Disc Golf Cell Dye - Part 2 

Super cool! Brandon Brewer told me he’s done that before too and had good results. I need to give it a try, I suppose. 🤙

Thank you much! I’ve got a couple more methods that I need to get out. In the middle of moving so hopefully I can knock some out when we get situated. 🤙

Thank you much! They can be a little tricky. 😏

You’re very welcome! Thank you for watching. 🤙

Really good question that would take a pretty lengthy explanation, lol. You need to watch one or two videos to get a good handle on it. RU-vid search “color harmonies” and that should set you straight. 🤙

I have not. The big thing I need to try is using some cling wrap. You put down your bed then lay a piece of cling wrap on top. Then either drag it across the bed or lift it up from the center point of the bed. I’ve seen pretty good results doing that. 🤙

He said Dynamic Discs sells them w the back stamp on them.

Dynamic does sell the blank discs or you can score white discs from any of the other manufacturers. The problem nowadays is all the manufacturers haven’t fully recovered from shutting down their production during Covid. So as soon as most of them do a run of discs, they got bought up quickly. I’ve been having the most luck from people selling lots on various Facebook groups such as “Disc golf buy, sell and trade”. 🤙

@@haytraindiscgolf4697 love your video man! I like the floetrol method a ton! Do you ever mix the dye with water and then add it to the floetrol?

You can! Although some of the Worm Dip colors work better than others. Or rather, you have to put a lot more worm dip in the ratio for some colors. 🤙

Good question! The biggest reason is based on the methods practiced by the artists that were at the Dye Academy at 2021 DDO. Most used water. Brandon Brewer was adamant about using water because I think he had a fire accident when torching an acetone solvent based mix. Other than that, I go through dyeing phases every few weeks and the acetone base in the big squirt bottles seems to coagulate more when left untouched. 🤙

@@haytraindiscgolf4697 I’ve noticed a precipitate when using acetone as solvent with prochem. I’m still experimenting. The biggest problem is too little dye transfer - light colors that lack vibrancy. I’m pretty sure it is ambient temp. Thank you for your response and videos!

One more question. Have you tried adding silicone to the white floetrol base?

@@revel8or I haven’t…🤔 May need to try that at some point. I have experimented with more silicone in the squeeze bottles or in the mixing cups and too much silicone can be a bad thing. I’ve had instances where it doesn’t mix or it pools on top of the bed creating blobs of silicone and it ruins a dye bed. So! I’d be careful adding more silicone into the equation. 🤙

It could be a few things. Plastic type - make sure that you’re using a premium plastic like Star from Innova, ESP from Discraft, Neutron from MVP, Gold Line from Latitude 64, Fuzion from Dynamic Discs etc….if you use a base line plastic or any of the manufacturers’ “see-through” plastic, you almost always get dull colors…or at least not as bright as if you were to use one of those previously mentioned plastics. Dye - I’ve had some decent dyes with Rit, but nearly always get brighter/more vibrant colors using ProChem or iDye Poly. I’m almost exclusively using ProChem but change it up once in a blue moon. Also make sure you have the right type of Dye. If you’re using Rit, make sure it’s for “Synthetics”. If you have iDye powder, make sure it is “iDye Poly”. If you are using ProChem, make sure it’s the “PROsperse Disperse Dye”. Other types either don’t work or give poor results. Dye ratio - if you’re mixing your dye with lotion or floetrol, make sure you’re using enough dye. I point out the ratios for dye to acetone in the “swirls video” and also dye to Floetrol in these “cell videos”. Soak time - I’m a firm believer that nearly all dying techniques need a 24 hour soak time - at least 48 hrs if you’re dying a see through plastic like Champion or Z plastic.

@@haytraindiscgolf4697 i think my problem is probably ratio. i am using pro chem dye that their customer service team indicated for disc golf use. I have dyed pretty much every innova plastic at this point from DX to Gstar. And have done 12, 24, 36 hour soaks on each. My best results so far is on a 12 hour moonshine from latitude. But as you mentioned above I think ratios are the issues am going to mix some floetrol with your ratios tonight and do a test run.

@@markrussell6858 sounds good. Lemme know how it turned out. I thought of another possible issue. What kind of method are you using? Dye mixed with acetone and dripping on a glue bed? Dye with lotion? Dye mixed with glue? The reason I ask is because I’ve heard a lot of people having issues depending on what type of medium they use. For example, I have a lot of trouble getting bright colors if I use white glue in any way. I tend to rarely ever use it as a bed or to mix with my dye. For clear glue, I’ve heard of several people having issues with certain brands. I generally use the same one as Bryan Eckert which is the glue you can buy from Michael’s…if there is one near you. Just another factor to consider.

Man…I’ve tried sooooo many different mixtures. It got overwhelming. The mixes I use and point out in these videos are straight from Michael O’Hearn and Brandon Brewer. I’ve got links to their Instagram in the video descriptions. They’ve been doing it for a while and it gives me good results too. The only mix I’m not using is Tiffany Shaw’s. She adds other stuff like alcohol, color intensifier, lotion and a few others. She gets awesome results with her dyes too so definitely worth a look. Her video is in this video (Part 2) description.

Nah, I’m just a sucker for the hobby. lol I try to find good deals on Facebook but I’m generally paying the same as everyone else. I imagine some of the big name dyers get a deal by buying lots of 50-100 discs, but I don’t have that kind of cash to throw around. 🤙