Love the content. Keep it up! You have helped me enjoy Dirt Rally 2.0. I played it when it first came out and got frustrated with not being able to control cars outside the fwd.
Hi there, i am from Brazil and your advices aré perfect! Thanks so much, i developed a Lot with your Help! you are direct, and save a lot of time, if your video has 20minutes because everything its important!!!! please dont stop to make videos!!! one little suggets..., make more videos with how to set up the cars from rainy days, snow etc!!! i love your material!!!! tears!!!
I found that on gravel dropping the ride height on the rear wheels to almost all the way down really helps with traction through corners. Leave the front ride height higher. It’s simple but makes a huge difference.
Great tips. You are a very good driver. This car certainly was more of a handful im DR1.0. I remember running it on the Sweden snow stages and just trying to get clean runs (not even fast ones) without plowing into the snow banks, it was absolutely brutal lol.
Regarding toe vs camber in this context..... I think of toe as controlling the car’s initial willingness to rotate, and camber as what controls the car’s rate of rotation. So if I want reduce the car’s tendency to start spinning, more toe-in. If I want to slow down how fast the car is able to rotate after it has started spinning I increase negative camber. I like a car that I can get to rotate easily, so I usually go with .20 toe-in, and then adjust rear camber to keep it controllable.
I actually put 20° toe in on the rear for just about every car I use, cause you can hit sharp corners fast and that toe in on the rear will literally push you out of the corner whereas you’d normally slide over the edge.
Thanks a lot! I don't have the money for a G29 or another steering wheel, so I have to use joypad (I still enjoy the experience so whatever). Thing is that with RWD is quite difficult to catch up the rear and I have to rely on the tune up! Instead, I don't have any problems with FWD and 4WD cars. Keep up the good work, thanks a lot!
These videos are great! I love this game but I struggle a ton even handling the AWD’s from group A, but these videos are helping me learn a lot! And if you could make a video on how to keep your car stable in all drivelines that what be AMAZING! Looking forward to your next video
I honestly haven't been playing much Dirt Rally lately and I haven't had any good ideas for videos, but I appreciate the compliment and I'm glad they helped you!
Wow, didn’t thought that this small tuning details makes such a difference! Could get nearly 7 seconds quicker with the Renault 5 Turbo, my absolute favorite car in the game(!!), on my same stage and a lot of tryouts with vanilla and your tuned set up. I am really bad at doing good set ups :=(... Would like to see a more detailed set up vid especially how high, stiff the RWD cars should be set up at Poland and New Zealand for excample. Thanks a lot for this Great Vid, hope to see more of this stuff from DR 2.0, especially for the RWD cars. An Abo for you!!
Great content. Would love a video explaining your thought process and technique through very fast (especially narrow sections) with bumps. (All drive types )
Basically just try not to overthink things, make small adjustments, and hope you made the right corrections lmao But all jokes aside that's not a bad idea, I might just do that!
One thing that I have found is very helpful is a sense of how big your car is so that you can know how wide of a line you can take and in an RWD or AWD car, how much you can slide and if in a fast narrow section don't make massive corrections. Just know that I am new to this game but I have done a lot of rally racing in project cars 2. Hope this helps : D
Your videos are the most helpful that I have watched for dirt rally 2 so thanks and keep up the good work and also can you make a video on how to save a car as it will probably be helpful to lots of people. Thanks :D
Thank you I really appreciate that! As far as that is concerned it's pretty hard to break down how to save a car, but I'll put some thought into it and see if I can come up with a good way to put it in video form.
Toe Angle on the front you can set to negative (RWD). This helpful for playing with controller bacause yout get countersteer effekt as soon as the weight acts on the outside wheel. But set not much for high speed stages USA/Finnland/Poland, and especially not so much for tarmac. Another thing: you can set the Differential Drinving Lock more open. Braking lock and Preload more locked/ higher. Soften the rear antiroll bar.
Great videos man. Im waiting for my g29 to get delivered and not having any experience in sim racing, ive been watching your videos in preparation. Lots of good info and youre hitting a lot of points that I had questions about. Cheers!
My previous video was all about working the balance of the car to throw it around corners, check that one out it should hopefully answer your questions
We appreciate this video. Thank you :) I've always preferred RWD and you've given me some confirmation bias-- I mean insight on how to get better! Vamos amigo
I recently picked up D2.0 and Im enjoying the Lancia 037 Evo 2. I just posted a global top 50 time with a stock setup on Mount Kaye Pass full and I have no idea how to tune the cars and the issue like the video shows is that its a super fine line between a controlled slide and the rear just stepping out like mad. 2:23.
I have a question, I have no room for a dedicated handbrake in my setup but I found a way to bind both paddle shifters to my handbrake, do you think there’s any limitations there
I just opened this video. my plan is to make 3 runs with default setup and with setup based on your recommendation and post results here. and thank you for you videos!
So i just did my runs, i've selected Greece, Pomona Ekrixi, Dry (5+km). Modified setup as suggested in the video - rear toe: 0.6, rear slow rebound +2. 1 run, modified setup, 4.01.501, place 201 2 run, default setup, 3.52.608, place 131 3 run, modified setup, 3.54.359 4 run, default setup, 3.48.136, place 87 5 run, modified setup, 3.47.692, place 86 6 run, default setup, 3.45.378, place 65 7 run, partially modified setup, 3.40.774, place 36 I'm not very good at this, on this particular stage i'm 20+ seconds slower than the leader, i can only imagine where you can find those 20 seconds in these 5km so all this is my personal opinion and feeling. Having rear rebound set on +2 keeps wheels in the air after bump longer. which to my taste makes car understeer on hairpins and under heavy breaking for me, so last 7th run i've made using rear toe set to 0.6 but with default dumping setup. So 2 biggest differences for me during my test runs were 1. stage familiarization, this affect my time more than car setup at the moment 2. increased toe angle making rear dumping +2 makes reduces my time and makes car more difficult to drive for me personally But this rear toe angle trick is amazing - thank you!
I've only recently started uploading videos like this, I've been streaming on Twitch for a few years but didn't know what kind of content I wanted to make for this platform until a few months ago. But thank you, I'm glad you like the videos!
Good video. But you have omitted the fact that some of these cars do not have an option for Rear Toe adjustments. Same with the Ford Escort MkII which you mentioned. So please show us how to counter oversteer for cars with no Toe in adjustment. Thank you.
Actual reason is Codemasters fucked up the physics engine for rear wheel drive cars so every time theres a weight shift the car takes it as an extreme.
Lift off oversteer in a rear wheel drive rally car with softish suspension on bumpy loose terrain is a very real phenomenon. A major issue that even he is doing is being extremely snappy on the throttle and brake. When he said "that was my fault that was just a bad line" he did turn in a little early but the reason it over steered was due to the braking and then sudden power application. Car dipped forward all that weight onto the front tires nothing on the rear so it's going to turn in sharp as hell then he reapplied the power. The car leans backwards quickly as all the weight is back there and the front tires go light meaning at the speed and angle he was at he couldn't correct. Smooth application and having the weight where it needs to be (outside front corner typically) before every turn is critical but on mid engine rear wheel drive the effects are much more noticeable. Let me end this by saying his tips for tuning are good and I'm sure the guy is a fantastic driver. As a matter of fact I've seen him in other videos and he is absolutely fantastic. He is trying to explain a technical subject, drive at high speed, and articulate his thoughts in an understandable concise manner while filming with no script. That makes things a ton more difficult. I'm not bashing the guy by any means I couldn't do that and the dampening is a problem in this car (especially on this stage) but there are typically a lot of driving errors with these cars. The OP stated it is an over exaggerated weight shift. It isn't. The spring rate or dampening may be off a bit and a lot of it is driver error because it is genuinely hard to tell weight transfer via a 2d screen. Having been given the opportunity to drive an MR2 being setup to run in the ARA and having prior racing experience in dirt track, single track enduro, and hare scrambles this game is pretty damn accurate on surfaces and weight transfer. Especially gravel it is fantastic at. If you really want to know about suspension tuning specifically dampening tuning there are a lot of good videos on RU-vid and good articles for doing it with motorcross and enduro bikes. Now a motorcycle is different obviously but the concept of what the shock and spring are doing is the same and it's a good way to understand fast and slow bump dampening and rebound dampening, spring rates, and why your spring needs to have some sag / preload for going over dips to maintain contact with the ground. The videos break it down really simple because a lot more people are working with mx suspension that is very sophisticated than rally suspension so the information is much more available. Take care hope it helps. Also subscribe to this dude because he makes fantastic dirt rally content.
Ok so I go into tuning and it only allows me to toe in on my front tires under the alignment setting only allows me to mess with front tires at all and I can’t find a group b Rwd car at all lol what am I doing wrong
Is there any chance you could go over your wheel and ffb settings for the g29? I just got my first wheel and am finding going from controller to sim wheel really hard. Keep up the great work by the way great content!
Hey, great content. You're helping me a lot. I see that a lot of people use a Logitech wheel. I'm currently struggling to find a good setup for the force feedback, could anyone help me by showing their setup? C:
Nice! Thank you much for the tips bro, Huge difference!! I have 2 questions, whats kind of wheel and pedal set up do you use? (I'm looking to finally get 1 for my ps4, and one that will work for the ps5 when it comes out) And what kind of little Marshall amp is that!? I noticed the soundproofing squares behind you and figured you might be some kind of musician, then I saw that Marshall! Do you play and record guitar?
I'm glad they worked for you! I have a Logitech G27 wheel, but I don't know that it will work for a Playstation, the newer versions should work with one though. It's just a 15 watt Marshall MG15DFX I got for free years ago, but it still cranks pretty loud. Since this video I've moved to a new house where I was able to get my drum set also in my room and I'm actually in the process of setting up a little home recording studio.
@@RoadsideTV08 Very cool! Thanks for the reply, Your own studio... That's awesome bro! 🎸🎸👍 I own a small guitar shop here in Mass. I've been playing for over 30 yrs. but that was just fun, taking luthier classes and building and repairing is where I can make a little xtra cash, and help younger musicians with there instruments (stringed) Here's the link to my FB page. facebook.com/Ipswich-River-Guitars-106563420706171 If you know anybody in New England send em my way!! Lol, Thanks again bro.... Mike.
That's super cool, I started playing maybe 15 years ago but kinda stopped playing for the last maybe 6 years so I'm in the process of relearning a lot of things, which is fun but also annoying lol. Unfortunately I don't know anybody in that area, I'm from Wisconsin haha
Yes, but how do you actually DRIVE a RWD car? Its like there is absolutely no relation between wheel and pedal movement and where the car is going, I've gone from coming 1st-3rd place at historic events in FWD to 28th place in RWD.
I wonder if a lot of people - casuals who had an interest in the game upon seeing it, had fun in the first two rallies, then afterwards concluded that the game is way too hard for them and will not buy any more of their games because the game went straight from an event of slow, easy cars to one of very difficult cars at the start. Terrible way to start a motorsports game.
My tactic for driving RWD cars like the Escort on gravel/snow is to go full Ari Vatanen, sideways through every turn. A little sideways to every turn at about half throttle, then open the taps at the apex using the steering to point the car in the right way. Loosen the roll-bar to 0 at the rear and put lots of diff lock, gets you a really fast exit even with the tires spinning, though you must go sideways, otherwise you'll understeer into the trees. I honestly don't even care about traction on gravel, just floor it like a madman On tarmac though I try to keep it tight with a little bit of powerslide, and especially on Monte I'd feather the throttle to not spin the car
My trouble is that right 6 might mean a smooth easy right 6, or it might mean there’s an unseen mini chicane, then a right six that is 3 feet long into a hairpin
Bruh ! How come this channel has this less subscribers... u deserve way more .. or just keep on posting videos like these .. U will gain subscribers in no time.
