounce, making wheels lose contact with the ground, making the car unstable. Before we get into Dampers, let's talk roll bars. A stronger anti-roll bar (henceforth referred to as "roll bar"will or simply "bar") will keep the body stiffer to resist torsional flexing of the car. This means, for example, if there car is turning right, the body of the car will want to "roll" to the left. In other words, the left side goes down, the right side goes up. In this example, if you have a strong roll bar, it will prevent the car's body from twisting, so there inside wheel will be more likely to lift up off the ground. A softer roll bar will allow the car to flex more which may allow the inside wheel to stay on the ground, potentially providing more traction. In most cases, I prefer a slightly softer roll bar in the front, allowing both wheels to keep contact, potentially maintaining traction. If you make it too strong and the inside wheel lifts off the ground, ALL of the traction duties fall on the outside wheel, meaning it's more likely to lose traction, resulting in understeer. When it comes to the rear roll bar, it depends on the drivetrain of your car and the type of track. A softer toll bar will again allow the body to flex, which may help keep both wheels on the ground, shooting for better acceleration in corners and resist oversteer, especially useful for RWD cars. But on AWD and FWD cars, I like a stiffer rear bar to make it easier to slide the back of the car around corners. This comment is already too long and it's making me feel kinda douchy. Please, if I have anything wrong, definitely point it out! I'll do another comment to cover Dampers. Edits because phone typos.
You're right about the spring rate and ride height, I did mess that up when recording. I also recorded this at 6:30 am with no script so it was all off the top of my head and I didn't catch it in editing haha, good catch though!
Most insightful comment, I thank you! I even managed to imagine the car's physic as you were explaining how their components worked. As for the maker of the video, Roadside TV, I thank you as well. Between you two I got to understand some more of how a car's mechanics work. PS: Tyler Durden don't be a dick, the dude is making a video out of the goodness of his heart. I'd imagine you never mess anything up or say anything wrong, right? Everybody makes mistakes or confuses stuff every now and then, nobodys perfect!
Yep 👍 It’s a great sim. The surface degradation modeling is particularly impressive and realistic. I’ve done some dirt/gravel in a rally driving course and the handling is pretty accurate. I also get to drive a fulvia, my favorite Lancia, I can’t find the O37 though.
Great video. I've been playing since Dirt Rally 1.0's launch and I still learned a couple new things particularly about the dampers. If I may add some notes: ride height/spring stiffness is an inverse relationship opposite to what you mentioned. Also, regarding the alignment settings, I think going through the trouble of experimenting with different toe setups can go a long way in helping you with car setups and getting a feel for the car, especially for beginners. Honestly I think its more important than camber, because depending on chassis layout you can make a lot of adjustments to fix a car's behaviour (e.g. understeer oversteer) . in RWD for example giving the rear more toe in can help you get better exit our of corners and make the car more stable in general. For a lot of AWD cars you can fix the slower turn in/understeer with some toe out on the front, or give it toe out on the rear to help it rotate mid corner. I know this video is aimed at beginners but honestly once you understand how to manipilate toe to "fix" a car's behaviour it can help you a lot. Again great video and keep up the good work.
Yeah I did get the height/spring thing backwards, I discussed it in an earlier comment thread. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and still learned some things though!
@@RoadsideTV08 So what you explained in the video about the height/spring is not right, its opposite/backwards? If so, this does not make it easier following your guide.
Great job at explaining the tuning section. I had already familiarized myself with the concepts when I played Horizon 4, then I took a long break. Really helps to have a refresher of the concepts. Great job explaining the mechanics and physics. Thanks a bunch
Honestly one of the best tutorials out there, i was struggling with the tuning but after that video it just clicked! i tryed to do a tuning by myself for a spain stage and first try i got a pretty stable car! it was way easier to drive than the base one, and then i had alot of fun tweaking different settings to see how the car would react, if it goes better or if it behaves worse, thanks for learning me the art of tuning the car! haha sorry for my bad english by the way not my native language You earned my subcription though!
Excellent video. I've been taking off about 40 secs a stage off my previous best times today since changing the settings. The cars are totally stable now. Thank you
The rear tow angle help when set to negative a little. It helps the ass end straighten when exiting a corner. I noticed way better handling with just slight adjustment
Thanks for all tips. Really good content bro. I manage to drive with default settings but this it's gonna improve a lot my driving experience. Again thanks
I think gearing is very important in rally cross. Depending on the location, the gearing must be adjusted to the map for either more acceleration or top speed depending on the map. This greatly affected my time and got my car to go faster than my opponents.
i'm a beginner and dirve the sim for 4 weeks, it helpt me to gain in the first drive 7 sec !!!!!! great video !!!!! hoply you go on. Sorry for my english i'm a old german man
I watched your whole video, bcz ecerything you said makes sense to me and to my driving style. Ill watch over and over until i get the best of these setups then im gonna concentrate on gear ratios cause they're also very important in my opinion.
The best guide out there i you have no idea how much you've help me with this video the game is so enjoyable now before my car once it reached 80 km it always spinned out of control now with your help i can finally end monthly challenges many thanks again 100% subscribe to your channel
I have been putting up some fast times with stock setups, and i feel my times are limited by my setups now. Top 600 globally fast for reference. I am an advanced driver with Noob setup knowledge. But i do tweak the few things you mentioned in this video and it helps greatly. Thank you for the guide.
Thanks for the video. I just got this game the other day. I've had a g29 for a while but never got fully into it. This game is amazing. But had some trouble with corners like you said. Gonna see if this helps. Also I have my wheel set to manual with clutch, I'm thinking of modding my shifter into a sequential shifter. Because having to shift like a regular car makes it all very hard :D
absolutely brilliant mate. Finally someone that actually HELPS. I've been playing dirt 2.0 for a few years with a controller. No steering wheel due to lack of finances. Lost my job and my best friend the very next day so dirt is my........comfort blanket, if u will lol. Anyway i consider myself still a beginner although 6.09 thro sweetlamb i thot was not bad considering i'm using a controller...and not even a ps4 one lmao just a generic one. Be good to see more vids for a little more advanced guys. I say im a beginner but the game has me at elite...or pro. Don't quote me on that. Anyway i'm fifermike bro, love ur content but yeah defo more vids about other dirt2 tips, advice etc. STAY SAFE. N.B. Please dont laugh at my sweet lamb time. lol
On the Gearing length setting I wish there would be written the top speed of that setting like it is in WRC 7. That helps a ton to understand what length the slider position actually means. And for the per gear settings you could write the top speed of each gear. That would be so helpful
The first thing I found, particularly on loose surfaces, with all-wheel-drive cars, rotation (getting the car to turn-in) is not the easiest, so I increase the rear anti-roll slightly, and decrease the front anti-roll slightly. If I'm still not getting the initial rotation on turn-in that I want, I might stiffen (increase) the rear spring rate slightly, and soften (decrease) the front spring rate slightly. Only small changes - they usually make enough difference. And yep, you had the ride height/spring rate thing backwards, but another commenter already caught that. Must be tough creating vids @ 6.30am! If I were to give you some feedback : for a beginner I think your "stream of consciousness" style in this vid might be confusing (I know, setups are complicated animals where one change here can affect several other aspects of the car's handling characteristics), so my suggestion would be right a script that just states what you want to say, so that you can eliminate the extraneous bits of information you didn't intend to complicate this video, and thus confuse your intended audience. I hope you take this in the spirit in which it is offered - as constructive feedback. You want to help people get better and that, I applaud. Thank you for helping the sim-racing community - it's my favourite place to be!
No worries! I don't mind others offering suggestions to make things better at all! I try to come up with key points in my head before hand and then go, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't lol.
Also, if you want a bit faster turn in, you are on point with your increased rear roll bar. Try coupling that with a bit more toe out up front. You will get a faster initial reaction from the front. The combination should lead to a quick turn in, with a little more rotation from the rear.
Just judging by my 5th grade physics knowledge, lol, softer slow bump means that because the car can tilt more in corners, more inertia can be sent to the dampers, and absorbed (stored), thus taking away more of the shock due to change of direction, so in theory it should allow you to shift more weight and slow down faster in or before corners, but that also means that the car can turn over more easily depending on inertia and speed. Negative camber angle helps alleviate softer slow bumps by providing a large base area for the center of mass, so tilting over is harder (thus alleviated, so these two settings can complement eachother if set correctly).
As a professional mechanic the most challenging thing to do is translating the info to dutch. I speak & write quite well in English just recently began racing on ps4. Only after I did a thorough setup of the car a drive I can compete. For a person who can't drive & doesn't know how to setup a car. It is a big step to be competitive. If you don't have at least a g29 logitec setup. I can't imagine anyone having fun playing this game with a classic ps4 controller
Step 1, Get the VW GTI. Step 2, Crank rear toe angle down to 1.80 Step 3, adjust camber until comfortable in the way the car handles on turns. Step 4, Practice, and work your way up to a similar but slightly more powerful car.
Gosh this completely changed my game. I was struggling so bad, sliding across every corner in gravel stages. Had no idea how much of a difference making these adjustments would make.
Set up makes such a difference. I stiffened the suspension by 1 on all things, and raised the ride height by 4mm all round. This completely changed the feel of the car, and made me much faster
I’ll say for gearing depending on where you are and what your in, your car might run out of gear in the wide open areas so in that case it wouldn’t hurt to up your final gear a little so that your not loosing speed to the rev limiter
You bring the light into my life again! Maybe I can finally "tame" Audi (GB of course :-)) or Lancia Stratos.........I know what is wrong I know what I want, but dont know how to set it up :-)
You should go to the freeroam sector en tune the hell out of your car. Set camber for example at max, see how your car reacts.. Thats how I learned how to setup my cars :)
Thx for this great explanation. As I only recently got into rally racing games and just watched some of your videos I have decided to buy a wheel. Can you give any advice on how to configure your wheel right for dirt rally 2.0? 900° or 1080° and so on...
I personally use 360 degrees, I tried 540 for a while and didn't like it so I switched back. I know plenty of people who use 540 or 900 (with soft lock on) though, it all comes down to personal preference.
the one thing missing from modern racing games is a “crew chief” default setups are disgusting and I unfortunately don’t have hundreds of hours to setup my car perfectly on each track… letting the game find the best setups for each player will be game changing.
I only come up with one setup per location and that's what I run every stage, in every weather condition. Some people will do specific wet or dry setups but I personally don't
The easiest cars to drive are very fast too (subaru wrx and mitsi evo). Drive to survive in a little old mini. It will teach you without crashing so often because it's not too powerful. Don't try go to fast, learn to brake. Go to settings and get driver aids like anti lock braking , stability etc. Don't worry too much about tuning just choose hard tires suited to the surface.
Hi!In Event Modus i find not "tune car" option!I cant set my car and car driving is catastrophe!And how can i set game dificulty?Can you help me please?
You can use soft compound tires for almost everything, on wet asphalt you'll want to use the wet tires definitely, otherwise you're gonna have a bad time
The way slow vs fast damping was explained to me for bikes, is that slow damping will react to what *you* make the suspension do, that is big weight transfers with braking, cornering force, dips and jumps, preload/seat bounces for bikes, and flicks for cars. The fast damping reacts to what the *environment* makes the suspension do, that is rocks, holes, and general roughness that you just hit and can't anticipate. Also, spring rate affects the rebound damping too yeah? IRL I don't have external compression adjustment on my fork & shock only rebound, but I know if you put more air in an air spring (make a stronger spring) you should add more rebound damping (I guess "firmer" damping as DR2 puts it?), otherwise the spring will shoot the wheel out to the end of its travel like a pogo stick and not actually absorb any energy, and vice versa, a softer spring needs less rebound damping otherwise the wheel will "pack" and get stuck at the bottom of its travel.
I'm really struggling ,I've had the game ages and really want to get into it but I'm just bouncing all over the place, can't stay in a straight line etc etc..I'm on a PS4 controller so any advice would be appreciated..I'll probably have to watch this video a few times
I'm driving WRX and noticed that there are different setups automatically selected for the road type. Gravel/Asphalt. I'm looking at the Gravel one now and the tuning seems very specific. Some things are turned way up, others way down. Should I still make these changes or stick with the game defaults? I figured "default" would be everything on 0/middle of sliders but it's actually changed quite a bit.
I just started playing this game so I appreciate the tips. P.s: Where have you gone? You've disappeared from RU-vid. Please come back for more helpful advice.
Yeah it's been a year and half since I've uploaded anything. To be honest I just got burned out on the game and couldn't come up with any more ideas for videos at the time and then just got busy with life. I do check my comments and reply where I can regularly though.
@@RoadsideTV08 Yeah I'm late to the sim racing party. Only just started on it. Good timing though as the sales are on here now, so I've began buying all the racing games dirt (rally 2.0) cheap.
@@RoadsideTV08 Would you recommend getting noise silencing headphones while playing? I see people wearing them on stream but I'm uncertain whether it's ear protection or if they use it as a microphone to speak to the audience.
They're just headphones to isolate the sound of the game from whatever else is going on, personally I use Sennheiser HD 280 Pros. Some might use a headset with a built in mic or a stand alone, it really depends.
differential is the most important for me. i run max lock, because i want it to act like an LSD. Which this game isn't very clear on. for example, it says max lock is 36%, so would running half of that be an LSD or running the full 36% make it close to an LSD? As in, 100% lock would simulate a welded differential, which is only really used for drifting. Anyways, running max locked usually allows for more stability and cute seconds off my times
I appreciate you doing this but there are alot of wrong informations. I always recommend the setup video of Team O'Neil. For a beginner it's alot to take in but i would just sit through it and write stuff down. Dr2. 0 doesn't have alot of setup options. Also you always want to setup different when it's wet. For example tire pressure, softer front rear arb and softer faster bump because they will help with grip.
I personally don't change anything for wet conditions but I know there are some that do. As far as asphalt goes you can lower the car quite a bit, stiffen suspension, dampers, rebounds, and anti roll bars.
Just started playing the game from yesterday (as part of free ps plus game) I'll try this out. I noticed I was moving away from the track on corners. Hope this works, thanks
Great explanation.. But one all important thing, before attempting to tune anything, make sure you can run consistently similar times on a given track , otherwise tuning is a waste of time.
Question for all: Those of you that have (or had) a cockpit with a bar between the legs, do you find it getting in the way of pressing pedals? I'm looking to get my first setup, and don't want to waste ANY money, if I can help it. If it matters, I'm a bit over 6'2'' (189cm). Thanks in advance !
i just run the cars stock because of how intimidating the tuning descriptions are and besides unless im driving a RWD or a FWD car im not touching anything or else I might spin out on the first corner
how to get the game to stream without black screen on stream (game works fine on local machien) why is the game black in stream tho (menu and pilot callouts show up as does the progress meter and mirror but the car and 3d things dont why is that am using Streamlabs and game capture with an rtx 3080ti
I've been mostly copying pro setups without understanding them and 90% of the time they run very stiff springs and dampers, medium ride height and what matters the most are differential settings, which change a lot depending on location...
@@RoadsideTV08 awesome! I started playing this awesome game for week and it is so cool. I don't have a steering wheel and just using my keyboard. I'm still driving FWD as it's much easier to handle. But it's hard to drive fast.. any tips?
@@shanks0108 They trick to FWD cars is trying to maintain speed in corners by being smooth with them since the wheels are "pulling" the car as apposed to "pushing" like a RWD car
My next video will actually be focusing on setting up the RWD platform to make it more controllable and reduce fishtailing, I'm going to try to have it up by this weekend so be on the lookout!
Ease up on the throttle in higher powered cars, especially RWDs as youd need to be a bit gentler in corners until you learn how to drift. FWD and AWD will pull the car through corners, RWD is pushing your car through the corner if that makes sense. Also this guy is way off with his setup not sure where he gets his info he had a few things right but just no lol top comment does a better job. GTRtechnical has some great tunes on his channel to try.
If you have problems in turns, remember that your grip and power is coming from your front wheels, so sliding into a turn is different. Try to get your speed right for the turn you're going into (based on co-driver calls) and remember that your front wheels are going to pull you through the turn, if you just try to coast through a turn you might end up sliding to the outside.
Katie Schaefer thank you think it’s just going to take more practice as I’m not use you proper physics in racing games. Tried messing with tuning and ended making it much more difficult to drive lol
@@k3v1n96iy First of all try turning the steering sensitivity up, (in the advanced controls option menu) this might help as it will cause the steering wheel to turn faster; BTW this isn't part of vehicle tuning. Now for tuning. Typically you want the front to be softer that the rear this will help keep the front tires in contact with the ground and increases traction, reducing understeer and torque understeer; also, stiffening the rear can also help your turn-in as it will cause the opposite effect of the front causing it to loose traction; this can help you get the car to slide through the corner if you throw it into the corner. Be careful when stiffening/softening the rear/front though, too much may cause the car to spin or even understeer worse than before. I think the most effective change is soften the front roll bar a decent amount, stiffen the front springs slightly to help counteract extra roll from the softer roll bar and front ride height should be around 5-8mm lower in the front than the rear. Front camber should be less than 0.75 but more than 0.25. Stiffen the rear roll bar (near half way seems to work well). Stiffen the rear springs a bit and play around with rear camber to find what let's the car slide but quickly catch itself from over-roatating (0.75-1.5 camber range should do this). If it slides too much after these changes then I would try softening the anti roll bar on the rear some first and then adjust camber to fine tune how the car slides.
