Disc Golf Glue Dye 

lol glad to hear. Pulling out the disc to see what it looks like can be an emotional moment. 😬🤩🤔😢🤬😎

No problem! I may do a stand-alone video showing the results of the two methods as well.

Absolutely!! Hope you get some wicked results! 🤙

Thank you much!! More to come shortly.

Of course! I’ll be playing around with the amount of dye for doing a cell technique. 🤙

Hey now! Celebrity appearance. 😎. Thanks, my dude.

You’re very welcome! Thank you for the watch. 🤙

Thank you much! I’ll be doing my spin on the cell dye technique very soon. Gotta play a tourney this weekend and then I’ll put it together.

Thank you much! 🤙

Thank you much! 🤙

Thanks Kyle! 🤘

Thank you much! I need to get working on another video for everyone. 🤙

You’re very welcome! Thanks for watching. 🤙

Thank you! The best part is seeing it for the first time when washing it off. Love it. 🤙

@@haytraindiscgolf4697 for sure! I've tried a few none have come out like that though.

Yeah you can make it work. I’ve seen some pictures of results using off brand glues from Amazon so proceed with caution. 🤙

Thank you much!! Doing well. I’ve been trying to perfect a couple cell dye techniques on top of going to a bunch of tournaments and going on missions - I’m in the Air Force. Next video will be up by the end of May and will be cells 2-3 ways. 🤙

@@haytraindiscgolf4697 Awesome! I've been watching a bunch on dye videos and yours is easily the most accesible and understandable imo :D Keep it up man, hope you're staying safe and well!

I can do that! It’s been a while since I’ve done dyes with that technique and I really dig how they come out. 🤙

lol yeah I need to put it together. Running tourneys and going fishing with the kiddos these last few weekends. I’ll put it up soon though! 🤙

The cell videos are up now if you haven’t seen them yet. 🤙

lol that’s ok. I’m not looking to make money or anything. I rarely even sell discs, I just donate to local clubs or children/veteran associations. Just a hobby. 🤙

Much respect! Spin dyes can be quite the challenge. I haven’t really seen too much in terms of colors taking longer. The big thing I have seen is certain colors requiring much more dye and mixing times with acetone, in order to get good colors on the disc - namely Caribbean blue and lemon zest. 🤙

The stamp itself won’t dye! So instead of using acetone to get it off, just leave it on and dip as normal, and it’ll stay. The dye doesn’t effect the stamp

Really? I’ve always had luck with right at a 1/4 tsp or a heaping 1/4 tsp. The only time that isn’t true is with one or two newer colors like Caribbean Blue or Lemon Zest. I’ve found that those two need double or triple the amount of dye to get a good product. 🤙

I’ve not tried mixing Rit with acetone for a glue bed....should work tho. As far as advice, make sure you’re using Gold plastic. Opto, Zero or their other plastics could be the reason you’re getting faint colors. I never get good results with baseline plastics (Zero, DX, Pro D, Jawbreaker, etc) or somewhat see-through plastic (Champion, Z, Opto, etc...). They are always faint results.

For the weight, no. I’ve weighed before and after and haven’t seen any weight change. It’s an approved method as far as PDGA rules as long as you use dye. If you use an acrylic paint or something, that will alter the weight and it’s not legal anymore for sanctioned play. For the texture, it won’t alter texture if you do it right. There is a possibility if you wipe the stamp with acetone and scrub too much. Or if you put waaaay too much acetone based dye and then quickly put your disc in. The acetone can “burn” the disc and make it feel more like construction paper instead of a glass smoothness.

I think if you can get real good at intricate stencils, that where the most prestige is...especially among dyers. Check out @discdyeingdotcom on IG (Keith Leimpa). Dude’s stencil work is insane. That’s just my opinion though. Glue bed swirls can be pretty sick if you expand and play with your color palette. @pipedreamer79 for reference. I got into disc dyeing for the cell bed techniques. @TiffanyShaw54573 @B13_disc_design and @luckydyesdg have some really sweet examples. I also really dig the work from @daddymacdyes, although his technique is on a glue bed and isn’t cells. If you got good at any of those styles, you’d have lots of customers/respect. As far as the best color, glue beds are my preference. Some of the colors out there are better than others whether you use ProChem, iDye Poly or any others. Some colors just don’t work too well in glue for some reason. Lotion beds/lotion dyes look pretty sweet too as far as color saturation.

Haha! I appreciate the hesitation. 🤙

I’ve done several where I left the stamp on the disc and they came out fine. You just want to let the dye bed sit for 10-15 minutes before dropping a disc in. If you put the disc in real quick then the acetone can eat away the stamp while it’s dying.

These are bead organizers and it doesn’t say the size. They’re about 2” tall x 2” diameter. I’d say....around 1/8th cup. You could prolly go up to 1/2 cup or a little more. After you mix it and shake it up, there should be sediment on the bottom after it settles. That’s a good indicator that your acetone is saturated.

Awesome! Thanks for the reply! Discs look amazing! Great content! :)

Yeah. Followed what you said. It came out sick! Thanks for the great tutorial. Keep em coming!

@@evanrussell4275 Awesome! Glad to hear it. 🤙

Awww, bummer. lol Been there, done that. Running out of supplies is the worst. Good luck!! 🤙

Fusion definitely does take dye. I’ve had to leave it in a little longer though. Anything that is slightly opaque or clear gets at least 48 hrs in my beds. So Fusion, Champion, Z, 400/500 plastics. Be sure to wash it off well with a scrubber too. I recently pulled out a 400 M3 and saw streaks on it which was probably leftover grease from the factory. Make sure you’re putting enough dye in your acetone bottles too. You should have a decent layer of residue powder at the bottom of the jar/bottle. Don’t suck that up in your dropper, but that layer lets you know you have enough dye in your mix.

Yeah the dyes I use have to be bought online, unfortunately. Best dyes IMO though. prochemicalanddye.net/disc-golf-disc-dyes.html As far as the RIT, yes that will happen and it is no bueno. I’ve not experimented, but one guy commented on another video that you can mix the RIT with acetone and it will float on top of the glue. No idea on the ratio though. I’ve also heard of people mixing the RIT with glue or lotion and squirting that on top of the glue. Could turn out alright but I doubt it’ll look like the results in the video. 🤙

You sure can! Most people mix with Acetone but some also mix with Denatured Alcohol. I’ve never done glue bed dyes with an alcohol mix but I do use an alcohol mix with spin dyes. It takes longer for the color to stick to the plastic but it’s way easier to get good fading when spin dying.

@@haytraindiscgolf4697 Thank you. I have some ProChem colors on the way and looking forward to trying to improve on my dyes. Appreciate your videos and reply.

That’s a negative my dude, assuming you’re using the liquid variety. I’ve tried and it drops straight down in the glue to the bottom of the cell bed. You’ll nearly always get better colors from ProChem (the Active Dispersion type) or iDye Poly. But! If you’re dead set on using Rit, you have a few options: 1: You could try to get the powdered Rit and mix it with acetone. I’ve never tried it or heard of anyone trying that but it may work. 2: I’ve heard/read about people pouring a glue bed, separately mixing their Rit with glue, and then dripping the dyed glue onto the glue bed. Supposed it stays on top of the glue bed and let’s you swirl it. Never tried it though. 3: Mix your liquid/powder Rit in a squirt bottle with lotion or something else like Floetrol. Then squirt it out on a glue bed or lotion bed. You can do some cool designs and then swirl it. It won’t look like the disc in the video but can still look cool. 4: Make a lotion bed and drip the Rit directly on the lotion then swirl some if you want. You can get cool galaxy looking effect doing that. 🤙

I’ve never deliberately tried to put my hand in a dye bed, but I’ve got plenty of dye on my skin before. Wearing some sort of latex glove is advisable. 🤙

It’s not dying at all? Super weird. ESP takes dye like a champ. First question: what kind of dye are you using? If it’s iDye, make sure the package says “iDye Poly”. If you’re using ProChem, make sure you have the “Active Dispersion” dye or the ones marketed specifically as “disc golf dyes”. Both companies sell different types of dyes and the other types don’t work well or don’t work at all.

In short, I don’t dye them. If you’re dead set on it, I’d leave in bare minimum of 24 hrs....48 hrs if possible. I’ve done several tests by leaving them in 24-48 hours, with or without a heat pad, dye mixed with with straight acetone vs mixed with lotion etc....and it never comes out with bright/saturated colors when compared to Star/ESP/500g etc. The only way I’d recommend Z/Champion style plastic is if you’re doing a stencil and doing a hot dip with black. Those turn out fine.

These are bead organizers and it doesn’t say the size. They’re about 2” tall x 2” diameter. I’d say....around 1/8th cup. You could prolly go up to 1/2 cup or a little more. After you mix it and shake it up, there should be sediment on the bottom after it settles. That’s a good indicator that your acetone is saturated. 🤙

So you definitely want to stick to the premium plastics - Innova Star, Discraft ESP, Dynamic Discs Fuzion, Latitude 64 Gold Line, MVP Neutron...that type of plastic from any of the companies. The baseline/cheap plastics do take plastic but it usually comes out faded or fades very quickly if it does take the dye. The more clear type plastics can also take dye but those need to sit for at least 2-3 days for the dye to take and even then, it won’t be as vibrant as the Star, ESP, etc types.

Rit maaaay work if you got the powder type and mixed it with acetone. I’ve never tried it tho. If you get the liquid Rit, that will not work in glue. I think the best way to use Rit is to use the pre-mixed Rit and squirt it directly on a bed of lotion or conditioner/shampoo and swirl it. The swirls won’t come out as defined/crisp as the glue method but it does allow the dye to absorb in the plastic.

@@haytraindiscgolf4697 bought some pro cem and the first disc turned out pretty cool!

@@kimballlloyd1127 Awesome!! Glad to hear! If you’ve done the basic ‘drip and swirl’ technique, I’d suggest trying dripping in all your colors, swirl them, and then use a straw to blow all the swirls around. Gives it a different type of look that looks pretty sweet. 🤙

Nope not at all. Just makes it look cool. 😎

Awesomenessssss! Going to be attempting this later this week. Thanks for the above quality video instructional!

I imagine there is, but I’ve never tested it. The standard soak time that most all dyers use is somewhere between 12-24 hours. The only time I go over that is if I’m dying a see-through plastic like Champion, Z, Opto…C line…something like that. I leave those for 48 hours.

Mmmm....you may get some of the dye to stick but I highly doubt it will come out meeting expectations. I’ve never heard of anyone trying it. Prolly best to stick to the common dyes like ProChem, iDye Poly, Worm Dip or Spike it!.

I use a rounded 1/4 tsp of dye mixed with 1/8-1/4 cup acetone. After you mix it up, there should still be some powder residue at the bottom. If there isn’t, you need to add some more dye.

@@haytraindiscgolf4697 thank you so much for getting back to me! Those are some helpful tips!

That’s a negative. I’ve tried several things but haven’t been able to recover a bad dye. If you pull a disc out within a couple minutes you can “erase” most of the dye with acetone....if you’re quick enough. But using this glue/swirl method, that dye isn’t coming off after 8+ hours.

Ive got a good stack of failed attempts that are donation collection. You could dye it black or a color that covers up a bad dye but that’s about it.

Using iDye Poly in acetone. Every other color but the red transfers great, got some good looking discs, but no red. There is hints of orange in them, like it tries, but doesn't quite transfer. Same everything else, Clear Elmers. Weird

Hmmm…that is weird. It’s been a long while since I’ve messed with iDye. Pretty exclusive to Prochem and Worm Dip now. My go to for a true red is ProChem Fire Red. 🤙

Leaving the stamp on is no problem. Be sure to clean the disc with soap/water and a magic eraser if you can. Do your swirls and let the bed sit for 10-15 minutes and your good. That lets the alcohol/acetone evaporate and it won’t mess with the stamp. Stencils is a whole separate topic. Have you done any stencils before?

@@haytraindiscgolf4697 i am currently doing a shaving cream bed with a stencil on a beginners disc (sensei from discmania). my first ever dye-job to it's mostly a tester :)

@@fufashi Gotchya. If it’s S Line plastic, you should be set. For some reason, most Sensei’s I’ve seen recently are the base line plastic…P Line? If that’s what you’ve got, it should absorb the dye but the colors won’t be very bright. Same thing if you were using DX plastic from Innova, X from Disctraft, etc… So yeah, tons of ways to cut out the stencil on your laminated paper and then get it on the disc. The hard part is making sure that it’s centered to not offset the stencil you’re leaving on. That can take some practice. If you’re sprinkling your powder on the shaving cream, spray it with a little water and you’re good to go. If you spray it with alcohol/acetone or if you’re using a mixed dye that has alcohol/acetone in it, just let it sit for 10-15 min before putting your disc in.

Oh wow! Three things. What kind of plastic were you using? How much powder dye did you put in your acetone? And how did you clean the disc before putting it in the bed?

@@haytraindiscgolf4697 i used star plastic, cleaned it with a magic eraser and and half a teaspoon in 2 oz jars

@@seantillotson51 Hmmm...Super weird. I’ve had some older Star plastic not take dye well but it did take some color at least. Maybe you’re over swirling? Have you tried any other discs since your post?

@@haytraindiscgolf4697 yes I tried re mixing my dyes with more dye powder. And we even then them sit for 30 hours and no due stuck. So I’m thinking it might be a problem with the dye

@@seantillotson51 that’s super wild. You should definitely be getting results. Do you know which type of ProChem dye you got? The sell a few types. On their website, you need to get the Active Dispersion (I think they call it “Prosperse Disperse Dyes” on their site) , or the dye that’s marketed as Disc Golf Dye (it’s the same as the other type but has some other colors).

Could be several different things. I’ve replied to a couple people who have had issues too. The big thing I’ve noticed is people not having the right dye. It needs to be ProChem “Active Dispersion” dye. Prochem sells different types but it needs to be the Active Dispersion, or the kind that is marketed for “disc golf dyes”. Other questions: what kind of plastic is it? Baseline plastic (like DX from Innova or X from Discraft) gives very soft or muted colors. The see-through plastic (Champion from Innova or Z from Discraft) also does the same. What ratio of dye to acetone are you using? If you don’t use enough dye powder, you’ll get muted colors. What is the temperature where your dye bed is sitting? Colder than normal room temperature can make it take much longer. Room temperature (>65F) or letting your bed sit out in the sun on a warm day are common best practices. Which colors are you using? A couple Prochem colors (like Caribbean Blue or Lemon Zest) require much more dye powder in the acetone and have to sit for several days for it to dissolve/absorb enough in the acetone. This is before you drop it in the glue bed. 🤙

I used Rit Dye More liquid dye .

Also it was opto plastic from latitude 64

@@warrenburns4998 Ok, the Opto plastic is probably the bulk of your problem. If Latitude 64 is your brand, you’ll get much better results using the Gold line plastic. The only time I get good saturation with plastics like Opto, are if I use a heat lamp….but even then it is nowhere near as bright of colors as you’ll get with Gold line plastic. But! You’ll also get much brighter colors if you switched from using RIT to iDye Poly or Prochem. 🤙

Yeah it kinda bugs me too. I don’t know any other way to dispose of it though. Like...how does one dispose of glue? lol. It says non-toxic. 🤷‍♂️

I would definitely rather just put it in a trash bag and toss out before down the drain.

I let it get hard and pull it out and straight in the trash.

lol too long for ya?

No great job those discs look very good.. Can't believe it's that easy