that is the intent... the devil is in the details and for those that are new to the trade that it is ESSENTIAL to include the smallest things so the job is done right the first time.
You may have a nylon washer on your drain plug. I can assure you that the aluminum and copper crush washers have almost always leaked on me if I had no choice but to reuse them. They're inexpensive and should be replaced to spare yourself any potential for a leak.
Perfect! I do many Honda vids (or did up until my kids learned to walk). No XR650l for me. Too scared to ride a bike but I own many other Honda branded things like mowers, trimmers, snowblowers, jackets and even coffee mugs :)
depends on your driving conditions but it would easily run 10,000kms on conventional oil and 15, 000-20,000 on full synthetic without issues. If you do a lot of stop and go driving or drive in extreme operating conditions then change it more often. Oil is relatively inexpensive so changing it more often certainly won't do your car any harm. Only real way to tell how far you can stretch engine oil is to do a used oil analysis to see how the wear on the engine is faring.
about to do an oil change on my 2007 CRV, but most dealerships i called (here in YYC) said they don't stock the A01 series filters any more, only A02... what other filter brands would you recommend? thanks.
+nickolastiguan hmm interesting. Technically speaking the A-02 aren't ridiculously bad. Their build quality just lacks compared to the A-01. Did you try T&T honda? I swear I bought some A-01s from them just last month.... If you don't want the Fronda (Fram/Honda) filters then I suggest buying either Napa gold, Mobil 1, K&N or Wix (auto value) filters.
piercedasian "Fronda" lol yes i have tried TnT Honda. have you tried MotoMaster or QuakerState filters? my friend works for a local Toyota parts dept, he said he can order any parts for any makes, maybe he can hook me up. thanks and keep up the good work.
The car in question isn't at the timing belt replacement interval yet :( In fact I have to service it in the next little while but I'm sure the owner won't need a t-belt replacement just yet.
@@aintiswift I actually did that in Nov of '18 (I don't know what it has my comment as 1 year ago.... more like 2) I also changed fuel lines and gas tank. motoluvr.blogspot.com/2020/01/my-rusty-beater-update-1.html
you just take the old one to the place where you buy parts. I go the easy route and just buy them from the honda dealership. My time is worth more than saving a few $$ and Honda always has them in stock.
I think it is just habit. I catch myself doing that too when I am ready to replace the dipstick and I shake my head wondering WHY I bother doing that....
The old filter was not a Honda filter but I installed a genuine Honda one. Nothing wrong with aftermarket filters as there are many filters BETTER than the Honda ones (think Wix, Mobil 1, K&N, AC Delco) but I prefer Honda ones b/c I work closely with my Honda dealership and it is just easier to buy Honda ones b/c the quality is decent and the prices are reasonable.
Thank you for answering. I have a 177k hond accord 1998. I bought it at 100k in good conditions, had to do gasket change already one time I think. Last week they told me it lost oil. I was freaking out because I thought/think it was burning oil (people act like its normal for a “old” car to do it). People at the MGM Oil & Lube place and also a shop repair place.
Then I was reflecting the place I bring to do the oil change... I saw videos on in here and people say the oil in these place is not really a good oil (however I do castrol oil? Mgm say its better for old car ((ones that past already 100k miles... is that true?). But still idk if they put a good filter (i dont think so...) i went today again cause my engine cover tripod was broken and i needed to tell them it wasnt like that. Manager came and told it broke the plastic which is fine. He also check engine and told me it just need a gasket change. Its like $30 bucks he said. So i guess that is what i am going to do at shop repair place in ocean city, nj. Maybe they can check if it burns oil?
All this concerning is because I bought one time a lemon car which burned oil and I almost make it run out of oil. After that i am always concern about that. So idk, i will make them check my car... would that be that same as doing a tune up?
Ty for your help. I am sorry for explaining all this, i need somebody who knows about car like this one accord 1998. The mgm place told i can bring my own products so i think i am gonna start buying the honda filters and a good oil product and they would do it for $32. Hopefully they r always replacing the metal circular thing too (i will ask). Never had oil from under though (or i never knew?...).
6:52 :( This is the only part I clicked on the video for. What does it just twist in and out with your hands? You said something about a strap-type wrench IDK.
yes sorry, I didn't have anyone to help me hold a camera while I did this and I didn't have a lift in the garage at the time. Yes, I use a strap style filter (like a boa constrictor strap wrench) and just wrapped it around the filter to undo it. Cheap tool that works fabulous.
absolutely! I only use synthetic oils in my cars. It protects better, maintains its lubricity properties in a wider operating range and most importantly it flows MUCH better in extremely cold weather.
Yes, fully aware of that. No camera person to assist filming where the filter is on the back of the block. That being said it is very obvious to spot and not difficult to get to on this engine.
That was my bad. It is in fact a F23. Been working on so many cars that I totally narrated the wrong motor. Apologies. They do however DO use the same change procedure and even the same oil filter.
It calls for 5w20 but this car is starting to burn oil (its not my car) so going with a slightly higher viscosity slows the oil burn rate down. The manual also states you can sub in 5w30 when 5w20 isn't available so no problems there.
depending on where you are using 5w30 is a-okay. You can typically sub in a 1 step thicker oil for a motor that requires thinner oil but NOT the other way around. In this specific accord's case the car's mileage is a bit high and does consume a bit of engine oil and jumping up to a slightly thicker viscosity oil seems to help reduce/slow the oil consumption. What you can't do is put 20 weight oil into a motor that calls for 30 weight oil (too thin). Hope that clarifies things.
yes yes yes, my bad for sure on this one. I look back at this video and shook my head and said "dude, how can you miss the fact it was a 2.3!". Fundementally however the procedure is the same across the board so thankfully the content is still relevant.
yes I am fully aware of the 2.2 vs 2.3 mixup. Depending on the market and even the year within this generation of accord that the oil may be 5w30 or 5w20. In this car's case the spec calls for 20 weight oil but one could easily use 30 weight oil.
Why don't these people ever give torque specs. All drain plugs have torque specs (i.e. 29 ft lbs. etc...) I always want that, and not one of these DIY guys ever has access to shopkey or whatever.
The reason why torque specs aren't given is because for me to look up every value takes time. I don't have a pricey Shopkey subscription - that's why you'd take it to a pro to do if you wanted those specs or look them up on the web. I do have factory Honda service manuals but considering how many fasteners and videos I have that it would literally be a full time job looking those values up.
yes, that was my bad in my narration. I would go back and change it but I have long punted the original footage when I produced this video. My sincerest apologies on this mixup.
First of all let the people know what year Honda. The drain pan is NOT on the drivers side!!!! Had my 14 yrold son out in the heat looking for hours according to your video... sheeesh.Sheepshead..
you can you either or actually. This accord in fact is consuming a tiny bit of oil so switching to 5w30 seems to help curb the oil consumption on the motor. It is always okay to up the viscosity by 1 level than specified. ie 5w20 -> 5w30 is okay but NEVER the other way around.
