Love these vids. Davin makes it feel like you are helping out your best mate in the workshop - he is the perfect presenter for this format. I like watching him work so much I am disappointed when the video speeds up😂
10 years ago I bought a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport 2 door 4X4 with the 4.0L and a manual 5 speed. I think I paid $2500, it was very straight and the interior was immaculate. It was the same color as this 1993. My Cherokee developed a whiny 5th gear synchro and I ended up selling it after 6 months... yes, I totally regret it. It was a perfect 2nd vehicle, not very large in size, so it was easy to park. Has lots of luggage space, a roomy back seat and it was 4 wheel drive. The MPGs weren't bad either, it would average 18-21 in overall driving. :-(
Wow what a throwback. I live just a couple minutes from the Toledo assembly complex and used to watch these roll off the line through the giant plate glass windows of the OLD Willy's plant.
Ah, That one was a young buck with 150,000 . Mine and many others have 250 or more and run good ! Great job on the tear down Davin . Going to be a perfect rig when your done ! ENJOYED...
I had no idea that they were still producing engines in the 90's without cross-flow cylinder heads. I though that went away in the 70's. Love the videos, keep up the great work!
The Renault F9Q turbo-diesel with a non-crossflow cylinder head was still being used until 2015 in the Suzuki Grand Vitara. A bizzare mix of old and new tech, counterflow head and 2 valves per cylinder combined with modern variable geometry turbo, intercooler and common rail direct injection. The F9Q was designed for transverse installation, but Suzuki put it in longitudinally because the Grand Vitara was at the time a proper 4WD with a transfer case. This along with the engine design makes for some very long intake ducts, and an obnoxiously difficult to reach thermostat...
Many OHV inlines were built this way because it was cheaper and easier to do than crossflow. Also, even many SOHC inlines were built this way because it was cheaper than crossflow.
I had a 2000 Wrangler with the 4L six. I think it was the last year they used the cast iron block. Loved that Jeep; the engine was strong and smooth. Between my son and I we put over 7 years (mostly in Maine) of hard driving on and off the road with that Jeep and never had a problem.
I love that your mention improvising your own tools when needed. I've always done this where needed,but there's always that 1 guy with a fully loaded toolbox and 100k in debt that gives a hard time about not having the "right tool". To each there own but money or lack there of doesn't need to hinder a job well done!
Can't always get the right tool, dealer had it but wouldn't sell it. I bought a large socket, ground it down and made the proper tool for 1/7 the price
You guys make the best videos on RU-vid. The content as well as the production are truly top shelf. If these videos were completely uncut I would still watch every minute. Keep up the great work!
So your right about a project, I am currently pulling my aw4 transmission out of my 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport and swapping in a new one. Already overhauled a 1992 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 l Engine for this build, had around 361k on the original engine, flattened my cam/lifters and bent 4 of the rods. Surprisingly I didn't have the head gasket blow.
I loved these engines, I had four cherokees with different versions of them from 1988-1995 or so. I put 350,000 miles on one of them without any major work.
I’ve rebuilt 2 Jeep 4.0 engines, they are about as simple of an engine as you will ever find. The only difficulty is getting the lifter preload proper, as they don’t have adjustable rocker arms. With milling the head it may require different length pushrods.
That 90 degree oil filter adapter is the biggest oil leak problem on the Cherokees. You can take the adapter off and use a smaller Toyota filter to go directly to the block.
I did that hex thing when I needed to change the oil on my aircooled vw transalxe. Welded a bolt to a long bar so I could force it loose without being under the car.
Davin always calling me out about not hitting the shop time punch clock, going to have a garage again within a week so I promise to pay you back in OT hours! Keep up the good work!
the timing chains on those were known to stretch out prematurely. I even had one so bad once that it was slapping against the cover and I thought it was a main knocking. it's a really solid platform other than a couple of little things like that
I saw the rubber bumper on the timing chain cover and figured it was a known issue from the factory. They must make a set of timing gears to replace the chain. Love to see an upgrade.
Timing chain problems can often be traced to oil and filters not being changed often enough. When I rebuilt my used Toyota 18R engine with broken timing chain, and later a 20R, I discovered the cause. Tiny oil holes, no larger than a small needle, that supply oil to the chain and tensioners, were stopped up with sludge. The chain, starved of oil, broke and destroyed the timing cover. The 20R, with a wider and stronger single chain, stretched but didn’t break but had the same tiny oil supply holes. No matter what brands of oil and filters you use, change them often, no later than 5 to 7K miles in moderate climates and more often in colder areas with heavy intermittent use. Serviced regularly with quality products, engines will last much longer with very few oiling problems.
@@keepkalm That would be an interesting upgrade. I think you would need three gears, otherwise the cam and distributor would turn in the wrong direction. Studebaker V8's have gears and their valve trains spin in the opposite direction of engines with chains.
Not sure about the later Jeeps but when I restored a 1984 AMC Jeep CJ7, I swapped the extremely tired 4.2L inline six and replaced it with a 1997 Jeep (now owned by Chrysler ) 4.0L fuel injected inline six out of a Grand Cherokee. Functionally it looked identical to what you're wrenching on. Perhaps one of the easiest swaps ever as everything from the old 4.2L bolted up to the 4.0L block. The wiring harness for the 4.0L was trashed by whoever pulled the engine so I ordered a replacement along with a harmonic balance which doubled as a crank position sensor. The change between the old and the new was dramatic... better power, instant start, better fuel economy...
One sweet thing to do with a junk 4.2 is take the crank and rods, then fit them to a 4.0 block and a set of oversized 4.0 pistons. With +.030 pistons, you get almost 4.7L.
I suppose ordering a reman head is good for this episode. The 4.0 needs no special machine work, so rebuilding it is less interesting. Tips for DIYERs: 1. Read the casting number of the old and new head, and make sure they match. 2. If the Jeep head says 331 but doesn't say TUPY, don't use it. Those are prone to cracks. Many people can either sell you a brand new casting that is reinforced, or you can buy a 331 TUPY from someone who specializes in 4.0 Jeeps. Some Jeep enthusiasts spend all day looking for 331 TUPY heads in junkyards, buying them as cores, selling them to machinists, and machinists offering them to you at a good price. 6:48 ETCG defends timing belts because they get replaced before the timing can get out of whack. Yeah, well I'd rather have an engine get the timing a little off than have an expensive grenade attached to my engine. Interesting stuff, it doesn't look like this rebuild will need anything unique. Given how common the 4.0L is and how many love it, I'm sure rockauto rebuild parts are a very short wait. I have heard that the replacement pistons from the later 4.0L fit the early 4.0L just fine. This is an advantage, the late 4.0L pistons have a performance coated skirt and a better 1.5mm X 1.5mm X 4mm ring pack.
Agreed. A timing belt would be fine if it was front and center and all you had to do was a "belt change" but instead the whole front of the motor has to come apart so it takes all day to make room.
Those are slightly thinner ring packs. On a motor that only makes 200 hp the only gain is marginal ring sealing maybe. I'd be more worried about piston slap. The OEM pistons on these aren't that great to begin with. But all of that is probably just conjecture at this level.
@@CanadaBud23 That may be true, that a little improved ring sealing and a little less friction might be all that contributes to horsepower. However, those kinds of rings tend to last longer than the 5/64 5/64 3/16 ring set. I think about how the LS often outlasts an SBC and uses a 1.5 x 1.5 x 3.0 ring set, and a Ford modular 2V might outlast a 302 or 351, and also uses a 1.5 x 1.5 x 3.0 ring set. It might also because these 1.5 mm top rings are typically steel instead of iron, and sometimes have a performance coating better than chrome or moly. Plus they tend to cause less bore wear. Sure, the OEM 1.5 x 1.5 x 4.0 performance pistons might not have been as great as they could have. However, some companies might make ones that are better than OEM. Some say Speed Pro and Silvolite are great.
Another excellent video on a turd of an engine! This series has saved me a fortune, revealing the secrets and design failures on these legendary engines, so I don't have to waste my money on buying these heaps of junk, especially today's blown prices. Thank you Hagerty and Davin!
Hilarious that I had to do the exact same thing with a modular 4v remote filter adapter through bolt/channel when I was test fitting and over torqued at bit.
Great tear down..I just did one last year for my son's tj..it was fun..I think I got one of those old xj engines in the back of my garage if you want it.
Usually that oil filter housing bolt is so tight on there that you end up breaking tools over it. It's a very strong bolt though lol. The bearings are typical of these 4.0L's This ones seems to be a little bit grimy and lack of regular oil changes obviously. You parts and everything look typical though, so that's a good sign. I don't know what head you'll be getting but you should have a 7119 or 7120 head on that motor. If you are getting a rebuilt check and make sure you don't get a 0331 or if you end up getting one make sure it's '99 or EARLY 2000. Later ones have a thinner galley casting and are prone to cracking. Since yours is a '93 they SHOULD be giving you a 7120 head which is a good head (and sought after). Check the old head to make sure you have a 7120, looks to be in fine shape, people buy those in pretty much any condition or than damaged seats, they are worth money still. Cam wear is typical and chain wear is typical. Very rare the chain breaks but a lot of them make noise like that, it's just it rubbing against the guide. Make sure you get a brand new guide the old ones or even NOS ones can be brittle and chunks break off into the oil pan. Another thing to check for is (or I should say the engine shop) the machining squareness, if you are having all the surfaces redone on these engines it would be done already but yeah the manufacturer didn't do a very great job at machining these inline or squarely. The shop will correct everything if it's all resurfaced again. On the contrary of how 'anvil like' they are they weren't machined very good at the factory lol. You can also bump the compression a bit if you like, they are not that prone to detonation these days with today's fuels so you can get some HP and efficiency out of it from the rebuild. Yeah these things are great. Lol that tray of tools you had ready is probably more than needed to take these XJs apart down to a shell, they are so super simple.
I guess worldwide the F engine is more prevalent but Jeep produced over 5 million of just the 4.0L displacement of the AMC 6. An engine produced for 54 years. Toyota's F family was only produced for 43 years.
Love the vid! Really want to do a stroker kit on my xj. But I don't really have the confidence for it (or the money) never pulled an engine before but done a lot of fun stuff already, just 23yo and this is my second offroad project, it's coming along nicely!
Well I have most sized hex sockets, but yes I had to make a tool recently. A timing chain tool to align the cams and crank on a 2021 MG MG3 which is actually built by SAIC motors. The only tools were ex China at 25 day wait.
man you've got a badass shop, but a pressure washer is a must have. before i tear anything down i degrease and blast the daylights out of it with 3,300 psi.
I just finished swapping my Fanatec steering wheels from the big plastic nut style quick release to metal ones that look and work similar to a real world quick release steering wheel. I swap my wheels back and forth and none at all with a protective cap. It is about the only way I can afford to race cars, karts and drive semis. Sim racing/driving has come lightyears.
Motor mounts are a weak point on the XJ 4.0. Specifically the bolts where they enter the engine have a tendency to snap. Brown Dog makes upgraded mounts (both engine and frame side) for the XJ. Highly recommended!
Love these old 4.0 JK engines. I had a friend back in highschool (circa 2000) who had one, and he managed to find a company at the time who made a cam for it. Darn thing ran real strong! I was certainly surprised. Also, where did you get that rolling metal workbench? I've been looking for something just like that!
It might not be a bad idea for Hargety to make a similar video. They could be rebuilding a limited slip while swapping to a different ring and pinion. They would also have to be showing the processes of setting clearances, gear contact pattern, and the other related stuff.
